Paint on our TS wagon is utterly screwed, bonnet and roof have only about 1/3 clear coat left and looks like base coat is wrecked too.

For anyone who knows:

1. Do metallic paints have to be done as a full car respray? I've seen differing opinions, but it seems the paint needs to be applied in the same direction to match properly across the whole body. Or else something about when respraying a bonnet they have to do the front guards at the same time?

2. If the roof is resprayed, do they end up doing everything down to the rear quarters? Effectively it's the same panel. You can't respray half a panel, right?

3. Anyone in VIC know approximate prices for a full respray. Was quoted $1100 for bonnet and roof about a year and a half ago when the paint wasn't so bad. (Sorry, that should really be in the VIC section)

Paint is metallic silver, code CV (Vermont Silver I think). I'm thinking I'll find another bonnet with matching paint code and cut and polish that up as a replacement. Roof has to be resprayed though, just don't really want a respray that'll cost as much as another 2nd gen. Willing to do all prep myself if it'll cut costs.

Thanks,
Matt

hey there,

what painters do say if you are getting your roof painted they prep the area and they also going down the quarters iswell but all depends on how good the painter is to blend the colour in. same with bonnets they may do a bit on the guards to blend the colours in. or you may get a slightly different colour on your bonnet than the guard so thats why they blend it in :).

if you are going to get your car resprayed make sure you get a quailty paint. there many different types out there. Im going through a complete respray on mine at the mo. Im using top quailty 2k paint as it hard wearing and you dont need to worry about a clear coat.
Normally a complete resparay over here using Laquer paint with clear is about $1500 from your average jo.

hey there,

what painters do say if you are getting your roof painted they prep the area and they also going down the quarters iswell but all depends on how good the painter is to blend the colour in. same with bonnets they may do a bit on the guards to blend the colours in. or you may get a slightly different colour on your bonnet than the guard so thats why they blend it in :).

if you are going to get your car resprayed make sure you get a quailty paint. there many different types out there. Im going through a complete respray on mine at the mo. Im using top quailty 2k paint as it hard wearing and you dont need to worry about a clear coat.
Normally a complete resparay over here using Laquer paint with clear is about $1500 from your average jo.

Mate for $1500 you'd be getting a VERY basic job, bumpers left on, lights taped around. No clear coat on a metallic? OK, Well you do that......personal opinion but having a clear coat is much better over the next 20 years or so the car plans to be running.

Like you said as well, depends how good the painter is. he should be able to blend down the pillars no worrys.
If you plan on keeping the car a while longer, spend the extra money and get ir done right.

I just had a car resprayed, bumpers off, bonnet off, many panels and dints fixed up, looking at over $3500+ for a closed door. You pay for the quality of the job and the paints. Thats my opinion anyway.

yes thats why i said from your average joe.it cost me $5500 on my Rx323 and i done all my own prep work. but hes the only guy i trust.

Clear on metallic is a must & not optional. Otherwise you will never get smooth paint finish & will have abrasion from metallic component of the paint. Good panel beater will blend in with pillars & quarter panels using metallic no problems. Do all the messy things yourself like sanding back with 400 grid paper take out the trims & rubbers for all the widows (ones that come in contact with the roof). If you got compressor apply undercoat yourself & send it back with 800 grid paper to roughen up the surface. Undercoat is optional depending on the surface of the current paint, one of the purposes of undercoat is to even out the surface. Then also if you know what you are doing polish it yourself after they paint it for you, but you do need a proper polisher that will set you back about $120 for a cheap one (im not talking about those $40 ones "orbital polisher" those wont work, you need the one with adjustable speed settings).

Anyhow do all that & ull can get the roof done for about $400-500

Thanks guys. Yeah I figured a closed door respray would be a couple of grand even if I do all the prep.

So if I do the roof in primer I've got to feather if off down the pillars, right? How much of the clear coat do I have so sand back to do that? You mean using primer filler yeah?

Also, what do you do for touch-ups on metallic? Do you have to rub back clear, prime, base coat and a couple of coats of clear? Say for areas like around the door handle which has a lot of key scratches. Heard something about a 2k in a can system, but never figured out whether that was actually true or not.

There's lots of information on the internet about painting a car, and the prep work involved.

If the clear on the roof is in poor condition - which it will be by the sound of it - you need to get rid of it, rub it all back to the colour coat. The clear is tougher than the colour coat and you are best off taking it down to the factory primer if the colour coat has been exposed to the weather for too long. Having painted the roof on a TS wagon myself all I can say is - I hope you have plenty of time, its a big surface to rub down. lol

Touch ups on metallics never work, you get colour/shade/flake differences which stand out like a dogs donger. Do the whole door, then expect it not to match the other doors closely.

I'm currently doing a full colour change on a TJ, from Daintree Green to Flame Red in acrylic lacquer. Cost of materials is about $500, labour is the killer. If I charged myself $50 an hour, I'd be up to about $5K. lol