hi guys,

anyone ever changing Transmission Oil on your 380? apparently there are some kits including new Gaskets and tranny filter when you do your service.

380 has the pan vertical :ninja: and didnt find and kits for either 380 or Galant.

is the only maintenance Flush and clean up of the oil plug? :eek2:

thanks

I did mine but not a flush, just drain and top-up twice. The transmission just shift so much smoother after i change it with Amsoil Syn ATF (SP III).

thanks trex - can you tell me where is the drain plug located? i had a look there but could not see it. is it on that vertical pan?

I bought a V8 tranny cooler off flea bay and had that fitted. I haven't done any servicing on the auto myself but have had it power flushed as soon as I bought it with new fluid put in. I would definitely advocate a cooler for one as heat is the biggest enemy to longevity on an auto. Plus if you tow it is pretty much a must.

Similar to this, it's on the side of the transmission, copper colour plug.

http://www.vertsoft.com/cars/images/2001%20MITSUBISHI%20GALANT/8G5SPDSWAP/SWAP/SWAP016_SMALL.jpg

I am thinking of putting tranny cooler in - i am thinking doing it my self as it seem pretty easy job... anyone already done it, any ideas and recommendations?

I am planning to at least change the tranny oil on the weekend... drain and top up and drain an top up...

Don't use the plastic ties that many come with. Fabricate your own bracket. Make sure that you get enough of the right size hose before you start. Most of the kits don't have enough. Ensure that the cooler you buy has the correct size fittings. All seems simple but it is often the simple things that trip you up.

hey trex,

what size of the spanner is for the tranny oil plug? thx

m

hey trex,

what size of the spanner is for the tranny oil plug? thx

m

Not sure about that as i use an adjustable spanner.

Not sure about that as i use an adjustable spanner.

Tell me you don't use a shifter on that PLEASE!!!
It is probably either a 17mm or 19mm at a guess.

Tell me you don't use a shifter on that PLEASE!!!
It is probably either a 17mm or 19mm at a guess.

No worries, adjustable spanner works as well :)

I did mine but not a flush, just drain and top-up twice. The transmission just shift so much smoother after i change it with Amsoil Syn ATF (SP III).

Hey Trex - where did you get the Amsoil gear box oil? i looked in the supercheap etc. and could not find it. is there any Nulon or Castrol similar to this amsoil? thx

Hey Trex - where did you get the Amsoil gear box oil? i looked in the supercheap etc. and could not find it. is there any Nulon or Castrol similar to this amsoil? thx

Don't think that Castrol or Nulon are anything remotely close to Amsoil Syn ATf, if you search in BITOG forums under ATF section, Redline and Amsoil Syn ATF are one of the best Syn ATF around.
Anyway, i got my Amsoil from performancelub.com ,look for Harold, he should be able to help you.

Have done tranny oil change last week. I went for castrol as Amsoil is just too far from Sydney :-(. I changed almost all of it 8l. The tranny oil plug looked like a pin head - smart thinking to put there magnet to get metal particles. The tranny oil looked bad after 69k km - really heavy burnt smell and unhealthy color. The Shifting improved instantly - on the moderate ride the gear changing dropped from about 1800-2000 rpm to about 1500-1600. the drain plug is 19mm so adjustable shifter helped a lot :-) im still thinking about tranny cooler to extend tranny fluid life and tranny it self. m

Ok sorry to bring up an old one however i made inquiries today with mits dealer about a transmission service and was quoted a what seemed to be a fair price. Was told there is NO servicable filter on these transmissions. Is this correct ??????.

Ok sorry to bring up an old one however i made inquiries today with mits dealer about a transmission service and was quoted a what seemed to be a fair price. Was told there is NO servicable filter on these transmissions. Is this correct ??????.

yes that is correct, the filter is internal.

Only use genuine fluid

Slightly related, does anyone know how much a full trans flush is worth....

$5-600 seems a bit bloody steep from Mits....

mine was about 400 from memory

Wow 400 I do full flush $185 which allows up to 12l of fluid. Although there are a few good sp3 fluids I still use genuine fluid as price is cheaper than a lot of the aftermarket stuff and IMO is better as is specialized. Many of the aftermarket are just blended dextron with additive to make it compatible

Thank you very much for the advice . If i lived in Vic i would give it you to handle Mal but that Mexican winter is to bloody cold for my old and tired body.

As for a dealer transmission service with a full flush and double checking to be sure only genuine oil was used i was quoted $245.00. Your price Mal is well and truly good value.

Cheers

Steve

It was done over 12 months ago so I could be wrong! but it always gets OEM fluid I know that much

And how much fluid on average is needed to flush then to top up?

I'll be buying the fluid from mits (need to know how much to buy) and will go to a tranny place I think.....

Need mine done soon.....

If not too bad generally 5.5 to drain and fill and then around 6 to get a good flush. One car I did about 18 month ago took over 22 liters before I got colour back cust had been told needed a new trans and came to me for a second opinion.

Was the dirtiest fluid I have ever seen to this day but luckily no trans damage. Sad thing is he was charged by the dealer for a flush but they only used 5l of fluid which is not even a basic fill

I have always used penrite fluid, it is model specific and comes in semi or full synthetic. Mal, how do you flush the fluid in the converter?

Yea that's what my usual dealer is trying to tell me. That 5 litres is enough for a flush and guide change, maybe if they're putting the old fluid back in yea.

A guy in Sydney who fixed the gearbox/wavespring on our old Solara did a pretty good job with that. Might use him on my car. Just don't wanna get ripped off, so many varying prices.....

Do it up here Kiffy, the guy that did my LSD is cool

Do it up here Kiffy, the guy that did my LSD is cool
Any idea what he charges and would I have to supply the fluid do you think?

No would have to call him.

He pulled my tranny & swapped diff & refilled with genuine fluid including a flush for $700 which I thought was pretty bloody good.

If the trans holds 5.5 and the converter holds over 2l how can a flush be 5. These dealers are only dropping the contents of the sump and topping back up. No wonder so mant autos fail

If the trans holds 5.5 and the converter holds over 2l how can a flush be 5. These dealers are only dropping the contents of the sump and topping back up. No wonder so mant autos fail

What is your procedure for changing the ATF in the transmissions converter?

I recall getting mine flushed by my local mechanic and queried the high cost and was told they used 15+ litres of flushing oil to completely flush the system on their 'machine'
Cant remember the exact cost now as done couple yrs ago. may still be a thread on this.

The procedure has been posted up here before somewhere.:) easy enough DIY.
Youtube has a number of vids that walk you through it aswell.

Bought these on Friday from work getting flush done Thursday :)
im not sure if these suit your car.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h373/xboxice/Picture007.jpg
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h373/xboxice/Picture006.jpg
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h373/xboxice/Picture005.jpg
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h373/xboxice/Picture004.jpg
http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h373/xboxice/Picture003.jpg

The reason I asked is because it can't be done. All that happens is that you are diluting the old fluid with new fluid. And there are always very fine particles left on the parts inside the tranny. Some of the ford c4 trannies had a drain plug in the convertor. I don't recall seeing any others in my time in the industry. So the only way to clean gunk and old fluid out of a tranny is to pull it apart.

The reason I asked is because it can't be done. All that happens is that you are diluting the old fluid with new fluid. And there are always very fine particles left on the parts inside the tranny. Some of the ford c4 trannies had a drain plug in the convertor. I don't recall seeing any others in my time in the industry. So the only way to clean gunk and old fluid out of a tranny is to pull it apart.

With flushing you get 99.9% out, even on the c4 there is still some left in the system, at least this way you are pushing the old out in front of the new as the old fluid gets pumped out

With flushing you get 99.9% out, even on the c4 there is still some left in the system, at least this way you are pushing the old out in front of the new as the old fluid gets pumped out

It doesn't push the old fluid out, it mixes with the old fluid. They are the same medium.

Clearly you are the expert so I will leave you to clear up any tech questions in the future......

So as you are the new tech advisor care to tell people how a flush is done and also please let us all know why after a proper trans flush the old fluid that remains in a container from the flush recourse itself and ends back in the trans....

At our stealership a trans service is a drain and refill. A trans flush is only done if we check the dipstick and fluid is very dirty/burnt, it gets reported to customer and is up to customer to decide if they want a flush or not.

i did a FLUSH personally and the old fluid was black and afterwards the new fluid was clean and red. clearly the fluid mixed with the old and became a brand new.... red, colour... lol

Clearly you are the expert so I will leave you to clear up any tech questions in the future......

So as you are the new tech advisor care to tell people how a flush is done and also please let us all know why after a proper trans flush the old fluid that remains in a container from the flush recourse itself and ends back in the trans....

I have noticed that you dislike when people don't agree with your views. Also if I wished to be the new tech advisor then that would be my decision not yours.

At our stealership a trans service is a drain and refill. A trans flush is only done if we check the dipstick and fluid is very dirty/burnt, it gets reported to customer and is up to customer to decide if they want a flush or not.

i did a FLUSH personally and the old fluid was black and afterwards the new fluid was clean and red. clearly the fluid mixed with the old and became a brand new.... red, colour... lol

As i said before the more you dilute the old oil with new oil the cleaner it will be but you won't remove the particles that cover the tranny internals.

As i said before the more you dilute the old oil with new oil the cleaner it will be but you won't remove the particles that cover the tranny internals.

Sorry but 5 posts ago you were asking how to flush, not you seem to know it all

The flushing process removes nearly all the old fluid as well as the "particles" coating the internals to a degree where the fluid and the transmission is servicable.

If you think that just dumping the fluid and refilling it is as good as a flush then you are sadly mistaken as i have proven many times to many customers. So yes, the only way to have the transmission in brand new state is to dismantle and totally clean, but do you do this to your engine each oil change, I think not.

A proper flush will remove 99% of the old fluid because as the car is run, NONE of the old fluid is going back into the trans the only fluid going back in is the new fluid. Given that prior to the flush the contents of the trans are dumped and filled, then the flush is done, this is the most effective way of flushing that is practicle.

I really do not know what point you are trying to make, if any at all.


I have noticed that you dislike when people don't agree with your views. Also if I wished to be the new tech advisor then that would be my decision not yours.

I dont give a rats ass if someone does not agree with my opinion BUT when my opinion is fact, is a process done by almost every workshop and is the proper process, what I do not like is someone coming into these forums spouting crap they clearly do not understand.

Your whole slant is that doing a flush is a waste of time from what I am reading in your posts, well you are wrong, can not put it any more simply than that. What I do not like is when people give information that is either wrong or could do others harm to their cars or themselves. Remember that there are those who will just pop in for specific information, will read this information and then go and perform this on a car not realising that this is not the correct way to do something (not just talking about transmissions) and then a workshop like mine ends up cleaning up the mess and trying to explain to the customer what went wrong

Add to this, it is not YOUR decision if you want to be a tech advisor sunshine, might want to remember that.

Back on topic..

80,000ks and my cousins 380 took 13L to get the fluid looking juicy red..

I guess its case by case..

I bought 16L for my 3rd Gen and I think we had a whole 4L bottle left.. so every car will be a little different.

All we did was have the OUT line from the tranny cooler in a bucket and the IN line from the cooler in a bucket of clean fluid - Different way of doing things, but it worked for us.

SuFz :ninja:

But physics would dictate that even if it did mix, it would eventually work its way out.

And you can't argue with physics.

Just called up the auto tranny dude who I think I mentioned earlier. He said I'm looking at $150 for a full flush using his specified transmission fluid which he claims is better then the genuine stuff.

He said it'll take all up including the flush and refill about 16 liters.

Does that price seem too good of a deal?

I also said I'd prefer using the genuine stuff since I have it laying around ( I dont yet, but just to try and make him use genuine stuff) and he again said he wouldn't bother with the genuine stuff...

Would any of you use something not genuine? I'm leaning towards not....

Just called up the auto tranny dude who I think I mentioned earlier. He said I'm looking at $150 for a full flush using his specified transmission fluid which he claims is better then the genuine stuff.

He said it'll take all up including the flush and refill about 16 liters.

Does that price seem too good of a deal?

I also said I'd prefer using the genuine stuff since I have it laying around ( I dont yet, but just to try and make him use genuine stuff) and he again said he wouldn't bother with the genuine stuff...

Would any of you use something not genuine? I'm leaning towards not....

Have used non genuine and 35000ks later.. It's still juicy red and the box is going great guns.

Thats an 08 380 SX.. My cousin doesnt drive it too lightly either..

Has he told you what fluid he's using?

SuFz :ninja:

He mentioned something but I don't recall what he said something 13?

We used him before when the wave spring in our old TJ Solara gave up the ghost. That's still going strong. He also recommended a fluid change every 12 months...

He mentioned something but I don't recall what he said something 13?

We used him before when the wave spring in our old TJ Solara gave up the ghost. That's still going strong. He also recommended a fluid change every 12 months...

If you REALLY want to use Genuine Fluid by all means..

I've been using Nulon in my KJ and thats what we used in the 380 too..

SuFz :ninja:

Other brands are fine as I have always stated, just be sure that they are not a blend and are specifically SPIII

The reason I use Genuine is a few fold

Several of my customers have cars still under warranty, should something go wrong with a transmission there can not be any come back from the dealer
Price, Mits genuine fluid I get for a price comparable to most of the aftermarket fluids, I purhcase them in 60l drums
Most fluids are find but at least with the SPIII from mits I know what I am getting, often companies will change formulations etc and I would not want to risk using something I would not be prepared to use in my own car

Simple rule, as soon as you notice your fluid changing colour, flush it, dont worry so much about the book intervals as often they are way too long. A proper trans cooler and external filter also do wonders for these transmisssions and them lasting a lot longer, I have one customer with 400k on a TF wagon, he tows a camper trailer on it often, original trans, we fitted a cooler to that one years ago.

Other brands are fine as I have always stated, just be sure that they are not a blend and are specifically SPIII

The reason I use Genuine is a few fold

Several of my customers have cars still under warranty, should something go wrong with a transmission there can not be any come back from the dealer
Price, Mits genuine fluid I get for a price comparable to most of the aftermarket fluids, I purhcase them in 60l drums
Most fluids are find but at least with the SPIII from mits I know what I am getting, often companies will change formulations etc and I would not want to risk using something I would not be prepared to use in my own car

Simple rule, as soon as you notice your fluid changing colour, flush it, dont worry so much about the book intervals as often they are way too long. A proper trans cooler and external filter also do wonders for these transmisssions and them lasting a lot longer, I have one customer with 400k on a TF wagon, he tows a camper trailer on it often, original trans, we fitted a cooler to that one years ago.

Like Mal has said.. It comes down to personal preference..

He personally prefers and recommends Genuine fluids as per his above reasons..

I've used the Nulon fluid and have had no dramas at all.

I have been wanting to try something else recently.. Just for testing purposes.

SuFz :ninja:

Gday fellas. Long time trawler, first time poster.

Just got quoted $165 for a transmission flush & fill. Queried him on roughly how many litres it would take & he said about 10-12L. Sound enough?

Also, if i could pick your brains on a problem i have with the front end.
-The Symptom comes (well when it's most obvious) with light braking in the 20>0km/hr stage.
-I do not feel it through the pedal, mainly through the car. It is a sort of grinding with a clunk every few metres.

Sorry but that's the best explanation i can come up with.
Turning wheels full lock at low speed does not replicate the symptom.

Would appreciate any advice!
Cheers

10-12L is a fair amount..

What is the symptom exactly?

Sounds like it may be brake related.

SuFz :ninja:

Wear indicators, anti rattle clips maybe on the pads

i bought 15L of genuine Mitsubishi SP-111 ATF i just Hope its enough for the AWD

Hi gentlemen, my 380 has done 92k and Mitsubishi has never mentioned an Auto Tranny service, just wondering when they are supposed to do it??? Im guessing i need to do it ASAP regardless??? I am paranoid when it comes to my car so if i need to do it, nothing will get in my way!!!!!!

I got quoted $190 today for a transmission flush at Highlands Transmissions, he is saying that will be about 7 litres??? He swears thats all it needs???

It does say it in the service book

every 45K interval is when I tend to change the fluid

Doesn't sound like a flush though. Drain & fill more like it

Thats what i said Ninjaa, he reckons thats all, should i go to a place that uses the machine or is just the manual method enough????
Doesn't sound like a flush though. Drain & fill more like it

I got quoted $190 today for a transmission flush at Highlands Transmissions, he is saying that will be about 7 litres??? He swears thats all it needs???

Manual or power flush regardless needs way more, average is usually 12l for a flush

if my tf is anything to go by
full flush and refill 12 ltrs
$165 total bill

Danny..

Manual or power flush regardless needs way more, average is usually 12l for a flush

Does any one have a scientific way of checking a few drops of oil from the dipstick to see if a change or flush is needed by, checking particles etc?

Does any one have a scientific way of checking a few drops of oil from the dipstick to see if a change or flush is needed by, checking particles etc?

Yes. It's called oil analysis. Just send a sample of your oil to a laboratory and they will test it for contamination.

I used Highlands Transmission when I had my EB Ford. Took in for a service, got it back, drove to work only to find that I had no reverse. Charged $1000 to rebuild tranny. Wont go back again.
I got quoted $190 today for a transmission flush at Highlands Transmissions, he is saying that will be about 7 litres??? He swears thats all it needs???

My AWD takes 13L Diaqueen sp3 for flush, i got this done last week Thursday.

It would be cheaper just do a drain and top-up then sent the oil for analysis. You need around 5 quart of ATF, i use Amsoil Fully Syn ATF.

Ok I won't be going there then!!!
I used Highlands Transmission when I had my EB Ford. Took in for a service, got it back, drove Good to know Kiwi, I won't use them then!!!to work only to find that I had no reverse. Charged $1000 to rebuild tranny. Wont go back again.

Albion Park Mitsubishi quoted $280 for a flush. Does that sound ok?

Albion Park Mitsubishi quoted $280 for a flush. Does that sound ok?

Sounds expensive, my quotes was identical to:

if my tf is anything to go by
full flush and refill 12 ltrs
$165 total bill

380 in your avatar, maybe you need to drain them a special way :P

My AWD takes 13L Diaqueen sp3 for flush, i got this done last week Thursday.

Where did you get DiaQueen SP3 and do you have a part number? My local Mitsubishi dealer couldn't help when I asked for it and they could only sell me the "normal" Mitsubishi branded SP3 ATF.

DiaQueen SP III is the same as Mitsubishi SP III ATF.

Took my car for a box flush yesterday.

I must say that I'm very impressed with the difference the flush and fluid change has done for my gearbox. But with all good news comes bad news....

Turned out my fluid was extremely dirty and took a total of 35litres to flush. Not happy Jan. The auto trans guy seems to think Mitsubishi hasn't been very honest with what they say they do and what they actually do. Not something I enjoyed hearing to say the least. A visit to my mits dealer is certainly in order.

Anyways, apart from that he was pleased to report no metal bits or anything came out in the flush.

Nice and smooth, happy Kif!

Hey there Kif, was so suprised to hear that Mitsubishi tell "Porky Pies", NOOOOT!!!!!, How much did the flush cost mate??? 35 sounds a bit extreme, may they have been telling porky pies???
Took my car for a box flush yesterday.

I must say that I'm very impressed with the difference the flush and fluid change has done for my gearbox. But with all good news comes bad news....

Turned out my fluid was extremely dirty and took a total of 35litres to flush. Not happy Jan. The auto trans guy seems to think Mitsubishi hasn't been very honest with what they say they do and what they actually do. Not something I enjoyed hearing to say the least. A visit to my mits dealer is certainly in order.

Anyways, apart from that he was pleased to report no metal bits or anything came out in the flush.

Nice and smooth, happy Kif!

Yea I was thinking the same as in terms of services from mits I haven't had too many dramas with that dealer ship. Admittedly, I think my fluid was atleast 50k old so wouldn't be surprised if it did take that much as Mitsubishi probably only did a change back then and not a flush.

Flush was originally $360 but with te extra 15 litres used he charged me $450.

Seems a bit steep for a flush but feeling the difference now I'm not fussed with the price, just happy to feel how smooth the gear changes are again.

I can not even feel the car change gears, you only know it's changing gears from the noise of the exhaust. Very happy indeed.

Where did you get DiaQueen SP3 and do you have a part number? My local Mitsubishi dealer couldn't help when I asked for it and they could only sell me the "normal" Mitsubishi branded SP3 ATF.
got mine from Kloster's Mitsubishi Newcastle,part# MMAL PART NO:MR922838

You must be on the 'Big Bucks" Kif!!!! Mate Bravo for the way you keep your car looking, i'm a perfectionist but haven't put much effort into it, you have set the benchmark for sure, inspiring!!!

Yea I was thinking the same as in terms of services from mits I haven't had too many dramas with that dealer ship. Admittedly, I think my fluid was atleast 50k old so wouldn't be surprised if it did take that much as Mitsubishi probably only did a change back then and not a flush.

Flush was originally $360 but with te extra 15 litres used he charged me $450.

Seems a bit steep for a flush but feeling the difference now I'm not fussed with the price, just happy to feel how smooth the gear changes are again.

I can not even feel the car change gears, you only know it's changing gears from the noise of the exhaust. Very happy indeed.

Also, if i could pick your brains on a problem i have with the front end.
-The Symptom comes (well when it's most obvious) with light braking in the 20>0km/hr stage.
-I do not feel it through the pedal, mainly through the car. It is a sort of grinding with a clunk every few metres.

Sorry but that's the best explanation i can come up with.
Turning wheels full lock at low speed does not replicate the symptom.

Would appreciate any advice!
Cheers


10-12L is a fair amount..

What is the symptom exactly?

Sounds like it may be brake related.

SuFz :ninja:


Wear indicators, anti rattle clips maybe on the pads

Just an update on this, for anyone curious. Front left tyre was shagged - replaced the front two with federals (rear two were 90%) & had a wheel alignment done. Perfect :)

Albion Park Mitsubishi quoted $280 for a flush. Does that sound ok?

Just an update on transmission flush. Took it to Albion Park Mitsi and was charged $184 for the flush, originally quoted $280. When I asked how much fluid was used the girl at the desk couldnt tell me and the mechanic was unavailable to answer my question. Me thinks they only drained and refilled, wont go back to them. Dont know how they won Outstanding dealer of the year for servicing...........

Just an update on transmission flush. Took it to Albion Park Mitsi and was charged $184 for the flush, originally quoted $280. When I asked how much fluid was used the girl at the desk couldnt tell me and the mechanic was unavailable to answer my question. Me thinks they only drained and refilled, wont go back to them. Dont know how they won Outstanding dealer of the year for servicing...........

From memory it takes about 5L of ATF for drain and top-up.

From memory it takes about 5L of ATF for drain and top-up.

Something like that, but the 35L mentioned earlier on is a bit much, that would be 7 drains... oil shouldn't be that dirty, and it sounds like it hasn't been changed for considerably more mileage than 50,000.

Drain plug is actually 24mm. Not sure if models vary or if your using an Irish socket???
Have done tranny oil change last week. I went for castrol as Amsoil is just too far from Sydney :-(. I changed almost all of it 8l. The tranny oil plug looked like a pin head - smart thinking to put there magnet to get metal particles. The tranny oil looked bad after 69k km - really heavy burnt smell and unhealthy color. The Shifting improved instantly - on the moderate ride the gear changing dropped from about 1800-2000 rpm to about 1500-1600. the drain plug is 19mm so adjustable shifter helped a lot :-) im still thinking about tranny cooler to extend tranny fluid life and tranny it self. m

Correct drain is 24mm

Added to this very curious how 8l was drained, the box holds 5.5 and the rest is in the torque converter which can not be drained. Only way to get fresh fluid through is to flush it which takes a damn side more than 8l

Kif, $450 for a flush, you should have taken a weekend trip down here mate, $195 for a 380 flush, 2 tanks of fuel and some drinks lol

I'm sure you'd charge me for the 35 litres it took to flush out my box and toque converter LO LO LO

Drinks on the other hand, good idea!

Hey Kif, just flushed my box myself after alot of research, was very nervous, but ended up quite simple, i drained almost exactly 4L out of the sump and pumped through about another 8L to get the fluid nice and red. Dont know how yours could have taken 34L mate, seriously, my fluid had never been changed after 93000km and it barely took 12L.

I seem to be getting better fuel economy immediately after the flush, is this as a result of the flush???

By the way, i used the Nulon fully synthetic, 3 bottles were $59 dollars each, which was the cheapest i could get it

Overall the box seems alot smoother and i'm happy with the running of the car.

By the way, i used the Nulon fully synthetic, 3 bottles were $59 dollars each, which was the cheapest i could get it
At $59 a bottle you would have been better off going the genuine stuff. I think I paid $130 for 3 bottles?


Dont know how yours could have taken 34L mate, seriously, my fluid had never been changed after 93000km and it barely took 12L.
My Magna took 3 flushes to get clean the first time I had the fluid changed, so 34l isn't exactly impossible.

LO, my car doesn't exactly have those sort of k's so not surprised if it really did take that much....

I am looking to replace the trans oil myself. Car is just about to clock over 100k. I had the trans serviced about 20k ago but I think they only drained and refilled as on questioning them recently they said they do not powerflush transmissions anymore as they have had issues with contaminants being dislodged and finding their way into valves/solenoids.
Can anyone enlighten me as to how to refill the trans. Is there a certain place for refilling or do I need to fill it via the dipstick tube?
Manual flushing has been mentioned here, is this something you need a certain tool/equipment for?
I am thinking of just doing a drain and fill, then cover a couple of hundred km before doing another drain and fill to get as much of the old fluid out as possible.

Also looking to install a cooler, any thoughts on running it in series with factory cooler or bypassing the factory cooler entirely??

Cheers

Hey guys
Does anyone know how to change the Transmission filters and the whole works? Would be awesome to have a walk through of all that needs done step by step. Got a 380 VRX with 95000 on thye clock and dont think the trans been touched so just want to make sure i dont have to worry about it for a while.
Would appreciate the help
Cheers

You need to remove and dismantle the trans. Something there will never be a walk through for as is very complex

Iv'e read that unlike the Magna, the 380 doesn't have a transmission fluid filter - is this correct? This was also explained to me by a transmission specialist as the reason why a power flush wasn't recommended by him for the 380, but rather a flush using a manual hand powered pump instead, ie, to avoid dislodging contaminants which could end up in solenoids (as mentioned by NZ380VRX's guy to him)...

Can anyone else verify this?

Cheers,
Adam.

Well i work in a car shop and we do sell the auto transmission kits, pretty much looks like all the other trans kits for your standard commodors and falcons, a basic filter and a gasket, i also found a listing for an inside filter looks like a standard oil filter twist on only goes somewhere inside the transmission but not too sure where. Was just hoping someone done it before so they could confirm it would be as easy as dropping the trans fluid and then dropping the pan replacing filter and changing the gasket seal and re installing it all back together.

There is no pan to drop, the filter is internal. As Madmagna said, you would basically have to strip down/rebuild the entire transmission to change it. Early four speed auto trans in the third gen Magna's had a spin-on external filter on top of the trans, everything since is internal. Power flushing the auto trans is no issue, the factory workshop manual tells you to do it this way, basically the same procedure as on a third gen Magna.

Sorry Dragzz your listings are wrong

Yes you can get a "service" kit as such which is used when you strip down the trans for what ever reason. There is NO spin on filters anywhere in a 380 trans, the internal filter is replaceable once you remove the front housing thus remove the box from the car

Other member asking about power flush, the whole concept of not doing this "incase" you dislodge some gunk, what a load of BS, this "specialist" is simply either Lazy, Stupid or too scared to do the job properly. Of course with any flush there is a risk but no more risk than that bit of gunk moving while the car is is being driven and doing the exact same thing. The 380 Trans is pretty much the same internally as the 5sp Auto Magna box, yes some small differences but essentially the same make up.

Ahh ok i see, yeah i do have the manual might give the power flush a go hope i do it properly haha.

Cheers guys

Thanks Madmagna, the idea of avoiding a power flush on a 380 to avoid dislodging contaminants sounded illogical to me too, hence why I never booked in with that place.

I read somewhere that Honda also strongly recommend not to flush their AT. They even came up with a service bulletin HSN0206-07 on why they don't recommend doing the flush. maybe just a drain and top up as recommended by the manufacturer would be just as good.

How can it be just as good when the torque converter holds a heap of dirty fluid. Do you undo your sump plug, drain 2/3 of the oil and then pop the plug back in. Add to this our cars are Mitsubishi's not Honda's. If Honda are worried about their shopping centre quality cars then that is fine (lets face it only in Australia is a Honda something special) but I have been flushing Mitsubishi Transmissions for years and not had any issues. I do not force fluid through the trans like an actual power flush unit does more I let it pump out while at the same time topping up with new fluid however I keep this process running until what is coming out is as clean as what is going in.

Is it possible to fit a 380 transmission into a 3rd gen?
For example if doing a 6G75 conversion?

Box will bolt in but the ECU will not run it, has been covered many times before

I read somewhere that Honda also strongly recommend not to flush their AT.
Have you seen the fluid that comes out of a Magna or 380 gearbox after flushing? You'd be crazy not to flush it.

Have you seen the fluid that comes out of a Magna or 380 gearbox after flushing? You'd be crazy not to flush it.


How true Red Valdez!! My TL Magna had a tranny oil change from the mechanic at 183,000km.( just dumped the fluid & let it sit for 2 hours, said it was fine inside ) I flushed it put a transmission cooler on and a separate magnefine filter on the line at 194,000 and it took 15 litres to come clean (the oil was disgusting). My 380 is about to get changed, has 73,000 on it and am expecting the same. I use Mitsubishi oil as after everything I have read here & online elsewhere, there is no way I would put anything else in and it is cheap as well. My 2 cents .

Hi guys, just picked my 380 with 150000 k's, I am going to do a full transmission flush but the dealers want to charge nearly $45 for 5 ltrs. Seeing as the oil is so disgusting I figure I will probably need to get 20ltrs. My question is, can I get genuine oil anywhere cheaper than a dealer? I live on the Central Coast.
Thanks.

I paid $47 for each 5 litre container in Brisbane so that seems ok.

Hi guys, just picked my 380 with 150000 k's, I am going to do a full transmission flush but the dealers want to charge nearly $45 for 5 ltrs. Seeing as the oil is so disgusting I figure I will probably need to get 20ltrs. My question is, can I get genuine oil anywhere cheaper than a dealer? I live on the Central Coast.
Thanks.

You'll be hard pressed to get aftermarket oil thats suitable, let alone genuine oil anywhere, for cheaper. Mitsubishi SPIII oil is very well priced, even at a dealer.

I had the trans flushed on our 380 again mid December and the main thing I've noticed this time is that the economy is improving. Even with the wife driving! ;)

I just filled up today and the manual calculation was 10.56L/100. This is slightly better that when it was at 30k when I got it. It's been in the 11's and sometimes 12's around town for a while but since the flush I noticed it seemed to be doing better so I recorded this last tank.

I've got nothing else to contribute this too, so I'm giving the flush all the credit, though I don't recall this happening before.