Hi All,

Hoping someone can help...

I'm doing the head gaskets on the good ladies TF 3.0 ltr v6 and need to know...
1. Head bolt torque specs
2, New head gaskets have red lines of 'stuff' along edge and around holes on one side only. I'm assuming the red stuff should face upwards so adds extra sealing/bonding to head. Would I be correct in assuming this?

Any help appreciated.

thanks in advance,

Russell
Melbourne.

Hi All,

Well the head gaskets only go on one way... I should have looks forst..! so that problem solved.

If anyone has a TF Manual, I'd really appreciate head bolt torque settings please....?

Hi and welcome

Please tell me you are not using aftermarket composite gaskets and you are using the genuine gaskets

If you DL the manual from the various links around the forum, the torque specs for everything is in there, there is the TH with the 3.0 listed in there as well

Hi All,

Hoping someone can help...

I'm doing the head gaskets on the good ladies TF 3.0 ltr v6 and need to know...
1. Head bolt torque specs
2, New head gaskets have red lines of 'stuff' along edge and around holes on one side only. I'm assuming the red stuff should face upwards so adds extra sealing/bonding to head. Would I be correct in assuming this?

Any help appreciated.

thanks in advance,

Russell
Melbourne.

Definitely get the manual, very handy to have for all occasions.

http://www.lisho.net/?page_id=3

Not trying to tell you how to suck eggs, but make sure the head has been surfaced or at least checked for warpage and clean. Is the head all good, valves, valve seals?

Did you consider replacing all that other lovely stuff like, water pump, idler and tension pulleys, tensioner, timing belt, crank and camshaft seals since you've gone to all this trouble? Just a thought.

Do the head bolts in sequence and gradually in 3 stages as per the manual.

1. Tighten the cylinder head bolts using the special tool
in the sequence shown. Each bolt should be tightened
in two to three steps, torquing progressively. Tighten to
the specified torque in the final sequence.

While you got the torque wrench out, use it on the exhaust manifold studs and the intake bolts and nuts. No joy in snapping off an exhaust stud or stripping a thread.

Head bolts = 108 Nm
Nuts on exhaust manifold = 49 Nm
Plenum to manifold bolts, both long and short = 17 Nm

Double check these numbers in the manual.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Hi All,

Many thanks for your replies.

I'm doing the head gaskets as the rear one was leaking oil down back of engine, on a trip/ warm day it would smoke and stink.....and of course empty the engine over time.

I have had the heads skimmed, new valve stem seals, and seats leak tested. Car was running sweetly so didn't think they would be a problem.

While I'm there I've done the water pump, all belts, seals, o’rings and pullies as suggested.

I've tried down loading the manual 3 times now, no idea why but it stalls at around 10% complete. Hence my questions.

And yes they are composite gaskets. I haven't had any issue with these on other cars, is there a known reliability issue? the originals leaked at 120ks... and with a tad off the heads, composite thickness will take up some.. The dowels locate the head and gaskets perfectly so I shouldn't get any movement to cause leaks..?....Am I on the wrong track?

Thanks to all again, and to Madmax for the spec's.

Regards,
Russell.

I would almost bet my last $$ that the head gaskets were not what was leaking here, I have had so many of these cars brought to me with suspected head gaskets blown on the rear bank only problem is that these gaskets do not just blow due to the construction of these gaskets. What really happens is the rocker cover breathers and the PCV get blocked, especially on the lower mileage older engines due to the fact that they do not do many miles. The result is a leak from the rear cam seal which runs down the back of the head and looks like a blown head gasket

As I said, this is common and have seen many a place remove a head off a car and then end up confused when they see the metal gasket still sitting there in perfect condition

Hi MadMagna,

You are right about the gasket, no obvious blown out section around oil gallery, but definite burnt oil. I must agree I am not confident this will fix the issue after seeing gasket, but there are no other signs of other oil leaks that would attribute to the amount of oil below the exhaust manifold. The heads once off were surprisingly clean and the cam seals had no excessive oil about them either. I remain optimistic the head gaskets will solve this issue... Although I don't want to do this job again, these engines/cars are terrific to work on compared to Rangie’s which I'm used to.

And thanks for the tip about cleaning the PCV bits...

regards,
Russell

OH...and I tried the Manual download again during these posts and it worked!! in 22 mins. Apologies to you all, and again thanks for your prompt assistance.

regards,
Russell,
Blackburn, Melbourne.

Clean the PCV and also clean the inside of the rocker covers

If yo have not gone to far yet, would not be too late to put in a 3.5

Also, the rear cam seal will not be an obvious leak as the oil will run straight out the back and is gone, will not be a real messy leak inside the covers that one

Have a look at the "O" ring on the distributor and see if oil has been leaking there. Its in a perfect place for oil to leak and be blown back onto the exhaust system of the rear bank.