The local pro told me to put the dynamat on the outside panel, yet the instructions on the box say to install it like a weather shield (i.e. sheet the inside panel and discard the weather shield). The latter would be easier and that weather shield is getting a bit aged so I'm tempted to do this. Think it will make much difference to the sound quality?

I'd like to dynamat on top of the parcel shelf, underneath the carpet. How do I get the carpet off?

Also, thinking about getting some el cheapo voodoo from e-bay and doing the rear doors and drive train. Worth it? No speakers in rear doors btw.

Thanks a heap :)

With Dynamat the outer panel is the most important because it is a large flat area and is prone to resonance. The inner skin is also important but not a crucial because all the bends in the fame make it less prone to resonance. On the inner skin it is best to use a combination of MDF and Dynamat to seal the service holes and if matting allows the rest of the skin this will help create a resonance free speaker enclosure. An extra note is if you are doing both skins you will no longer need the weather shield as it is only there to stop water that gets in the door from getting on the trim.

To do the parcel shelf it is easiest to take the back seat out and then pry all the little black plugs out, and then it really just pulls straight out. Take your time and find all the plugs before you pull though.

I wouldnt use the vodoo stuff at all because in heat it will peel off like most inferior products, use Dynamat but even then the rear doors wont make much of a difference.

To do the drive train/ floor it is best to use a mixture of Dynamat, Dynapad and Dynaliner or MLC and CCF products, Dyanmat just by itself will really accomplish nothing.

^^ appreciated, ty.

With Dynamat the outer panel is the most important because it is a large flat area and is prone to resonance. The inner skin is also important but not a crucial because all the bends in the fame make it less prone to resonance. On the inner skin it is best to use a combination of MDF and Dynamat to seal the service holes and if matting allows the rest of the skin this will help create a resonance free speaker enclosure. An extra note is if you are doing both skins you will no longer need the weather shield as it is only there to stop water that gets in the door from getting on the trim.

To do the parcel shelf it is easiest to take the back seat out and then pry all the little black plugs out, and then it really just pulls straight out. Take your time and find all the plugs before you pull though.

I wouldnt use the vodoo stuff at all because in heat it will peel off like most inferior products, use Dynamat but even then the rear doors wont make much of a difference.

To do the drive train/ floor it is best to use a mixture of Dynamat, Dynapad and Dynaliner or MLC and CCF products, Dyanmat just by itself will really accomplish nothing.


Can you elaborate on this please, as I wouldn't mind doing my floor soo & would rather do it right first time.

Thanks.

Ok well if you pull all your interior you will want to use Dynamat or a reputable sound deadner on the thin flat panels that are prone to vibration and resonance.

Once that is done you want to do you floor with Dynapad which is a relatively thick foam matting type of product. The first thing to do would be to do would be placing it under the front seats, you want to cover as much area as possible with one sheet to get the max potential out of it. Then you will want to do under the back seats, once again using one big sheet as opposed to more smaller sheets.

Dynaliner is a thin foam like product that helps separates the cars metal chassis from parts that could rattle on the chassis.

Below in an MEA link where one member has done this to a WRX.
http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/559465-mad89s-project-wrx/

For those of you that cant see the pics in the mobile electronics site....

http://www.formaudio.com/images/cars/98SubaruWRX/IMGP8958.JPG

http://www.formaudio.com/images/cars/98SubaruWRX/IMGP8982.JPG

http://www.formaudio.com/images/cars/98SubaruWRX/IMGP9000.JPG

http://www.formaudio.com/images/cars/98SubaruWRX/P1010788.JPG

And heres some more examples....

http://www.formaudio.com/images/cars/98SubaruWRX/IMGP9377.JPG

http://www.formaudio.com/images/cars/98SubaruWRX/IMGP9368.JPG

http://www.formaudio.com/images/cars/98SubaruWRX/IMGP9387.JPG

Why do half a job plenty more Dynamat can be installed in most of those pics

Why do half a job plenty more Dynamat can be installed in most of those pics

Because these guys were smart enough to do the knock test and realised more dynamat would just be wasting their money. You need to realise how well the dynapad works aswell.

Edit: You will also notice that there is stock deadner on the parts of the floor that havent been covered in dynamat.

Because these guys were smart enough to do the knock test and realised more dynamat would just be wasting their money. You need to realise how well the dynapad works aswell.

Whats the Dynapad like, how Dear? my mate put over 100 square foot of dynamat xtreme in his car? better off with some pad?

Because these guys were smart enough to do the knock test and realised more dynamat would just be wasting their money. You need to realise how well the dynapad works aswell.

Whats the Dynapad like, how Dear? my mate put over 100 square foot of dynamat xtreme in his car? better off with some pad?

They packs of Dynapad retail for $200rrp, you can find cheaper on www.ryda.com.au and get more details there.

If he used alot of dynamat on the floor than he would have been better off with dynapad, since dynapad is actually used to block out the road noise.

Just finished 'Extreming' the front doors. Pumps much harder without distortion now, however I'm gonna blow another pack and do the inside of the trim - gets a mid-base vibe up.

Haven't done the parcel shelf yet, some tool must have replaced the fuel pump and cross-threaded one of the bolts securing the seat. Bit hesitant to get the angle grinder in there :sook:

Just finished 'Extreming' the front doors. Pumps much harder without distortion now, however I'm gonna blow another pack and do the inside of the trim - gets a mid-base vibe up.


Dont forget to seal service holes and either coat the stock baffle in Resin and matting or make an MDF Baffle.

Thanks again peeandham. One more q - I have now removed the rear seat and parcel shelf carpet and I notice that there is some stock sound baffle under the carpet. This got me wondering whether I should mat the shelf from the boot side? Also, whilst the seat is out should I mat the area behind the seat back (inside cabin)?

Ok well first, are you talking about the coloured fluffy underlay type stuff? If so keep it but still dynamat on the top side of the parcel shelf.

There are only few bits i would look at at Dynamatting behind the back seat, perform the knock test to decide where you need to matt. You wont need to dynamat the whole parcel shelf or all the area behind the seat.

Damn! I just finished doing the bottom side :eek2:

Thanks again peeandham!