To remove upper sump do I have to remove the Transfer Case?

All depends. I wouldn't think so, as the sump is part of the engine and the transfer case is part of the gearbox. However, the transfer case may get in the way of the sump bolts, in which case you may have to remove it to get access. The only way to tell is to get under the car with a torch and have a look. So really, we are waiting for you to tell us. Or someone who has done it, to chime in.

All depends. I wouldn't think so, as the sump is part of the engine and the transfer case is part of the gearbox. However, the transfer case may get in the way of the sump bolts, in which case you may have to remove it to get access. The only way to tell is to get under the car with a torch and have a look. So really, we are waiting for you to tell us. Or someone who has done it, to chime in.

Max, with all respect due, please only post if you have an answer that you are sure on, this case you are not and will just fill up threads with guesses

You will need to remove the case as there is about 2mm gap between the case and the sump, if even that.

You will also need a Torx 20 (I think from memory) as 2 of the bolts are Torx bolts near the case

Why do you want to remove the upper sump section, I am yet to see one of these leak and give issues

I was suggesting he have a look under his car and work it out for himself. Only logical to do so. But I will shut up now.

I was suggesting he have a look under his car and work it out for himself. Only logical to do so. But I will shut up now.

Again was not having a go but someone asks a question expecting a person how knows to give an answer, not just "have a look up under the car" as anyone can do this, perhaps the member wanted to know for sure before the car was lifted to do the job

One of the con rod bearings has packed it in. Want to take the cap off and have a look at the extent of the damage.
I'm hoping to replace the rod bearing by going in through the sump if the journal and con rod are ok.
Thanks for your information.

If you are sure that you have done a bearing, you will most likely need to at least linish the crank, and that is at the very min

Do you know what has caused this to happen, the 74 bottom ends are quite good when they are not boosted and this would be one of the first ones I have heard of doing this

If you decide to change the engine, I can assist in getting a FWD motor to bolt in or may be a good oppertunity to pop in a 380 engine