Im thinking of getting a bit more cheap bass in my car. Most of the sound seems to be comming out the front of the car. Ive checked out the rear speakers, they are only 15W as stock.
Would anyone know how many watt are the front speakers come with in a stock 97 KE Verada?

Im thinking of replacing those rear speakers at the back of the car as a temporary thing and save up for some decent set of subs in a month or so.

Would anyone know how to remove rear speakers? Do the plastic caps just come off when prizing it open with a screw driver and remove the screws from underneath?

You will need to remove the plastic covers first. Do this from the boot, ther are a few nuts you need to undo then the plastic cover should pop right off.

Then you will need some tiny hands to get the speaker out, they are a little bit of a hassle, but just get in there and do it is the best advice I can give.

THanks, i shall give that a go :D.

You reckon replacing those 15Watt speakers at the back with some $100 6x9 pioneers will make much of a difference in sound?
Cheers

Yes, it will make a fair bit of difference.

Is your HU stock?

Nar my headunit is a 120 dollar sony xplod 208watt

sweet ill give this a go. Are all the connectors universal? it will just clip straight in?

front speakers are 3W if i recall :)

Nar my headunit is a 120 dollar sony xplod 208watt

sweet ill give this a go. Are all the connectors universal? it will just clip straight in?

ermmm mine werent, i just cut and connected ahhaha

Go A set of Fusion 2-way 6x9's can be picked up for under $100 and will make a monumental difference in sound..
Thing I have noticed with the Sony head units is the Bass adjustment never goes low enough... You can have Bass on +10 and it still lacks thump...
My next Headunit will have a good old fashioned LOUD button...
(No I didnt buy my headunit it came with the car and I have not bothered to rip it out)

Fronts are 15 Watters as well..6.5 inch Roundies...

I used a set of Spade terminals to connect my rear 6x9's up to the factory plug.
http://www.ouros.co.uk/image/dproducts/econnect/4.jpg

Thing I have noticed with the Sony head units is the Bass adjustment never goes low enough... You can have Bass on +10 and it still lacks thump...
My next Headunit will have a good old fashioned LOUD button...

On my Sony HU, there is a button DM+ which is used to 'boost' the frequencies of digital music which are lost during encoding. Basically works as a Loud button does.

To the Op, i'm using a Sony HU with 208w output with a set of Pioneer 6x9's in the back and a set of Sony 6" in the front. Sound difference from stock set up is huge.

Biggest problem you will have is removing the stock connectors from the speakers so just do as Magna Sports 1999 did (i did the same) and cut the connectors off.
Then use the correct size female connectors for your speakers and you're in business.

Just remembered, i right-angled phillips head screwdriver is needed to remove the speakers (rear windscreen gets in the way).

Wow thanks for all the responses guys really helpful.

@Magnat Hey ive heard some pretty good things about fusion, Not sure which shop would keep them in stock. Im looking at JBHIFI, they have quite a range of car speakers to choose from

http://www.jbhifi.com.au/car-sound-gps-navigation/speakers/
Best bassy speakers without an amp but with a 208w sony HU.. hmm Any suggestions?

@Caz_375, Will i need to convert the connectors on the speakers to suit the ones im currently running?

Wow 15W stock speakers compared to 300W speakers.... huge difference.

The stock speaker connectors are at right angles to each other rather than parallel to each other on aftermarket speakers.
The connector on the speaker wires is an ass to get off (for me at least) the speakers so i just cut it off leaving it attached to the original speakers.
Then attached the correct size terminals to the speaker wires. It'll make sense when you're removing the speakers ;)

Let us know if you need a hand installing them

Im thinking of replacing those rear speakers at the back of the car as a temporary thing and save up for some decent set of subs in a month or so.
If it's worth doing, it's worth doing well. "Temporary" solutions are generally a waste of time and money.


Wow 15W stock speakers compared to 300W speakers.... huge difference.
That's their peak rating. I'd say their nominal power output is about 75w.

Numbers don't mean much - a 75w speaker isn't going to be five times bassier than a 15w speaker - but it'll definitely be better than the stock speakers.

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing well. "Temporary" solutions are generally a waste of time and money.


That's their peak rating. I'd say their nominal power output is about 75w.

Numbers don't mean much - a 75w speaker isn't going to be five times bassier than a 15w speaker - but it'll definitely be better than the stock speakers.

Well said. Even doubling the specific power output only nets a 3db increase in volume. Audition a range of different 6x9s and make your purchase based on you think sounds best.

a "300W peak" speaker might actually produce less noise than a 15W speaker

The head unit will only be supplying about 20W RMS per channel (208W sounds like a MAX rating again)

If a speaker can handle 75W RMS and you feed it 20W, it won't be working as hard as it could and it might be quieter than the factory.

I think the efficiency of a speaker is reflected by it's "Sensitivity". eg: 89dB at 1 W / m means that the speaker produces an 89dB sound measured 1m away and with a 1W input power. Look for a speaker with a higher sensitivity if you want to maximise your temporary gains.

My first speaker upgrade was a set of 30W RMS Alpine 6x9s. It was enough bass to vibrate the mirror and improve sound, but didn't compare at all with sub woofer(s).

THanks guys for all the replies, my mind was going back and forth on weather to go ahead with the 6x9s or the subs.

So, i knew the sub was the way to go if i wanted bass... So i closed my eyes and put it on the trusty credit card:P

I bought some Dual xplod 1000w x 2
Orian 500:1 amp
and a $89 wiring kit, (pretty heavy duty stuff )

Im just there scratching my head.. a bit clueless of what i am doing :S

IF there is a guide on installing subbies into a subbie please link me, would be very very very appreciative. If anyone in the balwyn area wouldn't mind giving me a hand and a garage to work in, that would be tops :P
Parents know nothing...

Anyways here are some pics and what ive done so far...
http://www.picturestack.com/331/150/hKPIMG0430GSt.jpg
http://www.picturestack.com/331/150/ixHIMG0433T7b.jpg
http://www.picturestack.com/331/151/cpnIMG0434Z3a.jpg

sorry bout the massive pictures

ctrl + mouse scroll will do the trick

You should pull out the rear seats and run the power cabling under them and under the floor carpet.

agreed, leaving cables exposed is just dodgey and looks shocking

Not to mention dangerous and an open invitation for theft.. Hide everything !
Not sure what you ment by installing a Subbie into a Subbie...
In general when dealing with amplifiers, if you are not sure what you are doing.. Wait till someone who does can help you.
Pity your in Victoria or I would have done it for you..

Yeah, im going to have that fixed up with the cable taking the back cousioning out.

I wish i was in NSW :P

Ive got a friend with a bit of experience comming over to have a crack at installing the sound.
Would any of you guys know how to hook that trigger cable up? Its the long thin blue cord...

Ok, i understand the remote/trigger wire is to turn the amp on when my car is on.

Do i just run a wire from the amp to the back of the head unit. there should be some wires at the back of the head unit that arent connected to anything.
Did i just answer my own question? hmm

The Remote wire connects to the remote wire comming off the back of the Sony headunit..
Usually this Cable is Blue aswell..
The Remote wire carries a vary small current and is only used to turn the Amplifier on.. Do not make the mistake of thinking that this alone will power the amp

So i need to tap it into one of the blue wires from the wiring harness?

Check your headunit manual to make 100% sure you're connecting the remote wire to the correct wire.

Do it right the first time (ie under the carpet/seats the whole way). Rpping out amplifier wiring and doing it again is NOT a fun task - I can vouch for that from experience.

So i need to tap it into one of the blue wires from the wiring harness?

Depends what you mean about wiring harness.
My interpretation is that the wiring harness is part of the car. You don't want this.
You want a 'remote' wire from the back of the head unit.
The headunit might have 2 remote wires, one is to trigger a powered antenna and will only be active when you have the radio on, not CD/DVD/USB etc.
The other remote wire will be for an amplifier and as long as the head unit is switched on, then this "trigger" will have power to tell the amplifier to switch on.

hope this helps.

hey guys, thanks for your responses.
There arent any wires haning off the back of the headunit. I'll take some pictures tommorrow morning.

Although there is a bit of wiring hanging off the RCA from the wiring kit i bought. Could that possibly do it?

Hey guys, Ive found a guide this morning in regards to the 12v remote wire in the link below:

http://support.sony-asia.com.edgesuite.net/consumer/IM/4149111711.pdf

The remote port seems to be a shape an AUX. The blue cable does not have any attachments to it, although the amp package came with a remote which has an "AUX like" connection.

Or

Stick that blue cable into that slot in the wiring harness........

The Remote Wire (If thats your head unit) is the Blue and White Striped wire comming off the Head units wiring Harness.. It is NOT an AUX connection. Its Listed as AMP REM on that diagram you have posted up..

If you proceed and connect the wrong thing up you can set fire to you and your car...

Thanks so much for your responses guys.
Ok now for some news update.

Ive managed to find my rem amp wire comming out of the harness.. Buggers from autobarn taped it all up when they installed my headunit and crimped it together with my amp rem wire that came with the kit with some cutting, twisting and some tape.

Just to test things out, i connected my power cord from my battery directly to the amp.
I turned on the car, amp dosent seem to be turning on :S

I have a feeling that it could be a loose connection with the fuse, Im not 100%. M
Can anyone suggest any possibilities on what else could have gone wrong?

So just to make 100% sure, you've run a wire from the headunit's remote to the amp's remote in, and have connected the power and ground wires on the amp to their respective terminals?

the easiest way to remove the rear speaker is with a 1/4 inch ratchet with a 1/4 inch or 6mm socket and a phillips bit.

Thanks Red, ill check it tonight when i get home. Making sure that everything is plugged into the correct terminals.

Hope i didnt buy a blown up amp that somebody has returned to at JBHIFI...
Cheers for the tips daniel, i think ill be holding off for the rear speakers for now. :P

Hey guys would this 500w Mono amp - http://www.jbhifi.com.au/car-sound-gps-navigation/amplifiers/orion/500-watt-mono-amp-sku-73311/
be able to power dual 1000w 12" Sony Xplod - http://www.sony.com.au/product/xs-gtx120l

Just making sure.

thanks guys

Those are NOT 1000W sub woofers. They are 300W. Never ever follow the PEAK power rating because it is meaningless unless you want to know how much power to feed into a device to blow it up in less than 0.01 seconds.

The website says that the subs are SVC (single voice coil) but doesn't say that they are 2Ohm or 4 Ohm. I'll guess 4 Ohm.
So a pair of these subs wired in parallel will present a 2 Ohm load to a monoblock amplifier.
The one you linked to is rated at 500W@ 2 ohm, but that's PEAK power. RMS power is 250W x1 @ 2 Ohm.

So those 2 subs would be sent 125W RMS each and they are capable of handling 300W RMS.

This means that they won't be pushed to their limits, but IMO will sound fine and still be quite loud. So to answer your question, YES.

I used to run 2x 12" Earthquake subs from 2x40W RMS amplifier and they produced partial deafness :) and 134.1dB.

Bloody double post bug is back. can the forum be set to only allow one post from a member within 10 seconds to prevent accidental or buggy double posts?

To sum up all my dramas with sub and amp

Finially i concluded in returning both my sub and amp and bought myself kicker sub and amp package .


CHeers guys for all the help and advice. Special thanks to Samm for installing the subs for me, did a killer job (Very neat)
Totally happy with it.

IMO, Kicker is better than Sony. But the main thing is that you are happy with the sound.

So if it's time to enjoy your 'mod' then have fun!