I am due for a new windscreen but need to get rid of my current shaking mess of a rear view mirror.

I am led to believe the 380 rear view mirror is vastly improved in design than the 3rd gen as far as stability etc goes. Anyone care to confirm thanks or have a pic of the mount area. Any comments or experiences about this would be much appreciated.

I shoved a receipt into the mount of the mirror, doesn't move at all.

I shoved a receipt into the mount of the mirror, doesn't move at all.

Going to try that, mine shakes like buggery.

Does anyone know what that button does on the 380 rear view mirror, with the red and green light? my mate is stumped

Going to try that, mine shakes like buggery.

Does anyone know what that button does on the 380 rear view mirror, with the red and green light? my mate is stumped

That turns on or off the automatic dimming/electro-chromic function.

That turns on or off the automatic dimming/electro-chromic function.

which is?

You mean this, right?

http://imgur.com/C2ife.jpg

That is it.

You mean this, right?

http://imgur.com/C2ife.jpg

That is it.

Yeah thats it, oh so it gets rid of glare?

10-4 on that. It replaces the little tab you have on the Magna mirror.

As for the question sturdiness, mine doesn't vibrate at all.

380 mirrors suffer from the same faults as a magna mirror. Twisting the stem around so it grips on new part of ball has helped some people. Depending where it vibrates, at the cup and ball swivels or at the mount.
Does your mirror shake all the time, or just with Bass. That can't be avoided. If its sloppy though try the fix above.

The 380 mirror will fit a third gen, and has a similar (stupid) clamp lock. But the (380) Electro-chromatic mirror has a grub screw to hold it in place on the screen metal tab. And should still fit a 3rd gen.
One of the buttons turns it off, for day time driving. Mine only has one.
How many does he have and what model is it from.

An electric mirror has a Gel that can block varying amounts of light depending on the level of current passed through the gel. This Gel resides in bag inbetween the front glass of the mirror and the Silver oxide backing glass.
There is two Light sensors, front and rear measuring light, When low levels at the front and high levels at the rear are detected, a current passes though the gel, lowering the reflectivity of the mirror. The greater the difference, the more current is used.
If yours does not perform well, and you have tinted rear glass. Cover the front sensor with a similar tint.

TBH, I never had problems with mine. However, it is also auto-chormatic so may have slightly different mounts to the magnas.

380 mirrors suffer from the same faults as a magna mirror. Twisting the stem around so it grips on new part of ball has helped some people. Depending where it vibrates, at the cup and ball swivels or at the mount.
Does your mirror shake all the time, or just with Bass. That can't be avoided. If its sloppy though try the fix above.

The 380 mirror will fit a third gen, and has a similar (stupid) clamp lock. But the (380) Electro-chromatic mirror has a grub screw to hold it in place on the screen metal tab. And should still fit a 3rd gen.
One of the buttons turns it off, for day time driving. Mine only has one.
How many does he have and what model is it from.

An electric mirror has a Gel that can block varying amounts of light depending on the level of current passed through the gel. This Gel resides in bag inbetween the front glass of the mirror and the Silver oxide backing glass.
There is two Light sensors, front and rear measuring light, When low levels at the front and high levels at the rear are detected, a current passes though the gel, lowering the reflectivity of the mirror. The greater the difference, the more current is used.
If yours does not perform well, and you have tinted rear glass. Cover the front sensor with a similar tint.

Ok. Thanks for the detailed response. Another stupid question, how does it get power if it is mounted on the screen? Where do the wires run?

Oh, and for the record, I have a Standard 380 Day/night mirror and a TW magna Day/Night mirror in my lockup. They are Identical, even to the part number.

As for power I ran fused Power from the Phone power plug under the Centre console, in front of your gear selector.

There is an adapter in most models (magna) with four pins pointing rearwards.
IIRC they are

Constant power....... / Earth
----------------------------------
Acc Switched power / Mute.....
But check it.

Ok. Thanks for the detailed response. Another stupid question, how does it get power if it is mounted on the screen? Where do the wires run?

There is a wire from the rear of the mirror that enters the headlining at top of windscreen. That can vibrate sometimes against the glass.... cant win!

380 mirrors suffer from the same faults as a magna mirror. Twisting the stem around so it grips on new part of ball has helped some people. Depending where it vibrates, at the cup and ball swivels or at the mount.
Does your mirror shake all the time, or just with Bass. That can't be avoided. If its sloppy though try the fix above.

The 380 mirror will fit a third gen, and has a similar (stupid) clamp lock. But the (380) Electro-chromatic mirror has a grub screw to hold it in place on the screen metal tab. And should still fit a 3rd gen.
One of the buttons turns it off, for day time driving. Mine only has one.
How many does he have and what model is it from.

An electric mirror has a Gel that can block varying amounts of light depending on the level of current passed through the gel. This Gel resides in bag inbetween the front glass of the mirror and the Silver oxide backing glass.
There is two Light sensors, front and rear measuring light, When low levels at the front and high levels at the rear are detected, a current passes though the gel, lowering the reflectivity of the mirror. The greater the difference, the more current is used.
If yours does not perform well, and you have tinted rear glass. Cover the front sensor with a similar tint.

I can vouch for that. My mirror never vibrated noticably, but it did have an intermittent buzzy rattle in it.
I twisted it once around the front/lower mounting ball (a single 360 degree turn) and hey presto, no more rattle!
(Base model with basic mirror, no fancy chromatic stuff)

I have a series 3 SX and had my mirror replaced under warranty earlier this year. It had a vibration at certain revs. Originally i thought it was a dash rattle but the dealer identified it as the mirror and ordered in a new one.

does anyone know how to remove the stock mirror in the 380? ive tried and i cant get it off. I want to upgrade to the electro-chromatic mirror, which was easy to get off as its just a grub screw. The stock one is clipped on and i dont want to break the window pulling it off

In the 3rd Gens, another cause for rattles/shakes of the interior rear-view mirror can be due to some weakened rivets inside the mounting of the mirror. I have had this issue with a photo-chromatic mirror added into my TJ Sports.

The Mirror mounting base which attaches to the windscreen "plate" is moulded alloy, in a nicely swoopy shape. Inside the alloy base, is a hard steel clip which grabs the sides of the "plate" guled to the glass, and the hard steel clip also has a locking tab which makes it such a drama to remove the mirror (esp if you don't look or understand how it clips on). The hard steel clip is rivetted to the inside of that pretty black alloy mounting base. In my case the rivets where badly punched, and the steel bit was working loose against the alloy - it shook like a bastard.

Just need to get the mirror and mounting base off the glass, find a way to secure the base firmly without damaging it, and then a few judicious taps with a punch onto the rivets, to tighten-up the steel clip against the alloy base. When I say "rivets", they are actually projections of the alloy mounting block which poke through holes in the steel clip, and are then stamped/pressed to flare the alloy and secure the clip part. It seems they are often done in a half-assed way, or else the alloy is a bit too soft and the junction becomes loose over time. That said, take care not to whack the "rivet" bits too hard and stuff it completely. Go hard, but not too hard, Son!

Thanks for the responses guys. Still thinking on which way to go. Cheers.