Can someone please show me where the body electronics module or body control module (body computer) is on a 380 and what it looks like?

Three Ecu's are located in front of the battery under the bonnet....main Ecu, auto trans and front ecu in fusebox assembly all next to each other.

An airbag control module is tucked away directly under the radio assembly in the cabin....very hard to find.

Can someone please show me where the body electronics module or body control module (body computer) is on a 380 and what it looks like?

I can't recall exact location but it's around the steering colomn location or tucked up somewhere in the drivers footwell. I had mine in pieces when doing the blower install & had to remove it to get to the fuel pump relay wiring.

i have taken many pics for my awd project here are some that may be of assistance...


this is the auto trans ecu under bonnet next to main ecu passenger side

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/4867/autotransecu.jpg (http://img211.imageshack.us/i/autotransecu.jpg/)

this is the front ecu controls headlights wipers horn etc
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/9073/frontecuwipershornetc.jpg (http://img522.imageshack.us/i/frontecuwipershornetc.jpg/)

this is the main engine ecu

http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/6641/mainecu.jpg (http://img801.imageshack.us/i/mainecu.jpg/)


here is the stripped cabin note the ecu where center console meets main dashboard

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/9592/underradioprollyairbagc.jpg (http://img510.imageshack.us/i/underradioprollyairbagc.jpg/)

here is another view of it

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4666/underradioecu.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/i/underradioecu.jpg/)

Thanks for the replies. I have a manual transmission, but the other images were helpful. I'll take an image of the loom I have and will post it up. I'm about to make up a test bed to try to get the engine running...if it cannot be made to run with the factory ECU I may have to move to a holden alloytec for the project. The reasoning is purely a financial one: an ICV needs to pass an IM240 test at $500 per test and a it starts to get expensive with dyno time and a few failed tests...expensive enough that a change of engine/ems starts to make sense.

Thanks for the replies. I have a manual transmission, but the other images were helpful. I'll take an image of the loom I have and will post it up. I'm about to make up a test bed to try to get the engine running...if it cannot be made to run with the factory ECU I may have to move to a holden alloytec for the project. The reasoning is purely a financial one: an ICV needs to pass an IM240 test at $500 per test and a it starts to get expensive with dyno time and a few failed tests...expensive enough that a change of engine/ems starts to make sense.



what project ?

You are considering GMH Alloytec?

may as well get a VS commodore mate...

I think you are in the wrong forum...


try here matey.....http://www.ls1.com.au/

Wrong forum...really?
I'm the publisher of Race Magazine in Australia and am building a 900kg mid-engined spaceframe sports car with (hopefully) a 6G75 manual in the rear. An ICV needs to use all of the EMS to pass emissions.
I will build a test bed in the next week and will see if it runs or can be made to run. And yes I would fully consider an Alloytec if the 6G75 requires a substantial amount on money thrown at it to make it run and pass an IM240, it is a perfectly logical decision to consider a newer generation engine that is 30kg lighter.

post up some pics, if you manage to work things out with the 6G75

Wrong forum...really?
I'm the publisher of Race Magazine in Australia and am building a 900kg mid-engined spaceframe sports car with (hopefully) a 6G75 manual in the rear. An ICV needs to use all of the EMS to pass emissions.
I will build a test bed in the next week and will see if it runs or can be made to run. And yes I would fully consider an Alloytec if the 6G75 requires a substantial amount on money thrown at it to make it run and pass an IM240, it is a perfectly logical decision to consider a newer generation engine that is 30kg lighter.

For this purpose, would using a distributor and TJ/TL/TW ECU and wiring (as is done with 6G75 retrofits to 3rd gens) meet the requirements?

Wrong forum...really?
I'm the publisher of Race Magazine in Australia and am building a 900kg mid-engined spaceframe sports car with (hopefully) a 6G75 manual in the rear. An ICV needs to use all of the EMS to pass emissions.
I will build a test bed in the next week and will see if it runs or can be made to run. And yes I would fully consider an Alloytec if the 6G75 requires a substantial amount on money thrown at it to make it run and pass an IM240, it is a perfectly logical decision to consider a newer generation engine that is 30kg lighter.


No offence intended but this is the 380 forum area.....are you building a mid engined 380? lol

Also as long as you understand that you will need the steering column, all the ecu's and the bulk of the wiring loom to run a 6g75 in it's present peripheral configuration in your chassis....

(that's what i have to do to run up a 6g75 on the pallet in my shed).

I will put my hand up and say that you will not get a 6g75 working in your project....unless as a minimum you downgrade it to a 6g74 ecu with distributor, magna loom and steering column etc etc etc.

You need micro processor skills to implement the CAN bus....unless your name is Robert Bosch you have no hope I am sorry to say.

Am I building a mid engined 380...clearly I am not, I do have access to the Bosch engineer in charge of the 380 project for a price that is as yet unknown. Perhaps in this way we might over time be able to trade some information that is of benefit to all on this forum...regardless of whether I actually own a 380. The 380 motornic is known as is the processor etc, but it is likely the software is unique, so despite the same unit being used in some porsches and VW's the 'flash-tune' possibilities are virtually non-existant at this stage. I am *very* pleased and impressed that you can run an engine on a pallet...how well does it run?
I have the full loom, column, key and engine all from one car. I may be able to rig an emulator to feed the ABS signal.
WytWun I have considered this, but I run into the problem with the IM240 test, which in Vic is $500 per go as previously noted. So I would need to do the conversion, tune and then test and most likely retune and retest a few times...it could get too expensive.

Am I building a mid engined 380...clearly I am not, I do have access to the Bosch engineer in charge of the 380 project for a price that is as yet unknown. .

Hmmm...maybe we can pool our resources, i don't go looking to get something for nothing.
Although I am going down a different, possibly less expensive repeatable path.

The wiring loom, ignition barrel,ecus from the US galant will work on a 6G75.

And...they have opened up the tune in US to do what you want i suspect.
The US galant uses the Mitsi ECU not the Bosch.

Something to think about? Possibility that the Mitsi Galant ECU may just plug in and work also...


I am *very* pleased and impressed that you can run an engine on a pallet...how well does it run?.

Nothing special in that accomplishment...just strip the car's entire wiring loom, lay it on the ground with the fuel tank connected and start it up.

Noisy as hell but drives the wheels if you put it into gear etc.


I have the full loom, column, key and engine all from one car. I may be able to rig an emulator to feed the ABS signal. .

I have photos of the front ABS trigger switches and the triggers in the pillars.

I am of the opinion that firing an airbag without any problems in a custom chassis is seriously costly development....since it may use an inverter to generate an unknown higher voltage etc




WytWun I have considered this, but I run into the problem with the IM240 test, which in Vic is $500 per go as previously noted. So I would need to do the conversion, tune and then test and most likely retune and retest a few times...it could get too expensive.


what's an IM240 test?



Here is the ECU in case you want to see what it looks like, i bought this one to pull apart...

http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/144/ecu1.jpg (http://img375.imageshack.us/i/ecu1.jpg/)

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/8703/ecu2.jpg (http://img529.imageshack.us/i/ecu2.jpg/)

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/2935/ecu3.jpg (http://img72.imageshack.us/i/ecu3.jpg/)

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/9666/ecu4.jpg (http://img823.imageshack.us/i/ecu4.jpg/)

" I HAVE ACCESS TOO" , "I AM VERY PLEASED", " WE CAN POOL OUR RESOURCES".......................................Seriously guys, you two sound like a couple of super villians plotting the earths doom!I watch with interest, Whahahaaaaa!

Well we are not teenagers that is for sure.
No problem with airbags, there will be none in the car which incidentally will look something like this: http://www.racemagazine.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=24
For emissions reasons I would prefer to use the 380 setup...obviously I'd also like it to work because I have it. But I'll chase it up a bit anyway.
An IM240 test is the emission test required by some states for modified cars. NSW in particular uses it and Vic is using it for individually constructed vehicles.
IM 240 test limit remains the same so far: 50% of ADR 37/01:
- HC max 0.13 g/km
- CO max 1.05 g/km
- NOx max 0.315 g/km

A new NCOP for light vehicles was introduced on the first of Jan and can be found here: http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx
Not all of the rules will apply, but each state and territory have signed up to introduce it at some stage and it is now much stiffer on brake tests etc on modified cars.
As for starting the engine...if it starts that is a very good thing for me. I can ignore a multitude of fault codes as long as it runs. I am curious as to what it does with a loss of ABS signal - many of these Bosch systems limit power with each successive sensor loss.
I forgot to mention that a Motec M800 board will fit in the original ECU box, one of the subaru ones anyway. Even so I think the std base tune is better for what I plan.

I have already proven that the 380 ecu will start and run the engine without.....

-the speedo
-climate control
-entertainmant system
-front ecu
-auto trans ecu
-air bag triggers (I disconnected them as the first thing)


it also does not nee3d speedo assembly etc.



-so you can run your engine up with just the main ecu, steering column ecu, also the intank fuel pump is an expedient idea as is the drive by wire accelerator pedal
but i did it with the whole wiring loom...and I really do mean the WHOLE loom cause it wanders from side to side all over the car.

so...if you use the 380/6g75 precats you will already meet euro4 emmissions.....tooooo easy.



Oh...if this is your project then it should be the fastest car on earth with a 6g75.....lol
http://www.racemagazine.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=24

Here is a pic of the floor wiring that you'll need to pull up, as well as all the engine bay...


I couldn't get the motor to run without all the wiring cause i couldnt be stuffed working out where the problem was to need it all.

you might have more determination....lol

http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/3781/380floorwiring.jpg (http://img547.imageshack.us/i/380floorwiring.jpg/)
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/4797/380floor2.jpg (http://img502.imageshack.us/i/380floor2.jpg/)

Should be easy to work out what wire are needed by reading the electrical diagram for the 380 :) Could take a while but can be done lol

I don't think I have that body loom, I'll check tomorrow. I was inspired enough by your starting an engine on a pallet to make a steel engine frame to take the engine and loom to aid in starting up.
New NCOP means my car will have to have an additional 80kg...which means some lead filled sills that may just drop off at some stage.

Thats one fine Mag you have their Nero, very interesting, especially being the wannabe racer that I am! And Godiva is hot as, top project that!

Thanks for your comment on the Mag.
Of all the disasters I have a doozy...I cannot find my engine ECU...I have the loom etc but cannot find the bosch unit. 5 hours searching so far! How much do these things cost?

Thanks for your comment on the Mag.
Of all the disasters I have a doozy...I cannot find my engine ECU...I have the loom etc but cannot find the bosch unit. 5 hours searching so far! How much do these things cost?


if you've lost it you're in trouble.

You need the bosch unit cause it's married to the auto trans ecu and ignition barrel.

Unless you can find a 380 to plug them all into and take them to a Mitsi dealer to setup with a MUTIII...if not you're rooted.


It will NOT start with an ECU and ignition barrel mismatch.

bugger will look much more then.

bugger will look much more then.

wreckers are quoting 650 bucks for the "ecu kit"

So is there any reason for using a 380 ECU over an E6X or Adaptronic? Surely the tuning work for a standalone would be a lot less then what is required to retrofit everything in to a custom race car?

Money is a big factor I would say :) As if run a stock ecu it will work first time as well :)

Life, the base factory tune in the std ecu will be far better than any available on the after market. Also the factory ECU is more advanced than a motec M800...there is a good reason why it has the settings it has and I would be blessed if I can get it to run as per the factory. I love the idea of a reliable engine package in an experimental car when everything else has the potential to be unreliable!
No luck so far in my searching...do the manual ones look different to the auto ones?

Life, the base factory tune in the std ecu will be far better than any available on the after market. Also the factory ECU is more advanced than a motec M800...there is a good reason why it has the settings it has and I would be blessed if I can get it to run as per the factory. I love the idea of a reliable engine package in an experimental car when everything else has the potential to be unreliable!
No luck so far in my searching...do the manual ones look different to the auto ones?

they all look the same...if you plug it in an OBD reader will spit out the VIN for you...that's helpful.....

well a frustrating two days and no ecu...I literally have everything else! Anyway I called Eddy Wreckers and bought an ECU kit. Ian there was very helpful and knew exactly what I was talking about. So I may get it running yet! If the other ECU turns up then I have a spare set. The really annoying thing is that I probably put it somewhere 'safe'...which has proven not to be the case!

well a frustrating two days and no ecu...I literally have everything else! Anyway I called Eddy Wreckers and bought an ECU kit. Ian there was very helpful and knew exactly what I was talking about. So I may get it running yet! If the other ECU turns up then I have a spare set. The really annoying thing is that I probably put it somewhere 'safe'...which has proven not to be the case!

Cool...hope you have the wiring loom, and the petrol tank with fuel pump?

Yep have massive wiring loom. Have fuel pump too...I assume the float thing on it is the fuel level? I will make up a little test tank for the test bed. Project car will have its own tank as you can imagine.

man is the wiring harness big. I thought I had all of it but I was wrong I have the dash, engine, front section. Just checked the service manual...the harness alone is big...just please don't tell me I need all of it...

man is the wiring harness big. I thought I had all of it but I was wrong I have the dash, engine, front section. Just checked the service manual...the harness alone is big...just please don't tell me I need all of it...

It took me all day to remove the wiring loom.

The route is thus:-

start with engine loom which has all the ecus connected.

the main wiring loom does a figure 8, it goes from the fuse box under drivers dash side, out under drivers front guard, under radiator support bracket, mates up with ECU's , then goes under passenger front guard, back into dash on passenger side looping back to drivers side fusebox.

the aux loom goes from passenger side dash, down passenger sill, side air bags, and rear lights and sound system.

a small loom goes from under sound system, via center console and transmission tunnel then behind seats to passemger side of rear window for aerial and rear demist.

if you have electric seats you also have a loom going along drivers sill to seats and side airbags and from memory to the transmission selector.


you dont need the loom going down the passenger sill side to start the engine., the fuel pump goes down the drivers side sill back into the middle and out the passenger side.





It takes 3 cardboard boxes to hold the coiled up looms.


I dyno labelled every connector...if you don't you are screwed trying to decipher it later.



have fun....it's only about 6 bolts to remove the entire dash in one piece....i found out after doing it the hard way...lol

Thanks for the information, I'll follow it up some more.
I do have a couple of questions:
When you had your engine running on the pallet did you have the ABS sensors plugged in? Was it a manual or automatic? Any video of it running?
I do not have a plug that will match the pump, so I am obviously missing that part of the loom.

Thanks for the information, I'll follow it up some more.
I do have a couple of questions:
When you had your engine running on the pallet did you have the ABS sensors plugged in? Was it a manual or automatic? Any video of it running?
I do not have a plug that will match the pump, so I am obviously missing that part of the loom.


nah...abs doesnt have to be plugged in...i removed them as a first thing in case they went off.

mine are all auto.


no video...only ran it for a few seconds cause no exhaust manifold and plenty of noise and flames on firewall side....lol

I will find a photo of the fuel pump plug, the colour coding and post it up for you so you can replicate it....will do over weekend if possible