Ok so the problem is between 1400-2000 with about 20% throttle what happens is the motor hesitates, then bucks (cuts in and out completely) until it gets above 2000 where it smooths out. If i floor it from that range its fine, The motor runs completely fine other wise

I haven't driven the car in a year but last time it was driven it had this issue but only slightly, when cruising it would maybe once a month just buck once or twice when driving, but now the problems worse as it does it all the time.

So far ive replaced Coil, Igniter, Cap, Rotor, Leads, Plugs, Airflow sensor, ECU, Injectors, Fuel reg
Have checked-
Dissy signal (using an oscilloscope from ecu) but only the crank angle not TDC signal, TPS (whether plugged in or not still problem), Coolant sensor (whether plugged in or not still problem), and Injector signal(oscilloscope from ecu), Wiring from igniter to ecu and dissy to ecu
Ive taken the fuel pump out and checked the sock on the end which was fine, have ran the pump with out the motor running and all seems to be sounding fine

The only thing im down too is wiring somewhere else, fuel filter (less then 5k old) and compression but being that the whole motors ~25k old id like to think its fine plus it doesn’t seem to have an other symptoms of this. I do have a compression tester so ill check that soon either way.

Any other ideas that ive missed?

is there any water/moitsure on the MAF? i had similar problems when my MAF got wet after epic flooding

not that i know of, thats been replaced any way

Checked for error codes?

Possibilities:
(1) Massive air leak somewhere.
(2) TPS has non linear output, a "dead spot" where it goes open circuit. Just unplugging it is NOT the way to check it. Same for coolant sensor. If the coolant sensor has gone open circuit, it would be the same as unplugging a working one anyway. If it is busted, unplugging it makes no difference. Use a multimeter and check cold and hot resistance. Same for TPS, see manual.

Checked for error codes?

Possibilities:
(1) Massive air leak somewhere.
(2) TPS has non linear output, a "dead spot" where it goes open circuit. Just unplugging it is NOT the way to check it. Same for coolant sensor. If the coolant sensor has gone open circuit, it would be the same as unplugging a working one anyway. If it is busted, unplugging it makes no difference. Use a multimeter and check cold and hot resistance. Same for TPS, see manual.
no error codes
no air leaks either
how is it not linear? more throttle less resistance same goes for the temp
i know its not the way to 'check' it but it eliminates it from being a problem

also checked compression and was perfect on all

the only thing ive come across is when the air flow sensors unpluged it works fine, tested both sensors i have and they are with in spec so wtf?!

(2) TPS has non linear output

it's linear on a first gen. if you plot voltage (0-5v) over % throttle, it wont have a curve.

as for unplugging it as a diagnostic, i dont see a problem. while checking the voltage output is ideal (which i'm pretty sure mad lante's done and tried a second thottle body/tps), unplugging it forces the ecu to rely on it's other sensors to manage the engine, and also give the ecu a chance to see if it notices the TPS is gone (throws up an error). i'd say it's not entirely a bad way of trying to work out if the TPS signal is actually having an effect on how the ecu is running the engine.