Hi,
i posted something before about valve seal oil. after sitting at the lights for a while when i take off a puff of blue smoke comes out

I have purchased some penrite 20w-60. is that too thick??

i am using all wynn's additives:
oil flush
engine protectant

thanks in advance

valve stem seals probably need to be replaced mate, thats the only cure. Are you sure its those anyway?

How many k's does it have?

Yeah too thick really mate. Mine is the same but i dont run thick oil to compensate. Need to get valve stem seals done, well actually i think its the valve stem seals. Just frightened of getting the quotes for such a job.

I'd try the 20W60 oil for 2 reasons: first, you've bought it already and it's a shame to throw it away, and second, using oil flush will (in theory) clean out all the sludge etc as it acts as a very strong detergent - when you drain the oil after using engine flush there will still be traces of it left in the system....maybe 50ml or so residual flush left in the engine, adding 5 litres of 20W60 oil will probably thin out a little due to the slight dilution of the residual engine flush.
I also figure that the odd puff or two of smoke at start-up or at the lights is 'something nothing'.....and the cost to fix far outweighs the advantages.
My opinions only.

well i believe it will fix it because it hasnt been doing it lately (only the odd day) so ill put the 20W-60 in. if it starts doing it again ill just shove a used engine in. car has 203,000km

20W-60 is way too think dude... The thickest cold weight you want is 15, even then the lower the better.

something semi syn in 15w-40 will be good. Valvoline engine armour comes to mind.

well im on 15 watt now, hasn''t been doing it lately, and never blows smoke or even smells oily on startup. so 20 should fix any concerns i have for a while i hope

I myself wouldnt run 20w-50 until i have reached well over 250xxxk's. If you have an issue with smoke before then, i would suggest it would be something like your valve seals. Sure you can try 20w-50 to see if it fixes the issue but when you do that your fuel economy and motor performance will suffer when the car is cold.

Are you having to top up the oil in-between services?

You've made the right decision mate. Penny 20 60 is perfect ( maybe slightly thick for a cold start but it's summer ), people forget that the magna is meant to be run on 10-15 oil when it's brand new. Not after 200000 km's. I wouldnt run the oil flush in it though, fit meant to go in just before the oil Change so the sludge comes out with the old oil.

You are using the Wynns so that is a great start, are you getting the Ripco off the shelf stuff or the proper workshop grade here

Also remember, you dont change oil as the engine gets older, this is a real myth and has caused more engine wear over the years than most understand.

While this batch of 20w will not hurt, next change, go back to HPR15 at the most and use the wynns as well. I have been finding that the third gens seem to suffer from varnish on the valve stems and this may be the cause of the seal smoke, have had a couple of them where we have run the flush for 30 or so mins idling and near all of the smoke has gone with the oil change. Is worth a try. If the smoke still persists, is cheaper to get a new motor than it is to remove heads and fix this one

Remember, the thinner oil is because of the very tight tollerances in these engines, the 380 tollerance in the main bearings is so tight that they have been known to spin bearings

Also remember, you dont change oil as the engine gets older, this is a real myth and has caused more engine wear over the years than most understand.




Can you enlarge on that...or is it a typo?:confused: I had a Jaguar that I never needed to change oil on due to the leaks but..

I've mainly been using Valvoline semi-synthetic 15W-40 in my TJII. I'm currently running a fully synthetic 10W-30 oil made by Nulon. The car has done 190K and doesn't blow any smoke. I've noticed a slight increase in oil consumption with the thinner oil. At the next oil change I'm going to try the Nulon semi-synthetic 20W-50. This viscosity was suggested because at 190K the engine is considered to be worn to the extent that it requires a thicker oil than what I've been using.

I've mainly been using Valvoline semi-synthetic 15W-40 in my TJII. I'm currently running a fully synthetic 10W-30 oil made by Nulon. The car has done 190K and doesn't blow any smoke. I've noticed a slight increase in oil consumption with the thinner oil. At the next oil change I'm going to try the Nulon semi-synthetic 20W-50. This viscosity was suggested because at 190K the engine is considered to be worn to the extent that it requires a thicker oil than what I've been using.

have you noticed the lifters being more vocal with that viscosity 10w-30?

Moving from 10w-50 to a 10w-40 has made my tappets noticably louder.

Also remember, you dont change oil as the engine gets older, this is a real myth and has caused more engine wear over the years than most understand.


@Hako - I think what Mal means is that "there is no need to change the OIL GRADE when servicing, as your car gets older".
Obviously, you MUST change engine oil according to service schedule, miles, time, driving style etc. Mal is saying that as your engine ages and begins to wear a bit, that changing to a heavier GRADE of oil is not required (or a good idea) in a Magna V6.

IN THEORY. the lower W number the better, it means it flows easier when the engine is cold thus lubricating better, ALSO if the car gets older it doesnt mean you must use thicker oil. In my car i have been using Royal Purple 10W40 for years, my car has done over 270,000ks since i bought it brand new not a hint of smoke EVER, now im not saying everyone should buy $100 dollar oil like i have. If you are concerned about oil being too thick and flowing properly when cold well in that case there are plenty Penrite synthetic oils with 0-60, 0-70, 0-80 ratings which means then flow very easy & have extra film thickness to perhaps stop it from seeping past the stem seals. Question whether you feel like spending $70 odd dollars to try it out.

have you noticed the lifters being more vocal with that viscosity 10w-30?

Moving from 10w-50 to a 10w-40 has made my tappets noticably louder.

I haven't noticed that the lifters are more vocal with this oil compared to the 15W-40. I've had the 10W-30 oil in for nearly 15K without any issues at all. It's the first time I've used the Nulon brand - it's Australian made so I thought I would give it a try.