Gday,

I was checking for stored trouble codes earlier today on my 98 TF auto V6. Battery was good, engine was at operating temp and all accesories were off. I did it using the method of grounding a connector up under the drivers side dash and watching the flashing engine light for codes, good news is no codes, although Im a bit worried as when I did it the 'N' light on the instrument panel also flashed in quick succession. I've read in my owners manual that when it does this it means the auto trans is over heating while driving, although its strange how it does it when looking for diagnostic codes with the engine off and ignition 'on'. And also my 'D' light on my instrument panel doesn't work either, at all, which I've also been told means trans problems.

I've looked all through my haynes manual and can't find any thing about it, so I was hoping some one on here might be able to help me. Any useful info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Its ok, mine does the same thing when i check for codes.

Gday,

I was checking for stored trouble codes earlier today on my 98 TF auto V6. Battery was good, engine was at operating temp and all accesories were off. I did it using the method of grounding a connector up under the drivers side dash and watching the flashing engine light for codes, good news is no codes, although Im a bit worried as when I did it the 'N' light on the instrument panel also flashed in quick succession. I've read in my owners manual that when it does this it means the auto trans is over heating while driving, although its strange how it does it when looking for diagnostic codes with the engine off and ignition 'on'. And also my 'D' light on my instrument panel doesn't work either, at all, which I've also been told means trans problems.

I've looked all through my haynes manual and can't find any thing about it, so I was hoping some one on here might be able to help me. Any useful info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Damn,My D in the Speedo Panel has gone,So if some1 know's for SURE can they Please clarify that it's Transmission Troubles,So i can get it sorted out under warranty.
And what do u mean by "Codes"?

And what do u mean by "Codes"?

Codes as in diagnostic codes recorded by your ECU when a faulty sensor is detected. IE: a certain code will be recorded if your oxygen sensor malfunctions or stops working all together.

Its ok, mine does the same thing when i check for codes.
That just means you AND unsexedTH is about to break lol

can you say SPAM, or how about this one 'banned for life'. :badgrin:

i like chicken

your pushing your luck turbo_charade lol

Ever throught that a blacked out D is just a bulb? I replaced the buld in my last auto TE and bingo bango were back in business lol

yeh id say its a globe i dunno how trans problems would stop a light showing....

your pushing your luck turbo_charade lol

Ever throught that a blacked out D is just a bulb? I replaced the buld in my last auto TE and bingo bango were back in business lol

Can you get those bulbs from any spare parts supplier??? cause my mums TF doesn't light the D (yes I thought it was a burnt out globe and nothing bad :D )

Yeah thats what I thought aswell, but then again it could have been something mitsu programmed in as a warning indicator. But the 'D' not working and the fact my auto likes to play up from time to time got me a bit worried, if the problems persist Im going to either get a trans shop to look at it, or flush the fluid in fill with mitsu genuine fluid, full machine flush. Or maybe even both. Looking back now, Im so glad I bought an auto :mad: .

is it hard to get to the bulb to test it?

My last Verada (KE) blew the globe in the D indicator. $7 odd from Mitsubishi and about 15 mins to replace. Easy!!! If you are replacing your transmission fluid take it somewhere where they can pressure flush as the transmission wont completely drain on its own.

I just compared the transmission fluid in my trans at the moment to some new fluid, and dam theres a big difference :shock: . My old fluid is like a light brown colour, whereas the new fluid is a nice bright red colour, and there is a noticeable difference in smell between the two, indicating burnt fluid :confused: . Although I only had my trans serviced about 4 months ago, flushed aswell, and already the new fluid looks burnt.

The plan now is to flush the fluid myself and fit a new trans filter. I read a little while ago that you can pump all the old fluid out yourself at home simply by unplugging both cooler lines, position them into a bucket, turn the car on, and add new fluid through the dipstick hole while the old fluid is getting pumped out by the pump that pushes the fluid through the cooler lines/radiator. Once the new red fluid runs out of the cooler lines then your all done, simple enough. Anyone tried this before?

haha my D light also went out
I just gave it a tap and it worked again :nuts:

Been working for a month now :shock:

watch out if it runs dry sexed, im sure that wouldln't be the best thing for them.

your fluid is always going to be burnt after 4 months, this doesn't mean its still not operating at 99.9% compared to brand new fluid.

try pour turps in for a few minutes as to not waste the expencive fluid.

Yeah the light flashes when there is a problem but if it is out all the time then as they other guys said, it will just be a bulb. It isnt hard to replace at all. I'm an amateur when it comes to pulling stuff apart and it was even easy for me. Just unscrew the surround of the instrument cluster, disconnect the dimmer switch, cruise switch if you have it and clock switch if it has it. Then just unscrew the actual instrument cluster and it will just come straight out. Bulb housings are on the back. Try it, not hard at all, just be gentle because that stuff scratches so easily. Take the bulb out. You will be able to suss it out easily. Then just take it down to any auto store like autobarn or supercheap auto. They will have them.

Good luck.

sounds like a fix then

I still wouldnt mind changing my fluid so I know it has good fluid and so I know what type of fluid is in there. And like 1/3 times my car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it like misses the change, or like kind of slips, some times does it with other gears aswell, most common is 2nd - 3rd though. And Im still not sure about the turps thing, where did you read about this method of flushing an auto transmission?

And Im still not sure about the turps thing, where did you read about this method of flushing an auto transmission?
I was talking to mics (balcon boy) mechanic and he said that they use turps and about 8L of it and then use cheap fluid then the good fluid. for the total of 260 odd. but turps is just a thin oil so it'll be right

Transmission service is scheduled every 80000 or 100000Klms (cant remember which and too lazy to go out and grab my service book) and consists of fluid flush and filter. Last one I had done at Mitsi dealership cost me $95 which included $50 for oil and filter. For $45 once every 10000Klm not worth the risk of doing it yourself. Apparently a rebuild on one is around $4000 if you mess it up!! Did 168000Klms in a KE Verada before I sold it, regularly towing a 1.3 tonne boat and never had a transmission problem.

The only way to really mess it up using the method I mentioned earlier would be if you let the level get too low while pumping out the old fluid, but if your careful enough and plan everything properly then there shouldnt be any dramas. And if more fluid was coming out then what your were putting in you could easily enough stop the engine and top up the trans fluid to a safe level, although probably best off having 2 ppl to do it, makes things alot easier.

Alright, its not going to be that easy. :doubt:

According to my dipstick reading I had a high fluid level, so I decided to remove some fluid as I had some other unused fluid that I could top it up with if need be. I removed both trans cooler lines from the metal pipes up near the front exhaust headers and positioned them so they would flow into a container to catch the fluid. I turned the car on, checked the container, and it was already over flowing, by the time I got back to the ignition to turn my car off, the ground was covered in about a litre of fluid. After seeing how fast the fluid is pumped out I've decided that I wont try that method as it would be very hard to add fluid quickly enough to stop the fluid level dropping to a dangerous level. I think it might be best to leave it to a trans shop. :confused:

unplug the coil and crank the car, dont start it. Unplug the coil from the power not just a coil lead, to prevent arcing