View Full Version : 380 wouldn't start then engine light came on ....
Fantaysia
21-11-2010, 08:31 PM
So today my wife an I decided to head out to the Canningvale Markets ... Get in, turn the key and it tried to start andit turned over slowly dieing like it had a flat battery. Tried again and it got worse. So I thought ok battery needs replacing. Waited 30 seconds, tried again and it nearly started but stopped and made a clunk noise like when you stop turning the key just as it starts. Tried again and got it to start and it ran fine. So off we go and just around the corner from our place I noticed the engine light on so I drove it back. We took our Hyundai Getz instead since it NEVER breaks down :)
When we got back I measured the battery 12.4 volts - started the car (started first time) and measured 14.4 volts. So it seems everything is normal ... Engine light is still on though. I'm taking the car in for warranty work soon so I guess they will tell me.
Should I not drive it? Or has the engine light come on because it stopped mid start? Any ideas?
Mecha-wombat
21-11-2010, 08:41 PM
The battery may be on the way out
I had a similar issue all fixed with a new battery
Stormie
21-11-2010, 10:38 PM
when they plug the computer diagnosis thingy in the result is going to be the crank angle sensor code. happens when battery is weak. the increase in voltage when you started the car would be because the alternator was then running so just masking the battery's weakness.
Is fine to drive. just make sure you have a jumper pack with you as it can get a little temperamental as you've already witnessed:P
Fantaysia
21-11-2010, 10:44 PM
So it seems a new battery is the go. Yep the 14.4v I measured to make sure the alternator was working. Just seems strange that the battery would die randomly, then fully recharge after 3 minutes of driving. I started the car randomly for the rest of today and it started everytime. I'll grab a new battery tomorrow anyway.
SH00T
22-11-2010, 05:11 AM
here is a thread on this here,
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75441&highlight=Battery
Battery Requirements = 600 CCA minimun recommended. Will start on less, but this is best.
Foozrcool
22-11-2010, 05:32 AM
Don't let the battery place skimp on the CCA. Some places don't stock brands that will fit in the 380 with the higher CCA & will tell you it will be ok. Battery world were trying to flog me a 500CCA & said it would be good enough & the factory manual was probably wrong.
If you're keeping the car long term consider the Optimer, quite expensive but it has a 800CCA rating, 3 year warranty & will last up to 10 years. This is the one I ended up with.
TreeAdeyMan
22-11-2010, 06:16 AM
Don't let the battery place skimp on the CCA. Some places don't stock brands that will fit in the 380 with the higher CCA & will tell you it will be ok. Battery world were trying to flog me a 500CCA & said it would be good enough & the factory manual was probably wrong.
If you're keeping the car long term consider the Optimer, quite expensive but it has a 800CCA rating, 3 year warranty & will last up to 10 years. This is the one I ended up with.
Yep, I have one of these (Optima Red Top 800CCA), def worth the few $ extra.
Also, with the CEL and the likely crank angle sensor error code ( I think Stormie is on the money here), I got one of those two days after I fitted my new Optima battery, and I'm guessing it was because I had a voltage spike rather than a voltage drop. I didn't do anything other than delete the code with my OBD2 scanner, and it's never come up again. Thing is, when it happened to me the car went into limp home mode, and that's not a good way to drive. After leaving the car for a couple of hours I restarted it and it ran perfectly again, so the limp home mode simply went away all by itself and has never happened again. Another reason why I think it was caused by a voltage spike, or the ECU somehow reacting to the new battery.
Blackstar
22-11-2010, 09:55 AM
When we got back I measured the battery 12.4 volts - started the car (started first time) and measured 14.4 volts. So it seems everything is normal ... Engine light is still on though. I'm taking the car in for warranty work soon so I guess they will tell me.
Should I not drive it? Or has the engine light come on because it stopped mid start? Any ideas?
As soon as I read the 12.4V I stopped reading.
You have a dead cell....10 cells @1.36v each =13.6V
Fantaysia
22-11-2010, 08:26 PM
Blackstar this makes sense. So new battery it is! .. I was at he dealership today and another lady had the same fault on the same day with her 380 lol ... They told her and me $220 to fit a battery and they will adjust the throttle settings in the computer and reset a few other things ... hmmm I think its dealership talk.
I'll take the advice here and get the proper battery. Thanks for your replies :-)
Stormie
22-11-2010, 08:27 PM
no worries. we still waiting to see you at a social event :P
380ftw
23-11-2010, 12:13 AM
Blackstar this makes sense. So new battery it is! .. I was at he dealership today and another lady had the same fault on the same day with her 380 lol ... They told her and me $220 to fit a battery and they will adjust the throttle settings in the computer and reset a few other things ... hmmm I think its dealership talk.
I'll take the advice here and get the proper battery. Thanks for your replies :-)
your absolutely right with that dealership talk. As we all know the 380 has fly by wire and you can't adjust the idle. the most the tech would do is reset your radio stations. Wouldn't even bother looking at the deal paceways gave you. if your in osborne park frequently challenge batterys have resonable prices and quality batterys unlike ripco and superpoop
chrisv
23-11-2010, 04:53 AM
I replaced my battery about 6 months ago. I noticed immediately that my revs had increased on tickover to the extent the car would move forward quite quickly on idle which it had never done before. Still does it now to a lesser extent.
Stormie
23-11-2010, 08:01 AM
your absolutely right with that dealership talk. As we all know the 380 has fly by wire and you can't adjust the idle. the most the tech would do is reset your radio stations. Wouldn't even bother looking at the deal paceways gave you. if your in osborne park frequently challenge batterys have resonable prices and quality batterys unlike ripco and superpoop
and this from someone who works there :P
Fantaysia
24-11-2010, 12:10 PM
I'm not in ossy park much, I rang repco and they have a 520CCA century battery with 3 year warranty for $161 - cant really go wrong. Has to be better than the factory one.
TreeAdeyMan
24-11-2010, 12:50 PM
I'm not in ossy park much, I rang repco and they have a 520CCA century battery with 3 year warranty for $161 - cant really go wrong. Has to be better than the factory one.
Factory 380 battery is 600CCA, and most consider that to be a minimum, especially with auto trans.
Better to spend a few $ more on an Optima 800CCA.
chrisv
24-11-2010, 02:07 PM
Factory 380 battery is 600CCA, and most consider that to be a minimum, especially with auto trans.
Better to spend a few $ more on an Optima 800CCA.
Agreed. Dont go less than than the recommended 600CCA. False economy.
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