Ive noticed for a while now that when I go around corners fairly quickly the front left hand side of the car would make a loud crunching sound. Even coming off a roundabout would do it sometimes. Figured it was prob just the spring not on correctly and moving slightly (Even though from inspection, seemed ok). So was cleaning my 2 days ago when I noticed grease on my front left rim. Now ive just had a look behind the wheel and there is grease everywhere!! The cv boot is also split clean in half and I can see the shaft and the grease around it. :(

Now the car never made any clicking noises when turning, only crunched at high speed turns. Does this mean my cv joint is busted??!

If so will this (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-CV-JOINT-MITSUBISHI-MAGNA-TE-TF-4-CYL-V6-ABS-/370431801008?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563f74b6b0) (Ebay link to cv joint) be a good replacement? My Magna is a TF with ABS.
Really looking to spend as little as possible to get this fixed!!

there are drive shaft places that sell recod units, just swap the drive shaft over

"Really looking to spend as little as possible to get this fixed!!"

Too late for that! Now if you had kept an eye on the drive shaft boots, as a routine matter, and picked the problem up when the boot first split, you could have gotten away with a $15 DIY boot kit.

Once they get noisy like that, it means the joint is chewing itself up and is in need of replacement.

Easiest and most expensive option it to drive it (slowly) to a driveshaft shop and get a new one installed.
Cheaper options are a recon shaft or one from a wreckers, and swap it over yourself. Check the other side too while you are there. If one side goes the other is usually not far behind.

there are drive shaft places that sell recod units, just swap the drive shaft over


"Really looking to spend as little as possible to get this fixed!!"

Too late for that! Now if you had kept an eye on the drive shaft boots, as a routine matter, and picked the problem up when the boot first split, you could have gotten away with a $15 DIY boot kit.

Once they get noisy like that, it means the joint is chewing itself up and is in need of replacement.

Easiest and most expensive option it to drive it (slowly) to a driveshaft shop and get a new one installed.
Cheaper options are a recon shaft or one from a wreckers, and swap it over yourself. Check the other side too while you are there. If one side goes the other is usually not far behind.

Woops, been driving it for the last 2 days like normal, haha. But honestly, who would check their cv boots on a regular basis?! lol Gotta be kidding.
So how much am I looking at for new/recon drive shaft? And do I need the whole shaft or just the CV joint as in the ebay link in first post?

. . . . who would check their cv boots on a regular basis?! lol Gotta be kidding.

I do. Every oil change at least. And the steering rack boots too. Mainly because I know these little checks will pick up problems early enough for the fix to be cheap.
Never had to buy anything except the boot kits.

I even check the coolant and oil levels on a regular basis. (* Goes off to polish his halo. *)

Crank the steering wheel on full lock, you can see the outer boots. They are the ones that go first. Stick your head under the car to check the inner boots. Takes maybe 5 minutes.

get the whole shaft, much less stuffing around. i paid under $80 for a recoed drive shaft.

I can do you a good second hand unit from a TJ, these have the plastic outer boots for $45 plus freight to WA, other than that the only other option I would recommend would be a complete new shaft, generally the reco inner joints do not last all that long.

As for checking boots, this is why we charge for more than just oil when doing a service as all of these things plus a lot more get checked while doing the service. Servicing involves a lot more than just dropping oil and changing filter----just to answer your question :)

I like doing things for the lowest dollar, so I'd say the way to go would be the second hand unit from Madmagna - if the freight is too high then the Ebay one for $57 delivered would be the go.
But like MadMax says, if one side is gone, the other will not be far behind....and the inner's as well.

Im in the same boat. I will be going the brand new complete shafts off ebay for $99. Brand new, why mess with 2nd hand mate when ya can get brand new for practically the same dollars.

Thanks guys! Maybe I will just go for a whole new shaft (Prob from ebay) Im guessing the ebay ones are much cheaper than ones you would get from somewhere like repco? Hopefully they are the same quality...

How long do you think my cv will last without a boot? (Well its still there, but in half so might as well not be there..) Dont know if im going to be able to fix it before next friday or so... :( Anything I can do to make it last the week? Somehow temporarily glue the boot back together?

Just be warned the ebay ones are cheap ones, you will end up regretting the purchase, remember you get what you pay for, you pay cheap, you get cheap and drive shafts are something you dont want to skimp on given the load that these go through

I can provide brand new complete shafts ready to install and can arrange postage, just check my section as all the prices are there

Just be warned the ebay ones are cheap ones, you will end up regretting the purchase, remember you get what you pay for, you pay cheap, you get cheap and drive shafts are something you dont want to skimp on given the load that these go through

I can provide brand new complete shafts ready to install and can arrange postage, just check my section as all the prices are there

Just checked out your section. So $140+postage? Hmmm..
How easy is it to change a driveshaft? Should I be taking it to a mechanic or could I do it myself?

How easy is it to change a driveshaft? Should I be taking it to a mechanic or could I do it myself?

Anybody?

The answer is:

DIY. Read the manual, struggle with it the first time you do it (I did, we all do), later jobs like this are a lot easier. It's a learning process.

OR

Not DIY. Take it to a mechanic if you don't want to be bothered with it.


Its up to you, your level of motivation and mechanical skill. Only you can answer your own question.

Anyone local to you who has done this before, and can look over your shoulder as you do it and make useful suggestions?

The answer is:

DIY. Read the manual, struggle with it the first time you do it (I did, we all do), later jobs like this are a lot easier. It's a learning process.

OR

Not DIY. Take it to a mechanic if you don't want to be bothered with it.


Its up to you, your level of motivation and mechanical skill. Only you can answer your own question.

Anyone local to you who has done this before, and can look over your shoulder as you do it and make useful suggestions?

Thanks! Ill have a look at the manual then. I have an apprentice mechanic mate who I could get to come help me, just dont know if I should risk it by doing it myself (Pretty busy with work etc atm, so only have the weekends to do this kind of stuff. Really wouldnt be good if something went wrong....)

Im still unsure as to how long a cv can last with a broken boot? Dont want to end up stranded somewhere if it gives out while im driving.... Anyway heres some pics
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt310/Rory_Newton/100_5100.jpg
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt310/Rory_Newton/100_5101.jpg

So the boot looks ok when the wheels are straight, but when I turn the wheel it opens up and Im guessing thats when the grease comes out... So im thinking as long as I take it slowly around corners, it should last the week?

I'm going get flame but regrease and duct tape the boot up as a temp fix.

Woohoo! That boot has been like that for a long time, haven't seen one that bad, ever! Meh! Add some grease, wrap lots of gladwrap around it, then duct tape. Should last you for . . . . . . . . . . . a couple of corners, at least.

No, seriously, the less you drive it the better. Just keep the speed down. When it gets noisy in a straight line you can start really worrying. Tow trucks cost money.

I'm going get flame but regrease and duct tape the boot up as a temp fix.


Woohoo! That boot has been like that for a long time, haven't seen one that bad, ever! Meh! Add some grease, wrap lots of gladwrap around it, then duct tape. Should last you for . . . . . . . . . . . a couple of corners, at least.

No, seriously, the less you drive it the better. Just keep the speed down. When it gets noisy in a straight line you can start really worrying. Tow trucks cost money.

So wait, are you serious about the gladwrap and tape?
How much do you guys think its gonna cost if I take it to a mechanic to get it fixed? (Cost of part and labour?) I do have a free day on wednesday, maybe ill see if i can book it in somewhere then....Dont want to do this though if its gonna cost twice as much as getting the part myself from like mal or ebay...

Cost me $900 to get mine fix at Mitsubishi dealership :)

Yeah tape job is only a very temp fix :)

Cost me $900 to get mine fix at Mitsubishi dealership :)

Yeah tape job is only a very temp fix :)

$900?! holy ****!! Was that mainly labour??
I can get the driveshaft from mal for $140+shipping (So prob $200 from mechanic??) and seems it would take only an hour or 2 to install?? Just doesnt add up??

Yeah was a while ago I go lol plus got a service so could be less lol

Just drive it like it is - a week will not cause a failure unless you are really unlucky and I've seen worse ones on Mini's and Pulsars where there was no boot left. I personally wouldn't put GladWrap or duct tape on the joint because if it loosens or unwraps (and it will), it's possible it may wrap around the shaft and/or the brake line or whatever and cause more problems.
Years ago just after CV joints came out in the 60's, they tried split rubber boots that would slip over the joint to avoid dis-assembly...I've never seen one but heard they were a failure. Earlier to that they used fabric boots soaked in grease and also leather ones especially on rack and pinion steering. Apologies for the rave.

Seriously? I wouldn't worry about doing anything to it and leave it as it is, its not likely to disintegrate and leave you stranded, it would get horribly noisy before then (in a straight line). But I would get it fixed soonish.

Hako beat me to it. lol

Split rubber boots were a failure, they worked well on VW swing axle rear ends, but there they don't spin around to spit grease out.

Yeah, just leave it mate, after all the worst that can happen is with no warning the joint will let go, you will then have half a meter of steel shaft, out of balance that will only take out your brake lines, half your chassis rail etc and cause you to crash, but hey, it will buff out

I have really come to hold my tongue when I read the above comments but in this case I can not do that. Anyone who is telling you to just drive it as it will warn you before it breaks is delusional. WTF do you think is going to happen, you will get a tap on the windscreen stating your shaft is about to fly out of the car, come on guys, before you give advice like that get it bloody right as this sort of thing can and in the past has killed people. Anyone who intentionally drives a car with a drive shaft like that is a moron, simple. A GENTLE drive a k or 2 to a mechanic is one thing but a few weeks, stop playing with yourselves FFS Oh, and duct tape will last about 1 corner and be gone if it even sticks in the first place.

Remember, you can not see the damage already done and dont know how long has been like this

now my rant is over......OP, you have a few choices, I have low mileage second hand ones here which will not give you that issue as the boot is made of a plastic material on the later cars this they dont generally split like that, the reason teh older rubber ones split is because the rubber like all rubber goes hard and cracks.

If you are a little hard up for cash given it is coming up to Christmas, perhaps a secondhand item is the way to go, I have some here from cars all under 100k and I can even give you some with only in the area of 60k's on them.

I am also sure if you spoke to some of the WA members they could help you install, it is not really a hard job to do at all, even a novice who can use a spanner should not take long to do this

The message is pretty clear to the OP, and I'm sure he has caught on by now, its not safe to drive the car like this and he needs to get it fixed ASAP. He might be a bit more conscientious about checking things under the car in future too.

Ok, just got home from work. Car drove perfectly, no noises at all from the driveshaft!
Just gonna ring up a mechanic now and see how much they're gonna charge for a replacement. Hopefully they can give me a quote.... If its a decent price, will prob just get it repaired asap, otherwise will buy off you mal and do it myself (Or take it in for mechanic to do). Really hope its a decent price as I dont want to be driving to work for a week with the shaft like this....
Thanks guys for the help!

Ok just booked it in. Apparently its going to be $290 for driveshaft and labour which seems like a decent amount, but he can do it on wednesday which is what I need. Really didnt want to have to drive to work on thurs and fri in the condition it is in after reading the comments on here!

Can always cancel I spose if you guys think the quote is unreasonable.... so, thoughts?
Thanks :)

Sounds ok, seeing you have little choice in getting it done quickly. Get him to check the other side for perished boots too.

Sounds ok, seeing you have little choice in getting it done quickly. Get him to check the other side for perished boots too.

Will do! :) Thanks!

I am going to be replacing my passenger drive shaft in my tf this weekend. I am just not sure on a few things, do i need to drain my trans (auto) fluid ? or can i top up what it loses? Also what is the best way to get the drive shaft to pop out of the trans ? any info would be great
Thanks:D

I too was watching the posts about "she'll be right mate" with horror. Have seen the mayhem an exploded out CV can create!!

Having said that, I once nursed a split boot CV joint a couple of thousand kms. The boot split in Greece on my Reno wagon, and I got it all the way up to Scotland via Germany and London!! I used a couple of kilos of CV grease, and was stopping every couple of hundred kms to poke more grease into it!!! Wheel arch was pretty messy at the end, but amazingly none got on the brake disc!

It can be done if you're willing to make sure it stays lubricated, but not recommended!!

The OP got the message in the end and is getting it fixed ASAP. At least he didn't attempt to drive across most of Europe with it, like you did! lol

The OP got the message in the end and is getting it fixed ASAP. At least he didn't attempt to drive across most of Europe with it, like you did! lol

Yup, just putting my two bobs worth in :) And yes, my escapade is not a recommended course of action... My Reno was an old s/h travel car which I eventually rolled into a s/h dealer in London and dumped for 400 quid (it cost me 800 quid and did 15,000km - I was happy!) so didn't want to spend money on it in the last two weeks there! ;)

What makes CV joints explode is of course a lack of lubrication - I kept mine lubed enough to keep it safe. Very messy though...

The OP got the message in the end and is getting it fixed ASAP. At least he didn't attempt to drive across most of Europe with it, like you did! lol

Ahahahaha I dont know, was looking at a service receipt thing from a while ago last night when my dad pointed out it said something about the driveshaft boot being split. They hadnt said anything to me about it, was just written at the bottom of the page in small writing. (Should really pay closer attention to my service sheets lol). This service was done 20,000ks ago!! So it seems I probably could have driven across europe with it....lol

Another thing. When going around hard corners, I still get a little clunk even though the driveshaft has been replaced. So im thinking it IS just the spring not seated properly or something. Gonna take a look today or tommorrow. (Got new bogue shocks of mal not too long ago so it shouldnt be the shock). So the CV could have been fine after all even though its had a split boot for a long time!!! Ahh well, glad I got it replaced anyway!

*Sorry for bumping an old thread*
Is there any of the CVs with Plastic boots still available from anyone here? :)