Hi everyone, my air con stopped working all of a sudden a few weeks ago (TF Magna).
Today it was regassed due to being slightly low but it's still blowing out warm air, also when the air con is switched on a loud high pitched noise comes from the engine bay (louder since regas).
Original symptoms were, coldish for 1 - 2 minutes, then warm for an hour or so, cold for 30 seconds, warm again for ages, since regas it's just warm...

$88 pissed away..

The air con dude said it would be around $480 to replace a the valve which converts the gas to liquid (TX valve?) which he is sure is the problem, he did say he'd take some $$$ off the $480 since he already charged for a pointless regas

Is this a fair price? and does anyone know where the valve is located? if it's behind the dash I may be able to save some $$$ by removing some of the dash myself before taking it in.

Thanks.

not so sure about the switch, BUT my aircon worked fine during the winter, then this summer went to use it and only got warm air, took it to auto sparkys and they said that the electrics within the compressor were fooked, so it was trying to engage and looked like it was working normally but it wasnt. he then said new air con was 1200 new and 600 for fittin...thats where i walked out hahaha. just thought id let ya know

If the TX valve is on the firewall, it shouldn't be anywhere near the $480 mark to replace. If they're anything like the commodore ones, all that should need to be done is a vac and gas recover, change over the TX valve, replace the O rings and regas the system.

I'd be checking that the A/C clutch is actually engaging. You should notice the revs change when the A/C button is pressed. And also that the correct amount of gas was charged into the system as too much will stop it from working.

yeah, revs drop when air con is engaged and I can hear the fan kick in as normal.

can't see it anywhere in the engine bay.. hmm.

have u looked in the workshop manual?

tx is mounted on the evaporator behind the dash
i usually charge it out around that price ($450) depending upon tx type, airbox cleanliness etc.
$88 for a regas you'd die if you had to pay WA rates lol

i should also add that if the system is contaminated then a new receiver drier and a flush will be required.... best to ask for the tx after the job is complete (if its black inside then the system needs cleaning otherwise it will just block up again.... usually out of warranty)

As above, on all of the models before TL they are mounted on teh evap inside the car, now you do not need to pull out the dash to get this little sucker out, just the fan box which is a prick of a job but can be done no worries IF you know what you are doing.

Also, again you pay for what you get, regas without a new filter is like doing an oil change and not changing the oil filter, if this guy who did the job was worth half a grain of salt he would have looked at the pressures and then seen there was enough gas to make the system work and then looked elsewhere, I bet also that the fans and comp were kicking in before but he just failed to check

If you want to go cheaper, you can always put in a secondhand unit, although most aircon guys dont like using a secondhand unit, they do work as all the air con in my car are secondhand out of a TL (thus the TX valve is on the firewall now not inside the car)

you do not need to pull out the dash to get this little sucker out, just the fan box which is a prick of a job.

he would have looked at the pressures and then seen there was enough gas to make the system work and then looked elsewhere


its not necessary to remove the fan box, i've done plenty without removing the box

in the technicians defense, the system may not have had sufficient gas to test.... but then again after he re gassed it, he should have called the customer to let them know that the tx needed fixing, then depending upon the customers response reclaimed the gas and either decommissioned the system or fixed the tx.

As above, on all of the models before TL they are mounted on teh evap inside the car, now you do not need to pull out the dash to get this little sucker out, just the fan box which is a prick of a job but can be done no worries IF you know what you are doing.

Also, again you pay for what you get, regas without a new filter is like doing an oil change and not changing the oil filter, if this guy who did the job was worth half a grain of salt he would have looked at the pressures and then seen there was enough gas to make the system work and then looked elsewhere, I bet also that the fans and comp were kicking in before but he just failed to check

If you want to go cheaper, you can always put in a secondhand unit, although most aircon guys dont like using a secondhand unit, they do work as all the air con in my car are secondhand out of a TL (thus the TX valve is on the firewall now not inside the car)

Yeah, fan and comp were all kicking in before, it just went warm while driving out of the blue a few weeks ago.
hmm, how much does a 2nd hand TL system go for? I can remove the dash myself and swap it over if I can get the system purged of gas.
May work out cheaper..

its not necessary to remove the fan box, i've done plenty without removing the box

in the technicians defense, the system may not have had sufficient gas to test.... but then again after he re gassed it, he should have called the customer to let them know that the tx needed fixing, then depending upon the customers response reclaimed the gas and either decommissioned the system or fixed the tx.

He wasn't able to source a TX valve on the day, plus with xmas and a new baby (born today at 1:07am) we don't have $500 sitting around.

Gee ASA is helpful
Part number AW349191
I think it was Mal who said you can replace these without removing the dash?
I'll have a look tomorrow now that I have an idea where to look.

I'll give Mits a call and see how much they are, hopefully the air con guys will be happy with me fitting it then them filling the system.
Having trouble locating the filter that someone else mentioned..

just remember you will be breaking the law, and you could get injured if you open the system and vent the gas. also you will need 10 a/c o'rings and a/c oil to lube them + cork tape... also if the system is filthy then your gonna need a/c flush ($100/4lt) and a flushing gun (also a compressor to charge the gun)
if a customer came into our shop and told us that they changed the tx and need a regas, then we'd say good luck with that....
i'd prioritize my spending and get it done professionally

aftermarket part #'s
tx valve: TX1023
drier: RD7039
flush: OG1011
gun: TO9024

First of all, dont know if a lot of people here are still hung over from New Years Eve or what but the spam in these tech sections is to stop or people may be getting longer holidays then they first counted on

Now, about the above post, if your comp etc were still kicking in then your aircon guy is a moron for even trying to regas before he found the issue

And as above, yes you should get professionally done but then again if the system is properly purges prior, there is nothing stopping you fitting the parts provided you do lube the new "O: rings, not sure why the hell you need 10 of them given that I did not use that many last time I did one but either way is not a job that requires rocket science. If oyu have issues getting a re gas, I have a guy who comes here and does all my cars and actually knows what he is doing

First of all, dont know if a lot of people here are still hung over from New Years Eve or what but the spam in these tech sections is to stop or people may be getting longer holidays then they first counted on

Now, about the above post, if your comp etc were still kicking in then your aircon guy is a moron for even trying to regas before he found the issue

And as above, yes you should get professionally done but then again if the system is properly purges prior, there is nothing stopping you fitting the parts provided you do lube the new "O: rings, not sure why the hell you need 10 of them given that I did not use that many last time I did one but either way is not a job that requires rocket science. If oyu have issues getting a re gas, I have a guy who comes here and does all my cars and actually knows what he is doing

a low gas system can still kick in and has similar symptoms to a u/s tx
in my experience, 99% of the repairers wont degas and decommission an a/c system, so i'd exercise caution... if the compressor kicks in its not safe
i know everyone hates the govt pissing on their parade but only licensed individuals are allowed to repair a/c systems.... for example the panel beaters next door have to get us to fit and connect up the condensors etc.


sorry my cock up tis only 8 o'rings
(never reuse an o'ring)
tx valve = 3 o'rings (in, out, eq)
evap = 2 o'rings (in, out)
drier = 3 o'rings (in, out, sw)

further info: http://www.arctick.org/faq_main.php
(just found out the fine for individuals is now only $1000 per offence....only 2 weeks wages... better that 2 years wages)
and if anyone cares: RHL# L015088

a low gas system can still kick in and has similar symptoms to a u/s tx
in my experience, 99% of the repairers wont degas and decommission an a/c system, so i'd exercise caution... if the compressor kicks in its not safe
i know everyone hates the govt pissing on their parade but only licensed individuals are allowed to repair a/c systems.... for example the panel beaters next door have to get us to fit and connect up the condensors etc.


sorry my cock up tis only 8 o'rings
(never reuse an o'ring)
tx valve = 3 o'rings (in, out, eq)
evap = 2 o'rings (in, out)
drier = 3 o'rings (in, out, sw)

further info: http://www.arctick.org/faq_main.php
(just found out the fine for individuals is now only $1000 per offence....only 2 weeks wages... better that 2 years wages)
and if anyone cares: RHL# L015088

hmm, I'll just try to remove as much as possible to make things easier to get to and leave it to the air con dude.

OK.
TX Valve replaced, $480 later I now don't have air con until after around 2000/rpm, before that it's hot air (like the heater hot air).
The guy says my compressor is stuffed as well.

I'm a bit suss because before I took it in the first time for the regas it was just 'not cold', after picking it up the air was hot at any time, now after the tx valve replacement it's hot at idle, cold at 2000rpm+

yeah classic symptom of a tired compressor, but seriously this guy should have been more thorough in his diagnostics
a TX that is stuck open allows liquid refrigerant to flow into the compressor, which is a vapour pump and really hates liquid.

TX valve stuck open has the same pressure symptoms as a worn compressor (Low Side: High, High Side: Low), however the line temps and sight glass symptoms are vastly different.

but now that the TX is good the compreesor needs more RPM's to do the same work as it should be able to do at idle

did you seen this symbol anywhere?
http://www.arctick.org/images/top_right_img.gif

if so you may have an avenue to follow for assistance, if he isn't willing to come to the party on a resolution

ie when replacing the compressor, he shouldnt charge you for degassing, regassing (at least thats how it would roll in our workshop if this ever happened, we would rather tell the customer up front that they are looking at $XXXX than to do a half assed job that turns around to bite us

Is that the VACC tick? they are VACC accredited.
I see compressors are around $65 on Ebay, hopefully they will fit a second hand one, I don't see why not, even if I have to get them to agree that there's no guarantee.
So, from what your saying the TX valve dying is probably what killed the compressor?
Before all this happened it blew out cold air at idle and ice cold are athigher rpm

Have you checked that the flap that cuts off the hot air from the heater is actually fully closed when it should be?

Have you checked that the flap that cuts off the hot air from the heater is actually fully closed when it should be?

No, I was thinking that.. because the air is hot rather than nuetral like the heater is on (on low setting) I might check that today once it cools down a bit, all the rain lately has made it horribly humid out.

I see TJ-TW compressors are on Ebay a bit cheaper, I may get more life out of one of these, not sure if they fit though?
I'd likely need to change brackets but not sure about belt length and connectors etc.

An easy way to check is to warm up the car, then with heater and aircon off, set the fan on low. If hot air pours out of the vents, you know you have a hot air leak and the aircon is struggling to overcome the hot air.

An easy temp fix is to bypass the heater core, but keep coolant in the core itself if you can (a loop of hose on the heater connections would do it) so the thing doesn't dry out and cause leaks later.

If that really is the problem, you need to check the linkages and the flap, but I've never done that so I don't know how hard/easy that is.

An easy way to check is to warm up the car, then with heater and aircon off, set the fan on low. If hot air pours out of the vents, you know you have a hot air leak and the aircon is struggling to overcome the hot air.

An easy temp fix is to bypass the heater core, but keep coolant in the core itself if you can (a loop of hose on the heater connections would do it) so the thing doesn't dry out and cause leaks later.

If that really is the problem, you need to check the linkages and the flap, but I've never done that so I don't know how hard/easy that is.

Yeah, flap is closing I can hear the thud as it closes
2nd hand compressor is around $85 delivered, shouldn't be more than an hours labour to change it, just spewing I can't do it myself because of the gas :(

find out if the repairer will degas the system so you can take it away and fit the replacement, then have them connect the hoses and regas the system
if you go down the 2nd hand path then just make sure the compressor you get is clean inside, that the shaft turns freely, the pulley bearing is quiet, and that you can hear it pumping when turned by hand

find out if the repairer will degas the system so you can take it away and fit the replacement, then have them connect the hoses and regas the system
if you go down the 2nd hand path then just make sure the compressor you get is clean inside, that the shaft turns freely, the pulley bearing is quiet, and that you can hear it pumping when turned by hand

Will see what they say, I've found a compressor on Ebay.
Aparently there's a few different ones, I can't find the model number on mine, does anyone know what the differences are?

What model car is it? I have several here, they are sealed when removed from the car after my air con guy vac's the system

So you thought was TX valve, now comp, why the change?

What model car is it? I have several here, they are sealed when removed from the car after my air con guy vac's the system

So you thought was TX valve, now comp, why the change?

You'd have to ask the air con guys that, they changed the tx valve and then told me the compressor must be on it's way out.
It's a TF Altera, 3.0L I can't find the part number on the compressor though, I didn't have a super good look.

edit: the problem went like this

1 Air con stopped working, just blowing air roughly the temp of the cabin.
2 Had the system regassed was told the tx valve was gone, after this I noticed the air coming out was suddenly much warmer (like the air coming off the engine warm) than before and the compressor was now noisy.
3 Had tx valve replaced, air is warm at idle but gets cold above 2k rpm, which for driving around town is no good unless I drive in 3rd and hold the throttle at 2k when stopped lol

i actually wrote up a nice response earlier, but the forum had a hissy fit and icbf writing it out again

suffice to say the tx fed liquid refrigerant into the compressor which is a vapor pump, and now the compressor has been hurt to the point that it needs more rpms to do the same work.

id say based on your model this is your compressor:
http://www.cooldrive.com.au/part_images/CM1501.jpg

Yup, looks the same, where'd you find that pic?

Yup, looks the same, where'd you find that pic?

one of my suppliers websites... they dont sell to the public

I'll grab a 2nd handie off Mal and go from there, thanks everyone.

I've had a few people ask why I want the air con fixed, I should pull out their relays and ask them the same question lol, I hate driving in a hot tin can.
Plus, I don't like wiping my windscreen every five minutes with a towel in winter.

besides that you've got a kid now and they dont fare too well in hot cars.
lets hope the one you get off mal is good :pray: (im sure it will be)

besides that you've got a kid now and they dont fare too well in hot cars.
lets hope the one you get off mal is good :pray: (im sure it will be)

We have 3 kids :)
I'm feel more comfortable getting one off Mal than someone on Ebay.

Well, went down the wreckers today and to my surprise they had a compressor for $50, they couldn't tell me how many k's were on it but it seems ok.
I'll package it away for a while and focus on something else, air con is working so long as revs are above 1500, at 60 it's cool enough, drops off < 50 so I change to third for a bit lol.
Went for a drive to Healsville yesterday and it was actually freezing us on the highways.

Bugger, I didn't look too well, spewing I can't find the sticker on mine.
I ended up with a MSC105C mine is obviously the MSC105CF as it looks like this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MITSUBISHI-TF-MAGNA-AIR-CONDITIOING-COMPRESSOR-V6-3LTR-/180613926055?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0d6dcca7
Is it possible to adapt the MSC105C to fit, the hose connections are in different orientation looks like this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MITSUBISHI-VERADA-KF-98-AIR-CON-COMPRESSOR-/160530276340?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2560599ff4
No refunds either.

I have one here on a TF I am about to remove, let me know if you want it, is still on a working car, system is being degassed today when my aircon guy arrives

I have one here on a TF I am about to remove, let me know if you want it, is still on a working car, system is being degassed today when my aircon guy arrives

How much do you want for it?

Air con compressors are $85

I'll get back to you by the end of the day, just gotta look at budget and when I can drive down.
Thanks.

Air con compressors are $85

Hi Mal, I've emailed you about the compressor.
I can drive down on Friday to get it.

Aircon place are happy to degass, I fit then they'll regass with a new receiver etc.

Bought one off Ebay, it's the right one this time.
Should arrive by Friday I hope then I should have aircon at idle again !

i got a tl magna vrx and i just got my aircon fixed 2 weeks ago wat they found on my magna was that the had to replac te evaporator, tx valve, drier and gas it cost me $450 all up
tx valve is only $50

i got a tl magna vrx and i just got my aircon fixed 2 weeks ago wat they found on my magna was that the had to replac te evaporator, tx valve, drier and gas it cost me $450 all up
tx valve is only $50

That is certainly a very good price - evap would be a couple of hundred alone as well plus the labour to R/R.