View Full Version : bad vibrations
bluedef
10-02-2011, 07:38 AM
Just recently came back from 3k camping trip in the mighty magna (didn't miss a beat).
But over the last couple of weeks, a very bad vibration has developed in the car at 100-120kph , and when turning right it sounds like the front wheel bearings are worn.
Have had wheels rebalanced, new firestone tyres (japan) 12ks ago, and checked wheel bearings and no evidence wheel bearing play and not notchy when wheels are rotated.
Any ideas would be appreciated.:hmm:
magnaman89
10-02-2011, 08:26 AM
vibration could be a wheel wieght has come off. re blalance . all rotate tyres front to back. noise when turning right could be cv hope this helps
bluedef
10-02-2011, 02:15 PM
I had the wheels rebalanced, cvs don't click when making tight turns so have to try a few other things, thanks for your help.
bellto
10-02-2011, 02:41 PM
how many ks has it got? it likely that it is a worn inner joint, also known as a doj. you can buy cv shafts from ebay for around the 120 dollar mark
bluedef
12-02-2011, 06:10 PM
Has just over 200k, didn't think it would be that, but is worth a look. When I had the tyres changed I did notice a vibration (very minor) that wasn't evident before, so all help appreciated.
MadMax
12-02-2011, 08:20 PM
My TS V6 with 240,000 km on it has the same problem. Vibration at speed over 80 kph and noise when turning right. Braking from speed in a straight line can cause a bad shimmy.
So far I have replaced tie rods (worn ball joints under the bellows on the steering rack) and checked wheel bearings, which seem ok. New tie rods and a wheel alignment improved it a bit. I found that the tie rod ends were loose, and the hole they sit in appears to be elongated. If I torque them more than the manual specifies, it improves it a bit, but not for long. I have new tie rod ends to go on at some stage, and will put bearing loctite on the mating surfaces to stop them moving, if that's the problem. Worth a check on your car, check them for the correct torque.
If that doesn't work I guess I will pull the drive shafts and check them. Then ball joints will be next for replacement. Then a disc skim, then new wheel bearings, then . . . . . <<vision of a can of petrol and a match come to mind>>
bluedef
13-02-2011, 07:05 AM
I'll do that, thanks, the car passed rego in november with no dramas, so it should a pretty simple fix, as theres a few blokes at work with th and tj magnas, they all say that they have little or no problems with there's, and they have had their cars from new or near new, so it speaks volumes of their build quality.
If that doesn't work I guess I will pull the drive shafts and check them. Then ball joints will be next for replacement. Then a disc skim, then new wheel bearings, then . . . . . <<vision of a can of petrol and a match come to mind>>
I usually drive the front wheels onto ramps, chock and handbrake on rear wheels and then slide under the front and watch all suspension/steering components whilst an assistant (pref 38-22-36) moves the steering wheel firmly from left to right (engine off). This puts plenty of strain on most steering components and has helped me in the past locate loose rack mounts etc on my old Jag. Those elongated holes that the tierod ends slip in don't sound too good to me!
MadMax
13-02-2011, 08:26 AM
. . . . . loose rack mounts . . . . .
Hadn't thought about that, worth a check!
Elongated holes - might be just my imagination, I need to have a closer look. They did need retightening twice, which is not normal.
Madmagna
13-02-2011, 09:23 AM
SOunds like the inner drive shafts also known as doj joints. Thus why I avoid reco shafts (except in 5sp auto and awd as new not avail) as once these wear they are not easy to reco properly.
This will cause the exacy symptom you have, also as will a failing torque converter if is mainly in 4th gear
bellto
13-02-2011, 10:17 AM
Has just over 200k, didn't think it would be that, but is worth a look. When I had the tyres changed I did notice a vibration (very minor) that wasn't evident before, so all help appreciated.
dont waste hundreds of dollars changing everything else. 200k is when they generally start to go. if it is a vibration, that will more than likely be the problem. wheel alignment will rarley cause a problem like you have described. and its only 240 dollars to get them changed if you do it yourself.
up to you though
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