Hi good people,

My TE Magna has been suffering the immobiliser no start thing that seems have been mentioned a bit around here and other forums. This has been going on for about a year, requiring two tows and countless strandings. Sometimes it starts after a hour or so, sometimes you need a tow at 2am. I've had replacement keys made and reprogrammed old ones with no luck.
The symptoms are :-
Engine warning light stays on when moving key to On position (without going to start). So there is an error from the beginning.
Engine cranks over when trying to start, but does not kick in.
RACV said that the cylinder had spark, but no fuel. So they thought it was the fuel pump.

I'm led to believe that immobiliser cuts out the fuel pump relay. Yesterday I installed a switch to temporaralily bridge the contacts on the fuel pump, and tested by disconnecting the key ring antenna to simulate the fault, but this did not work.
I've now cut the key ring antenna plug off and soldered that directly, as I read that that could also be a cause. It is working so far.

What I'd like to know is if there is a way to totally take the immobiliser out of play, so this will never happen again. I thought the fuel pump switch would do it, but obviously not.

Thanks in advance.
Anthony

Its not possible to bypass the immobiliser. The key chip/transponder sends a signal through the pickup to the ECU. Without that signal it won't go. Don't bother just cutting some wires either. lol

You can but not sure if the wire need to be grounded or fed 12V :(

NO you can not bypass the immob, a gound or power will NOT give the ECU the correct code from the immob that it requires

OP, if you are having this issue, I am able to programme a new immob in for you as I have a MUTTII, this "may" help and fix your problem as fuel cut is done by the ECU, it cuts the pulse, not the fuel pump

Thanks Sparky,
I'm working off the TH wiring diagrams, but it looks the same as what I have woth the TE.
With the fuel pump relay, my first attempt bridged the contacts. Perhaps I did something wrong.
The ECU seems to control the grounding of the fuel pump relay coil via Pin 2. If I ground Pin 2, the relay should activate.
It's all I can see that is controlled by the immobiliser, unless you can see something else?

This is a shame this happened, as the car is otherwise mechanically A1, considering it has done 334000kms!!

Givee mal a try since he in the same state as you, plus can fix your problem.

The TH and TE are also totally different systems, the TH runs the Immob through a BEM and the TE has a separate immob under the dash in the centre above the console

Again, you can not bypass the immob, if it was that easy Mits would not have put it in and also delers would have been bypassing them for years when immob units die, as neither are the case you can see where this is going :)

Hi Madmagna,
Are you saying that the ECU will not only cut the fuel relay pump, but also not send signals to the injectors?
Therefore it effectively shuts down the whole fuel supply system. That would explain a fair bit.
I've had multiple reprograms done, and am convinced it's a faulty connector or wiring somewhere.
Is there a fault code that comes out on the MUT-II that would give more info other than "Fail to start" as i've been advised?

Thanks
Anthony,

Thanks for the good info Madmagna,

Is the immobiliser unit in the TE where you are saying, above the "Centre air outlet assembly".
It might be worth getting to it and re-seating the connectors.

Heat is also major factor in replicating this fault. Generally will happen on warm days, and after driving for a while then stopping, and then restarting while the car is still warm.
Not a problem when you drive it to work and leave it to cool down for 9 hours, but a major problem when you stop off to say, fill up with fuel.

Cheers,
Anthony,

There is a large difference between a re programme and actually putting a new immob in and programming that to your car

If the immob is faulty, then no amount of re programming will fix it, it will keep doing the same thing

Have you also changed the immob ring itself as well as these often will cause issues as well

hmmm this could be the issue with my car, worked last night but not today. where abouts is the unit itself? and how do i confirm its the immob?

I've not changed the key ring antenna, but cut the plug and soldered it directly. It probably should be replaced.
Is there any trick ytou replacing the immobiliser unit (reprogramming etc)?
How exactly do i get to the immobiliser unit?

Key signal --> pickup --> ECU.

There is no "imobiliser unit" as such. Perhaps the ECU can be reprogrammed to not worry about the immobiliser signal?

Key signal --> pickup --> ECU.

There is no "imobiliser unit" as such. Perhaps the ECU can be reprogrammed to not worry about the immobiliser signal?

Max, sorry mate where did you get this from as is wrong. There is an immob on the TE/F, is located behind the ash tray, is a little black box, is needed to get the car to run, you unplug this sucker and car is a no go

would a faulty imob prevent the remote central locking working?

Ahh, that's where the immobiliser unit is. I'll give it a nudge.
Do you know if I can replace it straight up, or is there key re-teaching involved?

Lowrider - I'm not 100% sure, but I dont think the remote is linked to the immobiliser. Mine has never worked since day one, so I just have to open and close with the key. There is a receiver unit located directly behind the bonnet release lever. maybe check that out.

Anthony.

Max, sorry mate where did you get this from as is wrong. There is an immob on the TE/F, is located behind the ash tray, is a little black box, is needed to get the car to run, you unplug this sucker and car is a no go

Well, wrong again! lol Just when I though I had a grip on how Mitsu designed things, they go and change their approach on me! B#st#rds! lol

Ahh, that's where the immobiliser unit is. I'll give it a nudge.
Do you know if I can replace it straight up, or is there key re-teaching involved?

Lowrider - I'm not 100% sure, but I dont think the remote is linked to the immobiliser. Mine has never worked since day one, so I just have to open and close with the key. There is a receiver unit located directly behind the bonnet release lever. maybe check that out.

Anthony.


thats strange that yours doesnt work at all, if i go to open my car and its fails to open, then the car wont start too

what i have done with my cars is cut the key part off so your only left with the transponder part and cable tie/glue it to the key barrel and then you can have keys re-cut and will be able to work on the vehicle, and have an after market alarm installed. i was an auto sparkie for a number of years, the alarm i had fitted to my car you'll never be able to get around unless its on a tow truck.

got mine to start today. found the fuse for the interior light blown, replace fuse car starts. WTF??? pull fuse out, car not start.

yea with some of the wiring even though you have desiginated fuses there are also some which carry the current to other parts of the vehicle to

funny thing is, ive blown the fuse before and never had a problem

ok, so i looked behind the ashtray, and there are two boxes. one on the right, black plastic with Bosch on it, and to the left a metal (silver) with mitsubishi on it.
pulled the cable out of the black plastic one, and the car didn't even crank over. couldn't get to the cable on the silver box, but i think that's the cruise ecu - which incidentally doesn't work either.

is the black box the immobiliser unit?

can i replace it straight out with one from the wreckers?

thanks for all the help so far

Black one is the immob and will need to be programmed when replaced

does the immobiliser ecu need to be reprogrammed, or just the keys...how does it work?
my mechanic has the mut-ii and has i believe has done it before.
there is also an evoscan cable/software that looks like it might be able to do it as well.

cheers....i think i'm getting closer to resolving this.

Only a MUTTII can do this and you also need to have the Pin code installed to programme keys, 3 attempts and you will lock out the immob and will then be useless

thanks for the warning. i think i'll get my mechanic to do the reprogram.
picked up an immobiliser unit and key ring antenna today....and a new ashtray which i smashed getting access to the immobiliser

A minor update.

After cutting the key ring antenna plug, and soldering the wires direct, the car had a "failed start" again, but started immediately afterwards on the next try.
So, it's down to the immobilizer unit, or connection between it and the engine ECU.
Will keep people updated.

Anthony.

Hi Anthony,
Got exactly the same problem with my 3L TF.
Basicaly good car but totally stuffed by this issue and Mitsubishi no real help...just reprogram a new key!!
Tried lots and also reprogramming the unit but to no avial.
Is the key ring antenna fix still working or is it still not starting?
Thanks Alice

Hey Alice,
The key ring antenna plug fix thing didn't work, as there was a fail to start a few weeks back. Now i'm too scared to take it on important drives.
I got a hold of another immobilizer unit from the wreckers but need my mechanic to reprogram the keys to suit. This will happen in the next week.
If it fails again after this, i'm through, as it can only be the ECU.
Very disappointed in mitsubishi's response to this issue as well.
AC

Hey Alice,
The key ring antenna plug fix thing didn't work, as there was a fail to start a few weeks back. Now i'm too scared to take it on important drives.
I got a hold of another immobilizer unit from the wreckers but need my mechanic to reprogram the keys to suit. This will happen in the next week.
If it fails again after this, i'm through, as it can only be the ECU.
Very disappointed in mitsubishi's response to this issue as well.
AC

For starters, does your mechanic have a MUTTII so the new immob can be re programmed into the ECU and keys, and does he have the pin code for the IMMOB as well as this will be required. AFAIK I am one of the very few NON mits dealers who actually has the MUTTII as well as the key pin codes

If is ECU, will be a perm no go, ECU's dont generally play up

You also state you are very dissapointed with Mitsubishi over the response, I am not sure what you would expect from Mits in so far as a fix on a car that is over 12 years old with 90% of the parts of this car now being obsolete? Would be interested to know what your dealings are with Mits and what has dissapointed you

If your mechanic is not able to get it all up and running then I can use my MUTTII, I charge $50 to plug in and programme

Cheers for the heads up.

Yeah, my mechanic has the MUTTII and has reprogrammed the current immob unit a couple of times before. If he does not have the codes and can't do it i'll get in touch. Where abouts in Melb are you?

I must admit that I have never spoken directly to mitsubishi over the issue, but everyone i have spoken to that has about this (or read on the internet), has received no genuine advice on the issue from them. Given it's an intemediate issue, a lot of the time you think it's fixed, until you're out somewhere at 1am and the car won't start.
Such a pity, as the car is great mechanical shape. been serviced religiously, and has done 335,000km. We only use it now as a backup though.

There is one other thing that it might be...a far shot...the wiring of the key ring antenna to the immob unit seems to be unshielded, however on the TH wiring diagrams, this cable run is shown as shielded. Perhaps it was acknowledged as an issue and fixed between TE to TH?

AC

Hi Anthony,
Any luck with the replacement immobiliser.?..or did you replace the ECU?
I am about to replace my imobiliser unit as all alse has failed. Would appreciate feedback.
Thanks Alice

the problem lies with the key it self.. been there done that with 2 magnas and a lancer with the same setup.. you can point at everything for the problem but after a while the keys ware out
IF you have a spare try using that.. if not get a new key done and coded in - in all the cars ive had the exact problem with a new key has solved for good

Sorry......Not all the time....had a new key cut by Mitsubishi and still have the problem...I now have 3 of them.

presume your using the new key all of the time? and mitsi coded in all 3 at the same time.. have you tried 2 sets noting which is the new and when the problem arises trying one of the spares 2nd go?
also worth noting on the te/tfs 3 bad go's it will lock you out for an hour or so no matter what you do...

Have had several immob units fail in recent times, keys do seem to fail after a time but mostly the issue these days with the TE/F is the immob

Sorry for the thread revival..... But!

I have the exact same problem as this, and from what I gather is, to have my car run again, I need 3 new keys/Immobiliser unit and I need to have them all reprogrammed?

Also, does the key acctually have a transmitter that tells the Immobiliser that there is a key within a certain range?

if you have a TF, just get an immob module and have your existing keys programmed into this, dealers will say can not be done but I have done it so many times with my MUTTII, same as they have, even done it for some dealers lol

Hello again.
I have not actually had the immobiliser replaced and keys reprogrammed yet....have actually bought another car, and the rego on the magna has expired. It's still running A1 though, but need to covertly drive it to the mechanics to get it reprogrammed.

Not sold on that idea that you get locked out for an hour after three bad starts. I've restarted it within 15mins after a dozen attempts, using three different keys.

Is actually the head unit where you are locked out of for 3 bad attempts, not he immob lol

G'day,
Sorry to open an old thread but just want some info before I get started.
I've got 2 TE magna's. One has no keys, and the car is in good condition. The other has keys, but has been in an accidient.
Can I swap the ECU, Immobiliser block, and Ignition barrel from one car to the other to get it to start??
Just seems to be a bit easier than having to buy new keys and coding etc....

Thanks for the help

What you state is the cheapest way, remove ecu, immob from under console and barrel, not sure how you are going to et the barrel out of the car with no key as it has to be on acc position to get the barrel out unless you change over the column

Ahh. good point.
I havent had a look at the igniton yet. I assume it is like other cars with shear bolts holding the igniton lock/bracket to the column. Would that be right?
So if I do all that the car should start no problems?
Thanks