I decided to take a couple of hours tonight to try and find the slow leak from the Verada's engine. Took the engine cover off, along with the two timing belt covers, and it looks like there's a small amount of fresh oil behind the rear camshaft gear.

I'm thinking it's the rear camshaft seal, but since I couldn't get a close look (didn't have the right socket to remove the last bolt on the timing belt cover), it's purely a guess based on the fact that the camshaft seal is the closest seal. The rocker cover gasket is also in that vicinity but where the rocker cover meets the cylinder head looks to be dry. I'm not sure if there's anything else in that area it could possibly be leaking from.

The way I see it, I only have 3 options.


1. Remove Harmonic Balancer, back off timing belt tensioner, remove timing belt, remove camshaft gear, replace camshaft oil seal. Reverse process.

2. Cable tie belt to gear, remove camshaft gear with timing belt still attached, replace camshaft oil seal, reassemble. I'm not sure if this is a recommended or viable option but at first look, it seemed like it could be done.

3. Reseal it via chemical means. Not recommended, AT205 Reseal would probably do the job since it doesn't soften the seal over time or block up oil passages, but it still feels like a quick and dirty way out and it's one i'd like to avoid.


I'm hoping that option 2 would be viable since it's the quickest way that would properly replace the old seal. I don't know what negative results could come with trying this method though.

In addition, how much should one expect to pay at a mechanic to have the rear camshaft seal replaced? I could probably DIY the job with enough time and the right tools, but in the event it does need someone to look at it, I probably should have a ballpark figure to compare it against.

Cheers


PS. Discovered the Power Steering line was rubbing up against the AC compressor belt tensioner. A fair bit of foam is gone but the hose narrowly avoided being damaged. Probably just as well I spotted that before I took the car out. Fixed now.

Are you sure its not the rocker cover gasket? These are a VERY common cause...

Fairly sure. If I run my fingers along the seam of the rocker cover and cylinder head in that general area, my fingers are still clean afterwards. When I checked the portion of the rocker cover beneath the timing belt cover it also looked to be fairly clean. It was somewhere below that the oil appeared to be coming from.

I'm supposed to take this in for an inspection tomorrow as well... not sure if I should risk it or not now considering how slow the leak is, but i'm leaning towards the "don't" side of things unless something like Nulon Engine Stop Leak can seal it for a while.

you will be much better off just removing the timing belt all together and replacing the seal and belt and idler pulleys and water pump all in one go. unless it has all been done recently, its worth doing now to save on labour later down the track. how many k's has it done betw, and when has the timing belt been changed (if ever)

165,000kms. Belt last changed at 110,000.

For the most part, I simply don't have the cash to be doing a full belt, tensioners and pump overhaul. I only earn $500 a fortnight. :( Was planning on saving up for the big 200,000 service.

Which inspection are you going for? If its just the tier 2 check, all they want is the VIN and engine number, they won't look at anything else.

Usually you are only doing a number check they dont go over the complete car, not when I did the last one unless is listed as a repairable write off

As for the leak, can not take off belt once tied to pulley, tensioner is still under pressure and will first need to be locked off

If you are able to take off the belt, are you able to re tension same, if so why not just get the kit and do yourself

I hoped that would be the case. I spoke to one of the inspectors at the Motor Vehicle Inspection Station yesterday who seemed to suggest they would do a series of basic checks on the car regardless of the tier of the check. Pretty sure they would notice oil dripping from the engine.


I may be able to remove the timing belt and all by jacking the car up, removing the covers, pulling the harmonic balancer through the driver's side front wheel well, backing off the belt tensioner and done... i'm sure it won't be that easy, i've never done one before and i'm 99% sure i'll hit a few snags along the way. Doesn't mean it's impossible though.

In regards to option 2, I can see that if I could back the tensioner off and lift the belt/cam gear forward, theoretically it would move, but there's SFA chance of doing so without having the belt slip or the timing come out of whack when removing the bolt holding the gear to the camshaft. Pretty much defeats the purpose of doing it the quick way, the only thing i'd have to do is remove the harmonic balancer and i'd have the steps outlined in option 1 anyway. Damn.

Probably could have bought a decent third gen with the amount of time, cash and effort i'm putting into or will have to put in to this. lol

I didn't think camshaft seal was that big a deal to change? My front one is cactus so needs doing but mechanic seems to think it isn't a big job. Probably worse for back one because of removing plenum etc adding to labour costs...

I didn't think camshaft seal was that big a deal to change? My front one is cactus so needs doing but mechanic seems to think it isn't a big job. Probably worse for back one because of removing plenum etc adding to labour costs...

Well on the SOHC V6 2nd gen it's pretty easy as the tensioner once locked in doesnt move, so cam gear off, change seal, cam gear on with belt still attached, voila.
Unless they have a cool way of doing it, I would of thought the timing belt needs to be re-tensioned as the cam gear needs to come off, few hours labor in that

;1366325']Well on the SOHC V6 2nd gen it's pretty easy as the tensioner once locked in doesnt move, so cam gear off, change seal, cam gear on with belt still attached, voila.

I was hoping it would be that simple. If it was, I could probably do it in a couple of hours max.


Anyway, think this could have anything to do with it? :P

http://i55.tinypic.com/5vp3r5.jpg

That's the oil level in the sump, with the engine cold (so it's all in the oil pan), dipstick cleaned off and rechecked multiple times and each time I get the exact same level reading.

Holy crap that's overfilled.

;1366333']Holy crap that's overfilled.

:stoopid:

That's crazy, drop some of that oil out, stat!

holy shit. I would be dropping that before driving any great deal. A lot of damage can be done from too much oil!

I think I know why the cam seal's leaking then! lol

I'll see if I have a drain pan and socket that'll fit the sump bolt. Hopefully it should stop the leak (for now) if I drain it back to the normal level.

I would drain the whole lot and refill and new filter TBH. Too much oil can froth due to it getting places it shouldnt and will ruin it's engine-protecting properties.

The moving parts splashing in the oil make froth, and oil pumps don't pump froth very well I believe. I have a spare bottle of castrol something here and I think a filter I can drop off tomorrow if you need it, text me tonight if I havnt replied on here.

I couldn't get the sump bolt off. Looks like none of the tools I have are right for the job. No jack stands, no trolley jack (and face it, the standard jack is shite) and of all the sockets I have, I never seem to have the right one for the job. Can't remove the timing covers, can't remove the sump bolt.

I can reach under the car, with a bit of luck I can crack the sump bolt and drain it a bit without jacking it up. I just need a socket that will fit it. While we're at it, looking directly at the bolt on the back of the motor, is it clockwise or counter-clockwise? Seemed to be an oddity with an old second gen we had so it's best I check in this case.

Car hasn't been moved in ages and the oil doesn't look old, doesn't seem to be frothing. I can't see inside the sump, but if I drain it and get it moving, I was going to have it changed before making any long trips (with Penrite HPR10) anyway.

TiMi, if you do have some stuff there I could use, it may be worth borrowing it just in case. Wouldn't happen to access to a ratchet and a few sockets by any chance? I think it's a 24mm one for the sump bolt. Failing that i'll have to check Autobarn but I won't be able to do that until Sunday.

Yep ill try to bring some toys over tomorrow or the day after, im supposed to see a guy about a gearbox but I think it will be closer to saturday or sunday the way its going.

$200 will buy you a TTI 42pce 1/2" socket set with everything you need for heavy duty work. $60 more will get you a 39pc 1/4" drive set (both lifetime warrenty) and you will then be ABLE to get the job done. Not having the right tools in the end costs you more.

i found a good 24mm ring spanner works well for removing a tight sump bolt. tetorque using a socket.

Looked like it had about 5-6L of oil in it. Need to find a new sump plug seal as there is nothing but a bit of mangled plastic left of this one. Is it just a regular O-ring? Does anyone know the exact size? Have whats left of the old one and I'll get a few assorted ones from work tomorrow.

Looked like it had about 5-6L of oil in it. Need to find a new sump plug seal as there is nothing but a bit of mangled plastic left of this one. Is it just a regular O-ring? Does anyone know the exact size? Have whats left of the old one and I'll get a few assorted ones from work tomorrow.

Get an o-ring from mitsu dude if u can

If theyrre open when I get there. We have pretty much every size from 3-30mm diamater and 0.5-5mm thick at work, in big enough quantities that one can dissapear occasionally.