Question for Mal (Madmagna).

What in your opinion is the best engine oil for the 6G75 motor?

(I have searched these forums but can't get any useful hits).

I know you're a fan of Penrite.

I've used mainly Mobil 1 5W-50, my last change a week ago was Penrite HPR 10 10W-50 "extra 10" semi-synthetic.

But I'm thinking that the Penrite fully synthetic Sin 5 5W-60 "extra ten" (see here http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/sin/sin_engine_oil_5) might be better for my car.

It's done nearly 85,000k and as you know is mildy modified.

I ask because the factory spec 6G75 oil is 0W-20 or 5W-30 or 5W-40, and I'm thinking that 10W is a tiny bit heavy for a relatively young 6G75.

The Penrite Sin 5 is a bit exxy but similar to Mobil 1, so doesn't bother me.

Edit - agree with Tuffy, no such thing as 'best', what I really meant is what is the best weight of oil (5W v 10W) and is it worth paying extra for fully synthetic or is semi-synthetic plenty good enough?

castrol 5w-40 for my supercharged engine.

10w-40 is heaps good enough for a NA engine.

I have been told to use castrol by TMR.

A stock 6g75 ain't anything special in my opinion, even though it might be a pride and joy to some.

castrol 5w-40 for my supercharged engine.

10w-40 is heaps good enough for a NA engine.

I have been told to use castrol by TMR.

A stock 6g75 ain't anything special in my opinion, even though it might be a pride and joy to some.

:stoopid:
There is going to be no definitive answer on "best"......
A 10w-40 for a new engine like blackstar mentioned is perfect......once you clock up some k's on it, switch to a 15w-40 (not for some time though....)

i don't use anything other than penrite oils...
380 uses HPR-10.

actually i lie , Mobil Jet turbine oil goes into the Airbus' :)

still have 5W-50 Mobil in it

did use a 10W-40 Shell Helix once still was great but I feel the 5W-50 delivers a smoother response

I use Magnatec 10 - 40. Have done oil change last week and it's nice ride although I have only basic mods. castrol recommends magnetec or modern engine oil. M

Not a fan of magnatec or Edge

both have being used in my cars and both made it sound like a bucket of bolts

i always thought the second number is more important than the winter ('w') number. the 5w, 10w, 15w tells you how well the oil flows at cold start, it's the second number (20, 40, 50, 60) that tell you how thick the oil is at operating temperature.

so, i think ?w-60 is too thick for a 380 engine. for what it's worth i think the standard mitsubishi oil is ?w-50, and most Australian mechanics will use something like 15w-40 if there are no specific manufacturer's recommendations.

personally i'm using 10w-30 in a low mileage 3.5...seems to be working fine so no complaints here.

I am in the same camp as Mecha using the 5W50 Mobil 1. I previously used Magnatec (isn't it designed for magnas after all lol?) I do long intervals due to mostly hwy travel.

I am in the same camp as Mecha using the 5W50 Mobil 1. I previously used Magnatec (isn't it designed for magnas after all lol?) I do long intervals due to mostly hwy travel.

yeah you put me on to the stuff EHHEHEHEHEHEHE

Using mobil 1:- 0w 40 at the moment. Had a little valve train noise at start up, all gone since I changed to the mobil but it's a bit exxy though. Was previously using 5w 50 mobil 1 its good too. To my knowledge Lith is right on the money with his comments on the second number that's why I reckon 0w is probably a good thing as long as you don't thrash your car when it's cold.

Hmmm "waste of money" alarm is ringing in my ears.....

Buying anything lower than a 10w rating means that you expect to start in MINUS 20 degree cold mornings.

The first letter is the minimum temperature you expect to have the engine oil cranking at.


0w = -25 degrees
10w= -20 degrees

etc etc etc


The second letter is the SAE rating of the oil at 100 degrees C.

Any 30 or 40 is fine for aussie conditions....as long as it's a modern synthetic oil.

So are people here expecting to start their engines at -25 degrees ???? (0W-30) ???

Sounds like some are wasting their money that could be going to a supercharger or LSD....lol

Aren't both numbers both values for viscosity with the first being the value for the oil at rest (read cold) and the second being the value when hot? For example in the mobil 1 5w-50 The first number (5) basically means that when you go out and start your car early in the morning to go to work it will be the viscosity of a straight 5 grade oil, and the second being operating temp means that when the oil is at 100 deg or so it's viscosity is basically that of a 50 weight?

That's how I've always understood it. Which means that the lower the first number the better as you will have less wear on start up due to the oil already being "thinner". And as long as your second is within your regular operating range you will have good protection at operating temp. ATM I use the 5w-50 but am thinking of switching to 0w-40 to reduce pressure once it all heats up to try and increase flow. 50 seems to heavy for a relatively new engine

The first number is the temperature rating in fahrenheit....according to what I have always read...

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/9567/oilsisoils.jpg (http://img254.imageshack.us/i/oilsisoils.jpg/)

If it is -25 outside, your engine is not going to be the same temperature as if it were +20 outside when starting cold.

So yes, you're right that the first number is the oil when your engine is cold, but cold is variable number, depending on the actual outside temperature.

If it is -25 outside, your engine is not going to be the same temperature as if it were +20 outside when starting cold.

So yes, you're right that the first number is the oil when your engine is cold, but cold is variable number, depending on the actual outside temperature.



So....you agree that 0W temperature rated oil is for sub zero temperatures whether measured at the engine or the air temperature?....lol

Hmmm "waste of money" alarm is ringing in my ears.....

Buying anything lower than a 10w rating means that you expect to start in MINUS 20 degree cold mornings.

The first letter is the minimum temperature you expect to have the engine oil cranking at.


0w = -25 degrees
10w= -20 degrees

etc etc etc


The second letter is the SAE rating of the oil at 100 degrees C.

Any 30 or 40 is fine for aussie conditions....as long as it's a modern synthetic oil.

So are people here expecting to start their engines at -25 degrees ???? (0W-30) ???

Sounds like some are wasting their money that could be going to a supercharger or LSD....lol
Sounds like all the mods you're doin you should have some other alarms going:hmm:

My this thread is getting a bit heated lol maybe we need to chill out lol funny bugger. I tend to agree a bit with Blackie that the 0W is probably a tad on the overkill side for oz.

Let's do a calculation and put this to an end once and for all.

Mobil 0w40: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.aspx
Vis@40'c - 75cSt
Vis@100'c - 13.5cSt

Mobil 5w50 : http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-50.aspx
Vis@40'c - 108cSt
Vis@100'c - 17.5cSt

Using this Viscosity calculator: http://www.eskoindustries.com/viscadv.php?Deg=C&Temp1=40&Visc1=108&Temp2=100&Visc2=17.5&Temp=15&Calc=Calc

We set a target temperature at 10'c, avg Melbourne winter temperature.

Mobil 0w40 Vis@10'c - 232.2 cSt
Mobil 5w50 Vis@10'c - 358.3 cSt

5w50 is 54% thicker or 126.1 cSt thicker when temperature hit 10'c compare to Mobil 0w40. Our engine need a hot operating viscosity of around 12cSt@100'c.

So is 126.1 cSt significant at start up? hell yah when you consider 70-80% of engine wear occur at start-up, not at operating temperature.

Let's do a calculation and put this to an end once and for all.

Mobil 0w40: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.aspx
Vis@40'c - 75cSt
Vis@100'c - 13.5cSt

Mobil 5w50 : http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5W-50.aspx
Vis@40'c - 108cSt
Vis@100'c - 17.5cSt

Using this Viscosity calculator: http://www.eskoindustries.com/viscadv.php?Deg=C&Temp1=40&Visc1=108&Temp2=100&Visc2=17.5&Temp=15&Calc=Calc

We set a target temperature at 10'c, avg Melbourne winter temperature.

Mobil 0w40 Vis@10'c - 232.2 cSt
Mobil 5w50 Vis@10'c - 358.3 cSt

5w50 is 54% thicker or 126.1 cSt thicker when temperature hit 10'c compare to Mobil 0w40. Our engine need a hot operating viscosity of around 12cSt@100'c.

So is 126.1 cSt significant at start up? hell yah when you consider 70-80% of engine wear occur at start-up, not at operating temperature.

Yep, this is pretty much what Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG) says.

All other things equal, the lower the first number the better for cold start engine protection.

He has an extensive range of hi-po cars (Fazzas, Lambos, Maybach etc) and he uses 0W-20 in most of them.

Obviously a mere 380/6G75 isn't in the same class, but I'm now confident that 5W whatever is better than 10W whatever for my car. I could go to 0W but that's getting very exxy and 5W should be OK. Bought 5L of Penrite HPR Sin 5 5W-60 a couple of days ago from Repco for only $54, last day of their 25% off sale.
Will use it for the next oil change (still 9,500k off).

You mean Sin 5 5w40 right? From the PDS, i did a calculation and it's no better than Mobil 5w50 at 10'c, 357.6 cSt. Choose any 5w30 fully syn oil, i'm sure the results would be better.

Just did a check on RP 5w30: http://www.royalpurple.com.au/pdf_street/p1a_rp_motor_oil.pdf

Not bad, 211cSt at 10'c and 11cSt at 100'c.
This is the type of viscosity that i'm after for my stock 380. For those super or turbo charge 380, use your highest operating engine oil temperature and did a calculation yourself, you should be able to find a viscosity that is just right for you.

You mean Sin 5 5w40 right? From the PDS, i did a calculation and it's no better than Mobil 5w50 at 10'c, 357.6 cSt. Choose any 5w30 fully syn oil, i'm sure the results would be better.

'sfar as I can see from the Penrite SIN pages (start here http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/sin) they don't make SIN 5W-40.

The range appears to be 0W-50, 5W-60, 10W-70, 15W-50 & 20W-60. All of them labelled 'extra 10' as in the last number.

I'm not expecting the HPR SIN 5W-60 to be any better than Mobil 1 5W-50 which I have used most of the time, I'm expecting it to be on a par.

But Penrite is an Aussie product and I'd rather buy local if the quality & value are there.

.............. hell yah when you consider 70-80% of engine wear occur at start-up, not at operating temperature.


can I ask that you please prove evidence to back that claim?

......Will use it for the next oil change (still 9,500k off).



If I were you i would skip paying for the 5w oil and instead use 10w oil...but twice as often.

It's a contradiction to want race car oils protection and then wait 10,000+ kilometres between changes....don't you agree?

'sfar as I can see from the Penrite SIN pages (start here http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/motor-oil/sin) they don't make SIN 5W-40.

The range appears to be 0W-50, 5W-60, 10W-70, 15W-50 & 20W-60. All of them labelled 'extra 10' as in the last number.

I'm not expecting the HPR SIN 5W-60 to be any better than Mobil 1 5W-50 which I have used most of the time, I'm expecting it to be on a par.

But Penrite is an Aussie product and I'd rather buy local if the quality & value are there.

Just saw it. Did the calculation and it's not pretty, 449.6 cSt @10'c, that's massively thick.

can I ask that you please prove evidence to back that claim?

How can wear not occur when your engine is designed to run 9.3-16.3 cSt @ 100'c with 200-400 cSt oil viscosity? Anyway, link from

Castrol : http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp?txtFragmentModelDesc=&txtWhichListboxChanged=2&txtEnterHit=&lstEquipment=2&lstMake=111&lstModel=10128

Nulon (click detail infor): http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Anti-Wear%20Engine%20Treatment/

Or if you need more technical details: S.A.E. Technical Papers # 780370, 3790729, #790751, #821204, #821206 and #821247

http://www.sae.org/

i'm also running penrite
15/60 semi synthetic no problems here :)
http://images.lasoomedia1.com.au/imageicon/SCA/PROD/J00510496/C_001/Page_001/SCA_PROD_J00510496_C_001_Page_001_i0083.jpg

How can wear not occur when your engine is designed to run 9.3-16.3 cSt @ 100'c with 200-400 cSt oil viscosity? Anyway, link from

Castrol : http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp?txtFragmentModelDesc=&txtWhichListboxChanged=2&txtEnterHit=&lstEquipment=2&lstMake=111&lstModel=10128

Nulon (click detail infor): http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Anti-Wear%20Engine%20Treatment/

Or if you need more technical details: S.A.E. Technical Papers # 780370, 3790729, #790751, #821204, #821206 and #821247

http://www.sae.org/

10w-40 is what I already knew to be the best oil for a 6g75.


I think your 75% wear statistic is based on an oil retailer trying to promote his oil.
or based on a mum's car that does morning school runs and never warms up.

Sure engine wear occurs more when doing short trips.....but that scenario can't be used as a justification for using unnecessarily premium oil.

Fellas fellas fellas. Black & Gold oil FTW......

Alright that was a joke. I am sorta with blackstar on this, I just use whatever the mechanic puts in, seems like a waste of money looking for high quality synthetic oils in a standard production V6. I think from memory the mechanic uses 10W 30 valvoline.

I found this very entertaining, Im about to do my first service on my relatively new 380, looks like im going for 10-40w, thats what seems to be the overall understanding from this thread/argument...

Since my 380 came out of warranty I now use the same oil I used to put in the 3.0 ltr Verada, which went over 300,000 km before burning out a valve (sound familar ? big problem with the 6G72 engines).

Good old 20w-50 mineral oil, now SL rated, I buy whenever the sales are on and get a bargain 5 ltr pack reduced from around $25 for only $10 ! Have absolutely no preference for oil manufacturer but currently use Gulf Western, whatever oil this grade which is on sale when I need it goes into the engine, changing oil + filter every 10,000 km. Engine runs great on el cheapo oil, just like the Verada used to years ago.

Since my 380 came out of warranty I now use the same oil I used to put in the 3.0 ltr Verada, which went over 300,000 km before burning out a valve (sound familar ? big problem with the 6G72 engines).

Good old 20w-50 mineral oil, now SL rated, I buy whenever the sales are on and get a bargain 5 ltr pack reduced from around $25 for only $10 ! Have absolutely no preference for oil manufacturer but currently use Gulf Western, whatever oil this grade which is on sale when I need it goes into the engine, changing oil + filter every 10,000 km. Engine runs great on el cheapo oil, just like the Verada used to years ago.

Are you serious! You use the cheapest oil you can find on a near new motor. SO your Verada did near 300k, prob would have done many more if you had not done this. If oyu want to skimp a few $$ and destroy a good engine then that is fine please dont recommend this to others. Oh and burning Valves on the 3.0 is NOT a big probem on the 6G72's either on the 12v or the 24v motors, was a bit of an issue with the 2.6 but even then most of them broke timing chains or blew head gaskets long before valves burnt out lol

To answer the question, I only use Penrite, many dealerships also use Penrite as well. I use either HPR10 or for those who dont mind a few more $$ the Syn5

Also, only use genuine oil filters, many of the aftermarket ones are multifit and the pressure valve in them is set too low for these engines

Just to add my 2 cents. The guy I bought my 380 from is the workshop foreman for VW/Mitsubishi/Subaru dealer here on the Sunshine Coast. He told me to use a good quality 5W-30 oil, and suggested Castrol as the brand. I'm going to take his advice and get probably Castrol 5W-30 for my first oil change.

I also agree with Mal about oil filters. I'll always get genuine filters from now on. The Ryco/cheap crap ones have become very bad over the last couple years, IMO.

Low quality oil generally means the oil additives deteriorate quicker, and you end up putting more stress on the engine over time. I buy premium oil and change as often as 5000 - 7000 kms...I also change my oil filter at each oil change. I can afford to not be cheap.

Alarmists what scientific empirical data do you have that expensive oil protects your engine any better than 20w-50 SL mineral oil ? If you feel good about using expensive oil that's cool by me, but don't knock my methodology, 20w-50 SL works fine with shortened 10k service intervals. If you bother to check in your manual it states that 20w-50 SG (or higher) is ok to use, these engines are designed / built using old technology from yesteryear, 6G75 is just a common old combustion engine when all said and done.

There are many factors which cause oil to deteriorate fast, eg high ambient air temperatures, high rev use causing high oil operating temperatures. Of course synthetic will out live mineral, but we get hammered on pricing downunder by the oil companies, oil + petrol, just compare prices in the USA to here . My 380 get's no abuse at all, the engine runs smooth and quiet all day everyday in sunny QLD . I think some of you need to read the oil forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com and gain some insight into the fluid you pour into your sump.

Here's another interesting read : http://www.aa1car.com/library/how_often_change_oil.htm

SO your Verada did near 300k, prob would have done many more if you had not done this.

Well my friend when the mechanics replaced the single problem valve, they reported that this was a common occurrence in the 6G72 engine ! They also reported that overall the 13 year old, 305,000 km engine was in perfect health, clean as a whistle, probably due to my strict maintenance regime.

Changing oil every 10,000kms would be once every 9 months or so for me. $70 for oil + filter once every 9 months I would consider acceptable. I'm going to change oil every 7,500kms in my 380, and use a good quality synthetic oil too. I don't see the point to use a lower grade oil that might do the same job, when the fully synthetic stuff and piece of mind is only another $50 or so every 9 months to a year.

It's a bit like buying cheap toilet paper. Sure it does the same job, but at what cost?

Just my experience: When I bought my 380GT I asked the dealer where the car was serviced - and he said that they used Castrol 10w-40 in all the 380 logbook services. Thats what I've been using since, no problems yet.

Just changed my 380 using royal purple 10w30, i don't know if it's psycho effect but it sure feel more powerful than the Amsoil 5w30 that i last used.

You all talk about oil weights, but no mention at all about what the manufacturer specifies in terms of oil standards like ACEA rating. It is important that these guidelines are followed and you use oil that equals or exceeds manufacturer specs.

MEh you fill up with 98 and then put shit oil in you are doing it wrong

Oil is like your blood and the oil filter your kidneys
fuel is the food you eat

would not waste money on Royal purple but would on Helix ultra, Valvoline syn, Mobil 1 or Penrite SIN cause I can

would put RP trans fluid in the tranny though!

Im going to chime in here and back up everyone else about quality oils... and in fact there are many scientific tests:
Heres one from another club im a member of andthis is oneof themost comprehensive seizure tests:
http://forum.pulsar.org.au/showthread.php/58053-Engine-Oil-Testing-results?

And here are a few more:
http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

As for the question about wear at startup, this only happens to engines using filters without antidrainback valves. Its purpose is to leave oil in the head instead of it all falling back to the sump.. you will notice carsthat dont have this as the first 10secs after satup soundreally rattley

I personally use royal purple and nulon, but moreso nulon now for the 6g. In previous cars ive had (that do not burn oil because its expensive) i would invest in this as this brand has been proven to have no viscosty loss until at least 20000km... its good for the lazy...
http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/high-performance-5w40/
Only place to get it i know of in Aus is www.gccorp.com.au

You all talk about oil weights, but no mention at all about what the manufacturer specifies in terms of oil standards like ACEA rating. It is important that these guidelines are followed and you use oil that equals or exceeds manufacturer specs.

Your Renault is a European car and must advise using ACEA rated oils only ? ACEA is a Euro oil specification, the API specification is from the USA. The Mitsi car manuals list using ACEA or API , either spec will do, if you bought in Japan it would probably advise using a JASO spec. In my case the oil I use is API 20w-50 SL (ACEA spec will never be given a single thought when I buy oil).

Cheers, interesting info

hey - providing that the blog is still about "best oil" ;-)

I am using right now for about 5k Castrol Edge 5-40 about $55 for 5l. the oil got quite dark now after 5k but fuel consumption dropped dramatically. i have same set up (car drive line) since March 2011 and had Magnatec 10-40, then some cheapo from mechanic (for about 5k km) and now changed it to 5k Castrol Edge 5-40. my fuel consumption dropped from about 15l/100km to roughly 12.5l/100km - cant say why - driving the same distances... happy with that...

Im going to chime in here and back up everyone else about quality oils... and in fact there are many scientific tests:
Heres one from another club im a member of andthis is oneof themost comprehensive seizure tests:
http://forum.pulsar.org.au/showthread.php/58053-Engine-Oil-Testing-results? And here are a few more:
http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

http://forum.pulsar.org.au/showthread.php/58053-Engine-Oil-Testing-results?

Interesting read but hardly proven science from an accredited testing laboratory ????

But this one http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oi...nst_oils.shtml

Now this is without doubt the first time I have seen such a comparison between oils done, very very interesting anaylis but once again not performed by an accredited lab, howeve the results show :

1- Notice the mineral Shell Helix Plus 20w-50 Maximum Torque: 303.1 @ 3900rpm AND Maximum HP: 256.2 @ 4900rpm COST $23.75 (5ltr)

2- Notice the synthetic Mobil 1 0w-40 (best performer) Maximum Torque: 318.3 @ 3700rpm AND Maximum HP: 270.5 @ 4950rpm COST $94.00 (4ltr)

The metal wear test results also show the el cheapo 20w-50 mineral oil being on par with the synthetics, now for me to spend money on these expensive synthetics I would expect to see a huge difference in performance. When all we have in difference from the lowest torque/hp to the highest torque/hp is around 5 % plus a drop in RPM also of around 5 % (meaning less fuel used).

While there is an obvious cost saving in fuel, it's hardly by a staggering percentage, 5 % only ???? Unless you run this oil for extended service intervals the 5 % gained merely goes to pay the extra cost on the oil.

Anyway thanks for the links which I enjoyed reading and comparing the oils.

404 error on that link champ.

Buying oils is like buying toilet paper. Any will do the intended job, but it's up to you which you buy.

Well my friend when the mechanics replaced the single problem valve, they reported that this was a common occurrence in the 6G72 engine ! They also reported that overall the 13 year old, 305,000 km engine was in perfect health, clean as a whistle, probably due to my strict maintenance regime.

Well for starters, I am not your friend, thank god

Secondly, just ignore me, I have only been working on these cars for the last god knows the number of years. Hell, some mechanics say Lada' are good cars, hey all, lets scrap out Mitsu's and all go out and buy a Lada after all a Mechanic said so

So this is a little lesson to this forum sunshine. Dont come on here, make a piss ant comment on a thread that YOU mined that had not been commented on for over 9 months and not expect us to sit back and laugh at you. Oh and please post up the details of your car so none of us are unfortunate enough to buy this car someday in the future with your detergant soaked engine

I do know what I am talking about as I HAVE DONE tests on various oils in the past, I paid a lot of $$ to test several oils and add to this the fact that I go through so much oil on all of my customers cars and have fixed many an issue by putting good quality oil back in place of cheap crap which is often the cause for issues in these motors.

Oh and one last thing, tell your "mechanic" to check his engines and facts, I have worked on many many 6G72 both of the S and S4 variety, in all these years I have not yet seen a burnt out valve. I have seen many head gaskets on these, stem seals go but not burnt Valves. The 2.6 as I stated before I have seen these go but even then not that often

So this is a little lesson to this forum sunshine. Dont come on here, make a piss ant comment on a thread that YOU mined that had not been commented on for over 9 months and not expect us to sit back and laugh at you. Oh and please post up the details of your car so none of us are unfortunate enough to buy this car someday in the future with your detergant soaked engine

[QUOTE=Madmagna;1444991]So this is a little lesson to this forum sunshine. Dont come on here, make a piss ant comment Oh and please post up the details of your car so none of us are unfortunate enough to buy this car someday in the future with your detergant soaked engine

Oh and one last thing, tell your "mechanic" to check his engines and facts, I have worked on many many 6G72 both of the S and S4 variety, in all these years I have not yet seen a burnt out valve. I have seen many head gaskets on these, stem seals go but not burnt Valves.

1 Piss ass ?? That 20w-50 mineral oil properly scheduled on regular maintenance actually works ? Get real, it works and the tests results on here prove it : http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oi...nst_oils.shtml

2 My car is not for sale bro, another 13 year & 300,000 km coming up, so don't worry about it turning up in your workshop any day soon.

3 The valve burning out was not caused by the oil being used, old age, never having had valve clearances checked and never having been adjusted, shit happens !

4 You may be an excellent mechanic but that does not make you an oil expert, being neither a Tribologist or Chemical engineer you should look to the appliance of science and hold an open mind.

5 There are very few crappy oils on the market, especially given an API rating , crappy car owners are the problem, the ones who don't service their engines regularly raking up double service intervals or thrashing the living daylights out of their engines. These are cause of the results you see in your workshop.

6 Detergent in oil ? Calcium primarily, well well well you might just be surprised to learn that synthetic oils have very high ppm levels of calcium, much higher than levels found in el cheapo mineral oil. In fact many synthetics have similar levels of calcium that are found in Heavy duty diesel oils.

7 Let's concentrate on the science and leave personalities out, if you cannot agree to this then go tell all your angry outbursts to someone who truly gives a $%@#. No leasons to be learnt here bro'.

So mr expert how do you adjust tappet clearances on a 6g72, oh that's right you can't

Angry outbursts. You are clearly on the wrong track as people like you don't anger me. They make me feel sorry for you and the facrtthat you have nothing better in your life but to search google for your big words

This thread has now run its course...no more value to add, thank you everyone for your contributions.

Bill (GTVi)