Hi badcredit25

The Fuel Rail Tuning kit was first developed when I fitted a high-flow air filter to my TJ2 and found a definite flat spot at around off-idle to 2500 rpm
This is because the original (restrictive) air filter forms part of the intake tuning – limiting the air going in gives an effective enrichment, as well as reducing emissions

I did a lot of research and found that heating the fuel by a specified amount causes the fuel to better combine with the intake air, giving improved combustion and noticeably better torque (and no more flat spot)

Actually what is happening is that the fuel is enriched in terms of air/fuel ratio, thus giving the improvement in torque AND the responsiveness of the improved combustion of the fuel

This is evident on a permanent EGO sensor display, which I use constantly in all my developments as I on-road test

In fact the response shows similar to what you would get with an accelerator pump
(I know – I didn’t believe it at first, either!)

Heating fuel for improvement has been around since before you and I were born – it’s just that engineers have been trying to do it across the whole rev range, whereas the Magna loss in power is best solved by doing it at the fuel rail
(I’ll have more to say about that later)
At higher revs than 3000, the kit transfers less heat thus giving cooler fuel injection

No, the kit does NOT cause the engine to run lean – just the opposite - in fact it is now so effective that you can now run your Magna in the lower rev range (and lower throttle opening) and still have the ‘pick-up’ that you should have, without the need to ‘tramp on it’

In fact, only recently I came across a reference to American Mitsubishi where the fuel is run below optimum temp in order to reduce fuel vapour emissions, and this is what gives excessive sooty deposits at the exhaust pipe

Of course now you can see that, when the whole design is implemented, that the engine is running better than before, with NO increase in raw fuel required

With more than 70 kits in use, the performance is well proven

Additional benefits are less soot and EGR deposits on spark plugs and soot than can clog up TB’s and mufflers

I’ll answer the rest of your post when I get some more time

Regards, Barry


sorry i dont see the point of heating the fuel rail either, the fuel is constantly being returned to tank, so it would take friggin ages to heat it ALL upto what ever temp you are chasing, sorry but id like to see dyno sheet with/without before id put money on it

Hi Badcredit25

Thankyou for taking the time to postup
This is a good question that many have trouble understanding

From the way you have worded your question, I take it that you think up to a full tank of fuel must be fully heated before the kit can work - but this is not so

Actually the answer is quite simple

The fuel rail tuning kit draws heat by conduction directly from the engine

The design of the existing fuel rail is such that the large diameter common rail slows down the flow of the fuel, enabling it to absorb just enough heat to raise the temp of the fuel by the required amount

This all happens at the engine, not at the return, which then has very little bearing on the outcome

Cheers, Barry

Madmagnas going to enjoy this :) and why did you start a new thread to answer a question?

Madmagnas going to enjoy this :) and why did you start a new thread to answer a question?

I apologise for taking so long to answer the post, which was posted 07 - 11 - 2010

The thread had been closed, so this was the best way to answer it

Cheers, Barry

Here we go again, Welcome back Barry!

How are the new developments going on the Earthing Kits?

I apologise for taking so long to answer the post, which was posted 07 - 11 - 2010

The thread had been closed, so this was the best way to answer it

Cheers, Barry

Fair enough then.

Guys, I tried the latest earthing kit, was a real bugger though as the cord going into the ground was not really long enough, ran out of length and snapped off at the end of my driveway, was thinking of one of the retractable reels though for the next one, must admit though that Nemisis idea of using a star picket into the ground at the other end was a winner, it did not budge.......oh sorry ppl, did not realise that this was a serious thread......again yawn.......

Again I will ask, why did Mits spend so much time and money cooling fuel, why does every manufacturer do this? I mean, i am sure they have nothing else to spend their money on in these hard times when half of them are on the verge of going broke, perhaps these car makers can use Barry as he seems to know much more than they do after all. Also, why do you think that a lot of production racing cars are limited to fuel systems, some have even had an ass kicking for using fuel COOLERS to make the fuel more dense (like these heaters...dense)

Also, pray tell, how to you work your "special" gaskets, you cool the manifold, remove the fast idle coolant pipes, insulate the TB to cool all this down, well guess what sunshine, the rail is mounted to your lower manifold which is ...... wait for it ...... cooled. Does the heat bypass the manifold and by magic find its way to the fuel rail only.

As for heating the fuel, comon Barry, get your hand off your old fella, the fuel goes back to the tank pretty damn fast, remove your fuel return line and have a look for yourself buddy

Moral to the story, if your car is having issues with lag, flat spots etc, find the real reason, dont just cover it up with 2c worth of crap

BTW Barry, I do have to thank you for one thing, all of these so called fuel rail heaters I have remvoved for members have really come in handy for mounting the Transmission filters on the 5sp auto's, they actually do work well as far as spacing and height go so well done there

the only way this can be proven is with a before and after dyno graph, this idle chit-chat is pointless...

Why does someone need to dyno this when team around the world have researched this to bits........this has been covered that many times is almost as boring as the "what exhause should I use" threads.......

Simple, fuel is more efficient when cold, thus why people do the best they can to cool it

Madmagna delivers once again :) lol

+ you can use a thermal spacer between the upper and lower manifolds and guess how they are attached to each other, with nice HEAT TRANSFERRING BOLTS.

And once again this topic starts to slide down.

Before the reports start coming in i'm gunna close this.

Barry has made his case and we have had arguments for both sides

Ladies and gentlemen .................... its up to you to decide who wins the debate. :D