2004 Evo 8 MR, dash fuse keeps blowing. It's a 7.5 amp fuse, replaced it with a 10 amp and it still blew. I'm gonna take the dash out and check the connection on the back of the cluster on Saturday, but any other ideas? Nothing new has been installed and it doesn't blow straight away, like today the 10 amp fuse blew after driving for about 15 mins.

Any ideas?

Cheers.

what about the fuse that controls the internal lights and stuff? Might have a burnt tip or a defect in some way, thats only a guess for me im not the best with electronics.. haha lets us know how you go :)

If the fuse is blowing, even with a bigger ampage, it means whatever you have on the circuit is pulling too much current. If you haven't added anything lately (cigarette lighter adapters are most common i know of, people plugging in laptops etc.), then it has to be short somewhere in the wiring. Check the plugs on the back of the dash and make sure there's no chance of any of them touching.

Disconnect all the devices controlled by that fuse and reconnect one at a time until a smaller amp fuse blows.

Or disconnect the battery and place a multimeter from ground to the cold side of teh fuse and watch the resistance change as you eliminate the load devices on the circuit.

Or as a last resort as we sometimes do in high voltage monitors....put in a damn big fuse and blow the short circuit out...but watch out for a melted loom.

too much felt under the dash to stop squeaks which are holding wires out of place and making them touch?

Well, I ended up putting a 20A fuse in which also blew and something smelled burnt.

Alternator is dead. Massive mission getting home.

recently i had a customer who replaced a 10A brake light fuse with a 20A on his 2008 Hi-Ace (petrol)..... anyway the final bill came to just shy of $3K, due to 3*burnt ecu's, burnt throttle pedal sensor, and charcoal chicken wiring loom replacement.

best tool for finding a short is made using a blown fuse that is bridged by a headlight globe.... limits current to about 5A and glows brighter when there is a short

I was going to say, don't replace a fuse with a higher rated one. The wiring running from that fuse might not be rated higher than the fuse, so in effect you turn the wire into the fuse.
Unfortunately wires don't 'break' like a fuse, they melt and catch fire - the Hi-Ace could have been burnt to the ground, it was somewhat lucky.

We should always keep the $1 fuse as the weakest link in an electrical system, that's what it's designed for.

I hope you're even luckier with yours, Disciple.

What Oggy said, he just said it better and more briefly than I.

It's often a pain tracing what makes fuses blow, but detective work is better than melting the loom out of a car and having to deal with the aftermath of that.

I've melted something, but the alternator was already on the way out. The battery went flat last week or so and I recharged it, but didn't even think the alternator may have been to blame. The battery got me to work, but only half way home. Had to get the family to come bail me out at 10pm and it took us 2 hours to drive about 5km constantly stopping to recharge the battery with a small power pack. Driving with only parkers on is not fun, I can tell you.

Looks like I might be able to get an alternator today - Can you believe they're $1400 trade price from Mitsubishi? Needless to say I'll get an aftermarket one. Apparently they're a pain in the ass to change on these cars, so looks like I've got a lot of fun ahead of me tomorrow.

I don't know if this has anything to do with the fuse blowing, or what other damage I've done now by using the 20A fuse. I'll replace the alternator and go from there.

Cheers for the replies guys.

Using the 20a Fuse in place of a 7.5 is about the most insane thing I have read on these forums for such a long time, you are lucky the car did not burn to the ground

The proper option would be to work out what the particular curcuit does and then trace back, even disconnect items off that curcuit and then you will find the culprit. Here is to hoping you have not burt out anything expensive as this could turn out to be a very expensive Christmas for you

Well, I ended up putting a 20A fuse in which also blew and something smelled burnt.

.

Have you found where the burning came from?

Came from somewhere under the bonnet, towards the firewall, kinda behind the injector rail. No idea what it's done, but the car still drives so it's nothing major like the ECU or anything.

Can you get wiring diagrams off the EVO Forums (Fora?), like the spiffy PDF's we are so lucky to have for 3rd Gens? That'd be a big help.

You may be able to trace by distorted or scorched-looking wiring insulation. Did the car drive OK with that fuse blown - was it just dash lights and gauges? Cluster only, or whole dash? etc etc.

EDIT: Unless you desperately need the car, I'd be looking to repair the alternator - if its just a regulator pack, or brushes, should be heaps cheaper than an extra altrenator.

Can you get wiring diagrams off the EVO Forums (Fora?), like the spiffy PDF's we are so lucky to have for 3rd Gens? That'd be a big help.

You may be able to trace by distorted or scorched-looking wiring insulation. Did the car drive OK with that fuse blown - was it just dash lights and gauges? Cluster only, or whole dash? etc etc.

I do have the full wiring diagram. Car drove fine with the blown fuse. The speedo, revometer, fuel guage and temp guage didn't work, neither did the LCD KM and trip computer display. The power windows didn't work either, but they worked when I locked the car (press and hold to wind up all the windows) The open door light on the dash worked though.

Last night driving home, before the battery died, the stereo gave out too.

Came from somewhere under the bonnet, towards the firewall, kinda behind the injector rail. No idea what it's done, but the car still drives so it's nothing major like the ECU or anything.


sound system an aftermarket unit?

sound system an aftermarket unit?

Yes it is. I did think of this as a culprit, but it's been in there for years with no problems?

Gonna get the alternator refurbished, then go from there on the other problem of the fuse continually blowing. Got a local guy who's an auto electrician and also happens to be an Evo owner.

Re the stereo, low battery may cause it to switch off. This happened to me once when the alternator packed it in.

Re the stereo, low battery may cause it to switch off. This happened to me once when the alternator packed it in.

Yeah, I figured as much. Scared the shit outa me, lol.

Thanks for the help Oggy, Blackstar and Elwyn. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Don't think I'll be putting any 20A fuses into 7.5A plugs anymore, lol.

I'm just curious..what did the legend on the fuse cover say as to what circuits that the offending fuse controls?

I'm just curious..what did the legend on the fuse cover say as to what circuits that the offending fuse controls?


I was wondering the same thing, why would the alternator get fried to??? But I hope there isn't a big melted mess behind the dash :( Who knows when you put a bigger fuse in place of the blown one :)

if smoke came from the bonnet then perhaps it was an ignition fuse, and the wiring burned so bad it shorted out the alternator regulator wiring.... gotta love modern day wiring harnesses with their tightly packed super thin wires that service multiple components

Yeah, I figured as much. Scared the shit outa me, lol.

Thanks for the help Oggy, Blackstar and Elwyn. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Don't think I'll be putting any 20A fuses into 7.5A plugs anymore, lol.

Well.....we all have to start somewhere with electrics. It's never usually a fun introduction into how the "fuse" works though lol
Few hours of pulling things apart and I reckon you'll find it no worries....Mercedes Vito vans had this problem where the dash loom was just flopping around behind the dash and wires ended up getting chopped on a random piece of metal.....

Alternator shouldnt cost more then a few hundy to get refurbed......Reg probably crapped itself so make sure its a total overhaul...

good luck dudeman.

Put the alternator back in today (WHAT A ****ING MISSION) and put the rest of the bits back together. Put a voltmeter on the battery after I started the car, and the battery still isn't charging, and it's still blowing the dash fuse. Gonna take the car to the auto electrician on Thursday now and see what's what.

Best wishes. At least the auto-sparky has an Evo , so might know a thing or two about your beast. If he didn't already have an Evo, I'd be a bit worried my wallet would get raped for owning a cool car.

While there are some members in here who are excellent spanner-swingers, and some with really good insight into tracking their cars and handling/suspension etc - there comes a time, I reckon, where it is worth getting a pro involved.

I'd be interested to know what the problem turns out to be. We had auto-trans wiring in a first-gen Magna fry itself once - melted into other wires under the front seat on its way to the "power/econ" switch, or the selector Overdrive switch.......... we never could work out what went wrong, and when melty wires renewed it never acted-up again. Fingers crossed for Thursday!

Best wishes. At least the auto-sparky has an Evo , so might know a thing or two about your beast. If he didn't already have an Evo, I'd be a bit worried my wallet would get raped for owning a cool car.

While there are some members in here who are excellent spanner-swingers, and some with really good insight into tracking their cars and handling/suspension etc - there comes a time, I reckon, where it is worth getting a pro involved.

I'd be interested to know what the problem turns out to be. We had auto-trans wiring in a first-gen Magna fry itself once - melted into other wires under the front seat on its way to the "power/econ" switch, or the selector Overdrive switch.......... we never could work out what went wrong, and when melty wires renewed it never acted-up again. Fingers crossed for Thursday!

It'll get fixed whatever the problem is. It won't be anything serious.

Part from a melted wiring harness lol But hope you get sorted because this sound like a awesome car :) Hopeful it works ok to get out to an event :D

I'm just curious..what did the legend on the fuse cover say as to what circuits that the offending fuse controls?

It's the symbol for the dash.

Does your stereo work now? It may have been tapped into the power supply which also powers your dash etc and may have shorted somewhere?

Does your stereo work now? It may have been tapped into the power supply which also powers your dash etc and may have shorted somewhere?

That's for the auto electrician to figure out now. Unfortunately I know very little about auto electrics.

I also go with the theory of the sound system...anything non standard done by after market installers is always not as durable as factory fit.

They would have two 12v sources for the stereo...the switched by ignition and the always live to retain radio stations etc.

I have had a similar problem just fixed. After 3 years of trouble free motoring the Magna kept blowing the parker and blinker light fuse. Took it to Mitsub(useless) twice while it was still under warranty they seem to temporialy fix the problem. I have the factory stereo, but the previous owner of the magna was the NSW Police. As soon as the auto electrican was told this he said the short is behind the dash, they are very "carefree" puting things back together. The cause was the wiring to the hazard light switch, it had been "F%@in shoved" (his words) in against a metal frame and had happily rubbed away over 3 years hence causing the intermittant fault.
Perhaps you may have a similar problem where a wire is touching or rubbed against a frame or something causing the short?? Just a thought.

Well, I ended up putting a 20A fuse in which also blew and something smelled burnt.

Alternator is dead. Massive mission getting home.

Hmmm, try not to put bigger fuses in. There's a specific sized fuse in place for a reason, if a little too much power/current goes to one place it overcomes the fuse and the fuse blows to prevent damage to your hardware. If you put a bigger one in and let that power through, it will end up frying your circuits that are on that fuse.

Common example is when someones headlight fuse blows. They then put a bigger fuse on, then their headlights blow :O

I have had a similar problem just fixed. After 3 years of trouble free motoring the Magna kept blowing the parker and blinker light fuse. Took it to Mitsub(useless) twice while it was still under warranty they seem to temporialy fix the problem. I have the factory stereo, but the previous owner of the magna was the NSW Police. As soon as the auto electrican was told this he said the short is behind the dash, they are very "carefree" puting things back together. The cause was the wiring to the hazard light switch, it had been "F%@in shoved" (his words) in against a metal frame and had happily rubbed away over 3 years hence causing the intermittant fault.
Perhaps you may have a similar problem where a wire is touching or rubbed against a frame or something causing the short?? Just a thought.


Cheers for this, mate. I dropped the car off this morning, so we'll see what happens. This kinda sounds feasible because my car has a non factory dash (white Ralliart dash cluster) Which was put in well before I bought the car (possibly in Japan) It's possible there are some wires that have done a similar thing to yours and rubbed away over time.


Hmmm, try not to put bigger fuses in. There's a specific sized fuse in place for a reason, if a little too much power/current goes to one place it overcomes the fuse and the fuse blows to prevent damage to your hardware. If you put a bigger one in and let that power through, it will end up frying your circuits that are on that fuse.

Common example is when someones headlight fuse blows. They then put a bigger fuse on, then their headlights blow :O

I did know this prior to doing it, unfortunately I had my man brain in at the time and did a silly thing. With any luck I haven't done much damage, but either way it's only gonna cost money to fix it. :)

Best of luck finding the issue.

When in Adelaide for MMX, the wiring for my Varex melted to the exhaust, shorting it (reading 8v when trying to activate it)


Best bit? The 10A fuse it shipped with, not blowing :P

how did you go with this Disciple?

how did you go with this Disciple?

It's still at the auto electricians. He got the dash out and started looking, then had to go to Melbourne for Christmas with his family.

Might be another couple weeks before I get it back.

Turned out to be the speed sensor ontop of the gearbox was earthing out against the gearbox itself. New one is $105. Might have to wait for a new one from Japan which will take 2 weeks unless I can get a second hand one from NA Autosports in Brisbane.

Edit: NA Autosports have one, so I'll have my car back this Saturday! Woohoo!

Turned out to be the speed sensor ontop of the gearbox was earthing out against the gearbox itself. New one is $105. Might have to wait for a new one from Japan which will take 2 weeks unless I can get a second hand one from NA Autosports in Brisbane.

Edit: NA Autosports have one, so I'll have my car back this Saturday! Woohoo!
Sensational! Strange the sensor has shat itself though - wouldn't be a common fault by any means - let's hope it's smooth sailing from here on

;1353052']Sensational! Strange the sensor has shat itself though - wouldn't be a common fault by any means - let's hope it's smooth sailing from here on

Yeah, kind of a strange one. NA Autosports had new ones sitting on the shelf, so can't be terribly uncommon, although I'm sure faults are more common with his rally customers.

Yeah, kind of a strange one. NA Autosports had new ones sitting on the shelf, so can't be terribly uncommon, although I'm sure faults are more common with his rally customers.


Any chance someone may have been a bit careless during your rebuild?

Any chance someone may have been a bit careless during your rebuild?

It's entirely possible someone knocked it and didn't even notice.

It's entirely possible someone knocked it and didn't even notice.

I would blame this guy he looks dodgy as

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/7527/evobuild4.jpg


HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I would say Mecha lol

Makes sense

I would blame this guy he looks dodgy as

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/7527/evobuild4.jpg


HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

What's wrong with this picture?

He's not pedalling hard enough! (Flintstone referance)

:bowrofl:

Won't get the car back till later this week now. Because of the floods, the part is taking longer to get here.

Worst looking mitsubishi engine I've ever seen. :D

This is the moment of the engine stroke is in the closed intake and open exhaust phase...lol

;1355653']Worst looking mitsubishi engine I've ever seen. :D

That particular model of engine was very underpowered (1 HP) and ran predominantly on beer.

That particular model of engine was very underpowered (1 HP) and ran predominantly on beer.

Looks like it'd produce more harmful gasses out the rear end then the stock 4cyl aswell.

Perfomance mods include a stick, a pice of cake and string. This was wave in front of the "engine" this inturn make it go faster lol

does this engine have EGR?

Where were all these jokes when the photo was first posted up? :roll:

Where were all these jokes when the photo was first posted up? :roll:

Yeah but it's only funny now that stuff has gone wrong, we can trace the problem back for you :P

;1355787']Yeah but it's only funny now that stuff has gone wrong, we can trace the problem back for you :P

Damn that flinstones power. lol.

Where were all these jokes when the photo was first posted up? :roll:

Just cause you drive power an evo doesn't mean you need to mention it every 5 mins sheesh!

:P lol

Got my car back today. Oh yeah baby! :D

:bowrofl:

Won't get the car back till later this week now. Because of the floods, the part is taking longer to get here.

Should have checked compatibility with other models. Mits love reusing parts... Lancer one may have fit, I had a speed sensor die on my box - Easy as to replace, takes 5 mins.

Got my car back today. Oh yeah baby! :D

Loving it again? ;)

Should have checked compatibility with other models. Mits love reusing parts... Lancer one may have fit, I had a speed sensor die on my box - Easy as to replace, takes 5 mins.

Yeah, we checked compatability. The earlier Evos use the same part, Evo 6 onward. Standard Lancer part was different. To get access to it, all the upper intercooler piping had to come off, as did the intake.


Loving it again? ;)

Hell yeah! ****ing thing is so insanely fast. Flatten it in second and in about 3 seconds you're doing 110km/h and it's time to hit 3rd. :D :D

Yeah, we checked compatability. The earlier Evos use the same part, Evo 6 onward. Standard Lancer part was different. To get access to it, all the upper intercooler piping had to come off, as did the intake.

Pretty sure the speedo sensors may be the same just a different gear on them... i know on some Evo i used a Magna sensor but swapped the gears over (simple clip and the gear and shaft come out the sensor)