Changed the RHS mount with one of Megatron's poly inserts, happy with the result. Figured I might as well do the rear (roll stop mount), I've had the poly insert for that sitting around for a while.

Any tips/advice on this? Looks like a **** of a job to DIY with just axle stands and no hoist? Anyone done it here themselves? How long did it take? Anything in partricularly to watch out for? Didn't get a chance to look at it closely today before dark, but thought it would be worth making a thread about it in the meantime anyway.

Cheers,
Andy

i did it one afternoon. i removed the intake plenum for easier access, hardest part was getting the bolt back in but managed to with some leavering. i managed to do it with no axle stands.

I'm sure someone on here mentioned awhile ago to use a jack, with a block of wood to spread the load and carefully raise it enough using the sump to get the pressure off the mount so the bolts can easily be removed.

the roll stop shouldnt have pressure on it. as it only stops the rocking of the engine, it doesnt support the engine weight.

the roll stop shouldnt have pressure on it. as it only stops the rocking of the engine, it doesnt support the engine weight.

In theory. Depends on how much sag there is in the others. The engine probably rests evenly on all four mounts when its not running. Still a good idea to take some of the load off the rear mount with the wood/jack method. You won't find out if this is needed until you try to pull the bolt out. lol

In theory. Depends on how much sag there is in the others. The engine probably rests evenly on all four mounts when its not running. Still a good idea to take some of the load off the rear mount with the wood/jack method. You won't find out if this is needed until you try to pull the bolt out. lol

true, mine had a little weight, but that was just because the old engine mount had sagged. but he changed his to a poly one so it shouldnt have.
only one way to find out i guess

true, mine had a little weight, but that was just because the old engine mount had sagged. but he changed his to a poly one so it shouldnt have.
only one way to find out i guess

That's called the "suck it and see" method. lol

I changed mine with the poly mounts some time back. Wasn't to difficult from memory.
Put it up on axle stands and yes you will need to support some of the weight of the engine with a jack.

Like you I changed the RHS mount first and liked the result, next I changed both the front and rear mounts together.
Umm... don't let the vibrations scare you when you start it up next ;)
The mounts settle down after a couple of months and all your mirrors stop vibrating at idle but still, NVH goes out the window.
They do eliminate axle tramp quite well :)

Is the nut captured or able to spin? Either way I can't budge the bolt even using a torque wrench. It's done up tight... I've changed RHS mount without much trouble but this one is stuck. I have pretty good access with the car up on stands and engine pipe off.

I assume you are talking about the nut on the end of the bolt that goes through the mount? If so, the bolt is "able to spin" and it should be tight as it should be torqued to 115nm I believe. Try some water dispersant (WD40) and let it sit for a minute and them see how you go. Really shouldn't be too hard to undo, hope this helps.

Cheers Luke

115Nm is quite a lot...

I have good access to the bolt had but poor access to the nut. Was wondering if the nut was captured by the mount in some way and I could just lean on the bolt head a bit harder. Looks like I'l have to work out a way to access the nut (it's on the left hand / passenger side of mount).

Will try some WD40 in the morning.

Put some WD40 on now and again in the morning.

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Is the nut captured or able to spin? Either way I can't budge the bolt even using a torque wrench. It's done up tight... I've changed RHS mount without much trouble but this one is stuck. I have pretty good access with the car up on stands and engine pipe off.

I really really hope you have not tried to use the torque wrench to undo something, if so, either re calibrate it or throw it out as it will be stuffed if you exceeded the range selected

The bolt is far harder to undo than the nut, the nut will come away far easier and if you have the right tools it is not hard, if not, then you may need to bite the bullet and get it done professionally. WD40 will not help other than to make a mess. Just add up the time you have taken and you will soon see that it has cost you more than it would have to get it doen properly

I don't see why it would be so hard to undo a nut and bolt and I can't understand why anyone would pay someone to do it for them. Fair enough if it were replacing a clutch or a timing belt or something that requires a little more skill and knowledge but its just a nut and bolt. Not trying to put anyone down or anything just think the OP needs to try a little harder. As Mal said using a torque wrench to undo something is a no no, thats what breaker bars are for. If a nut and bolt are bound then using a little water dispersant can help, it may be a little messy but that is what its for.