Hey guys

Recently bought a VRX with reasonable Kms 170,000

Once or twice ive driven it and it its played up when cold and revs funny or shifts funny and won;t change gears properly. It has only done it once ot twice otherwise drives fine in D and in tiptronic mode it fine also.

Ive heard there is a clinch in the computers of the auto on these..

what am i best doing..Getting the auto serviced and then computer checked out for codes? it drives fine 99% of the time i just wanna make sure im not damaging the auto and/or preventing any future $$$ auto rebuild costs

It's due for a 200k service soon anyways!

Ideas or suggestions are appreciated


Thanks

Well the first & the most basic thing to check is your ATF level & color. Remember engine must be running when checking transmission level. If you car was parked for a while & you just started the engine then it should be within "cold" range on the dip stick, if its above max mark or below min, you need to get it fixed (i.e topped up or drained). If you were driving prior to checking then it should be within "hot" range. Also have a look at the color of the fluid, if its anything but pink then its time to change it.....

I'm selling a 5 speed auto you could keep as a spare? Pm me for details?

If you want ot book in here, I can do the full flush, can also do the 200k service lol, I have a MUTTII so can do a complete read out of all codes and see if anything is logging

What you describe sounds more like early signs of wave spring failure however once the trans fluid is dropped usually if any small parts of the spring have failed they will be present in the fluid

Feel free to make contact if interested

I had that problem, was solved after new fluid was put and it was filled properly.

I'd suggest trying that first.

And when you check the ATF make sure the car is in "N"

Thanks guys

the car goes in for rego this week and then i will get the auto service aswell as the whole car itself as id rather get it done as it appears might be overdue.

otherwise it drives fine just a minor thing which i feel a good service may fix with luck!

If it was bought from a car yard, it wouldn't hurt to do a relearn on the TCU aswell. Alot of car yards tend to let their batteries go flat and regularly jump start the cars to move them around.

The other thing when doing a visual check of ATF, is also to smell the fluid to determine how burnt it is. You'll know if its bad :P...

How do you do a relearn on TCU?

Disconnect the battery for a bit and it'll reset itself. There's a proper learning procedure somewhere on the forums, but I just drive it around normally. It'll run really crap for the first few runs - I've even had it stall on me - and in my experience, some gearshifts will flare up a bit for a week or two.

Disconnect the battery for a bit and it'll reset itself. There's a proper learning procedure somewhere on the forums, but I just drive it around normally. It'll run really crap for the first few runs - I've even had it stall on me - and in my experience, some gearshifts will flare up a bit for a week or two.
Thanks, the gearbox was going from 2nd to 3rd but slipping back into neutral, reverse engages with a clunck. Then the car wasnt going anywhere, transmission was locked up. Took it in to get fixed, 2nd hand gearbox fitted, $1500 later, doing exactly the same thing.
I found one reset procedure on the forums, but its for a TE, and the search engine doesnt like short words (TJ TCU).
If you find it, a sticky would be good :)
Thanks
John

^^ is this the same for tippies?

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r161/rhys_fairall/mitsunewshiftnn8.jpg

If you find it, a sticky would be good :)
Thanks
John
The image Stinky_Pinky posted above is the one I was thinking of.

I might go post it in the DIY/FAQ section (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=82) - could come in quite handy.

Is the proceedure the same for F4A51's? What about F5A51's?

Thanks, the gearbox was going from 2nd to 3rd but slipping back into neutral, reverse engages with a clunck. Then the car wasnt going anywhere, transmission was locked up. Took it in to get fixed, 2nd hand gearbox fitted, $1500 later, doing exactly the same thing.
I found one reset procedure on the forums, but its for a TE, and the search engine doesnt like short words (TJ TCU).
If you find it, a sticky would be good :)
Thanks
John

This is not a trans issue or a learing issue, remove your inner carpet and check your ecu for water and coolant from a leaking heater core, this is a classic symptom of what happens when the ecu and or the trans relay gets wet and then has electrical shorts thus why when you have an issue with a magna trans you should get it checked by someone who knows

I am surprised that you paid the $1500 if the issue is not fixed, sounds like your trans may ahve been removed and replaced for no reason at all

Hrrmm that sucks

i got my auto serviced recently, there was metal shaving magnetised on the drain bolt but nothing major in the fluid, the car does drive alot better now, however when cold the car has a funny rev in between gear changes but goes away once the car is warm? is this normal?

I had a problem of the car kind of jolting before the service was done on occasions, this hasn't happened since servicing the auto, the ATF fluid was dirty as.

But im due for a new battery so i may do the re-learn function incase to see if it helps anymore!

Disconnect the battery for a bit and it'll reset itself. There's a proper learning procedure somewhere on the forums, but I just drive it around normally. It'll run really crap for the first few runs - I've even had it stall on me - and in my experience, some gearshifts will flare up a bit for a week or two.

Sounds like this is whats happened with my TJ, I disconnected the battery to put the red LED in the dash and since then the engine "spikes the rev's" between changes. Not happening all the time tho so i can expect this for a few weeks?
Might be worth changing to oils too might only has 72k but its still 10 years old

Hrrmm that sucks

i got my auto serviced recently, there was metal shaving magnetised on the drain bolt but nothing major in the fluid, the car does drive alot better now, however when cold the car has a funny rev in between gear changes but goes away once the car is warm? is this normal?

I had a problem of the car kind of jolting before the service was done on occasions, this hasn't happened since servicing the auto, the ATF fluid was dirty as.

But im due for a new battery so i may do the re-learn function incase to see if it helps anymore!

Sounds like you're talking about 2-3 shift flare, when cold on its first 2-3 shift it does not go straight into gear and RPMs go up during the shift and then good until the car is stopped for a while and then it does it again on its first 2-3 shift?

Sounds like you're talking about 2-3 shift flare, when cold on its first 2-3 shift it does not go straight into gear and RPMs go up during the shift and then good until the car is stopped for a while and then it does it again on its first 2-3 shift?

yeh it does this..everytime in morning or when cold the shift between 2-3 always revs in between then goes up a gear, once its warm its fine,there is also a joint when going into drive and reverse when cold too, sometimes it takes a few seconds for the car to move or i've got to rev it to make it move? is this normal? as its kinda embrassing when ive got someone in the car when it cold!!

yeh it does this..everytime in morning or when cold the shift between 2-3 always revs in between then goes up a gear, once its warm its fine,there is also a joint when going into drive and reverse when cold too, sometimes it takes a few seconds for the car to move or i've got to rev it to make it move? is this normal? as its kinda embrassing when ive got someone in the car when it cold!!

Should go into gear pretty well straight away with no unusual jolts. The re-learn procedure for the 2-3 shift and gear engagement re-learn I have seen Mitsubishi do that to my TW but it did not sort out any of my 2-3 shift flare issues and had the trans replaced 3 times each with varying degress of same issue. I just accept it now.

The R-N-D-N-R re-learn did reduce shocks and delays on engagement in one of the boxes they installed.

Check out the suggested water leak scenario just in case. i know my ecu has a plastic sheet fitted above it for protection, not sure how effective that is though.

Just thought I would add my experiences to this thread. I drive a TJ sports wagon 5sp auto, 170k on the box. Essentially the same as a VR-X as far as i'm aware.

I started to get the 2-3 "flaring" symptoms quite badly a few months ago, and very occasionally 4-5 flaring. Sometimes it would flare at very low throttle - if i caused the 2-3 shift at lowest revs/speed possible it could still flare - but it was more noticeable when the throttle was open wide as the revs would jump significantly between 2-3. I had no idea why, thought the 'box was on the way out.

Some months later, I took it to my local mechanic and got a trans flush (he used the genuine Mitsubishi fluid which he keeps in stock.) He "checked all the codes" and said it was fine, there was a bit of metal which came out when he drained the box, but said it was driving fine and he couldn't reproduce the flaring. said just ride it out and hope for the best, because a reco would be expensive.

It was driving fine for months after, then it started again but this time it clicked as to why it had started again (and why it started the first time) - I had taken the battery out to jump another car, and the previous time the alternator had been replaced.

I read around and saw some people mention it would eventually relearn by itself. Well my experience is this does NOT work. I drove for weeks and weeks and it just never seemed to sort itself out. I reset it again, drove and drove and nothing.

I found the relearn procedure here, reset it again and tried it, even tho it doesn't specify the TJ. First the R-N and D-N patterns, then forcing several 2-3 shifts between 55-60kph. and I have to say it drives perfect again now.

I recommend doing this on a quiet, straight bit of road. You have to give it a bit to make sure it holds 2 til 55kph. As i was doing it, if i didnt accel enough it would flare badly between 30-50kph.. but when I caused the 2-3 shift at 55-60 it was a quick, smooth shift. I probably did it a dozen times in succession and the 2-3 shift literally seemed to be getting better with each one, nice and tight. I then went back to accelerating normally and no more flaring.

Under normal driving conditions now, it seems to hold 1 and 2 a bit longer than it used to, as if its waiting for me to open it up, but whether I do or not, the 2-3 shift does not flare. keeping my fingers crossed.

So as far as I'm concerned the "eventual relearning" does not eventuate but the re-learn procedure does seem to work - at least it has for my TJ. Just my 2c.

yeh it does this..everytime in morning or when cold the shift between 2-3 always revs in between then goes up a gear, once its warm its fine,there is also a joint when going into drive and reverse when cold too, sometimes it takes a few seconds for the car to move or i've got to rev it to make it move? is this normal? as its kinda embrassing when ive got someone in the car when it cold!!

Sounds to me like the bands are pretty worn especially if you need to rev it to get it to move. There are a number of "stop Slip" treatments on the market - Madmagna recommends one in particular (can't remember the name) but I'd try one of those first as the alternative is probably a reco transmission which may cost more than the car is worth.