I have a 380 Series II with an Automatic Transmission problem that Mitsubishi seems unable to resolve.

I am getting a severe shudder/shock, accompanied by a momentary surge in RPM as the transmission transitions from 3rd to 4th, or 4th to 5th. Additionally, I get the same problem every time I back off and reaccelerate in those gears. In practice, this results in a totally jerky and uncomfortable ride, particularly when driving around town.

The problem has been isolated to the Damper Clutch (lockup clutch) engagement, which is controlled by the cars transmision ECU.

After numerous visits to dealers, the problem was escalated to Mitsubishi Motors, who have advised me that this it is a common problem with the 380 and is a result of a bug in the Transmisison ECU software.

Unfortunatelty, because Mitsubishi's Factory and 380 development teams were shut down here in Adelaide a couple of years ago, there no longers exists any engineers to look into the software issues and come up with a countermeasure.

After some futile attempts to attenuate the problem, by way of a transmission oil pressure increase, I was advised that Mitsubishi Japan were looking into the problem. Many months later, I am now advised that this is not the case and nothing more can be done.

I have been advised that this effects 50% of 380's. My vehicle is still under manufacturer warranty and I am furious that if the problem is as widespread as Iam being told it is, that nothing more is being done about it.

To give a bit more of a technical background......

- The problem only occurs when the Transmission has reached operating temperature. There is a Temperature sensor in the Transmission, which the ECU uses to determine when to start applying the Damper Clutch engagement algorithms.

- The shudder is consistently bad at speeds of around 50 & 60kmh, but becomes even more pronounced at lower speeds (40-50kmh) and lower RPM combinations, turning into a faily violent jolt as a result of deaccelerating whilst still in 4th gear, then reapplying acceleration.

- Mitsubishi increased the transmission oil pressure and reset the trasmissions adaptive learning, in attempt to improve the problem. This made an improvement for a few weeks, only to have the problem come back worst then before.

Is anyone else experiencing similar problems with their 380?

Does anyone have any knowledge or experience in disabling the Damper Clutch control and what would be the implicatons of doing such a thing?

Hi Andy, 50% of 380's is a bloody high figure, but maybe not surprising.Don't have much time for the trannys in Aussie mitsi's, I had a TE and now a 380 and they both have dumb spells, nothing like yours and always a lower speeds but the tippy in my 380 is bordering on a joke at the moment. You say that it only happens when it gets up to temp and that the temp sensor is used by the ECU to start algorithms so how about disconnecting the temp sensor and see what happens? Just a suggestion!

Just wondering about a few points.

Are you the original owner of the vehicle? Surely if you were it'd still be under the 5-10 warranty they have going.

You say the problem only occurs when the vehicle reaches operating temperature. Had they checked that the temp sensor itself wasn't faulty?

50% of 380's do not have that problem....that's bullshit

I am amazed of this version of Mitsubishi warranty....it may be the dealer you are interacting with.

Go to another dealer and tell them to replace the transmission, entirely , under warranty if they can't fix it.

Just wondering about a few points.

Are you the original owner of the vehicle? Surely if you were it'd still be under the 5-10 warranty they have going.

You say the problem only occurs when the vehicle reaches operating temperature. Had they checked that the temp sensor itself wasn't faulty?

I am the second owner and the vehicle is still under warranty.

I dont know if they have checked the temp sensor or not, but the ECU has logged no faults in respect to this. From what I have read in the workshop manual, the ECU can detect an open circuit or short circuit temp sensor.

Otherwise, it does appear to behaving itself, in the sense that the commencement of Lockup Clutch engagement algorithms does seem to be occuring at a consistent stage each time I drive the car, if that makes sense.

Hi Andy, 50% of 380's is a bloody high figure, but maybe not surprising.Don't have much time for the trannys in Aussie mitsi's, I had a TE and now a 380 and they both have dumb spells, nothing like yours and always a lower speeds but the tippy in my 380 is bordering on a joke at the moment. You say that it only happens when it gets up to temp and that the temp sensor is used by the ECU to start algorithms so how about disconnecting the temp sensor and see what happens? Just a suggestion!

Yes, I thought about this. However, it is not just a simple case of disconencting the sensor. As mentioned above, the ECU can detect an open circuuited or short circuited sensor.

I would need to trick it somehow, by way of a fixed value resistor.

However, does anyone know the implications of doing this? What is the effect on fuel economy?
It has been suggested to me that it would be effected adversely.

50% of 380's do not have that problem....that's bullshit

I am amazed of this version of Mitsubishi warranty....it may be the dealer you are interacting with.

Go to another dealer and tell them to replace the transmission, entirely , under warranty if they can't fix it.

Yes, I was horrified at the suggestion that it was this widespread also, but this is what is being suggested to me. I asked what is the difference between the 50% that exhibit this problem and the 50% that dont, and I have been told driving style. Whether this means the software bug has got something to do with the ECU's Adaptive Learning features and how it applies the Lockup Clutch, I dont know.

I am currently on my 3rd Dealer already in relation to this problem. They have been great in dealing with all of this , whereas the previous ones basically said all 380's do it... it is a characteristic of the vehicle.... put up with it.

My current dealer took the initiative though to escalate the problem to Mitsubishi, after having other customers express concerns of similar problems. Unfortunately though they appear to be the meat in the sandwich between me as the customer and Mitsubishi, who are not being overly proactive or forthcoming in trying to fix this.

I have asked for the transmission and the ECU to be replaced, however Mitsubishi are not cooperating and tell me that it is not going to solve my problem, and continue to insist it is a software design problem they can not resolve.

Without exageration, this vehicle performs like a dog and the whole situation has become totally unsatisfactory. I have been bashing my head against a brick wall with Mitsubishi for many months now.

Unfortunately, there is only so much the dealer can do, if the ECU is not showing any faults and Mitsubishi are not giving approval for the transmission or ECU to be replaced.

Sounds like this needs to be ascalated beyond Mitsubishi to the Office of Fair Trading or equivelant. 50% of 380's having problems is total crap otherwise I think we would have seen this problem on these forums before now. All the 380 members I know don't have a problem with their auto & I have a bucket load of torque going through mine from the Supercharger & it is as smooth as silk & changes solidly into gears.

I'd stop looking for dodgy solutions to the problem & keep pushing Mitsubishi for a replacement! I'd be threatning Fair Trading, ACCC, ombudsman, current affair, solicitors, whatever it takes to get them to take responsibility for their drivetrain warranty!

Sounds like this needs to be ascalated beyond Mitsubishi to the Office of Fair Trading or equivelant. 50% of 380's having problems is total crap otherwise I think we would have seen this problem on these forums before now.

I'd stop looking for dodgy solutions to the problem & keep pushing Mitsubishi for a replacement! I'd be threatning Fair Trading, ACCC, ombudsman, current affair, solicitors, whatever it takes to get them to take responsibility for their drivetrain warranty!

Yes, agree with you on all counts. Thus the reason I originally joined here, to gauge if anyone else was experiencing similar issues to myself.

What exactly is your driving style? And im not sure how long it takes to learn a driving style, so resetting it by disconnecting the (-) battery terminal every now and then might make it go away for a bit.

so why cant they replace the ECU and see if it fixes it if 50% are dodgy???

theres a 50% chance they could fix it !!!

Do you have a cooler fitted by chance??

so why cant they replace the ECU and see if it fixes it if 50% are dodgy???

theres a 50% chance they could fix it !!!

Do you have a cooler fitted by chance??

No cooler is fitted.

They are not replacing the ECU, as they claim it is a software issue, not the actual ECU hardware.

What exactly is your driving style? And im not sure how long it takes to learn a driving style, so resetting it by disconnecting the (-) battery terminal every now and then might make it go away for a bit.

I dont drive the vehicle hard at all. I am not hard on the accelerator. Its main usage is just around town, so lots of starts and stops. I occassionally like to use the tiptronic and the same problem is evident there, when shifting to 4th or 5th gear.

I dont know how long the ECU takes to learn a drivers style. One dealer told me it progressively adapted over the course of 1000km or so. Then I read in one of the forums, that just 15 minutes of driving will be enough for the ECU to adapt. So I really dont know what to believe.

My understanding is that disconencting the battery is not enough to reset the transmission ECU, as the learnt driving style is stored in non volatile memory (EEPROM) within the ECU. I will however give that a try over the weekend.

Some information in this thread.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69555

Some information in this thread.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69555

Thanks Mike,

So have you had any recurrance to the problem after your ECU was replaced?

Try using tippy mode all the time and changing up at higher rpm, like 2,500 or 3,000 rpm. The autobox needs pressure - and hence some decent rpm - to move things inside smoothly and rapidly. Just an idea.

If that fixes it then its probably clutch plates snagging on their baskets. If that is the case, some more energetic driving may smoothen things out. lol

The dealer "software issue" sounds like a story cooked up to excuse them from doing anything.

If it was just a software issue 100% of 380's (autos) would be doing this as they run the same ecu & software. This is a smoke screen, push harder. Man if I was getting dicked around like this with my car I would be banging heads by now!

After new ecu, new clutch pack, flush, at least four resets over time using mutt computer at dealership and an oil cooler fitted still get shudder on one to two upshift occassionly.

Mitsubishi has offered to rebuild the gearbox but at this point have not had the time or inclination to get it done. Still have three years warranty left so no panic.

As an aside over the past year and a half I have had eight different people contact me from this and another forum with the same issues and have driven another 380 which exhibited the same behaviour.

Cheers Mike.

What Variant has this occured on? as I know Mikes is a SX IIRC

My GT has not exhibit this nor has Kif's both are SMOOTH however they are Series I GT's flushed @ 40K and coolers fitted

50% of 380's do not have that problem....that's bullshit

I am amazed of this version of Mitsubishi warranty....it may be the dealer you are interacting with.

Go to another dealer and tell them to replace the transmission, entirely , under warranty if they can't fix it.
+1 couldn't agree more. If it was such an issue then it would have raised it's ugly head here ages ago. I am sure that we drive our cars (at times) just a bit harder than average.

Sounds like this needs to be ascalated beyond Mitsubishi to the Office of Fair Trading or equivelant. 50% of 380's having problems is total crap otherwise I think we would have seen this problem on these forums before now. All the 380 members I know don't have a problem with their auto & I have a bucket load of torque going through mine from the Supercharger & it is as smooth as silk & changes solidly into gears.

I'd stop looking for dodgy solutions to the problem & keep pushing Mitsubishi for a replacement! I'd be threatning Fair Trading, ACCC, ombudsman, current affair, solicitors, whatever it takes to get them to take responsibility for their drivetrain warranty!

Onya Fooz, go get em lad!! A man after my own heart.
Honestly though what he is saying is true. Also if it were a problem with 50% of them surely there would have been a recall to fix the fault. Keep a record of dates, times, names of people you speak to and what they said. Make a point of having a diary with you when you ask them their name and position in the company. This always makes them edgy that you are logging these things. The fact is the vehicle is still under warranty and they must fix it.

I have a bucket load of torque going through mine from the Supercharger & it is as smooth as silk & changes solidly into gears.


Just confirms my suspicion that the box needs to be worked hard to be smooth, it doesn't like light footed drivers.

Just confirms my suspicion that the box needs to be worked hard to be smooth, it doesn't like light footed drivers.


I drive mine like a grandpa and my gears are also silky smooth.

After new ecu, new clutch pack, flush, at least four resets over time using mutt computer at dealership and an oil cooler fitted still get shudder on one to two upshift occassionly.

Mitsubishi has offered to rebuild the gearbox but at this point have not had the time or inclination to get it done. Still have three years warranty left so no panic.

As an aside over the past year and a half I have had eight different people contact me from this and another forum with the same issues and have driven another 380 which exhibited the same behaviour.

Cheers Mike.



mate..there are only a few of us that actually post here.

I think you may have your numbers a bit skewed.

Are you telling us the whole story here?

I wouldn't accept this as 'normal'.

I have never had anything other than smooth changes - GT Series 1 - 50,000 kms.

Auto was flushed at 35,000 kms. Stock auto - no cooler.

I drive mine like a grandpa and my gears are also silky smooth.

You?

Drive like a grampa?

I find that hard to believe!

I bet you hammer it once in a while! lol

You?

Drive like a grampa?

I find that hard to believe!

I bet you hammer it once in a while! lol

Haha!

This is the owner who had his engine rebuilt after the crankshaft bearings ran out of oil at 6000rpm due oil starvation through a corner...lol

I agree with you; the trans responds better to hard driving and I can't fault it after the four speed KE I had.

However I do a get a hard shift occasionally after spirited driving but that's the computer readjusting - not normally.

How many kms are on your car? I flushed gear box after 69,000km 2nd owner - the oil was black and dirty - on the oil plug were zillion little metal particles. The gear box was fine, smooth and ok - after flush have put in 8l of new castrol oil - and it's nice smooth - changes gear on little less rpm.

I would back up the theory to run tippy a bit harder (rev it much closer to the red zone) on the freeway to free it up.

Cheers Marcel

How many kms are on your car? I flushed gear box after 69,000km 2nd owner - the oil was black and dirty - on the oil plug were zillion little metal particles. The gear box was fine, smooth and ok - after flush have put in 8l of new castrol oil - and it's nice smooth - changes gear on little less rpm.

I would back up the theory to run tippy a bit harder (rev it much closer to the red zone) on the freeway to free it up.

Cheers Marcel

My car has just hit 38,000, but the problem started presenting itself at around 38,000.
I have owned the vehicle since 28,000.

Mitsubishi initially tried a transmission oil change, but that made no difference whatsoever.
I have taken it for several runs up the freeway. Didnt quite take it to the redline, but its worth a try.

If it is a matter of driving it hard, as some of you are suggesting, this would further backup what the Dealer has told me.
But that begs the question, shouldnt these things adapt to all driving styles?

Just confirms my suspicion that the box needs to be worked hard to be smooth, it doesn't like light footed drivers.
I drive mine gently most of the time too. I manage a pretty good average of low to mid 10s. I do open it up a bit now and then off the mark or revving it out a bit to make sure there is no carbon build up on the valves lol.
And Blackie, sure you do lol you drive your s/c cars like a grandpa. We ALL believe that mate lol

What Variant has this occured on?

again trying to see a pattern

I have a series one vrx with absolutely no problems. I have a cooler (as you know mecha) and do regular services on it. I also tow with it which puts it under a bit more load. Mecha has a good point. What variant is it. ( Mind you I thought that they were all the same, I have been wrong before though lol)

No issues with my series 3 sx which has just over 60,000Km. I agree with others that the 50% claim seems a dealer smokescreen. I'd write to MMAL and asked them to confirm or deny that. If you need to go to Fair Trading would be good to have something in writing that says what the official position from the manufacturer is.

For what my 2 cents is worth. I have a series 1 GT. 73000km. Had trannie flushed at 70000km.. Auto is smooth as. In fact one of the smoothest autos I have ever had.. Was one of the reasons I bought the car.

again trying to see a pattern

Seems like various series 1's, 2's & 3's are fine so if there is a box problem it might be a dodgy batch of parts that went into them at a certain time. Still don't buy the ecu firmware excuse otherwise we would all have issues.

well I have a feeling Series II got the rough end maybe??
that was also the intro of the SX variant

food for thought

Mines a first of the series 2, they tried to sell me a 1 but I said I would wait a few weeks for a series 2.

Registered Aug '06.

Mines VRX Series 2 registered July 06 - 140 000km no probs.

Is it possible to have the ECU reflashed to correct this issue?

Is it possible to have the ECU reflashed to correct this issue?

No & it won't be a firmware issue anyway. There has to be a problem with his transaxle & MM is trying to squirm out of replacing it.

I put this on the other forum you posted,


Sounds like crap to me. I've driven a 380 hire car with about 60 000k and looked like it had a hard life and the box was faultless. They say it affects half the 380's yet they all have the same software- crap. If it was purely a software issue then all they'd have to do is flash the computer with the software from the good ones.

Sounds like a fault in the box , probably the torque convertor clutch. I assume they've done a fluid change ( Bad Fluid can cause problems) which is usually their first fault finding procedure. I would expect this box would also be the same as the 5 speed F5A51 in the magnas?

Have they checked for metal debris in the box?

I just had a crap experience with my magna box. Seeing this post has me all wound up again. They don't even repair the boxes except fluid changes, that the Triple Diamond Highly skilled service you'll get from MMAL.

If they do decide to repair, They'll outsource the job to Fluid Drive and from then on any issues they have to go back there. In other words they effectively remove the liability from themselves to someone who has to do these for a set price , make a profit and carry the warranty for it.

Chances are there are none available in their exchange program which would mean they'd have to give you a new box.

I tried to get them to supply a brand new box after my second(delivered faulty) box, told that none were available.

But guess what, this was crap too! I rang a different dealer asking for the puchase price of a F4A51 box, $6000 I think and THER WERE 4 IN COUNTRY IN SYDNEY available. Liars.

And let me just say that Fluid Drives quality control is a joke. I had 3 boxes with 3 new problems installed in succession and still not 100% happy with this box but I've given up.

And don't waste your time contacting the customer service line they're crap too. You just get handballed back to the dealer who was crap and is why you ring the service hotline.

Crap

Anyway , try consumer affairs, maybe if you're a member of a motoring association try them, another dealer. Write letters and be an absolute pain in the ass because they want you to just go away. hell maybe you can get a spot on A current affair. Document everything!

I was told by the dealer a technical case had been started too, guess what that was crap too, they lie.




You poor soul, I feel your pain. It was 6 months of hell for me.

Just got to say it again CRAP.



Oh, and the lockup clutch is controlled by the damper control or TCC solenoid which lives behind the black valve body cover. I guess theorectically this could be disconnected and your fuel consumption would go up slightly and you'd lose that direct drive feel when it locks up.

The only question is how would the computer react to it being disconnected, most likely a fault light would come on but would this put the box into fail safe/limp mode? probaly not , but that's the bit I dunno.

just had another thought, byany chance when you talk about jolts on decel, does the engine / tacho dip suddenly and then rise again just as you are reaching the point your foot is completely off the gas?

And then at about the same point when you come back on the throttle, say for example at the point the Idle switch in the TPS sensor is operating?

And as far as development/tech support goes , I wonder how the 2004- Galant with 6G75 (3.8) V6 & the F5A5A-4-C4Z transmission is getting along in the US from which the 380 car came from.

looks like the 380 has F5A5A-4-C5Z which would be the same box with probably some minor variation.

http://mitsubishi.ilcats.ru/classif/market/general/model/52U/submdl/DL1A

And don't waste your time contacting the customer service line they're crap too. You just get handballed back to the dealer who was crap and is why you ring the service hotline.

Anyway , try consumer affairs, maybe if you're a member of a motoring association try them, another dealer. Write letters and be an absolute pain in the ass because they want you to just go away. hell maybe you can get a spot on A current affair. Document everything!

I was told by the dealer a technical case had been started too, guess what that was crap too, they lie.

You poor soul, I feel your pain. It was 6 months of hell for me.
dunno.




I havent bothered to bore everyone with the long drawn out saga with my attempted phone calls and emails to Mitsibishi's 'Customer care', constant handballing back to the dealer etc. After reading your post though, it almost makes me feel I am reading about my own experience.

You are correct, their customer care is useless to the extreme. They dont return calls. It is impossible to get past reception at Mitsubishi to speak to their dealer rep, that this case was initially escalated to. For gods sake, the dealer rep from Mitsibishi even came out with me on a test drive initially to experience the problem with the vehicle first hand. Why is it now impossible for me now to speak him, when I call Mitsubishi. Reception are not allowed to transfer me to him, telling me I must go back through the dealer. Yet the dealer continues to have their hands tied, because they are waiting for Mitsubishi to give them further instruction.

What annoys me the most and which has prompted me to come to this forum, was that the oil pressure increase was supposed to be an interim solution until Mitsubishi Japan had fixed this illusive software problem. I received an email from Mitsubishi recently, telling me that as far as they were concerned, the case was now closed, that the oil pressure increase was the final solution and there was no need to refer the case to Japan.

After a few email exchanges, trying to explain to them that the problem was still unresolved, they expected me to go back to the dealer to have them verify that indeed the problem was still there, before they would get involved again....like I was making it all up. A waste of another friggin day. Its this kind of running around and handballing that adds salt to the wounds.

Further reading you post, I came to the same conclusion regarding both Mitsubishi and their dealer network capability, that they are unable to properly diagnose or repair transmission issues. I have repeatedly asked of Mitsubishi, to have the transmission removed from the vehicle, disassembled and properly diagnosed. This has never been done. Then asking for the transmission to be replaced keeps getting the response, it is not going to fix this issue.

I took the vehicle to two independent transmission specialists here in Adelaide to verify the problem. Both are confirming the same as Mitsubishi are telling me, that it is the damper/lockup clutch engagement.

I think you are all right, that its time to take my case to somewhere like consumer affairs. I have been dealing with this nonsesnse for a good part of 7 months now.

Drive the bloody car through the dealerships service department front door & say sorry I couldn't stop because the transmission was playing up lol

I'd be ringing them everyday & turning up on their doorstep with a camera crew annoying the crap out of them until something was done.

Oh, and the lockup clutch is controlled by the damper control or TCC solenoid which lives behind the black valve body cover. I guess theorectically this could be disconnected and your fuel consumption would go up slightly and you'd lose that direct drive feel when it locks up.

The only question is how would the computer react to it being disconnected, most likely a fault light would come on but would this put the box into fail safe/limp mode? probaly not , but that's the bit I dunno.

Disconnecting the solenoid would result in an ECU fault and limp mode as you have suggested, according to the workshop manual.

Disconnecting the solenoid would result in an ECU fault and limp mode as you have suggested, according to the workshop manual.

fine well buy a extra solenoid and hook it up and let it just sit there. (half joking here)

Is it possible to have the ECU reflashed to correct this issue?


No.

The auto in the 380 appears to have a separate transmission control unit, unlike the 2nd and 3rd gen Magnas where the main ECU also controls both the engine and auto transmission. From the photos Blackstar has posted this is a Mitsubishi sourced component and not from Bosch, and hence just might be reflashable with the right tools and information.

The second gen TR I owned had the TCU under the centre dash area and the ECU in the Passeger kick panel area.

The 380 looks like a piggy back, Wonder why they did this? The US galant has the single ECU/TCU in the same location.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43209&d=1294538685&thumb=1

I really like the camera idea. Video everything that they say and keep it one file. Time is overdue to escalate this to fair trading.

The second gen TR I owned had the TCU under the centre dash area and the ECU in the Passeger kick panel area.

Okay, it was only 3rd gens that had the combined ECU/TCU.


The 380 looks like a piggy back, Wonder why they did this? The US galant has the single ECU/TCU in the same location.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43209&d=1294538685&thumb=1

Probably because the INVECS code is proprietary to Mitsu Japan, and the ECU is proprietary to Bosch, and Mitsu Japan would have said :noway: to Bosch including the code in the main ECU... The Galant ECU is all Mitsu, so no problem combining.

The second gen TR I owned had the TCU under the centre dash area and the ECU in the Passeger kick panel area.

The 380 looks like a piggy back, Wonder why they did this? The US galant has the single ECU/TCU in the same location.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43209&d=1294538685&thumb=1

Yes, the Transmission ECU appears to be a separate unit and sits right next to the Main ECU, under the bonnet.

The US boys have cracked the engine ecu but as yet still haven't cracked the transmission ecu. Can't see how that will help anyway as it obviously isn't a programming problem, its just MM trying to make out it is.

I think this car has been thrashed and that's the real problem.

The US boys have cracked the engine ecu but as yet still haven't cracked the transmission ecu. Can't see how that will help anyway as it obviously isn't a programming problem, its just MM trying to make out it is.

References?

References?
Have a read, you might need to be a member http://www.club9g.net/forums/forumdisplay.php/8-Electronic-Modifications

Old thread I know but some people who had similar issues may still be interested.

Purchased a tube of Mr Tranny anti shudder additive back in Febuary from Ebay ($11.75 delivered). Within 5 klms of adding to transmission first to second shuddert eliminated and fourth to fifth stumble and shudder also eliminated..

Been in four months now and done oner 5000klms and auto is silky smooth.

Wish I had done this three years ago.

Cheers

Mike

Is it this one mike??
http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-230/Dr.+Tranny+Instant+Shudder+Fixx

Yes thats it.

I have been recommending this stuff to AMC members for years, have had some great results with this stuff

Ordering some now might add it to my next fluid change

Used to have a shudder on my legnum a few years ago. used to happen when warmed up and driving at about 60kph. The previous owner had not used mitsibishi's recomended ATF. Flushing the Transmission and filling with genuine mitsubishi ATF fixed this. Apparently if any other Transmission fluid is used, this shudder will occur. magna's use the same ATF.

Hi

Yes we have the same problem. Its been fixed twice but only last a few weeks then starts again. It makes for a very uncomfortable drive and really annoying.
I have also been told the transmission has a memory and will pick up driving styles? Not sure about that one.

They replaced the computer to try and correct it but problem started again. I am taking it back tomorrow as I need the vehicle to be driving correctly for a trip.

Apart from the above problem which I think is a big problem the car is great. The car had done 18k klm when I bought it and now on 63k klm.

Not sure what they will do though its still under warranty (expires next year) and I would really like it to be fixed.

Check my post no 58 in this thread.

Had trans fluid changed with genuine fluid, new computer and new valve body. Nothing worked.

One tube of mr tranny. Problem solved.

Car is still under warranty