Hi all.
Having some dramas with my sisters TF. These problems only started yesterday for the first time after a 2 hour drive.
The car runs perfect when engine cold, still plenty of power etc, for the first 20 mins or so then it gradually starts misfiring (only when hot after being driven around for at least 30mins, progressively gets worse the longer the engine is running). Check Engine light comes on approx 20mins of running. Have checked connections (AFM, TPS etc) all seem fine, car doesn't run rich. I suspected leads / plugs but they aren't that old, there is no oil inside the chambers where leads plug in, and when it completely stalls it doesnt seem like a cylinder isn't firing.. I disconnected the battery for 15 mins, idled the motor, temp gauge jumped a fraction higher than normal really quickly then back down again, I've checked coolant and engine oil, no signs of water in oil or vice versa, coolant still full and in good condition, so i'm thinking possibly an electrical problem? When slowing down and the tachometer starts going irratic, it still sometimes feels the engine is running fine.. weird.
Now the battery has gone flat within one 10 minute drive (was fully charged prior, battery light didn't come on at all either) and apparently a fuse has blown.. i'm not with the car now so I am not sure exactly which fuse. RACQ on the way apparently, car will hopefully get home and to Mitsubishi Dealer 2moro morning for diagnostic testing for fault codes. I am just wondering if anybody has had similar issues and can shed some light on some possible outcomes. Cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ze-vwNcTf0Q

Apparently now the car has been started, but doesn't want to idle whatsoever, soon as accelerator is released the engine stops. Another thing I forgot to mention is a couple of times in the video when going from neutral to drive, if the revs are above 1000rpm, the trans jumps in, it's never done this before either, it usually transitions into drive smoothly as the revs drop.

From what I've gathered from this forum, your problem could be a battery that is on it's last legs and not maintaining full voltage. My previous car also would not run if battery voltage was below ~12.4Vdc...apparently the ECU closes if battery voltage goes below this to protect itself.

Thanks for the reply. Well the car logged 2 fault codes (not sure which ones) and battery is fine. Apparently a wire that goes to all the injectors has been rubbing on a belt and it's nearly worn right through, so the injectors haven't been getting proper power.. something so simple, as soon as the mitsu mechanic saw the codes he picked it up straight away

Really? Which wire would that be, I wonder. Can you take a picture of, or describe its location, so we can all rush out and check this?

Got the right plugs in and the gap is correct?

Thanks for the reply. Well the car logged 2 fault codes (not sure which ones) and battery is fine. Apparently a wire that goes to all the injectors has been rubbing on a belt and it's nearly worn right through, so the injectors haven't been getting proper power.. something so simple, as soon as the mitsu mechanic saw the codes he picked it up straight away

If it goes to all injectors it's probably a common ground (negative) wire from all six. If it's worn almost all the way through it could be severely restricted in the current it can push - and the resistance will rise as the heat rises, so that explains why it gets worse when hot.

Really? Which wire would that be, I wonder. Can you take a picture of, or describe its location, so we can all rush out and check this?

It runs over top of the black timing belt cover on the LH side of the motor if you're standing from the front of the car. Usually i think it should have a cover around the wires but this obviously perished. Car has returned to normal now and running well.
I'll be happy when I can buy this car back off my sister ($1k as is) and give it some TLC, motor and tranny still excellent with 286k on it.

This is the only pic I have of the engine bay, but it gives u an idea.

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l176/shamous69/IMAGE0028JPG.jpg

not sure , but that could be the connection to the Crank Angle Sensor , is it a fairly thin cable , black?