Ok, so I've got a bulk pack and a doors pack of dynamat on the way, will this be enough for the boot and the outer and inner skin of the front doors? This will be my first attempt at sound deadening, any tips or tricks?

How do you plan to deaden? Are you going to do the knock test and see what resonates and then apply dynamat to it? Or are you just going to cover the inner skin, outer skin, and all of the boot?

Either way you will have plenty, you should be able to do it all with a single bulk pack. I know a guy who has won Various Sound Quality competitions and he did it with only using half a bulk pack of dynamat.

A tip for the front doors is that, the outer skin will most probally need to be fully covered where as the inner skin wont need as much because due to all the bends in the metal it is less prone to resonating. Also saving dynamat and using some duct tape and 3mm MDF is a cheap and effective way to cover the service holes in the door skin.

check the mobile electronics australia forum might be a better place for historical info on that.

Thanks for the help guys. Sounds like I should have more than enough then. Cheers.

...where as the inner skin wont need as much because due to all the bends in the metal it is less prone to resonating.
This. If you have to conserve Dynamat, large/flat pieces of metal are more likely to resonate than smaller or bendy surfaces.

In my experience, the panels most likely to vibrate are the rear quarter panels (ie just forwards of the tail lights).

To add to the above post, the roof sheeting is also prone to rattles.

All good stuff to keep in mind. What about the spare wheel well? I intend to keep the spare accessible, should I layer dynamat through there and just bang the spare back on top? Won't do any damage to the deadener? Silly question, I'm sure of it.

All good stuff to keep in mind. What about the spare wheel well? I intend to keep the spare accessible, should I layer dynamat through there and just bang the spare back on top? Won't do any damage to the deadener? Silly question, I'm sure of it.

Deadening the wheel well is not really needed until you plan to run a sub in it. Im planning to do the same so ive used some spray on deadner and some strips of some cheap deadner i had laying around. Soon i will go overkill and brace the wheel well, but if you dont plan to run a sub in the wheel well it isnt necessary.

http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/4125/dsc00320g.jpg
By null (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/null) at 2011-01-08
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/3681/dsc00345mv.jpg
By null (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/null) at 2011-01-10

Cool mate, cheers. So, floor, minus the wheel well, quarter panels and wheel arches in the boot, and outer door skins would be a good start? Then start to block off holes in the doors etc.

I wouldnt even worry about the floor to start with. Its not a priority because it is pretty reinforced due to the curves in the sheeting, and the carpet is quite thick and seems to have a layer of MLV on it to help block out road noise.

I would start with the doors, roof, rear quater panels then run some bass through your car and see how you go for rattles.

This is how i did my roof. I used sikabond to fill the structural parts which helped alot.
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/5307/sany0977u.jpg
By null (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/null) at 2010-08-04

As you have power windows, make sure you make an area accessable incase you need to change window motors and regulators, for that off chance one fails. Oh it also helps to be able to access the window guide rails so you can spray with silicon to keep them windows moving smooth and fast.

WhenI dynamatted mine, I went and also did the panel where the ski port is, front and back and top of the parcel shelf, as I'm running a sub in the wheel well, did it there too.

The idea to make the service holes removable is to clean the area around the hole, cover the hole with duct tape (duct tape only as others will fail), then paint a piece of 3mm MDF (to protect it from Moisture and rotting), sit that on the duct tape firm, and then tape of the MDF.

There's some panels behind the rear seats that benefit from mat, and whilst you're there you might as well do the turrets above. There's also some paint on stuff that I think would be great to apply to the inside trim of the door panels - this is where I get my vibration noise is from the plastic bits. My TE has sound damping all over the floor and I suspect yours would too.

I've found that it's way better to expose the far section of mat, line it up with your panel. Then slowly pull back on the backing, with your spare hand rubbing the mat on as you go. This will give you an uncrinkled finish and save you stuffing around rubbing it straight. Practice on some easy bits first before the doors. Also the backing paper is good to use to rub in. Leave your trim off whilst you hunt down any vibrations left over.

There's some panels behind the rear seats that benefit from mat, and whilst you're there you might as well do the turrets above. There's also some paint on stuff that I think would be great to apply to the inside trim of the door panels - this is where I get my vibration noise is from the plastic bits. My TE has sound damping all over the floor and I suspect yours would too.

I've found that it's way better to expose the far section of mat, line it up with your panel. Then slowly pull back on the backing, with your spare hand rubbing the mat on as you go. This will give you an uncrinkled finish and save you stuffing around rubbing it straight. Practice on some easy bits first before the doors. Also the backing paper is good to use to rub in. Leave your trim off whilst you hunt down any vibrations left over.

I don't want to get too carried away with the trims themselves, as I want to change them for some that aren't ugly grey eventually.

I don't want to get too carried away with the trims themselves, as I want to change them for some that aren't ugly grey eventually.

Where are your power window switches...on the door or in the centre console...??/

Centre console Mike.

Maybe one day your boot would look like this lol

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/IMG_0076.jpg

One bulk pack should be enough for the front doors, bootlid and maybe the sides of the boot walls as they are very thin
Another thing to try to stop rattling is the power anttennar brack and the heat sheild above the rear muffler

Maybe one day your boot would look like this lol

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa139/Mr_Roberto_Photos/IMG_0076.jpg

One bulk pack should be enough for the front doors, bootlid and maybe the sides of the boot walls as they are very thin
Another thing to try to stop rattling is the power anttennar brack and the heat sheild above the rear muffler

Thats what my boot looks like under all the audio gear!!
I had a door pack and bulk pack, that was enough to do the inner/outer door skins, boot floor, wheel arch, rear panels, skiport front and back and top of the parcel shelf. I stll have 3 full sheets left!

Thats what my boot looks like under all the audio gear!!
I had a door pack and bulk pack, that was enough to do the inner/outer door skins, boot floor, wheel arch, rear panels, skiport front and back and top of the parcel shelf. I stll have 3 full sheets left!

Fantastic! That's what I've got on the way, and that sounds like how much I wanna deaden for now. Did you do your bootlid as well?

Fantastic! That's what I've got on the way, and that sounds like how much I wanna deaden for now. Did you do your bootlid as well?

Yup, and the bootlid, covered by the carpet, so can't tell. Though I might have to upgrade the boot torsion bars to VRX spec to cope with the added weight of the lid.

And here (http://s316.photobucket.com/albums/mm329/grelise1/Boot%20Install/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ20) are more pics of my boot and where I sound deadened