Hey,
I remember reading on these forums a while back about people thinking about going the turbo route but than going with the supercharger as it was cheaper and easier. Does anyone remember or know how much a custom turbo set up on a 380 would cost? (my guess is around $6K.. but thats just a stab in the dark)

I think a turbo would really suit the 380 as it doesn't have much pull after 3500RPM. I know that extractors and a muffler swap does free that up a fair bit with all that back pressure the 3-way cat makes but theres something about the idea of a turbocharged 380 that feels so right.

Anyway, opinions and feasibility? :facejump:

with any turbo setup that isnt common it usually blows your budget by about 3x, opinion- would be awesome to see.

Hey,
I remember reading on these forums a while back about people thinking about going the turbo route but than going with the supercharger as it was cheaper and easier. Does anyone remember or know how much a custom turbo set up on a 380 would cost? (my guess is around $6K.. but thats just a stab in the dark)

I think a turbo would really suit the 380 as it doesn't have much pull after 3500RPM. I know that extractors and a muffler swap does free that up a fair bit with all that back pressure the 3-way cat makes but theres something about the idea of a turbocharged 380 that feels so right.

Anyway, opinions and feasibility? :facejump:

In the dark and blindfolded mate. To do it properly, you'd want to forge the engine too, which means pistons, rings, rods, bore + hone, gaskets, injectors, intercooler, ECU, intercooler piping, cams, cam gears, retainers, dyno time, fuel, oils etc etc. To do it properly you'd need to set aside about $20k and be ready for things to go wrong.

Yeah.. I was thinking that the liverpool exhaust guys would have a fair bit of experience with turbos etc and seeing as they made the extractors for RPW maybe someone there would like to have a stab at it. I suppose the first guy becomes the guinea pig. Me thinks the stock motor might be able to handle it (so forgies wont be needed) seeing as it can take a supercharger running 6.5 PSI and thats constant pressure. I have a very basic understanding of how it all works so correct me if I'm wrong.
There are also a few turbo Magnas around... so its not completely new territory but yeah I can see how it could all add up very quickly.

...if only money where no object.

I wouldnt be pushing anymore than 8psi on stock 6G75, apparently the rods are fairly weak. Going turbo is a very risky decision, just look how reliable the turbo Magnas are...

The TMR Sprintex supercharger kit is the way to go if you want forced induction on a 380.

Blackstars running 8.5PSI on a stock unit.. tbh I don't think it'll gain heaps... just a bit more omph . I doubt it would exceed the sprintex option but it should give it a run for its money especially without all that mechanical loss that a supercharger brings. Also there is the ECU that will just poop itself if it thinks its being lied to. And yeah beyond 8PSI could get unreliable.

Sorry i dont own a 380 just had to jump in...

FIY if rods are same as on a magna they are good up to 17psi no worries.
Yes supercharger is not as efficient as turbo, but with Sprintex setup you get instant boost, so its a trade of, in my 4 speed auto i desperately need instant boost so i went sprintex way...
What do you mean by "ECU will poop itself if it thinks its being lied to"????????????? Regardless of how much boost you are running you need either a piggy back or full stand alone ECU to handle any amounts of boost......
Anything above 8psi unreliable??? What exactly is unreliable? Unlike most people think its not actually the boost that destroys the engine. Its when you get pinging/detonation in the cylinder which destroys it. There are few causes to detonation, first one is its gets too hot inside the chamber, since stock non turbo engines run higher compression so when you add more air ore fuel in the same amount of space that can cause detonation due to excessive heat. (im not gonna explain what detonation is, just Google it) OR when you fuel system struggles to deliver required amount of fuel and your AFR becomes too lean. So thats why its important to have larger injectors & fuel pump. Another way to prevent pinging is cooling compressed air before in enter the cylinder, that's why intercooler is used.

8.5 psi will give you massive power boost, it will shave off about 1.5 seconds of your quarter time.

There is absolutely nothing difficult in putting a turbo setup on most cars, any decent exhaust place will do it. It all comes down to $$$$$. Basic turbo setup with intercooler, without ECU, tune & cracking the engine open will cost you about 7k+. I was bout to do it, but decided to get supercharger to save money.

No the 6G75 rods are the skinny rods. if you wanna run 17psi on those, be my guest, I'd rather put in a nice set of aftermarkets and have total faith that they are good for 35psi+ (hypothetical)
$6K will buy you nothing.
$1K for a decent turbo
$1500 for decent manifolds
$1500 for a decent ECU
+ wiring
+ tuning
+ piping
And yeah an estimate of $20K is very reasonable.

I'll just say this.


If I was starting out again from scratch with a stock 380 i would definitely do the LSD modification first.

Complete, utter waste of time getting any more power out of either a Magna or 380 without fixing traction.

I reckon it is the single biggest improvement to the car that you can possibly do cause a stock 380 ain't slow.

I'll go as far as to say it is better to have a FWD car with LSD than a rear wheel drive car with LSD .


Then...with an LSD already in place you can have sensational pull off the line without any boost.

But if you must have boost....

Remember half an atmosphere (6-7) psi is like suddenly having a 6 litre engine.....with a tiny length drivetrain in comparison to a lot of domestically built cars.

I strongly recommend you consider performance upgrades in that order.

I wouldnt be pushing anymore than 8psi on stock 6G75, apparently the rods are fairly weak. Going turbo is a very risky decision, just look how reliable the turbo Magnas are...

The TMR Sprintex supercharger kit is the way to go if you want forced induction on a 380.


The rods are indeed the weakest part of the 380 engine.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/4224/comparisono.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/i/comparisono.jpg/)

;1362176']No the 6G75 rods are the skinny rods. if you wanna run 17psi on those, be my guest, I'd rather put in a nice set of aftermarkets and have total faith that they are good for 35psi+ (hypothetical)
$6K will buy you nothing.


I had a quote for 7k thats for single turbo (garret gt35), manifold, dump pipe, fitted, with intercooler.............. If you live in Sydney you probably know this place, Performance exhaust centre at Northmead

Yea if you want 12-13 second car, you need so spend 20k. But if half an atmosphere good enough for you then you wasting your money......

Blackstar, what rod are you comparing it to, something from US?

I had a quote for 7k thats for single turbo (garret gt35), manifold, dump pipe, fitted, with intercooler.............. If you live in Sydney you probably know this place, Performance exhaust centre at Northmeand

Yea if you want 12-13 second car, you need so spend 20k.

Blackstar, what rod are you comparing it to, something from US?

No if you want a reliable car, you need to spend more.
Intercooler is $200. What about an ECU? what about tuning of the whole system? is that with a new exhaust system?
$6K barely saw me walk out of a performance shop getting my TR running.
Tuning a turbocharged car isnt a 2 hour job. If your gonna do it on the dyno, your gonna need at least 10 hours MINIMUM. 10 hours x $140hr? theres $1400 in that.
Wideband sensor maybe? gauges, turbo timer, wiring for all that.
If you think $6K will get you a reliable turbocharged system, with SOMEONE ELSE installing it, please be my guest and get it done and prove me wrong.
Because I've never seen it done properly for $6000

Well. What a wonderful thread.

There is two ways to do it. 1 is to do a cheap job on a budget and run 1psi and that will cost you about $7k. Other way it to do it properly and it will cost you more than the car is worth no problems.

Now this is a topic I know a tiny bit about, I done a solid job and as most of you know my car was interstate for over 12months so it's not an easy job. Everything has to be custom made as there is no parts on the shelf for turbo magna/380s. The whole Job from start to finish gave me no change out of $20k. The Turbo and Ecu alone where $5k. It really isn't a thing to be tackled lightly.

;1362183']No if you want a reliable car, you need to spend more.
Intercooler is $200. What about an ECU? what about tuning of the whole system? is that with a new exhaust system?
$6K barely saw me walk out of a performance shop getting my TR running.
Tuning a turbocharged car isnt a 2 hour job. If your gonna do it on the dyno, your gonna need at least 10 hours MINIMUM. 10 hours x $140hr? theres $1400 in that.
Wideband sensor maybe? gauges, turbo timer, wiring for all that.
If you think $6K will get you a reliable turbocharged system, with SOMEONE ELSE installing it, please be my guest and get it done and prove me wrong.
Because I've never seen it done properly for $6000

Im not talking about tuning, ECU & other crap, i clearly said, turbo, intercooler & manifolds fitted for 7k & thats it. So im not saying 7k will get you turbo car on the road

Well. What a wonderful thread.

There is two ways to do it. 1 is to do a cheap job on a budget and run 1psi and that will cost you about $7k. Other way it to do it properly and it will cost you more than the car is worth no problems.

Now this is a topic I know a tiny bit about, I done a solid job and as most of you know my car was interstate for over 12months so it's not an easy job. Everything has to be custom made as there is no parts on the shelf for turbo magna/380s. The whole Job from start to finish gave me no change out if $20k. The Turbo and Ecu alone where $5k. It really isn't a thing to be tackled lightly.
Dont wanna nitpick, but if you visit www.3sx.com there is heaps of parts avilable for the 6G72, and even a new range of 6G74 parts available :)

Im not talking about tuning, ECU & other crap, i clearly said, turbo, intercooler & manifolds fitted for 7k & thats it. So im not saying 7k will get you turbo car on the road

Right, so what your saying is, you can get half a job done, well thats handy, half a job will do it.
If you want half a job done, anyone can do half a job for $7K. its the other half, making it all work in unisen which is the expensive part.
Soooooo, for $7K you'll see sweet FA.

Well. What a wonderful thread.

The Turbo and Ecu alone where $5k. It really isn't a thing to be tackled lightly.

Yea but look what power you are puting out.... Clearly you were chasing more then 7psi

;1362188']Right, so what your saying is, you can get half a job done, well thats handy, half a job will do it.
If you want half a job done, anyone can do half a job for $7K. its the other half, making it all work in unisen which is the expensive part.
Soooooo, for $7K you'll see sweet FA.

Dude are you alright? What part of budget 7k JUST FOR turbo dont you understand, obviusly you need to do the rest at extra cost...

Sorry i dont own a 380 just had to jump in...

FIY if rods are same as on a magna they are good up to 17psi no worries.
Yes supercharger is not as efficient as turbo, but with Sprintex setup you get instant boost, so its a trade of, in my 4 speed auto i desperately need instant boost so i went sprintex way...
What do you mean by "ECU will poop itself if it thinks its being lied to"????????????? Regardless of how much boost you are running you need either a piggy back or full stand alone ECU to handle any amounts of boost......
Anything above 8psi unreliable??? What exactly is unreliable? Unlike most people think its not actually the boost that destroys the engine. Its when you get pinging/detonation in the cylinder which destroys it. There are few causes to detonation, first one is its gets too hot inside the chamber, since stock non turbo engines run higher compression so when you add more air ore fuel in the same amount of space that can cause detonation due to excessive heat. (im not gonna explain what detonation is, just Google it) OR when you fuel system struggles to deliver required amount of fuel and your AFR becomes too lean. So thats why its important to have larger injectors & fuel pump. Another way to prevent pinging is cooling compressed air before in enter the cylinder, that's why intercooler is used.

8.5 psi will give you massive power boost, it will shave off about 1.5 seconds of your quarter time.

There is absolutely nothing difficult in putting a turbo setup on most cars, any decent exhaust place will do it. It all comes down to $$$$$. Basic turbo setup with intercooler, without ECU, tune & cracking the engine open will cost you about 7k+. I was bout to do it, but decided to get supercharger to save money.

ECU- The ecu on the 380s (from what I gather) is very stringent. So if you were to say.. have forgies and try to push 17PSI it would throw a CEL... because the O2 sensors would give figures outside its tolerable parameters.. a Piggyback would be a must but I foresee a lot of error codes.

As for more than 8PSI... my thinking was that even if the rods would hold but the piston's look kinda weak *there are pictures somewhere on these forums* but if it can keep up with a supercharger it should be able to keep up with a turbo. It would also need to be reliable and there is the transmission to think about as well... you cant just shove gobs of power down there and expect it to hold. Sometimes people forget cars aren't about a single component or having the most power, its how it holds as a entire vehicle.. which is what drew me to the 380 in the first place there is no one single aspect that stands out but when you put it all together you have something really special (like voltron).

Heck this is a hypothetical anyway (I'm in the process of becoming a investment banker so my mind attaches a $$ value to everything)... before I even consider putting any cash down on powertrain theres suspension, brakes, LSD etc.

I can still dream though right? haha

I think Ive gone off on bit of a tangent..

Blackstar, what rod are you comparing it to, something from US?

Thats his forged rods he has custom made for his new engine.

Dude are you alright? What part of budget 7k JUST FOR turbo dont you understand, obviusly you need to do the rest at extra cost...

Right, but whats the point of budgeting for half a project.

;1362194']Right, but whats the point of budgeting for half a project.

Yeah, it's like getting a quote of $100,000 to build a house, but then finding out that you need another $50,000 to paint it, carpet it & wire it!

Well mostly because you can shop around for other parts..... there are few choices when it comes to ECUs, depending which way you go can have quite a diffrence, i.e piggy back vs stand alone. So there you go, you can be talking about 2k of differnece right there, just on one part

PS builders most of the time quote on cheapest package exactly for the reason that selecting things like finishes can have massive impact on house cost. I know this how, its casue im an estimator for a building company....

I really don't see the point of building a turbo car, unless you can go all out like Ego and get it done right the 1st time.

If you really wan't a turbo car go out and buy a legnum/galant or equal value turbo car better performance than a 380/magna and a lot cheaper than strapping a turbo to a N/A built engine.

At least you know a factory turbo car has been built for boost and wont have the teething problems you may or will get with a N/A Turbo conversion.

Nothing beats factory boost.

Well mostly because you can shop around for other parts..... there are few choices when it comes to ECUs, depending which way you go can have quite a diffrence, i.e piggy back vs stand alone. So there you go, you can be talking about 2k of differnece right there, just on one part

PS builders most of the time quote on cheapest package exactly for the reason that selecting things like finishes can have massive impact on house cost. I know this how, its casue im an estimator for a building company....

theres nothing in the way of custom ecu's for the 380 without replacing all electrics. piggyback is the only feasible option. I saw a $4000 kit for a 6g72 in a FTO which is were my $6K came from... soo assuming thats starting price for bits, $3000 for piggyback and tune, $2K for installationy/labour $5K for R&D costs. On the surface thats $16000 for a turbo setup the 380 without cracking open the engine which I assume is a minimum.

imagine...with 7PSI boost that could be 250-260 KW atf. You could be sitting at the lights.. take of with minimal wheel spin as the low grunt of a v6 starts you off than the tranny jumps into 2nd gear and the turbo spins up, you sit there in a full sized sedan awaiting a gush of power... it doesn't come. You mash the accelerator and hit the rev limiter and the turbo kicks in where you didnt have power before, the needle jumps down and your in 3rd gear holding on for dear life as you quickly approach 5000RPM. The rear view mirror shows you silly commodores barely off the line with flabbergasted drivers, you ease back and feel like a god. All while barely hitting 70km/h

Again... Stab in the dark.

I really don't see the point of building a turbo car, unless you can go all out like Ego and get it done right the 1st time.

If you really wan't a turbo car go out and buy a legnum/galant or equal value turbo car better performance than a 380/magna and a lot cheaper than strapping a turbo to a N/A built engine.

At least you know a factory turbo car has been built for boost and wont have the teething problems you may or will get with a N/A Turbo conversion.

I agree. Modding gives you very little value for money. The $30K you spend doing up a 4-door sedan could be $30K towards a sports car. Than again... thats not why you do it. It's because you like the car you have. A car can be a lot like a girlfriend... you know shes a crummy b**h but you see better in her even though all your friends tell you otherwise.

Look guys its up to individual what you want to do with your car. I know how much it costs to build a proper quick car, here is a list of parts im buying for a project GTO im building with my brother, coming from the states, by the way comapre the price vs what we pay here!!!!.
http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af244/e363ma78/ATT00001.jpg
For my magna all im doing is sprintex & thats it, i see no point poring more money into it, but thats me

So your becoming an investment banker,cool,but throwing 20K at a 380 would not be a great start to your career.If you must mod then do the basics ,maybe the LSD too, but otherwise just enjoy it for what it is and when you start making some serious moolah,as bankers do , you can buy something more suited to your speed needs.

So your becoming an investment banker,cool,but throwing 20K at a 380 would not be a great start to your career.If you must mod then do the basics ,maybe the LSD too, but otherwise just enjoy it for what it is and when you start making some serious moolah,as bankers do , you can buy something more suited to your speed needs.

haha Yeah... again, HYPOTHETICAL. Other than look up how turbo/superchargers work and if it would be possible with my current car I haven't done much else. Its nice to bounce ideas around. I don't think Ill actually build it. Theres something about researching, chucking together parts and prices than dreaming of the possibilities that I find oddly enjoyable.

Still.. it's not all in vain. This thread may give others ideas as to whats possible. I cant be the only one thinking along these lines? :D

pretty sure the guys that came up with the W16 quad turbo engine (in the Veyron) would have been dreamers at some stage. Maybe one of them wanted to do up their Volkswagen Beetle in the 60's by transplanting the powerhouses of 2 Cadillac's Fleetwood engines balancing on top of a body made out of the old tree house. They called him crazy, overzealous, frivolous ... but look at him now. xD

;1362213']Nothing beats factory boost.

Oh I know!! ;) Just gonna throw this out there, as things are shaping up for a facotry boosted option like my 6A13TT project:

Engine + Harness...1K
Gear box...1K
Labour (myself plus mates) ...$500 (beer money)
Service items (oil filter, coolant...blah) $200 (but could be more pending if engine needs 100,000 service)
Getting the VR4 harness wired into magna ....1K
Clutch upgrade $500
+ other things I havent done yet like working out shafts, engine mounts and all that still is up in the air but at this stage

Grand total (Thus far)
~ $4,200

Roughly going to say you could probably do this for around 7K all up? If your willing to get your hands dirty.

The 6A13TT runs factory 7 or 8 psi... now these have re-flash ECU's (not all models but some) as well as can fit a twin TD05 turbo upgrade quiet nicely as well and push 12 - 18psi through the engine and in theory, should be reliable** but not garenteed, things like injector upgrade may need to be considered into the TD05 conversion (dont know havent looked too deep into it)

So theres my 2C about factory boost options

****ing hell I laugh at the guy who says "I know how much a performance build costs" You know sweet **** all. How about listening to the people who have actually done it and have paid their own hard earned money at the other end of a finished product. Even my car, which is factory boosted, to build the whole motor, with a new turbo, intercooler, piping, ECu etc etc was over $10k. You are ****ing KIDDING yourself if you think you can do one third of **** all for $7k.

I think Benny was referring to the words "Built not Bought."

Costs are going to be different for ANY turbo build. So So SO many things to take into account.

I think it follows the basic rule of: "Fast, cheap, good. Pick two."

I think the OP's best option is ring TMR and get them to fit a 6.5 psi sprintex kit.

Drive away same day.......for only $6k


(and it rhymes too...lol)

I think the OP's best option is ring TMR and get them to fit a 6.5 psi sprintex kit.

Drive away same day.......for only $6k


(and it rhymes too...lol)

No brainer really, no better feeling i would think than dropping your car off on the way to work then , later, picking up a sorted car for a kick arse drive home. Sweeeeet!

****ing hell I laugh at the guy who says "I know how much a performance build costs" You know sweet **** all. How about listening to the people who have actually done it and have paid their own hard earned money at the other end of a finished product. Even my car, which is factory boosted, to build the whole motor, with a new turbo, intercooler, piping, ECu etc etc was over $10k. You are ****ing KIDDING yourself if you think you can do one third of **** all for $7k.

I am going to assume this 7K reference was nothing to do with me, I was just showing what a pre boosted motor conversion was costing me so far as a rough idea for the members, because I do have a pretty good idea on what a turbo build cost. I spent over 30K on the TR and never really got it running right!! Bottomless pit of money that car was!!

Ben, you'd be a clown not to do a 100K on that motor before it's running. Do it now, no need to worry for at least 6 years.

I am going to assume this 7K reference was nothing to do with me, I was just showing what a pre boosted motor conversion was costing me so far as a rough idea for the members, because I do have a pretty good idea on what a turbo build cost. I spent over 30K on the TR and never really got it running right!! Bottomless pit of money that car was!!

Not you, this guy.


Look guys its up to individual what you want to do with your car. I know how much it costs to build a proper quick car, here is a list of parts im buying for a project GTO im building with my brother, coming from the states, by the way comapre the price vs what we pay here!!!!. For my magna all im doing is sprintex & thats it, i see no point poring more money into it, but thats me

It's different if you do all the work yourself, but I don't know many, if any people on here, with a workshop that can make exhausts and intercooler piping with a dyno in it aswell.

;1362360']Ben, you'd be a clown not to do a 100K on that motor before it's running. Do it now, no need to worry for at least 6 years.


I dont think he has VTEC YO!

Oh and there is a simple answer to a power upgrade that doesnt cost no where near as much as the others and wont affect fuel economy as much.

NOS!!!

imagine...with 7PSI boost that could be 250-260 KW atf. You could be sitting at the lights.. take of with minimal wheel spin as the low grunt of a v6 starts you off than the tranny jumps into 2nd gear and the turbo spins up, you sit there in a full sized sedan awaiting a gush of power... it doesn't come. You mash the accelerator and hit the rev limiter and the turbo kicks in where you didnt have power before, the needle jumps down and your in 3rd gear holding on for dear life as you quickly approach 5000RPM. The rear view mirror shows you silly commodores barely off the line with flabbergasted drivers, you ease back and feel like a god. All while barely hitting 70km/h

Again... Stab in the dark.
Not without an LSD you wont. Even with the stock 380 it will light up like a Christmas tree at the lights without TC on and get all squirrelly in the process.

I think the OP's best option is ring TMR and get them to fit a 6.5 psi sprintex kit.

Drive away same day.......for only $6k


(and it rhymes too...lol)
This would be by far the best option. Reliable and proven on numerous cars.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that if you go down the turbo route you wont be able to use the fly by wire throttle, so there is another thing that you will have to allow for.

Not you, this guy.



It's different if you do all the work yourself, but I don't know many, if any people on here, with a workshop that can make exhausts and intercooler piping with a dyno in it aswell.


I was only making a point that i just spent $7k US for parts only & also that how much cheaper they are over there, twin turbo kit with external wastegauges cost me just over 2.5k. Just to compare RPW wants over 5k for similar kit for a magna (not to mention awesome quality of RWP, cough cough)........ Anyhow i dont understand where you getting 7k figure from, the GTO is going to cost roughly 13k with all parts & labour & thats without working the egnine at all. Once then engine is done it will push this past 20k easy.

My point is not everyone needs to go this way, if all you want is 6.5 psi there are plenty of options & you dont have to spend 20k. Or am i wrong? I mean not everyone wants a car that smashes quarter in 12 seconds. My sprintex magna will be lucky to do mid 14s & im very very happy with that. Kit installed & tuned will only cost me 6,500k thast with all extra parts like injectors, water meth kit, pump. I know yu ll strugle to find second hand kit for 380 so obviously you will have to spend more then i did.

Gotta agree with Disciple & Tuffy... and laugh a little at the comment on magna's and 380's stock internals being good for 17psi. lol!

20k is a more realistic budget as you definately need to take into account the fact that do you simple want to fit up a turbo... or do you want it done right and in reliable working order?
I won't repeat what others have said in total but if you want it done right, it's going to take more than several grand to do it.

I've been there, looked at turbo charging and supercharging my old Ralliart. I decided not to go down the turbo charged road in the end because of the realistic budget needed vs reliability. Hey, if you have a heap of cash to spend then go for it i say, but do it right.

If Mitsu had made the Ralliart magna's like the Galant/Legnum turbo models or the option of the supercharger as well, then i believe their popularity would have sky rocketed. They already have a reliable turbo setup that would almost suit a magna's setup with a number of adjustments. In all honesty, a twin turbo setup is the 'ideal' turbo setup for the magna or 380. I agree with Blackstar too, the LSD make's all the difference putting the power down on the road.

Thats nice man, always was a fan of xr6t, one of few cars where you can see that your money for the mods are not wasted for tiny gains.... I was reffering to stock rod from magna engine, RPW recons its good for 17psi, i didnt know 6g75 rods were diffrent & so skinny, so yea no way those could handle any seroius mods. In regards to sprintex i decided to take the opportunity and grab last unit sprintex had which comes with warranty just in case, given the history of those units, they arent exactly the most realible.

Guys on 3si have spent $10K ALONE on the drivetrain. Billet end housings, different spline aftermarket tailshafts, different diffs, bellhousing brace's etc. $20K buys you peanuts if you want power.

I've been looking at turbos for the 6G75 behind the scenes fro my project car.

just don't want lag, hate lag, the sprintex spoils you with its instant response...would be nice to have both...Hmmmmmm

Lag wouldn't be a problem with a smaller turbo and exhaust housing on say a GT30/35 turbo. The 3.8L has plenty of low down torque.

I was just thinking, instead of turboing a Magna/380, we've already had a member prove that the 4G63T engine fits in a 3rd gen, and for the outlay of a front cut or whole engine (probably around $2k-$3k) it might be more beneficial to do an engine transplant. The later model 4G63T like in my car has 206kw/422Nm in stock trim and if you're putting it into a 3rd gen Magna, the weight won't be much different - Evo 8 = 1400kgs, Ralliart Magna = 1500kgs.

Food for thought.

Don't want lag, brake boost that bee-atch.

Lag wouldn't be a problem with a smaller turbo and exhaust housing on say a GT30/35 turbo. The 3.8L has plenty of low down torque.

I was just thinking, instead of turboing a Magna/380, we've already had a member prove that the 4G63T engine fits in a 3rd gen, and for the outlay of a front cut or whole engine (probably around $2k-$3k) it might be more beneficial to do an engine transplant. The later model 4G63T like in my car has 206kw/422Nm in stock trim and if you're putting it into a 3rd gen Magna, the weight won't be much different - Evo 8 = 1400kgs, Ralliart Magna = 1500kgs.

Food for thought.

Yeah but we all know 4cyl's are women cars.








:P

;1362187']Dont wanna nitpick, but if you visit www.3sx.com there is heaps of parts avilable for the 6G72, and even a new range of 6G74 parts available :)

What pistons & rods and a flywheel is about all you can just buy off the shelf.

What pistons & rods and a flywheel is about all you can just buy off the shelf.

Hey better then nothing :P they also have stroker cranks for the 72 aswell.

The advantage of turbo is the exponential increase in boost, but if you're going to limit it to low boost like you have to on a stock na engine then a supercharger becomes more favourable because of the instant response, esp (as said above) for auto.

i've got a customer with a BA FPV GT-P that has been supercharged using parts from the mustang.... this thing puts out 391Kw (525HP) and even with its LSD it just cant agree with the bitumen.
one damn fine car.

but so far its chaffed out an a/c pipe due to relocating the alternator, blown that altenator due to an inferior asian knock off being fitted (stator and rectifier burnt due to rectifier not being able to handle the engine bay temps.. it was still under warranty so the supplier sent us one and paid us for our labour.... a rare and pleasant suprise), then snapped the rotor shaft of the replacement altenator (due to excessive inertial torque) in which i fitted a genuine article compatible rotor and hopefully that will sort it out.. time will tell.

these problems are after the customer had spent $30K on having the conversion done

i've got a customer with a BA FPV GT-P that has been supercharged using parts from the mustang.... this thing puts out 391Kw (525HP) and even with its LSD it just cant agree with the bitumen.
one damn fine car.

but so far its chaffed out an a/c pipe due to relocating the alternator, blown that altenator due to an inferior asian knock off being fitted (stator and rectifier burnt due to rectifier not being able to handle the engine bay temps.. it was still under warranty so the supplier sent us one and paid us for our labour.... a rare and pleasant suprise), then snapped the rotor shaft of the replacement altenator (due to excessive inertial torque) in which i fitted a genuine article compatible rotor and hopefully that will sort it out.. time will tell.

these problems are after the customer had spent $30K on having the conversion done

Unfortunately for that guy, a Falcon GT-P is just a standard Falcon underneath, and they're not meant to take near on for 400kw at the rear wheels. Things will break, and often.

So after 50 or so posts we've agreed that a

-twin turbo V6,
-with plenty of traction (LSD and/or AWD)
-a strong forged engine


anything else? :happy::happy:

Thread cleaned. We're here to discuss the viability of turbocharging a 380. If you want to talk to a member about their ride, don't take this thread off-topic, send them a PM instead.

So after 50 or so posts we've agreed that a

-twin turbo V6,
-with plenty of traction (LSD and/or AWD)
-a strong forged engine


anything else? :happy::happy:

extractors would be a no brainer must have.

Im not so sure about tuning though I know MAF sensor would adjust the amount of fuel but I don't think it would be able to adapt to the sudden increases in airflow... or would it? Anyway that can easily be solved with a Piggyback. Theres 2 out there right? Unichip Q or ChipTorque Xede. Anyone know which one works better? or would be better suited to turbocharging?

The RPW site says that a Halltec replacement ECU would be needed for a twin turbo setup... which leads me to believe that there are other parameters that need to be tweaked? or are they expecting the figures the MAF sensor throws back to be way out of the ECU's parameters or change too quickly?

so yes. Add extractors and piggyback to the list.

Unfortunately for that guy, a Falcon GT-P is just a standard Falcon underneath, and they're not meant to take near on for 400kw at the rear wheels. Things will break, and often.

then its kinda like a 380... if it aint oem then its bound to break

extractors would be a no brainer must have.

Im not so sure about tuning though I know MAF sensor would adjust the amount of fuel but I don't think it would be able to adapt to the sudden increases in airflow... or would it? Anyway that can easily be solved with a Piggyback. Theres 2 out there right? Unichip Q or ChipTorque Xede. Anyone know which one works better? or would be better suited to turbocharging?

The RPW site says that a Halltec replacement ECU would be needed for a twin turbo setup... which leads me to believe that there are other parameters that need to be tweaked? or are they expecting the figures the MAF sensor throws back to be way out of the ECU's parameters or change too quickly?


so yes. Add extractors and piggyback to the list.

You don't have extractors on a turbocharged car. only on an N/A and supercharged car.
You can tune the MAF sensor with an SAFC or i think the Apexi Neo does the same thing? Will need to double check


then its kinda like a 380... if it aint oem then its bound to break
Like I said before on the 3KGT website people have spent $10-$20K JUST upgrading the transmission and driveline before even putting big power down. You want big power, you needa deal with the fact shit is gonna break. This is why I have picked up 2 spare manual gearboxes, when they were on sale for about $50 each...it's cheap insurance when one breaks. If only I could find a 5 or 6sp FWD converted AWD getrag....

[QUOTE='[TUFFTR];1362738']You don't have extractors on a turbocharged car. only on an N/A and supercharged car.

whoops, tubular exhaust manifold would count as part of the turbo :oopssign:

WTF! my post was discussing the viability, the lack of !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!and was suggesting that he chose a better platform for such ,What not a Charlie Sheen fan????????
Thread cleaned. We're here to discuss the viability of turbocharging a 380. If you want to talk to a member about their ride, don't take this thread off-topic, send them a PM instead.

in case anyone else is as n00by as me:

http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/turbo%20manifold%20design.html

So after 50 or so posts we've agreed that a

-twin turbo V6,
-with plenty of traction (LSD and/or AWD)
-a strong forged engine


anything else? :happy::happy:
A Healthy Cheque Book..:)

A Healthy Cheque Book..:)
You have forgotton that Blackie doesn't have to worry too much about the cheque book as he has the money tree out the back, although Mecha and I have done an midnight raid or two on it lol

You have forgotton that Blackie doesn't have to worry too much about the cheque book as he has the money tree out the back.
Post me some seedlings.. I Could do with one of them..:)

the things are possible / its the cost and reason-ability of doing it... rebuilding 380 to Turbo... or get Falcon Turbo of the shelf for much least cost... (even rebuilding na falcon to turbo doesnt sound right)...

this tread should prove viability instead of speculating and if speculating than a bit more than "I think..." ... I spent time going thru with hope but it lost the plot quite a while back...

I wouldn't turbo anything without regard to traction.

I mean seriously, it's all about traction when you get above 200kw atw.

Even a prius can blow away a V8 thats spinning on the spot with a poor launch,....left, then right, then left again...lol

and front wheel drives are notorious for wheel spin at the best of times let alone when you have a supercharger or turbo bolted on. LSD would be essential equipment first up.

Coilovers would be a good investment too. Chisholm spoke highly of the effect that coilovers had on his Magna with Sprintex/LSD. Stiff rear end = much less squatting = more front-end traction.

and front wheel drives are notorious for wheel spin at the best of times let alone when you have a supercharger or turbo bolted on. LSD would be essential equipment first up.

why is this sorry? i always thought it would be the opposite as the engine sits above the driven wheels. rather then a rwd car that can have less weight above the driven wheels.

why is this sorry? i always thought it would be the opposite as the engine sits above the driven wheels. rather then a rwd car that can have less weight above the driven wheels.

front lifts up= less traction.

stiffer suspension = less lift=more traction

why is this sorry? i always thought it would be the opposite as the engine sits above the driven wheels. rather then a rwd car that can have less weight above the driven wheels.

With cars its all Physics.
Under acceleration the objects mass moves backwards, when decellerating the reverse happens and it moves forwards. same with turning. You turn right the mass moves to the left and vice versa. having a vehicle with a stiffer ride and low centre of gravity helps stop this by transferring the mass back to the centre.

Note to self Sl on front for good traction, haha thanks for clearing that up.

FWD are notorious for wheelspin under initial acceleration due to nose lift. The more the power the greater the problem. RWD tend to be better because the weight shift actually helps put relatively more weight down on the rubber. Stiffening the front will help in more than acceleration and traction, it will also improve your braking. Your standard springs are higher and softer meaning that there is more downward travel in the spring before you hit maximum compression and maximum braking potential. With lowered heavier springs your travel is reduced as is the time it takes to get there thus maximising your braking potential earlier= shorter stopping distance. Your car is also more settled under heavy braking and less likely to be squirmy and squirrilly. More important than the springs is matching them with a quality damper. If you were to ask Fooz about braking after fitting his coilovers I am sure he would have noticed a difference even from the Superlows.

FWD are notorious for wheelspin under initial acceleration due to nose lift. The more the power the greater the problem. RWD tend to be better because the weight shift actually helps put relatively more weight down on the rubber. Stiffening the front will help in more than acceleration and traction, it will also improve your braking. Your standard springs are higher and softer meaning that there is more downward travel in the spring before you hit maximum compression and maximum braking potential. With lowered heavier springs your travel is reduced as is the time it takes to get there thus maximising your braking potential earlier= shorter stopping distance. Your car is also more settled under heavy braking and less likely to be squirmy and squirrilly. More important than the springs is matching them with a quality damper. If you were to ask Fooz about braking after fitting his coilovers I am sure he would have noticed a difference even from the Superlows.

Yeah mate big difference, I can just stand on them & it comes to a stop with no nose dive what so ever. Wheelspin is also improved but not hugely since I have a fair bit of torque there anyway with the blower.

The ABS will be working overtime once I get the 356mm rotors & 8 pot calipers on lol ...... hmmmm what a package it will be then, huge brakes, LSD, coilovers & blower :) ...... I love my car :happy:

if noone listens to Ego or the other that spent big bucks boosting the magna or 380 has rocks for brains

Also an interesting topic. Want to put their two cents. I want to say how much it is worth. In Russia in 2010 made turbo for 6G75 MIVEC. What was required for this purpose? Set of forged pistons for 6G74 (stroker)Wiseco STD Bore 95.0mm, Stroke 90mm, CR 8.5, Pin 22mm. http://s51.radikal.ru/i132/1112/0c/cecace0dc2f1.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s60.radikal.ru/i170/1112/42/48102fb3f058.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) So would require set forged crank arms BrianCrower http://s59.radikal.ru/i165/1112/41/e6f045add20b.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) Set of studs and nuts ARP. Package inserts crankshaft for 6G74. And two turbochargers Tial GT3071 http://s017.radikal.ru/i421/1112/7a/5f75d1c5f833.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s60.radikal.ru/i167/1112/54/d00f750ad029.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s017.radikal.ru/i438/1112/52/535a8ef64b44.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) In the end it turned out 25PSI. Output amounted to 580 hp. The price of the issue 6800 USD. http://s017.radikal.ru/i412/1112/69/e2d446a98a4b.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru)

However, later it became clear that such a power does not convey FWD. I had to make a AWD. The donor was a EVO IX. For what would join the gearbox from EVO had to make a plate on the 5D milling machine. The price of the issue still 8000USD. Total: 14800 USD http://s51.radikal.ru/i132/1112/50/ef9241c6d981.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s017.radikal.ru/i434/1112/65/0f84bec68e82.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s015.radikal.ru/i333/1112/62/81ed14519df5.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s017.radikal.ru/i441/1112/14/d0e69aeae69c.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s017.radikal.ru/i432/1112/eb/54c3569b0f01.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru)

An awd manual!

Are you able to make more of those adapter plates up?

http://s51.radikal.ru/i132/1112/50/ef9241c6d981.jpg

Some of us would be interested in buy one of these if you are able to make more..

Некоторые из нас были бы заинтересованы в покупке одного из этих, если вы сможете сделать больше ..

Make more for us and we will buy!!

A fu cking awd manual!

Are you able to make more of those adapter plates up?


http://s51.radikal.ru/i132/1112/50/ef9241c6d981.jpg

Some of us would be interested in buy one of these if you are able to make more..

Некоторые из нас были бы заинтересованы в покупке одного из этих, если вы сможете сделать больше ..


Make more for us and we will buy!!

This guy does some unbelievable work doesn't he.....

Guys, this is not cheep detail. Be sure to have the advance payment. I could do all, a question of price. Gearbox from EVO, can withstand up to 700 hp. She mechanical. In everyday life this is the power is not needed. If the capacity of up to 400 hp for all-wheel drive enough transaxle, transfer case, and a rear gear use of the platform PS41. Mitsubishi Endeavor

What kind of payment are you seeking? I am only chasing the adapter plate.

If you have a real interest, I will tell the price and form of payment after 2 days. Can you be interested in forged T - shaped pistons. They are easier to 3 times. Capacity of up to 700 hp. http://s11.radikal.ru/i183/1112/8e/f3ab29df8463.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s011.radikal.ru/i315/1112/62/0d216f1d21b1.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru)

I knew the adapter plate method would be easiest. Many people in the UK use this method in FWD vauxhalls and its really not too tricky as far as i remember

Stayer, how much for 11:1 compression pistons to suit non-mivec 6G75?? And another price for 6G75 custom conrods please?

I'm very interested in what you can do...

I can offer connecting rods made of titanium. The weight of the standard crank arm 780 grams. Titanium weighs 340 grams. Capacity of up to 800 hp. The price of an average of 158 USD per 1 unit. The construction material for the TI6AL4V grade 5. Bolt ARP 2000. http://s005.radikal.ru/i210/1112/70/c4794062575c.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru)

piston worth an average of 140 USD http://i023.radikal.ru/1112/de/fd7711abd44a.gif (http://www.radikal.ru) However, there are a number of nuances. If you know the parameters which you need. Will be one price. If you do not know the parameters, and will have to deal with design development, will be a different price. I can throw the questionnaire for the piston. If you can fill in all the fields, then the price will be minimal. The term of production and the pistons and connecting rods for 40-45 days.

Thread cleaned up...please try and keep it on topic this time.

Very good price on pistons, if somebody here can supply Stayer the above details for a standard 6g75 non-mivec piston, that would be great...

Would it be possible to mail you a stock piston and I can supply the combustion chamber volume, then you can design a higher compression piston??

Back this to AWD gearbox thing, I don't understand why nobody has enquired about having a custom bellhousing produced yet?

It is done reguarly on RWD applications, why could it not be done for 6G7X engines?

Very good price on pistons, if somebody here can supply Stayer the above details for a standard 6g75 non-mivec piston, that would be great...

Would it be possible to mail you a stock piston and I can supply the combustion chamber volume, then you can design a higher compression piston??

I took off the application form, which you need to fill. If you do not know some of the fields, it is necessary to carry out engineering calculations.http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82777&page=2 The price was listed if all fields are filled. The piston can be done any, but the price depends on the design works. You can not fill in the fields, just to name a model of the engine, the name of the desired compression ratio and the desired output. We will design and produce the desired part.

6g75, 11:1 compression ratio, 8500-8000rpm and 450hp at the crank. Naturally aspirated and 150-100hp shot of nitrous oxide (n2o)

Given a link to this topic. I would like to clarify. Measurement of the piston are produced using a micrometer with 2 digits after the decimal point. I want to say, piston not round. The measurements are conducted at the height and width of the 4 locations. Here is a drawing of a T-shaped piston. But any piston can be measured by the scheme. 1. Information about the car and the engine
Model of car: *
Model of car: *
Year of graduation: *
Model (code) of the engine: *
The number and arrangement of cylinders: *
Number of valves per cylinder: *

2. The requirements for the engine
The volume of the engine, cc: * V
Cylinder diameter, mm: * D
Piston stroke, mm: * S
Boost: * There Are No
The boost pressure, bar* P:
Compression level: * e
Maximum rotation frequency, rev/min: * n

Maximum engine power, h.p: * N

3. Operating conditions
Mode of operation: * Road-
Participation in drag-racing championship: * No Yes
Rationale for the manufacture of T- pistons
for road use:
Class, a group of sports competitions,
the availability of the technical requirements:
http://s60.radikal.ru/i168/1112/6a/6c2005b9757a.gif (http://www.radikal.ru)
The height of the piston, mm: L
The diameter of the piston pin, mm: * d
The length of the piston pin, mm: I
Compression height, mm: * H
The thickness of the upper
head of connecting rod, mm: w*
The distance between the beans of the piston, mm: * B
The width of the top
head of connecting rod, mm: * b
Planting a finger in the connecting rod: * Press Floating
Displacement of an axis of a finger from the axis of the piston, mm: a
The number of piston rings on the piston: k
The thickness of the piston rings, mm: h



These data are needed for the manufacture of piston. If you do not know these data with an accuracy of hundredths of a millimeter, it is necessary to carry out development work.


5. Parameters for the calculation of crowding out (depressions in the bottom)
The volume of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head, the cc: * v
The thickness of the cylinder head gasket, mm: g*

6. More information
Comments,
additional information:
The need for the manufacture of fingers: * Leave the staff of the Manufacture of the new regular or special


7. Information about customer
Name: *
Company:
Phone: *
Fax:
E-mail: *

from other thread

Want to disappoint you. With such requests must be made CR 8,0:1 . In another case, the pistons will collapse from the detonation. It does not matter where they are made, the laws of physics do not cheat.

I want my 2 cents to put it. You must take into account the speed of the piston. What would the engine worked for a long time and safe, piston speed should not exceed 23 m/sec. So let's count. For example the engine 6G75. Stroke - 90mm. Оne revolution of the crank shaft - 90 x 2 = 180mm. 180 x 1000 rpm = 180000mm. Converting millimetres to metres 180000 : 1000 = 180m. And divide by 60 seconds. 180 : 60 = 3 m/sec. Now you can find out how many thousands of revolutions per minute can develop the engine. 23 : 3 = 7,6 Thus unleash the engine 6G75 more than 7600 rpm not desirable. If untwist it above these revolutions, a sharp decline of the resource. According to this same formula can be calculated momentum for other engines. Here is what happened. 6G72 - 9200 rpm. 6G74 - 8200 rpm. 4G64 (69) - 6900 rpm. Thus, the greater the number of cylinders (less stroke) the above can spin the engine. Or it is necessary to sacrifice the resource. For Example Formula 1 engine 8-cylinder, 2,4L. 21000 rpm, 850 hp. Resource 4 hours. Do not forget about it.

6G72. Initially the engine was 198 hp. After the installation of the compressor 261 hp. http://s08.radikal.ru/i181/1111/42/da9aab17b25c.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s017.radikal.ru/i407/1111/2c/86b9a8c1340e.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s017.radikal.ru/i401/1111/ea/548490b9fbe0.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) However, as he said, the weak point of the pistons. 1 month later they broke up. This is due to the fact, that they had not done setting ECU. The engine had worked with the explosion. Destroyed the bridges between the piston rings. http://s017.radikal.ru/i414/1111/86/c8819460c563.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://i057.radikal.ru/1111/a3/480be7e76ba3.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) Further determined forged pistons. And tune ECU. Output amounted to 315 hp. The car was still alive. http://s017.radikal.ru/i438/1111/01/081d1c8ad748.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://s43.radikal.ru/i101/1111/08/fd4e08c126f3.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) http://i032.radikal.ru/1111/24/c0f33f9d9603.jpg (http://www.radikal.ru) If you want boost, it is real, but you need to configure the ECU.

Are you saying that 250-300kW at the front wheels is not achievable with nitrous (or 230kW without nitrous?).

There are people in America with 6g75 mivec and intake and exhaust and a tune making more than 210kW at the front wheels...

Surely cam and nitrous oxide can make more power (or just cam and higher compression ratio)

All of the above have no boost - I only want naturally aspirated.

Are you saying that 250-300kW at the front wheels is not achievable with nitrous (or 230kW without nitrous?).

There are people in America with 6g75 mivec and intake and exhaust and a tune making more than 210kW at the front wheels...

Surely cam and nitrous oxide can make more power (or just cam and higher compression ratio)

All of the above have no boost - I only want naturally aspirated.

He is saying the limit of the engine is 7600rpm, so your 8000-8500 aspirations are not possible. For that kind of range you would need shorter stroke (see: 6G74).

Ben, how are you going to get a 450 hp not using boost? Or I do not understand?

I thought you meant at the crankshaft, not at the wheels. 450hp at the crank is about 280kW at the wheels.

My apologies, communication error.

Upgraded camshaft, higher compression, full balance and nitrous oxide (n2o) should make big power.

You are an optimist Ben. But I want to disappoint you. The engine 6G75 with initial capacity of 230 hp you don't get 230 kW. I'll do a few calculations in the near future and will write to you.

http://club4g.org/board/eclipse-performance/1844-dyno-queen-leaderboard.html

6G75 mivec dyno, lots at 240hp. Camshaft and nitrous should make more than 300hp easy.

Can you ceramic coat the pistons too?

I wrote about the speed of the piston of 23 m/sec. This is determined not by the ceramic coated piston, and the friction of the iron rings on the cylinder walls. If applied coating silicate coating on the walls of the cylinder, the piston speed can be increased up to 25 m/sec. But as you understand, it is impossible. 6G75 MIVEC 258 hp.

And you can see 350-400 hp at the front wheels with nitrous....

Ceramic coat piston not for high RPM, but to endure high combustion temperature when using nitrous oxide (n2o)

Ceramic coating piston is used to reduce the wear and tear. It will not save you from detonation and temperature. To do this, use increased clearance for thermal expansion. I don't understand why you don't want to boost. Nitrous it's not safe, the use of only a few seconds, there is no constancy. I looked through your profile. You have the engine 6G74 3.5L SOHC. You write and ask about 6G75. You want to do another engine? Not see who and what he had done for the ocean. Build your engine, from which all admiration at. If you don't start your project, then I propose to use engineering approach, and to calculate what you want. This will lead to the desired result, and save your wallet.

So, there are a few points which will lead to the desired result.
1) the Source engine. What you have now. (Power settings, volume, torque, engine rpm, etc.)
2) What do you want to get. ( desired parameters)
3) Mathematical calculation (formula consumption of air, power, CR, etc.)
4) the calculation of the Physical (real specified)
5) a Technical report. (decision of one or another construction)
6) the Choice of components. (purchase of necessary equipment and materials)
7) The Assembly.(Actually the assembly of all components)
8) set-up and adjustment.

If you are interested, we can do it together, I'll show you as correctly make calculations and to choose the components. If you have already started your project, you can transfer it to your topic.

He already has a 6g75 mate.