Hi guys

My 380 will be 5 years old this year.

Mitsubishi recommends the timing belt be changed at 100,000kms or 5 years - which ever comes sooner.

When my car hits 5 years old it will have travelled about 55,000kms.

It is really that important to change the belt based on time rather than distance? Interested in thoughts please. The car will be out of warranty so that isn't a reason to change the belt.

I was in the same boat last year with my magna as it's low in the mileage dept, the dealer said dont worry about doing it as he rarely if never sees them fail

If it was my car, I'd get the belt replaced at 5 years irrespective of the kilometres travelled. If the belt were to break, the resultant engine damage would be serious.

I had my timing belt done at 110k kms and that was only last year (2002 magna).

It will probably be fine, but it's a risk you need to be willing to take.

I was in the same boat last year with my magna as it's low in the mileage dept, the dealer said dont worry about doing it as he rarely if never sees them fail

Some people on here have run belts well past the time and distance spec without problems.


If it was my car, I'd get the belt replaced at 5 years irrespective of the kilometres travelled. If the belt were to break, the resultant engine damage would be serious.

Lots of damage to valves and pistons can occur. It's worth changing at the right time for your own peace of mind.

There are some good threads on this topic. Do a search.

The materials used in the belt compound wear down over time due to exposure to the elements and heat from the engine bay.

I'd highly reccommend changing the belt for your peace of mind and to prevent an expensive visit back to the mechanic later on.

Mitsubishi recommends the timing belt be changed at 100,000kms or 5 years - which ever comes sooner.



There's your answer right there. "sooner", not "later". Why risk a nice car for the cost of a belt change? Get the service book stamped to show it has been done, ups the value of your car if you decide to sell it.

My 02 vr-x is still 66thou and it will be 2013 when it reachest 100k, maybe i should do the timing belt haha

My 02 vr-x is still 66thou and it will be 2013 when it reachest 100k, maybe i should do the timing belt haha

Yes, maybe you should . . . . . it might not reach 100k otherwise.

Yes, maybe you should . . . . . it might not reach 100k otherwise.

Im guessing the big service i need will cost me something like $800?

I have no idea. I do my own.

I would leave it till 100k.

It's crap, unless you've had coolant leaks etc I wouldn't do it at 55k..

my 380 was made dec 06 and done 81000kms and is due for service at 90,000kms with Jarvis Ford (who i will be working for as spare parts soon). I'm thinking of getting them to do the major service then so I know its over and done with and got that peace of mind. I love my car and want it to last for as long as I can.

Im guessing the big service i need will cost me something like $800?

I had this done on my TL 2 years ago and it was about $900 at a dealsership. Almost exactly half the cost was labour.

You can get the timing belt only done for around $600-ish. But the same service interval also recommends plugs, etc - which are about $300 at a dealer (or $120 + half an hour if you do it yourself for a full set of platinums off the shelf). Timing belt isnt a very easy job to tackle yourself though, pretty much not recommended at all.

Basically if it lets go as others have said, your valves will hit the pistons and will at the very lease damage the valves (usually bent) and most likely also scar up the pistons = bad. And quite expensive to fix.



Honest truth? It may last, but just as much as it may/should last - people have had timing belts occasionally just fail for no good reason. and not even when thrashing the car.


at the very least if you decide to cheap out, check the condition visually. It's no guarantee but if you look at it and its cracking (or worst case, missing teeth) and stuff you'd know for sure you want to replace it, but as a general rule you cant tell that much by looking (or so i have been told on a few occasions)

I've done a timing belt job on my TS V6 and TJ V6. My wife has a '04 Lancer that is overdue for its belt change, and she won't let me touch it because it hasn't done the Km. Whenever I drive it I'm worried that the belt will go at startup, so I drive it as little as possible. Big difference in peace of mind, I prefer to drive the TS for that reason. Like I said before, it's worth doing just for the peace of mind.

My 02 vr-x is still 66thou and it will be 2013 when it reachest 100k, maybe i should do the timing belt haha

belt will most likely snap. id be changeing it now its allready to old

I was in the same boat last year with my magna as it's low in the mileage dept, the dealer said dont worry about doing it as he rarely if never sees them fail

But if they do you are screwed as you will punch you valves through the top of your pistons!!! Spend the money and do it. The belts can and do perish over time and whilst it is probable that it wont in your case is really worth the risk for the money?

I would go by the Mitsubishi service recommendation. It's there for a good reason.

Try pricing out Ultrahoon. They usually undercut the dealers by a fair amount and they have nationwide backing and warranty = peace of mind if you travel.

Since when do timing belts go faulty after 5 years and only 50,000k's?

Come on guys.....it sounds like free $$$$ donations to the dealers.

Since when do timing belts go faulty after 5 years and only 50,000k's?

Come on guys.....it sounds like free $$$$ donations to the dealers.

So what would you consider to be a safe extension to the service km or time?

So what would you consider to be a safe extension to the service km or time?


I would go by the kilometres.

I would go by the kilometres.

My wife's Lancer has done 25,000 km in 7 years. Should I really let it go for 28 years? lol Nah, gonna change it soonish, as its 7 years old already. Mind you, the belt I changed on my TJ was 9 years old and had done 111,000 km, and still looked ok.
Can I suggest that the km should be stuck to, but perhaps not take the belt beyond 7 or 8 years of age?


[I'm sure Madmagna will chime in here and tell me I'm wrong - again.]

My wife's Lancer has done 25,000 km in 7 years. Should I really let it go for 28 years? lol Nah, gonna change it soonish, as its 7 years old already. Mind you, the belt I changed on my TJ was 9 years old and had done 111,000 km, and still looked ok.
Can I suggest that the km should be stuck to, but perhaps not take the belt beyond 7 or 8 years of age?

[I'm sure Madmagna will chime in here and tell me I'm wrong - again.]

It all comes down to whether the car has been in a flood in queensland, whether the cooling system has been maintained etc etc.

The OP said his car was just out of warranty...I assume it's been perfectly maintained.

On that basis i wouldn't touch the belt.

I just got a quote from Kloster's Mitsubishi $1300 WOW :noway:

Just for the belt, I do them for $375 plus parts on the 380, parts are $142.50 for the kit with seals and pulleys :)

I am sure you are also only being charged for a sole belt with nothing else either

The recommendation of 5 years or 100,000km is for safety. Of course you should be able to travel 120,000 or go 7 years without replacing it, just that you run an increased chance of something going wrong. If the belt fails at 5.5/6 years or 110,000 (for example), then it was probably already 'crook' at 5 years/100,000km, which would be worrying.

My TL had its cam belt changed at 136,000 km and 8 years. Teeth were perfect, but some of the backing rubber from the smooth side was starting to transfer to the front tensioner pulley.
Caught it in time, but you would not want to go much beyond those numbers, IMHO.
The belt I changed on my TJ was older at 9 years but had done less km, 111,000, and still looked ok.
The Lancer belt was changed at 28,000 km and 8 years, looked perfect, writing on back still clearly legible.

Those observations tell me the Km recommendation is much more important than the time one.

As above: "The recommendation of 5 years or 100,000km is for safety." And in addition, to protect Mitsu from expensive engine rebuild claims if they quoted bigger numbers. It's an extremely conservative recommendation.

Then again, if you own a nice car like a 380, is it worth the extra worry every time you start the engine if you have ignored the belt change recommendations?

did the belt on my grand fathers TS it was 23k's and 14 years old and looked like brand new.... depends alot on if its been exposed to oils, they will break down the rubber....

personally i wouldnt be in a hurry to replace it in ur case but have it on the agenda within the next say 12mnths or when u can afford it..

visually inspect it for piece of mind, check inside the timing cover for rubber dust that will tell u if its been rubbing.

i am currently driving a legnum with 60k's and is 12yrs old with for all i know the original belt.... Yes i am freaking out ATM !!!!!



edit hahahaha just realised its an old post..... lols

Having worked on light aircraft for several years, I am normally a stickler for over-servicing my cars - preferring peace of mind over saving some cash.

But I really have trouble believing a 5 year old timing belt that has done 50,000km needs to be replaced.

My 5 year service is due in January, and I have done 59,000km - and to be honest, the only reason I would do it would be to protect my 10 year drivetrain warranty.

What people need to remember, is that the OE timing belt will be the best one you ever had.
- It was most likely manufactured very close to the date the engine was manufactured and didn't sit on a shelf for x number of years at a dealership
- It was definitely installed in much more sterile conditions on the assembly line compared to a workshop
- In theory, the original timing belt will always last longer than any subsequent belt.

If the rubber deteriorates THAT BADLY with time, would you be happy if a dealer replaced a 5 year old timing belt that has done 59,000km with one which is 4.5 years old (sitting on a dusty shelf at the dealership) which was stockpiled when the Tonsley factory shut down?

I'm thinking of leaving it until the 90,000km service and doing everything at the same time - timing belt, idler pulleys, water pump, plugs - do it once, and do it properly.

Can anyone find, ANYWHERE on AMC, a post where someone had a 6g75 timing belt let go?
Given there are in the order of 26,000 x 380s driving around the country - (some of which are approaching 10 years old and would never have had the belt done) - if there hasn't been a failure, I'd say that's a pretty good indication that the 5 year recommendation is ridiculously conservative.

I'm still trying to work out what I'll do.

My 5 year service is due in January, and I have done 59,000km - and to be honest, the only reason I would do it would be to protect my 10 year drivetrain warranty.

I'm thinking of leaving it until the 90,000km service and doing everything at the same time - timing belt, idler pulleys, water pump, plugs - do it once, and do it properly.

I'm still trying to work out what I'll do.

Keeping your drivetrain warranty alive is an excellent reason to stick to the recommended interval.

If you do an average of 12,000 km per year (60,000 divided by 5) then the 90,000 km point will see the belt 8 years old.

From my experience with cam belts, I'd risk it, but there's that warranty . . . . your choice in the end. I'd make the effort to keep the warranty alive.

(You have to realise few people will announce a cam belt disaster on a public forum out of fear of being ridiculed. I'm sure a few have happened that are being kept secret. lol Then again if you Google "broken cam belt" you get plenty of hits.)

Just to put it into perspective, I had mine (3rd gen) changed at 85,000 at the 8 year mark. I will prob change it again I estimate at about the 130K mark.

Then again, if you own a nice car like a 380, is it worth the extra worry every time you start the engine if you have ignored the belt change recommendations?
Well that's it. My 380 had only done 80,000km when I had the major service done, but it was seven years old. Was definitely worth it for the peace of mind. Plus the major service wasn't that expensive in the scheme of things.

Having worked on light aircraft for several years, I am normally a stickler for over-servicing my cars - preferring peace of mind over saving some cash.

But I really have trouble believing a 5 year old timing belt that has done 50,000km needs to be replaced.

My 5 year service is due in January, and I have done 59,000km - and to be honest, the only reason I would do it would be to protect my 10 year drivetrain warranty.

What people need to remember, is that the OE timing belt will be the best one you ever had.
- It was most likely manufactured very close to the date the engine was manufactured and didn't sit on a shelf for x number of years at a dealership
- It was definitely installed in much more sterile conditions on the assembly line compared to a workshop
- In theory, the original timing belt will always last longer than any subsequent belt.

If the rubber deteriorates THAT BADLY with time, would you be happy if a dealer replaced a 5 year old timing belt that has done 59,000km with one which is 4.5 years old (sitting on a dusty shelf at the dealership) which was stockpiled when the Tonsley factory shut down?

I'm thinking of leaving it until the 90,000km service and doing everything at the same time - timing belt, idler pulleys, water pump, plugs - do it once, and do it properly.

Can anyone find, ANYWHERE on AMC, a post where someone had a 6g75 timing belt let go?
Given there are in the order of 26,000 x 380s driving around the country - (some of which are approaching 10 years old and would never have had the belt done) - if there hasn't been a failure, I'd say that's a pretty good indication that the 5 year recommendation is ridiculously conservative.

I'm still trying to work out what I'll do.

Change the belt. Change the belt. Change the belt.

That service interval for the belt isnt for shits and giggles.

A belt that has been sitting on a shelf for a few years is OK. A belt that has been subjected to hundreds if not thousands of starts, high constant centrifugal stress - not to mention the extreme heat subjected by an engine onto the belt plus any oil/grease means that the TIMESCALE of a belts life is just as important as the number of K's it has done.

Again, change the belt.

Having worked on light aircraft for several years, I am normally a stickler for over-servicing my cars - preferring peace of mind over saving some cash.

But I really have trouble believing a 5 year old timing belt that has done 50,000km needs to be replaced.

My 5 year service is due in January, and I have done 59,000km - and to be honest, the only reason I would do it would be to protect my 10 year drivetrain warranty.

What people need to remember, is that the OE timing belt will be the best one you ever had.
- It was most likely manufactured very close to the date the engine was manufactured and didn't sit on a shelf for x number of years at a dealership
- It was definitely installed in much more sterile conditions on the assembly line compared to a workshop
- In theory, the original timing belt will always last longer than any subsequent belt.

If the rubber deteriorates THAT BADLY with time, would you be happy if a dealer replaced a 5 year old timing belt that has done 59,000km with one which is 4.5 years old (sitting on a dusty shelf at the dealership) which was stockpiled when the Tonsley factory shut down?

I'm thinking of leaving it until the 90,000km service and doing everything at the same time - timing belt, idler pulleys, water pump, plugs - do it once, and do it properly.

Can anyone find, ANYWHERE on AMC, a post where someone had a 6g75 timing belt let go?
Given there are in the order of 26,000 x 380s driving around the country - (some of which are approaching 10 years old and would never have had the belt done) - if there hasn't been a failure, I'd say that's a pretty good indication that the 5 year recommendation is ridiculously conservative.

I'm still trying to work out what I'll do.

Sorry mate you are so far off the mark I really don't know where to start

For starters there is more chance of getting a blow job from a supermodel thana timing belt sitting on the shelf for 5 years

Secondly sterile conditions ? It's a timing belt on the outside of an engine covered by ill fitting plastic covers

Third, is not the rubber only you have to worry about. Is the internal bits of the belt you can't see. Yes many do 10+ years. Some don't. Feel free to take the risk

Fourth, Oem belt is dayco, made in Japan, several are made in the same factory and then branded. Belts I use are sun, I know for a clear fact the magna ones I am fitting right now were made in about June. Additionally a boxed belt on a shelf does not get the crap riped out of it daily, is not exposed to fumes and hell knows what else and would be lucky to see 40 deg c

Guys, if you don't want to risk it change it, if you don't mind a gamble then go for it

As for your request, I sold 2 replacement engines and 1 pair of heads this year for this exact reason

As for your request, I sold 2 replacement engines and 1 pair of heads this year for this exact reason
Out of curiosity Mal, what age/kms were these cars?

1 has about 68k on it and was one of the first 2005 models. Other was an early 2006 model not sure on k's. third not sure on either but mechanic doing the job stated was surprised due to the fact the belt "was not yet due" and he stated was low mileage

Having said that I have seen 1 tj go over 200k on its original belt too.....

Sorry mate you are so far off the mark I really don't know where to start

Well how about starting by not being so offensive.


For starters there is more chance of getting a blow job from a supermodel thana timing belt sitting on the shelf for 5 years

Wow... such a nice way with words.

It might be that way for the way you stock belts and maintain inventory, but might not be for others. For example, the dealer I used to use (which was exclusively Mitsubishi) had a huge service department which was always busy. But now they've closed, I get my genuine services done at a Mitsi dealer which mainly sells Mazdas, amongst other manufacturers as well - and they seem to have very few Mistubishis through the door, even though they are a Mistubishi dealer and service department.
I think it would be quite possible for them to buy/ship parts in bulk - like 500 or 1000 timing belts, yet only change less than 5 per week on 380s. That could easily see 5 years shelf time. I guess I could ask them next time I go in.


Secondly sterile conditions ? It's a timing belt on the outside of an engine covered by ill fitting plastic covers

My plastic covers aren't ill fitting, and it's absolutely immaculate under mine. Not a greasy finger print or drop of oil or coolant to be seen anywhere. Once the belt is changed, that's much less likely to be the case. We'll have to agree to disagree on this.


Fourth, Oem belt is dayco, made in Japan, several are made in the same factory and then branded. Belts I use are sun, I know for a clear fact the magna ones I am fitting right now were made in about June. Additionally a boxed belt on a shelf does not get the crap riped out of it daily, is not exposed to fumes and hell knows what else and would be lucky to see 40 deg c

Yes, I do understand the conditions to which a timing belt is exposed. I completely agree the temperature cycles are probably the most damaging thing for the belt's longevity. But that's why the kilometre rating is there. If it was only about heat, surely a belt that has done 100,000km would have seen twice the heat exposure as the one which has done 50,000km (of course depending on trip length, etc.)


As for your request, I sold 2 replacement engines and 1 pair of heads this year for this exact reason

Okay, great. This was the sort of info I was after. Thanks.

And lastly, does anyone know if the Magna service book also has the 5 year timing belt change too, or is it only the 380? My father in law has borrowed my TL for a month, so I can't check to see what the Magna recommendation is. If so, probably need to look at that getting that one done again soon.

Third gen Magnas that run the V6 engines have the same belt recommendation, ie. 100,000 km or 5 years, whichever happens first. (Can't vouch for the 2.4L engine)

If you are concerned about belt shelf age, Goodyear Gatorback belts have a sticker on the box with the manufacturing date on them.

If you are concerned about belt shelf age, Goodyear Gatorback belts have a sticker on the box with the manufacturing date on them.

Great, thanks Max!

Might ask the dealer if the genuine ones have the same thing next time I go in.

K-mart put a new gates belt on my TW for about $350. It was 6 yrs old, had done 72k. From a distance it looked perfect, but then the guy showed me the lots of little cracks between the teeth. I have no way of knowing how serious these are, but I'm glad i changed it.

Offensive, try not being so precious perhaps. You are on a car forum, take a little direct response or join a doll making forum if you cant handle someone being direct

Your covers must be a very special set then as the covers DO NOT fit perfectly. Unless you have had one of these engines out then you will not see the little gaps around the engine mount, around where they all join up. My point is that as soon as that car is driven dust will get in there, as will oil fumes etc. Yes they will look clean but are not.

"genuine" belts are Dayco, there is no such thing as a "genuine Mitsubishi" belt sorry, no matter what you get it will be aftermarket and from a dealer you will bay 3 times more for a belt than you will pay elsewhere for a complete kit.

Magna Service book has the same recommendation for the timing belt, 5 years or 100k

The Magna, some Pajero, some Triton, the 380 and a few other cars out there all use the same belt, the belt is not specific just to the 380 so there is a high turn over. Add to this if a belt sat sealed on a shelf for a few years it certainly would not bother me in the least. Is a little like a car tyre, on a car I would use a max of 3 or 4 years. A spare which has been in a dark boot all its life I would use a few more years

Yes, no way those covers make a perfect dust proof seal.

Australian assembled Mitsus use Dayco, Japanese assembled cars use a Japanese brand, Unitta (got to check the spelling on that yet)

Goodyear, Dayco, Gates, Sun - all good brands.

"Just for a laugh" type info: Put a Goodyear Gatorback belt on a Lancer. After finishing the job, threw out the old belt and box. Then I noticed the manufacturing date . . . . 2002!!! I just put a 10 year old belt on the car! Am I worried? Not really, checked up on the shelf life of belts and was told 15 years. I will definitely change it after 5 years though, despite low km done.

Finally got the TL cam belt done yesterday, had 75k and was '03 build - so 11 years old.

Didn't take it to my local Mitsubishi dealer, they've botched enough work on my cars now to not go back.

Mechanic said he would have happily waited for the 100k and not worried about the 5 year rule, but was happy to change it if I wanted it done.

Showed it to me afterwards... Absolutely mint condition. No heat deterioration, no hairline cracks, rubber dark black and fresh (not dried out). He said it looked and felt just like a brand new belt.

I guess for me (after seeing it with my own eyes), the km rating is the one that counts. I definitely won't be doing them every 5 years, that's for sure!

Was $1000 for cam belt inc. new hydraulic tensioner, new coolant, bleed brakes, clutch fluid, new boot for the slave cylinder, oil change, lubrication of the clutch pedal, and new accessory belts. I told him if he had just 1% of doubt about the water pump, to just replace it. He said it looked absolutely brand new.

Very happy with the work, bye bye dealer, back to trusty local mechanic.

If he knew about timing belts he would have explained to you that timing belts which have broken usually dont have hairline cracks. The belt gets strength internally with the kevlar fibres or belts. These let go and boom. I have seen several ket go prior to 100k but seen others do in excess of 200.

My view on this is to change it based on the km's and the time.
Thats because my TL and KH have interference engines and a broken belt will probably result in bent valves, damaged pistons and possibly a damaged head. Also theres a risk of an accident when it goes.

I think these belts would, on average, typically last a lot longer than 100,000 k's and 5 years operation but the average is at the top of the bell curve. Many belts will do better than average and many will do worse, thats how averages work.

The belt manufacturer already figured out the average and added enough of a buffer to the maintenance cycle to allow for the majority of the predicted early belt failures.

Any other timeframe you come up with is just a gamble as Mal already said. You have to consider what you're saving against what you're risking by delaying the belt change. I don't see any good arguments for the delay because the risks are too great.

Finally, if u want evidence of components failing early, thats all around us. Every time a component fails before it was "due" is proof that some component failures will be on the wrong side of the bell curve average. Workshops doing lots of work fixing things on well maintained cars. Doesn't make any difference if its a space shuttle or a car, you cant defeat physics.

The 5 years, 100,000 km is supposed to be a very 'safe' margin. If the belt fails before 5 years/100,000 km, or even just a bit after, then there's something wrong. Ideally, the belt should come off looking 'perfectly fine'. If it has cracks all over it... that's a bad sign!

Will the engine run any different with a new timing belt?
ie, smoother or more powerful?
Or is this one of those services that would go unnoticed?

Will the engine run any different with a new timing belt?
ie, smoother or more powerful?
Or is this one of those services that would go unnoticed?

It will go noticed if it breaks.

Otherwise you wont notice a thing.

Will the engine run any different with a new timing belt?
ie, smoother or more powerful?
Or is this one of those services that would go unnoticed?
I haven't noticed a difference before and after the major service on both my TJ and 380. The only extra-ordinary service item that has made a difference to me was changing the auto fluid.

There wont be any improvement unless something else was wrong to start with. Depends what you had done with the belt, so maybe replacing the plugs could make a difference if they were in bad shape. But the belt is either working, or its not.
If its not tight enough then i think the only impact is possibly noise from the tensioner. Too tight, maybe a noisy water pump when its bearing wears out, haha, But i'm not sure of that.

Btw, i assume they don't use a timing chain because of the noise. I remember my Sigma could get noisy when the tensioners wore down. But i dont see why they couldn't design a metal band for the belt, with no rubber. I guess the issue would be slippage, but if they put teeth on it? What about cogs/gears? I assume the belt reduces weight?

Well, I thought it was time to replace our 2007 380GT's timing belt (wife's runabout) now it is nearly 9 years old. Only 94000km but age obviously the issue here. Cheapest quote locally $760 with the full kit. $1250 the highest! Just forgot about the poor thing given I left it to the missus to look after (not into cars).

Just did all 6 plugs (platinums), brake fluid, oil/filter, air filter for $120 so can't complain overall with some labour savings and opportunistic on-line parts buying over the last few years. Also 4 new tyres (Yokohama BluEarth) buy 3, get one free. Not high end but not Chinese cheapies either.

I hardly drive the car but it still feels like new on the road. Was thinking of trading it in but I'm going to keep it for a lot longer, especially after $1650.

Yep. That's what happens, people either sell their 380 or Magna when the cam belt is due, or put it off because they plan to sell it anyway. You can bet any Magna or 380 advertised at 100,000 to 150,000 km will still be on the original belt.
On the other hand, people who get it done tend to hang onto the car for longer.

We will hang onto it for a lot longer now. Just drives too well to get rid of. It's really only cost us about $450 a year to own including tyres, repairs and all servicing (of course this excludes rego, insurance, fuel). This has included 3 window regulators, a fan speed controller and indicator stalk).

Saved a lot doing my own servicing even though I forgot about the poor old timing belt.........I could probably do it with some study, time and effort but time is the issue.

At least 6G engines don't treat their timing belts like Astras......

My verada sat in the garage for 13 years (the why is another story!).
Timing belt was original so about 18 years old and stamped Unitta (now Gates I believe!).
In getting the car ship shape again the very last thing I did was to change the timing belt (with a Bosh one).
Only then did I feel confident about starting the car for the first time (boy did that car make a lot of noise for the first 10 minutes).
The original looked perfect to the naked eye, no cracks, no fraying and still rubbery to tough (but I still don't think it was fit for duty for testing the car).

Timing belt wasn't to hard to change, but it did take a lot of time to remove/replace everything in the way.
Poor access, taking notes, double checking etc all adds up in this DIY job.
And then there is that damn crankshaft bolt that needed a DIY tool to torque up (fun to make but not if you are in a hurry).

All up its one job that is probably better dealt with by, and money better spend on, experienced mechanics.

Timing belt was original so about 18 years old and stamped Unitta (now Gates I believe!).

All up its one job that is probably better dealt with by, and money better spend on, experienced mechanics.

Gates-Unitta is a Japanese joint venture that makes belts for lots of different makes, most Jap made engines have them.
Easy to recognise from the blue writing, other makes are white.

Don't agree with your last statement, lots of fun doing the job and you get a sense of achievement afterwards.

@ MadMax

I was thinking more along the lines of it not always being practical for DIY:
> If car is needed as a daily run about.
> Need patience to record detail (make photographs - match odd length bolts to their original holes).
> Requires a variety of tools not always held by the DYI enthusiast (torque wrenches - spanner types).
> Access to qualified help if trouble arises. etc

I spend 2 days making a tool to hold the harmonic balancer and 5 min of using it to torque up the bolt.
May use that tool again 5 to 8 years from now (if I don't need a walking stick by then!).

Do totally agree that it is lots of fun, that you get a sense of achievement from DIY and of course you save at least $500.
It took me 4 days doing it for the first time (taking things easy!) - probably could do it in a day now.

Worked as an apprentice in a previous life and I'm quite happy to DIY a lot of things, but cam belt on a V6 is not one of them.

The labour costs saved might be around $400, which is pocket change when it comes to the time spent and the pain and anger of getting that nut off and taking out engine mount etc.

Each to their own!

I bought a power bar to loosen the crankshaft bolt ($130).
It was great in terms of working inside the limited access space.
This tool is supposed to provide 600 lb/ft torque when giving it a decent whack with a mallet hammer.
Try as I might it didn't loosen that damn bolt one bit.

Instead a momentary crank with the bolt locked (breaker bar on frame) had it loose on first try.
At least I have a fancy tool for the experience.

I bought a power bar to loosen the crankshaft bolt ($130).
It was great in terms of working inside the limited access space.
This tool is supposed to provide 600 lb/ft torque when giving it a decent whack with a mallet hammer.
Try as I might it didn't loosen that damn bolt one bit.

Instead a momentary crank with the bolt locked (breaker bar on frame) had it loose on first try.
At least I have a fancy tool for the experience.

A single decent whack won't do it, seeing the bolt has some thread locker compound on it from the factory.
You need to apply a lot of torque to the bolt for an extended period of time, to get it to start to move and keep it moving. Hence the starter motor trick works well.

I bought the proper "Y" shaped tool to hold the crank pulley stationary while I heave on the bolt, but haven't used it yet.
(I do occasionally look at it though, and go "Ooh, nice!" Yes, I'm completely mad - mad for tools anyway.)
And unlike the starter motor trick, the same tool can be used to do the bolt up again.

Well I've had the full 100000km service now (DIY/workshop combo) with 4 new Yokohama tyres, new brake pads/machined discs. $1500 all up so not too bad. Ready for another 100000km.

Drives like new......

Well I've had the full 100000km service now (DIY/workshop combo) with 4 new Yokohama tyres, new brake pads/machined discs. $1500 all up so not too bad. Ready for another 100000km.

Drives like new......

Spending money on the car you already have is always cheaper in the long run. None of this 'the 5 year warranty runs out next week so I better trade it in' on this forum! lol

@MadMax

Isn't that Y tool only meant for torqueing up the crankshaft bolt?
If you hold the pulley whilst trying to undo that bolt might there not be a risk of damage to the rubber isolation layer in the pulley?
Buy a flywheel locking gadget for your mad tool collection!

Just my way of thinking - but I have seen Youtube videos of people strapping the pulley in various ways to hold it whilst undoing the bolt.
Easier to stop that crankshaft from moving on manual cars.

Y tool has pins that fit in the pulley centre section.
No load on the rubber bit, unlike strapping on the outer edge.