Hi everyone
I have a 205 mitsu 380

Just a quick question re: which is the best brake rotor of choice.
I have MAJOR rotor warpage, and squeeling problems. Straight after my rotor skim and 4 new brake pads, they gradually started to warp again after 2 months..

So I'm having a bit of a rage at my car, and I want to change all four rotors and pads to something that wont warp FFS!

Any ideas? Part numbers?
Rear rotors too.. they're all scored and gone blue. This is from normal everyday driving.. no boy racing.

The tool of a mechanic used ferodo brake pads..

Does repco have any DBA replacements for our cars?
I just want this fixed so my car doesn't feel like a piece of crap to drive.

Thanks

Hi everyone
I have a 205 mitsu 380

Just a quick question re: which is the best brake rotor of choice.
I have MAJOR rotor warpage, and squeeling problems. Straight after my rotor skim and 4 new brake pads, they gradually started to warp again after 2 months..

So I'm having a bit of a rage at my car, and I want to change all four rotors and pads to something that wont warp FFS!

Any ideas? Part numbers?
Rear rotors too.. they're all scored and gone blue. This is from normal everyday driving.. no boy racing.

The tool of a mechanic used ferodo brake pads..

Does repco have any DBA replacements for our cars?
I just want this fixed so my car doesn't feel like a piece of crap to drive.

Thanks

What's wrong with them? For everyday useage ferodo Zero's are a fantastic pad.
Repco and bursons will stock replacements.

I would use a blank faced DBA rotor. Not slotted or anything else, just blank.
For your brake pads, I would use QFM's which can be had at any local Brakes Plus outlet.

What pads are you using? I found the oem pads were shit, changing to bendex was 100% better. Still got the stock rotors without any warpage.

What pads are you using? I found the oem pads were shit, changing to bendex was 100% better. Still got the stock rotors without any warpage.

I am using General CT's and they are the worst pad's I've ever used

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I am using General CT's and they are the worst pad's I've ever used

Did I say to use GCTs?

Did I say to use GCTs?

No...Just saying out of the bendix range, I'm using CT's and I'll be not only be changing them soon but they will be going straight in the bin. Ultimates are a whole lot better but spew dust on your wheels like no tomorrow.

Yea, i am using HDs up front and GCT rears. Seems to be a pretty good combination. I havnt noticed any brake fade yet, and I have been driving my car fairly hard this week.

I reckon your best bet is a package deal of RDA rotors (plain, not slotted) & QFM HPX pads from Mal (Madmagna), see these two threads:

RDA Rotors (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81653)

QFM Brake Pads (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81652)

From all reports they are a top combo. I have the QFM HPX front pads (on stock rotors) and they are brilliant, way better then Bendix GCTs or Ultimates.

KJ.

I reckon your best bet is a package deal of RDA rotors (plain, not slotted) & QFM HPX pads from Mal (Madmagna), see these two threads:

RDA Rotors (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81653)

QFM Brake Pads (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81652)

From all reports they are a top combo. I have the QFM HPX front pads (on stock rotors) and they are brilliant, way better then Bendix GCTs or Ultimates.

KJ.

Well, HPX's are aiming at the ultimate buyer, so of course they will shit on GCT's.
If you wanted a good pad that's not performance orientated, the basic QFM's are perfect.

Thanks for all your replies guys,

I might look into the aussie made stuff.. I dont really thrash my 380 much, its a daily and i like to keep it running smooth (hence the frustration of a shaking steering wheel when braking). I have my rx7 for hoon duties.

I might give it a bit here and there but i definately wont be track racing it or anything, so the RDA and QFM package seems like a sensible idea. How long does it take to get to perth if I order from madmagna?

I might do a photo right up on how to change brake rotors and pads, even though i havnt done it myself before, but seems straight forward. This forums is lacking in a bit of mechanical DIY guides.

Anyways, thanks again guys

;1323683']Well, HPX's are aiming at the ultimate buyer, so of course they will shit on GCT's.
If you wanted a good pad that's not performance orientated, the basic QFM's are perfect.

Tuffy,

Far as I know the HPX is the 'basic' QFM pad for a 380.

Unless there is a more basic one which Mal doesn't carry.

The track pad is the A1RM, which I understand is a fair bit OTT for street use.

"]

I am using General CT's and they are the worst pad's I've ever used

Y'see there must be something else playing into this because the GCT's i had were great for a normal pad on stock rotors. Cant say much for ferodo zero though, they were total dogshit on my 2nd gen

Tuffy,

Far as I know the HPX is the 'basic' QFM pad for a 380.

Unless there is a more basic one which Mal doesn't carry.

The track pad is the A1RM, which I understand is a fair bit OTT for street use.

A1RM has a lower friction rate from cold which is why it isnt suited to road duties. At temps though it can handle 700degrees as opposed to 550 for the HPX and also has a better friction rate at high temps. Its probably more dusty and noisy too.

HPX is a great road pad, good feel from cold and can take a thrashing. A spirited drive down macquarie pass showed they can cope admirably under repeated breaking

*braking

The slotted rotors look nice, why are they technically no good?

The slotted rotors look nice, why are they technically no good?

They are good, I've got them.

Tuffy,

Far as I know the HPX is the 'basic' QFM pad for a 380.

Unless there is a more basic one which Mal doesn't carry.

The track pad is the A1RM, which I understand is a fair bit OTT for street use.

Ahhhhh righteo - did not know that...I do now....

Y'see there must be something else playing into this because the GCT's i had were great for a normal pad on stock rotors. Cant say much for ferodo zero though, they were total dogshit on my 2nd gen

I have brand new rotors on both cars, with brand new pads. when i had the zero's on the diamante the brakes felt just sensational, fantastic when cold, great when hot (very good actually) but the dust - OMFG the dust - that shit me....so they went....the GCT's......well.....I'm lucky if the car comes to a stop when it's cold....nothing flash when hot, and the pedal feel is terrible. I can make this fair assumption as the brakes have been bled with new fluid, and the rotors are new, so its not some "i went from 200K old brakes to these new ones and the new ones are so much better" kind of thing - of course we can only give our opinion and others can only go on recommendations!

The slotted rotors look nice, why are they technically no good?
No, they are good, but for the money they are worth, they are not worth the extra you fork out. I'm never buying them again that's all I know - what a waste of money


They are good, I've got them.

Again - I think they are no downgrade to blank disc's - just for the money you need to outlay, and sure to some people its nothing, but to me right now every dollar saved is a dollar earnt - I just don't think they have lived up to the hype. I can THRASH My diamante with blank disc's and GCT's (although was heaps better with Zero's) and there is no sign of fade at all. I just dont see how slotted rotors will improve this to the tune of $50+ more per rotor.

When you put new discs on make sure the hub surface is really clean and FFS use a torque wrench to do the wheel nuts up!

They are good, I've got them.


Which make and model did you use ?

i put a new set of DBA rotors on mine a couple weeks back...

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a99/starlet-turbo/rotor.jpg

Straight forward job really , the only issue i had was to get the rotor off the hub , i wasn't expecting it to be so tight..

but with this , it made it easy.
on the rotor , centre on the driveshaft , a couple turns and it popped off.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a99/starlet-turbo/tool.jpg


Brad.

which make and model did you use ?

DBA42206SL/SR & DBA42207SL/SR

Hawk ceramic custom pads although I would now probably just go the QFM but weren't available when I did mine.

No dust but with the Hawks!!

You just have to use the appropriate size bolts, in those threaded holes in the hub to free it if tight!

mine were clogged full of crap and the threads looked average , easy for me to pull them off...
same deal in the end.

Sure! just thought i'd mention it for newbies.

Or, use a hammer (if your throwing the rotors out) or a mallet (if machining them) and bash them from behind, worked for years doing that.

*another tip aswell*

DBA42206SL/SR & DBA42207SL/SR

Hawk ceramic custom pads although I would now probably just go the QFM but weren't available when I did mine.

No dust but with the Hawks!!


The two part numbers are front and rear...yeah?

Sure are.

Kon it sounds like your rotors may have been machined once too often and possibly not checked with a micrometer before hand. This would easily overheat them quickly and warp them in no time flat. In regard to slotted, the whole point of them is degassing the face of the rotor for more instantaneous braking. There is a definite benefit to having them but you will need to run different pads to suit *read even more $$*. I concur with the general consensus, stick with the solids and QFM's. I have the GCT's on and am pretty unimpressed with them too. They don't seem to pull up that well at all. I will be opting for the QFM pads myself and would have had them on now but they didn't have them this time last year.

QFM did not offer pads when I went the ultimates, QFM will definately be the pads I will be getting next round