Ok here is what im running: 3.5 litre, Converted to manual (using auto ecu), rotrex supercharger kit using 85mm pully (Up To 8-9psi?), Haltech Interceptor (PiggyBack), 390cc Injectors, Wideband O2 sensor kit with a narrowband output for ecu, Sard Fuel Pressure reg.

I think i have most bases covered, i can monitor and log the AF ratio using my display for my wideband also i have an open port cable and evoscan etc... What needs to be modified (values Changed??) so the ecu will accept boost ? it starts, idles and runs fine until it gets boost then it leans out to dangerous levels and trips the check engine light. My Scanner indicates air flow meter error and inlet air temp error so my guess is the airflow value (Hz) exceeds the ecus set values and automatically leans out. Im still only a begginer in FI tuning and any help would be appreciated!

Also is a set of walker extractors into a 2 1/4" intermediate into 2 1/2" rear exhaust a restriction on this application ?

You need a MAP sensor input to tell the ecu to richen the mixture.

Ahh yeah that makes sense, So a map sensor wired into the haltech should do the trick ?

Yep the ecu needs to know when you are on boost so it can compensate.

ok i shall add a 2 bar map sensor to my shopping list and see where that gets me, thanks for the info!

for reference - my Sprintex with 7PSI blower, had a 3bar map sensor in the kit.

you will prolly need a higher sensor than 2bar

oh yep thanks for that. i might look for a 3 bar sensor then that way it gives me a little to play with if i ever want to increase the boost

I paid about 180bucks for a 3bar sensor for mine when I thought it was dead (wasnt connected correctly / had no power to it...) Sprintex use a GM / Holden part for the kit too, could probably easily get cheaper than that.
I was in a hurry when I got mine so didnt really shop around.

Im sort of in a hurry to get mine so as soon as i find one to do the job ill be getting it, are they pretty much a universal thing just need to be wired and voltage values set correctly in the piggyback ?

lol you do realise that 1 bar is roughly 1 atmosphere which is about 14.7 psi?

But yeah a 3 bar sensor is pretty standard.

yeah i was under the impression that a 2 bar map sensor will be fine up until 15 odd psi? iv noticed they advertise these numbers differently i have found a few 2 bar sensors that measure 1 bar equivalent in vacuum then 1 bar of boost equaling 2 bar, on the other hand i have seen them advertised as a 2 bar sensor that measures 2 bar of boost which is 30 odd psi

I think you are running a dangerous amount of boost for probably stock internals.

Your engine will probably blow over 6 psi ...most certainly do at 9 psi.

You should get some professional tuning help for your first one...and second...and third....

unless it's a hack car that is a sacrificial lamb...

Im in the process of building another engine with forged internals so im pretty much just seeing how far i can push the stock engine before it gives up,

If i was worried about destroying it i wouldnt have supercharged an engine with 230k on the clock

Map sensor will have a 12V feed, an earth, and a 5V signal going to the ECU. Dead easy to wire up.

And yeah, something will go bang very soon.

After looking into it i dont think the interceptor will be able to do the job after all, might be time to sell it and go for a full aftermarket ecu

hey TT TJ, you wouldnt have the wiring diagram for the haltech interceptor? I have one on the way, and I'd prefer to install myself, instead of paying for somebody to install...


Thanks!!

You can download it from haltechs website i think, i installed mine myself but the ecu is a bit tricky to get to on the magna!

I've already tried looking, cant find shit....

come to think of it mine come with a wiring diagram but thats long gone sorry

ok more questions for you cluey members

Im a little confused as to what happens to the BEM and so forth if i go full aftermarket ecu, what im saying is if i hack up the ecu wires to run into the aftermarket ecu will the BEM then not function ? what factory features will i loose ? how will the car react to not having all the factory ecu wires connected ?

Also has anyone had anything to do with the megasquirt ECU as thats what i have in mind

After looking into it i dont think the interceptor will be able to do the job after all, might be time to sell it and go for a full aftermarket ecu

I'm curious as to what gives you this idea?

The Sprintex charger setup is usually done with an SMT-6 interceptor, and the Raptor also with an interceptor. The Haltech interceptors should have similar capability to the SMT-6, as far as I can tell.

I presume that you have configured the Haltech to properly handle the Mitsubishi MAF (which is a Karman Vortex type) - the symptoms you reported suggest to me that the MAF signal isn't being adjusted correctly (ie MAF frequency isn't increasing as air input increases).

Last time I looked at the Haltech I thought they had a basic interceptor configuration (called a bare or blank map?) for a 6G72 Magna but maybe not a 6G74; these would have been on the included CD if bought new.

It might be worth a call to Haltech anyway, especially if you don't have the CD.

I have the base map loaded for a 6g74 and still i cant tune it to fuel properly when its coming on boost

I have the base map loaded for a 6g74 and still i cant tune it to fuel properly when its coming on boost

Given you state in the first post that you're new to FI tuning, then one resource worth perusing is Merlin's EVO 7-8-9 Tuning Guide (http://evoecu.logic.net/mirror/merlin/Merlins%20EcuFlash%20EVO%207-8-9%20TUNING%20GUIDE-V1.7a.pdf). Note that this is reasonably particular to EVOs (& turbocharging rather than supercharging) and geared towards working with ECUFlash and the stock ECU, but I nonetheless found it informative.

You should note that the piggyback has very limited control of fueling when the stock ECU is in closed loop mode; although boost should be keep the ECU in open loop mode without much trouble.

Is your MAF before or after the supercharger? I ask because the intake air temperature sensor is part of the MAF assembly, and your temperature error would seem to correlate with the output of the charger rather than the input...

I note that you have a wideband with a narrowband simulated signal - which WB controller? If you can change the behaviour of the narrowband simulation, I would try setting it to a richer profile to see whether you get any better response (though this will only come into play with a warmed up engine, when the ECU is in closed loop mode). However, after doing a lot of reading, I have come to the conclusion that many of the wideband controllers with simulated narrowband signals might have a latency problem - because of the method commonly used to generate the simulated narrowband signal there seems to be a lag in the response which might contribute to poor AFR control in closed loop mode. At least setting it to favour a rich mixture is a move in the direction of safety.

Your larger injectors may also be confusing the stock ECU - if logging shows either the idle or mid long term fuel trim equal to either +25 or -25, the fueling is maxed out as far as the stock ECU is concerned. On cold start up, with your injectors being ~40% larger than stock, you will be running very rich. Adjusting the simulated narrowband signal to the rich side might also help bring your fuel trims back within acceptable limits too.

Is your Evoscan cable capable of reading/reflashing the ROM? If so, I'd be interested in a copy - from what I've learnt so far I might be able to find the injector scaling value and the main fuel and ignition maps, and probably the injector latency compensation table, in a TJ ECU.

Okay Maf is after the supercharger and it reads temps upwards of 60 degrees at certain revs!

I am able to read and reflash the ECU, I have a HEX file i pulled from the ecu id be happy to send to you if you think you may be able to do something with it, as i havent figured out how to read and modify the file yet

Okay Maf is after the supercharger and it reads temps upwards of 60 degrees at certain revs!

Hopefully someone else who has some experience with aftermarket boost can comment on the success or otherwise of that arrangement. My gut instinct (not worth much) is that you'll struggle to tune the car with any ECU setup that uses the MAF in that arrangement, as I suspect that its airflow calibration relies on its input side being at atmospheric pressure.

I haven't seen a lot of info about the actual configuration of supercharger setups other than the Sprintex (which definitely has the MAF before the charger), but you might find some by searching for "Raptor" as I can think of at least 2 cars that had Raptor superchargers fitted (Apricot Rocket & EZ-Boy) and 2 more with fitting in progress (perry & lenda). I believe all 4 of these are using piggybacks, and Apricot Rocket's and EZ-Boy's cars didn't seem to have these sorts of tuning problems.

I'm not surprised you're getting IAT errors with temps like that, which also further distort the MAF calibration.


I am able to read and reflash the ECU, I have a HEX file i pulled from the ecu id be happy to send to you if you think you may be able to do something with it, as i havent figured out how to read and modify the file yet

I'd be happy to look, but can't promise a quick turnaround :( Some Xmas break entertainment would be welcome though...

I'm reasonably confident of finding the following info (for a 6G74 at least, in a TJ or later):
- fuel map
- ignition map
- injector scaling
- injector latency

There are a couple of other items that I might be able to find which might also be useful:
- IAT ignition timing compensation
- closed loop load threshold

There are lots of tables in the ROMs I've collected, but determining what many of them are for is the headache.

is maybe the fact that the maf is on the pressure side the problem? Mine and as far as i know other raptor kits are straight after the air filter before the supercharger.

Okay Maf is after the supercharger and it reads temps upwards of 60 degrees at certain revs!

I am able to read and reflash the ECU, I have a HEX file i pulled from the ecu id be happy to send to you if you think you may be able to do something with it, as i havent figured out how to read and modify the file yet

like this?
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/injector.jpg

Thanks for all the info so far!

Well things have improved since i relocated the maf to the intake side of the supercharger no more engine light and its not leaning out as bad but its still not acceptable its got me stumped! also i havnt got a surge valve yet so the car is a bit of a pig at slow speeds

the car use to take a min or two to sort out its idle but now its up and down all the time but im guessing it needs time to readjust

Also can anyone explain how to read the rom (look at the maps) using ecu flash ?

Also can anyone explain how to read the rom (look at the maps) using ecu flash ?

You need an XML file which tells ECU Flash where to find the maps. Each ROM image has a version number embedded into it, which is what ECUFlash uses to select the XML file. Someone has to create the XML file from the ROM (which was what I planned to do if I got a copy of yours).

One of the headaches is that different ROM versions can have some info in different places, and some have different capabilities/features. While most of the basic stuff is often in the same location (fuel & ignition maps, & injector scaling/latency compensation for example), other interesting bits like the open loop thresholds and IAT timing compensation seem to move around. I've only looked at AWD ROMs to this point, and have 3 different versions - the TL & TW ROMs have code differences but the tables are pretty much identical; the TJ ROM has the main tables in the same locations, but table axis definitions are in different locations and I'm still looking for several tables I've found in the TL/TW ROMs - to say nothing of the code differences.

Well things have improved since i relocated the maf to the intake side of the supercharger no more engine light and its not leaning out as bad but its still not acceptable its got me stumped! also i havnt got a surge valve yet so the car is a bit of a pig at slow speeds

I'm glad things have improved! To make progress you'll probably need to do some logging of info from the stock ECU, as well as from your wideband (Evoscan, if you have it, can log info from most of the widebands at the same time as logging from the stock ECU).


the car use to take a min or two to sort out its idle but now its up and down all the time but im guessing it needs time to readjust

At a minimum, let it idle for 15 minutes to let the stock ECU try and establish an idle long term fuel trim (neutralise the piggyback for this), and then log the idle fuel trims and your wideband AFR. You will probably find that the idle trim is pegged at 25 (or -25). This is because you have larger injectors. On the face of it, your larger injectors should be forcing the ECU to run the engine rich as it doesn't have enough adjustment to bring the mixture to stoich. You should also plot the AFRs to see whether you're getting the expected oscillation about stoich - don't rely on gauges or displays, as their response time can distort the interpretation.

If you still have the original 6G74 injectors, I would put them back in temporarily and see whether you can get it to idle more acceptably. If so, the injector performance may be complicating your situation. The Mitsubishi ECUs can report injector duty cycle, so you can monitor that to find out when the stock injectors run out of puff.

Do you have any latency information (or other specs, such as impedance) about the larger injectors you have? If you do, then the stock ECU's injector information can be updated which should also improve the situation.

Okay i think ill send you the ROM is there anyway i can upload it here or do i need to email it

In the meantime ill do some logging with evoscan and get some data on how things are running, ill try and find out more about the injectors i have too

My main concern still is the leaning out, even when i make a map that should drown it in fuel it still leans out after 1-2 psi

What you need to do is change the injector scaling in the ecu from the standard 313 to your new injector size of 390. also you need to change thhe clip on the air flow meter this is your main problem, a change to FF will do it. The Melco ecu you is a very capable unit you just need understand it. Hope this is of help.

Cheers Dave

what clip are you talking about i dont think iv come across it ?

Try TAFSMAX addresses 00357C to003587, Should be 12 sites stating at 750rpm and finishing at 7000.
I'm no expert just tring to help.

Cheers Dave

Okay i think ill send you the ROM is there anyway i can upload it here or do i need to email it

Email is simplest - my email address is available via my member's page.


In the meantime ill do some logging with evoscan and get some data on how things are running, ill try and find out more about the injectors i have too.

More than anything else, getting some indication of the injector latencies over the supply voltage range from 11V to 14V will make it easier to dial them in.


My main concern still is the leaning out, even when i make a map that should drown it in fuel it still leans out after 1-2 psi

Silly question maybe, but with the Haltech (as I read the manual) the map reflects a percentage change in fueling (or timing) - have you tried (very gingerly) setting the map in the opposite direction from zeroed? Just in case there's a sign inversion somewhere...

Even with a zeroed map in the Haltech, I would have expected your larger injectors to result in rich running anyway - unless there's something very unusual about the latency of the injectors.

Try TAFSMAX addresses 00357C to003587, Should be 12 sites stating at 750rpm and finishing at 7000.

I've found that table in the ROM images I have to hand, but I don't quite follow what you're suggesting (or what it will achieve). Are you suggesting that all 12 sites be set to FF?

I have an SKR modified ROM, and can see that that table has been changed compared to the stock ROM. Several values at the end of the table have been set to FF, and most of the other table values have been increased slightly. Other than knowing that it had been modified, and was RPM indexed, I hadn't worked out what it was for... so if you could clarify that it would be much appreciated!

Wytwun Steve has aready fixed your ecu, the standard ecu has maximum air flow limits for the air flow meter so if you increase the air flow of the engine past these limits the engine starts to run lean. changing the TAFSMAX at the higher rpm ranges lets the ecu adjust the fuel mixture at higher air flow than standard.

Hope that makes sense.

Cheers Dave

Wytwun Steve has aready fixed your ecu, the standard ecu has maximum air flow limits for the air flow meter so if you increase the air flow of the engine past these limits the engine starts to run lean. changing the TAFSMAX at the higher rpm ranges lets the ecu adjust the fuel mixture at higher air flow than standard.

Hope that makes sense.

Well that explanation certainly fits the symptoms the OP is experiencing. I'm just wondering why Steve would have set some values to FF (which I presume effectively means unlimited) and raised others by a couple of units (noting my ROM is for a NA car)?

I'm also curious whether the values in this table are the MAF signal frequency (for values other than FF)?

Many thanks for the info provided thus far.

Could anyone give me a rough step by step on how to change these values in the ecu hex file ? i have ecu flash and ecu edit

TT TJ,

if you log the value Air Flow Hz in Evoscan, along with RPM, AFR and calculated load, that should confirm that Dave TJ's suggestion will solve your problem (the calculated load should drop as the ECU leans out the mixture, without a matching change in air flow frequency).

Im pretty sure its safe to say thats my issue, i have numerous logs showing this seems to be the case, only question is it something ill be able to change myself ?

Once you have an XML definition for the ROM, ECUFlash makes it easy to edit the values. Even creating the XML definition file can be done in ECUFlash without much trouble. Unfortunately the hard part is identifying the addresses of the tables and any related axis definitions in the ROM file.

In this case, if you can email me your ROM file this afternoon, I can look at it and should have an XML file with the AFR and ignition maps, the injector scaling & latency compensation and the MAF table Dave TJ describes back to you tonight or tomorrow evening.

It has taken me a fair bit of reading over a period of months, and membership of several other forums, to get to the point I have, and there's still lots I don't understand...:nuts:

That sounds great ill send it to you right now

Thanks for your help!

I have made the required mods to the rom, but now i am unable read or right to my ecu

I only have an openport 1.3d cable without the flash connector but to read the ecu i just supplyed the flash wire with a 12v source and it worked

I have a 1.3U cable on the way then ill try and use ecuflash instead of the ecu read/write feture in evoscan unless anyone knows why it read from it last week but now (after changing no settings) it wont read or write ?

I only have an openport 1.3d cable without the flash connector but to read the ecu i just supplyed the flash wire with a 12v source and it worked

I have a 1.3U cable on the way then ill try and use ecuflash instead of the ecu read/write feture in evoscan unless anyone knows why it read from it last week but now (after changing no settings) it wont read or write ?

A not uncommon problem is the battery voltage being down a bit - apparently it doesn't take much of a voltage drop, and a few days without running can be enough. A battery charger or a few minutes of idling should get the battery voltage up enough to overcome this.

Still wont flash! i even hooked a mates car up to mine and had his running and it still wouldnt flash, the ecu just doesnt respond

I guess ill just wait and see how the 1.3U cable goes, im so close yet so far!

Still wont flash! i even hooked a mates car up to mine and had his running and it still wouldnt flash, the ecu just doesnt respond

I guess ill just wait and see how the 1.3U cable goes, im so close yet so far!

Have you perused the Evoscan forums? Flashing problems are not uncommon, so would be expect there to be some threads there.

Update,

My 1.3U cable turned up and now i can flash my ecu! I changed the top half of my tafsmax table to FF, also changed the injector scaling, I have increased the injector latency table by 40% and changed the fuel map drasticly

The fuel table is set to 8.0 AFR (In Attempt to enrichen the mixtures) in the 3/4 to WOT and above 3000 RPM area, yet when i go WOT from 1500RPM i get 11.6 - 12.1 boost comes on at 2000RPM and it still runs in those figures until i get 3-4 PSI (4500RPM) then after that as revs increase it goes as lean as 14.0 to 15.0

I have tried neutralizing the haltech resulting in it leaning out worse, I have run out of ideas! i want to get it professionally tuned but i have more to add like the FMI i have hanging off the front of the car and a bigger exhaust

My 1.3U cable turned up and now i can flash my ecu! I changed the top half of my tafsmax table to FF, also changed the injector scaling, I have increased the injector latency table by 40% and changed the fuel map drasticly

The fuel table is set to 8.0 AFR (In Attempt to enrichen the mixtures) in the 3/4 to WOT and above 3000 RPM area, yet when i go WOT from 1500RPM i get 11.6 - 12.1 boost comes on at 2000RPM and it still runs in those figures until i get 3-4 PSI (4500RPM) then after that as revs increase it goes as lean as 14.0 to 15.0

I have tried neutralizing the haltech resulting in it leaning out worse, I have run out of ideas! i want to get it professionally tuned but i have more to add like the FMI i have hanging off the front of the car and a bigger exhaust

Glad to hear you're in business for reflashing! :woot:

If you had a professional tuner in mind, it may worth talking to him anyway (even paying for some consulting time to review logs etc) - if he knows his onions, things might well go much better with his advice & involvement.

I'm not sure such a large increase in injector latency is a good idea without a good source of info on the actual properties of your injectors (see below for related comments on dialing injectors in), but this matters most at idle (not where your problem is...). You also probably want to keep the injector scaling lower (richer) rather than higher (leaner): actual flow rate / 1.15 is the rule of thumb given in Merlin's Evo Tuning Guide as a starting point (ie ~340 for your 390cc/min injectors).

If you have a log of RPM, ECU load, TPS value, intake manufold absolute pressure and temperature (from downstream of the charger) and MAF frequency and temperature (ECU IAT), that might provide a clue - I'm wondering about the MAF calibration, which would require comparing the air mass reported by the MAF compared to the air mass actually being fed into the engine.

Just in case closed loop operation is an issue, in the ROM definition file I sent you there are two maps named "Open Loop Load #1" and "Open Loop Load #2". More research since I sent you the definition suggests they're the TPS related open loop maps not the ECU load related open loop maps I originally thought. Anyway, setting all the values in both maps to 0 should keep the ECU in open loop mode at all times.

If you do this, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery after reflashing the ECU, to force a complete reset of the fuel trims. That way they can't interfere with the operation of the fuel map and further cloud the issue.

To make further work easier, I'd suggest that you really need your injectors dialed in properly. This requires closed loop operation, as per the procedures documented in Merlin's Evo Tuning Guide. I believe you probably have the car to a sufficiently runnable state now that, with care, you could undertake the injector dial-in process if its drivable.

Logs of ECU load vs RPM will also be useful so that the load axes of the fuel and ignition maps can be appropriately rescaled. Pity there's only 12 slots there, which will mean a fairly coarse resolution, but there's sufficient blank space in the ROM for custom maps if necessary.

TT TJ, Have you upgraded the fuel pump? Can't remember if you had, just a thought.

Cheers Dave

Following on from Dave TJ's query about the fuel pump (which I can't see a mention of in your first post; just mention of a Sard FPR), if you are running out of fuel your logs might give a clue...

Unfortunately the one variable that would be nice to be able to log via the ECU - fuel pressure - appears not to be supported even in the EVO 7-9 ECUs I've poked into. :nuts:

So the only indirect observation of this you could make, if you can't log it some other way (ie if your Haltech can log it for you with the right sensor/wiring), is to confirm that the injector pulse width (or duty cycle) continues to increase with load even though the W/B is reporting the mixture leaning out.

I have ordered a walbro 225LPH unit so ill see how that goes hopefully that sorts it, i see no drops in injector pulse width so fingers crossed,

Update,

As expected the engine is dying! a few weeks ago a mate was following me in his wrx and overtook me and i got a bit excited and gave it a bit much the engine sorter made a clunk noise and started missing.
Turns out something broke like the commpression ring?? and squashed the plug causing it to miss fire, this also happened again to me yesterday so two cylinders now have 65PSI commpression. the car still runs fine though but its on its last legs

Also earlyer this afternoon i was turning in a carpark and my redbull can fell in the cup holder and spilled down the side of the centre console right into my haltech! the car stalled and i had to pull the haltech apart to clean all the redbull out it took me ages to get it going but now it seems fine (lets hope it makes it to powercruise in a few weeks!)

Okay fuel pump is in and problem is fixed! i am finally seeing the correct AFR that i set in the ecu

So i guess thats me sorted, just one more question. how come the bigger fuel pump made the car idle really bad first up? i thought changing the pump would have
no effect on idle as its only supplying fuel up to a set pressure by the regulator, any extra fuel the pump is supplying should return to the tank.

I'm thinking the air in the fuel line may have caused the first up idle problem, bit hard to tell.
Sounds like you've lost some pieces of the tops of the crowns from lean mixture detonation.
Glad the pump worked, time for another set of pistons.

Cheers Dave

Okay fuel pump is in and problem is fixed! i am finally seeing the correct AFR that i set in the ecu

That's excellent news! Are you able to effectively neutralise the Haltech and tune only on the stock ECU?

Update,

As expected the engine is dying! a few weeks ago a mate was following me in his wrx and overtook me and i got a bit excited and gave it a bit much the engine sorter made a clunk noise and started missing.
Turns out something broke like the commpression ring?? and squashed the plug causing it to miss fire, this also happened again to me yesterday so two cylinders now have 65PSI commpression. the car still runs fine though but its on its last legs

Also earlyer this afternoon i was turning in a carpark and my redbull can fell in the cup holder and spilled down the side of the centre console right into my haltech! the car stalled and i had to pull the haltech apart to clean all the redbull out it took me ages to get it going but now it seems fine (lets hope it makes it to powercruise in a few weeks!)

This is exactly the reason I mounted my ECU way out of harms way. That simple mistake could of set you back $$$$'s.
If you want to log fuel pressure, get an oil pressure gauge and sender unit and put the sender unit in your fuel line, probably some sort of custom made aluminum block that you can feed lines into. Alot of gauges these days you can use to log directly to a computer with (like the AEM's) so that might be worth it....

Update,

As expected the engine is dying! a few weeks ago a mate was following me in his wrx and overtook me and i got a bit excited and gave it a bit much the engine sorter made a clunk noise and started missing.
Turns out something broke like the commpression ring?? and squashed the plug causing it to miss fire, this also happened again to me yesterday so two cylinders now have 65PSI commpression. the car still runs fine though but its on its last legs






Stock internals and 9 psi...wooo hooo...did you get a thousand k's out of the engine?....lol

I have the haltech neutralized at the moment im only using it to adjust spark, the stock ecu is easy to tune when the AFR pretty much matchs the map. Its nice to finally feel that the supercharger wasnt a waste of money, i must admit its alot to pay for what you get though

I must say im immpressed at how much this engine has taken and for it to still be going, iv pretty much been using it as a test engine to get all the issues ironed out which i have now done so its time for another engine which doesnt work out to dear if you can fit it yourself.

Iv decided to build a forged bottom end and just use the heads off my current motor, building a complete motor is rather expensive, iv been looking at the forged pistons on 3SX.com they seem to be the cheapest even when you include shipping from america. Can anyone recommend any other place to source pistons and or rods ? i have ARP rod bolts and main bearing bolts just need head bolts

Oh and distance travelled so far is 2500KM lol iv done well over 900 on a dead cylinder and 100 or so on two dead cylinders
It still runs surprisingly well though

I have the haltech neutralized at the moment im only using it to adjust spark, the stock ecu is easy to tune when the AFR pretty much matchs the map. Its nice to finally feel that the supercharger wasnt a waste of money, i must admit its alot to pay for what you get though

I must say im immpressed at how much this engine has taken and for it to still be going, iv pretty much been using it as a test engine to get all the issues ironed out which i have now done so its time for another engine which doesnt work out to dear if you can fit it yourself.

Iv decided to build a forged bottom end and just use the heads off my current motor, building a complete motor is rather expensive, iv been looking at the forged pistons on 3SX.com they seem to be the cheapest even when you include shipping from america. Can anyone recommend any other place to source pistons and or rods ? i have ARP rod bolts and main bearing bolts just need head bolts


special piston services in melbourne.


see my 380 forged engine thread.....http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82608


mitsubishi sell head bolts...lol

Finally got my intercooler plumbed up today but lost 2-3 psi of boost, it seems crisper and should help to prevent more engine damage hopefully lol

I have the haltech neutralized at the moment im only using it to adjust spark, the stock ecu is easy to tune when the AFR pretty much matchs the map.

With some logs to check what sort of ECU load numbers you're getting, it should be possible to re-scale the load axis on the fuel and ignition maps if needed. However if what you've got is working, perhaps best not to disturb it.

One other thing you might care to investigate is whether you can get a colder thermostat which might give you more tuning room. I'm lead to believe the stock thermostat nominally opens at 90C and one that opens closer to 75C might be more desirable.