Hey guys i was replacing my engine mount the other day and notice that the middle bolt wasnt like the other 2.

It doesnt even tighten properly, and i was wondering if anyone had the same similar problem or know why i am missing a thread a nut and got this instead.

Pics below

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/5086/dsc00252b.jpg
By peaandham (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/peaandham) at 2010-12-23
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/4809/dsc00253vi.jpg
By peaandham (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/peaandham) at 2010-12-23

it looks like they (previous owner or mechanic) just found any old bolt obviously too long for the job and spaced it with those two nuts , why dont you buy a heap of washers to space it correctly so the bolt grabs or you could just get the proper bolt..

That bolt threads into the alloy bottom half of the engine support. It's the correct setup, two studs with nuts and a central bolt. The bolt tends to strip the thread easily. When I pulled mine off, the bolt had some alloy adhering to it, in your case pull the bolt out, and clean its threads, then see if it goes in alright. The idea is to do the two nuts up first to 100 Nm or so before you do the bolt up.

it looks like they (previous owner or mechanic) just found any old bolt obviously too long for the job and spaced it with those two nuts , why dont you buy a heap of washers to space it correctly so the bolt grabs or you could just get the proper bolt..

Please dont give such bad information, after all these 3 fastners only hold the engine in the engine bay, I am sure he would not mind the freaking engine lying on the ground at 100kmh

OP, the issue here is that the bolt often corrodes, the thread gets damaged. You need a replacement bolt they are 10 tensile, have plenty here, when your dampers arrive, remind me and I will pop one in the box for you

When you install it, remove the mount, grab yourself or get done by the Thread Doctor I think they are called, a helicoil into the thread hole, use some anti seize on the thread, this should be done any time this bolt is removed and reinstalled

can someone explain why there are two nut like things spacing the main bolt? on my tf its just a single bolt with washer.

can someone explain why there are two nut like things spacing the main bolt? on my tf its just a single bolt with washer.

His bolt looks like it might be about 2 inches longer than yours LOL

His bolt looks like it might be about 2 inches longer than yours LOL

i appreciate your humour , but it there a reason for this?

Most likely someone taking the easy way out instead of fixing the thread issue properly........a bolt he had laying around that did the trick?

Looks like something my gramps would have done

thats not even a high tensile bolt they used.

The two studs and nuts are used in the factory to align things when the engine and drivetrain are merged with the car from underneath. Shouldn't be too hard to get a bolt and alloy bottom mount part from a wreckers, or you can get yours helicoiled. Original owner probably junked the original bolt when he saw how much alloy was stuck to it. lol Mine may need helicoiling next time I do the timing belt at 200,000km, but that will be a few years off. lol

OP, the issue here is that the bolt often corrodes, the thread gets damaged. You need a replacement bolt they are 10 tensile, have plenty here, when your dampers arrive, remind me and I will pop one in the box for you


I assume you mean when my shocks arrive?

So would i put the heli coil into the hole on the motor not the mount and then feed the bolt through the mount into the helicoil?

Thanks Mal

What?

Shocks and dampers are the same thing. lol

The engine mount needs to come off. The threaded part in the alloy bottom engine mount is stripped. This is held to the engine itself with 4 bolts. It needs to be drilled out and a helicoil inserted by a workshop. Torque the 4 bolts up in the right sequence to 44Nm (top one first, then anticlockwise for the other 3), and the 2 nuts on the studs to 100 Nm, then put antiseize on a new bolt and do that up to 100 Nm. Through bolt also 100 Nm. You need a deep reach 17 mm socket on this job.

(I remember the sequence and numbers because I did the timing belt on my TJ last week. lol I looked at the bolt and went "Mmmmmm. This might need a helicoil next time." lol)

Ah so i spose i will take just pull it apart and take it to a work shop one day for them to helicoil it, either that or try to find one of those bottom engine mounts with good threads at a wreckers.

Thanks guys.

Ah so i spose i will take just pull it apart and take it to a work shop one day for them to helicoil it, either that or try to find one of those bottom engine mounts with good threads at a wreckers.

Thanks guys.

A good one is easy to identify, if you pull the bolt out and it doesn't have alloy stuck in the threads you are on the money. Even if you can't find a healthy one, grab one anyway (and the bolt) and get that helicoiled. That way its a straight swap and your car isn't off the road for too long.

Sounds like a plan.

Thanks again Max.