hey guys

just a question regarding the interval between oil changes. We bought our th magna about a year ago and had it serviced (just a general service cost $250 odd). We only drive the car about 5000 kms max per year (sits in the garage most of the time) and my dad reckons since we drive so little we only need to service it once a year. Whereas i think it would be better to atleast get the oil (engine and gearbox) changed every 6 months even if its only driven 50 or so kms a week max. checked the oil and it was gold/yellowish but blackish at the bottom so yeah am a bit stressed as i like to keep the car in the best condition possible.

Also ppl say best way to extend transmission life is put car in neutral when idle at lights and stuff... any other other tips?

would really appreciate your views thanks

P.S sorry did a search but do u change the oil if the car is just sitting there for most of the year?

I think once per year is reasonable if the car only travels 5000klms in that time.

Transmission fluid should be changed every 40 000klms perhaps more frequently if you do so few miles. I'd say one every two or three years in your case.

Engine oil should be changed every 6 months regardless of mileage. Unless you are running uber-synthetic oil which has a slightly longer life maybe 9 months.

I had this same conversation with a guy who is an engine builder. He is of the opinion that with modern motors and modern higher grade oils the once a year thing is not so bad.

I think it's a topic that others that know about this stuff will be arguing over for years.

My two cents are you should consider the fact that the engine doesn't have time to heat up to operating temp a problem with the oil as you don't get a chance to burn off the condesation within the engine.

I normally change my oil every 5,000kms or 6 months what ever comes quicker (always kays for me :D ). Leaving the car in neutral at the lights is a waste of time in IMHO, the amount of power acting on the transmission while the car is idling is far from damaging or at the very least enough to heat the transmission up. If anything the constant shifting of the leaver would creat more damage if at all. :D

yeah i definitely thought we needed to do it every 6 months but dad was being a bit stingy since mitsubishi charge so much for service ah well..will make sure its serviced every 6 months from the next service (hopefully shouldnt be too much damage in the meantime)

thanks

Why don't you just change the oil and filter yourself?

If your not comfortable with changing the oil and filter yourself then the best thing to do would be to use a local mechanic (who would only charge about $80 for an oil change) and use mitsubishi for your service intervals that are stated in the book.

I agree, I wouldn't let my oil go past 6 months. Trust me when the life of your motor is at stake don't skimp.

I wouldn't change your transmission oil every 6 months through, there is no need. I would probobly just do this every 12 - 18 months.

You know when to change your oil when your hydraulic lifters sound like like a machine gun he he he he pretty pricey.

Why don't you just change the oil and filter yourself?

It's hardly rocket science. I'm not a mechanic by any means but l've been doing my own oil and filter changes for years. When l was doing 20,000k per year it used to be every 5,000k's.
Now l only do about 9,000k per year and do an oil and filter change ever 3 months. It's easy.

Yeah filter and oil isnt that hard, but for some people its probably best to get someone else to do it, I've got it down to under 10 minutes. The hardest part is getting the old filter off sometimes.

I normally change oil/filter at 5000km's sometimes more of less, but if I take it to the track I make sure I change it more often.

yeah i wanted to change it myself or buy the oil and take it to my local mechanic but my dad is very antagonistic and said that i am too obsessed about the car and just wait the extra 6 months for the service. So i decided i will take over the maintenance for it after the next major service (in 3 months) which my dad will pay for.

just talked to mistubishi they said $180 for the oil change..so might take it down to the local mechanic. Which oil and filter in your opinion are the best in terms of quality for the car. Was it castrol that mitusbishi recommends? Really appreciate your help guys thanks

180 for an oil and filter change??? Hell thats mitsubishi for you! My mechanic does it for $75 or $45 if i supply the oil.

I used to use Mobil 1 but i've been told its too thin for our motors.

hahaha yeah our local mechanic did a "full lube service" for $80..and u wonder why mistubishi has a rep for bad service, even the guys on the ford forum reckon mistubishi has bad service and its shame considering that we have the best cars in value for money . Yeah i have definitely decided to buy the oil and filter and take it to the local dude. Tried doing a search for oil and filter but me being comp illetirate couldnt find anything ..shall keep trying

I use magnatec for oil, and for the oil & filter just go to autobarn, supercheap etc...just check the refrence booklet at the store for the part number, I think the Ryco part number for 6 cyl 3rd gens is Z456, but check anyway, and will say on the packaging :D

Isn't Magnatech too thin? From memory (correct me if im wrong) the V6 motors should use 20/40w grade oil. Whats wrong with running oil thats thinner?

Totally agree. And change the filter every time too. Small cost considering the benefit of it. Dude - u can learn to change your oil your self, nothing to it. At least then u really know what's in your engine - not what they say there is...


Engine oil should be changed every 6 months regardless of mileage. Unless you are running uber-synthetic oil which has a slightly longer life maybe 9 months.

Isn't Magnatech too thin? From memory (correct me if im wrong) the V6 motors should use 20/40w grade oil. Whats wrong with running oil thats thinner?

Well I have been using it since Mitsubishi used it once on my car during a regular service (about 2 years ago) and havn't had any problems yet???, dunno maybe I should switch to thicker just incase, anyone else have any thoughts on this? :D

To simplify this matter.
Moving engine parts (ie crankshaft bearings) are “rubbing” metal against metal. Hence the engines wear. Oil is to keep those parts separate. All these things are microscopic, mind u. We are talking about thousands of millimeters etc. Not really visible to eye.
Obviously over the time those “gaps” enlarge due to wear.
With new engine, using too thick oil (high viscosity, like 40/70 or whatever), it will not “fit” in to those gaps and consequently no lubrication occurs. Sort of.
In an older, worn out engine, those “gaps” are bigger, hence using thin oil will not “fill up” those gaps, hence the parts will not be 100 % lubricated under high revs.
Something like Mobil 1 is very thin and should only be used in very good, tight engines.
I reckon we can easily use oils which have viscosity of 10/40 (for example Magnatec). 10 being the reading when cold and 40 when hot. As u know, warm oil seems thinner. Some racing oils are 0/40, so u can see they are pretty thin in comparison.
Apart from lubricating the crankshaft and conrod bearings, oil operates hydraulic valves in Magnas. So, it the donk is all tired and worn out, the valve tappets would start to make noise, cos the oil is too thin to produce sufficient pressure. Then u would need bit thicker oil.
Hope this makes sense - I made it very un-scientific and as basic as possible.
Feel free to add on the properties of oils when hot/cold and aged plus the different engine part materials which react with oils in different manners depending on use and environment and other engine variables, like fuel mixtures, worn piston oil rings etc etc. Not to forget worn oil pumps of course.



Well I have been using it since Mitsubishi used it once on my car during a regular service (about 2 years ago) and havn't had any problems yet???, dunno maybe I should switch to thicker just incase, anyone else have any thoughts on this? :D

Very well put killer. So running magnatech with a rating of 10/40 would be fine on an engine thats done say 70,000kms?

That's what I use and the 3.0 donk has some 160 big ones on it and no oil loss at all. Tappets sing like choir of angels. Gee - I didn't know I'm so poetic.
Dude - only one way to find out: try. Gonna get K&N oilfilter too....?
I'll get one after u buy one.... hehehehe


Very well put killer. So running magnatech with a rating of 10/40 would be fine on an engine thats done say 70,000kms?

That's what I use and the 3.0 donk has some 160 big ones on it and no oil loss at all. Tappets sing like choir of angels. Gee - I didn't know I'm so poetic.
Dude - only one way to find out: try. Gonna get K&N oilfilter too....?
I'll get one after u buy one.... hehehehe

Yep my mums magna has done about 170 thousand plus :shock: and runs perfacttly on Magnatec, both my TFs 106K and 134K runn fine on Magnatec, but my Manaul does make a bit of a muffled tapping noise all the time when idleing. (yes I have tried thicker grade oil, but to no avail :cry: )

I used to drive a 4.1 Cortina - yee, shamshame - and only after I swapped to Penrite 50/70 (?) the tappets decided to shut up. It had some 220 g on it, which is not much for low revving donk (max 4000) like that, but. Dunno if one could use that thick stuff in a Magna which revs much more.


...of a muffled tapping noise all the time when idleing. (yes I have tried thicker grade oil, but to no avail :cry: )

Im gonna be chaning my oil tommorow, just noticed K-Mart has magnatech on special so i'll swap it with a new filter and see how we go. Should be fine. Mobile 1 was 65 bucks a bottle, holly hell thats expensive stuff lol

Mobile 1 was 65 bucks a bottle, holly hell thats expensive stuff lol

nothing but the best for my puss bucket.. and at 2.5L sump capacity i can get two services from it
:bowrofl:

nothing but the best for my puss bucket.. and at 2.5L sump capacity i can get two services from it
:bowrofl:


2.5L? You talking about your lawn mower or charade? lol Im just kidding champ :D

:D i get it alot im pretty used to it

hey guys

mailed my dealer regarding the oil to use (as i wanted to use the oil from the last service). "USE GENUINE MITSUBISHI ENGINE OIL FOR SERVICING.
DARREN RYDE MOTOR GROUP. The only variance or different oil you should use is Castrol Magnatec as both are SAE 15w/30. Yes you can purchase Mitsubishi oil by the 4 lt oil pack at our spare parts department". Decided to buy the genuine mitsubishi oil and filter and stuff. Cost me $32 for the oil and filter. Not sure about the quality though i thought genuine mitsubishi oil would be costly but was only $18 (weird).

Well I have been using it since Mitsubishi used it once on my car during a regular service (about 2 years ago) and havn't had any problems yet???, dunno maybe I should switch to thicker just incase, anyone else have any thoughts on this? :D

Don't change if you havent had problems.