Hi all Im new to this site I found it while looking for an answer to my problem im having with my 94 KS Verada sedan V6 auto, when its cold, say I go to start the car in the morning to go to work, It starts fine but soon as you put it into gear it wont go it just splutters while trying to press the ACC pedal slow or quickly, but if I let it warm up (say 5 mins) it drives of no worries, what could it be?

Things I have replaced/checked
new thermostat, fuel filter, air filter, oil filter & oil (engine & trans), new spark plug leads and plugs, air filter and cleaned all the connectors (for the TPS etc) with contact cleaner and cleaned the MAF with MAf cleaning spray & set the timing, problem still persists but only within the first 5 mins or so of morning starts and trying to drive off, I can push the pedal to the floor and it just about dies. but once its warmed up its like a new car?

Maybe the coolant temp sensor?

any help would be great guys/girls would be much appreciated

What does it idle at after a cold start? It should go up to 1500 to 2000 rpm, depending on how cold air temperature is. If it just sits there at normal hot idle, like 800 rpm, you should check the ISC to see if it is still working.

yes starts up goes to between 1300-1800RPM then idles back to 1000-1100Rpm, its like an old carby car without a choke and you have to feather the throttle to get it to move but if its in Park or Neutral it revs fine, its like its load related.

I have also had a new exhaust put on it too, it did this before I replaced anything on the car and after all I have spent on it its still doing it, I need to fix the problem so that I can get the RWC to transfer it into my partner and I's name

could it be the O2 sensor?

Id go to an auto elecs and get the diagnostics machine hooked up so you can see what all of your sensors are doing....better then just guessing if one is dead...

Wont be o2 as the car doesnt use it when cold.

;1350503']Id go to an auto elecs and get the diagnostics machine hooked up so you can see what all of your sensors are doing....better then just guessing if one is dead...

Trouble is Im close to 400k from an AUTO electrician lol thats why I thought Id see what I could do to check by my self, lol

could be a vac leak. If you have the manual and a volt memter you can start testing this like tps voltages and what not. These things can help grately. ALso if you have a dirty/blocked coolant system the cold start valve (bolted to underside of TB) can be clogged, not seeing full cold signal.

Checked the cold start valve seems to be working and free I cant find what the TPS voltage is suppose to be but when the TPS is unpluged it runs very similar to when its plugged in but only just a little better once its connected, whats the voltage supposed to be ? ive changed ecu's and no difference....

Also I noticed if you try to rush it to get it to go it pops like a back fire into the airbox but only within the first 5 mins of start up.

Ive adjusted the TPS and made no difference but responds better once warm.

I have this same problem with my auto. I figure it is the gearbox fluid being cold, and therefore thicker, making it difficult for the torque converter. As with yours mine chugs and nearly stalls if ran straight from cold, and even occasionally after the engine has reached op temp. My 2c from my experience not neccesarily the answer.

Hi, May be air flow meter. Also may be the ECU the part of it that controls the cold start may be screwed.
The next time your near the big smoke you should have it looked.

You guys have some problems that need sorting as the car should be able to get up and go from cold just as good as it does when hot. Both of mine have and still do do this.

How do I check the MAF sensor? any help please car goes for RWC tomorrow