Hi All,

Just wondering if anyone knows a cheaper alternative to Dynamat for sound deadening doors. What have you used to deaden your door?

Im sick of the rattles that come from the door!

Anyone know where the common rattles come from?

window openers, the vent in the door
the locking mechanism

in other words everything rattles except the door handle.

does that simplify your answer

also try and source a deflex pad, you put that behind the mid bass driver, absorbs back wave = better mid bass.

window openers, the vent in the door
the locking mechanism

in other words everything rattles except the door handle.

does that simplify your answer

also try and source a deflex pad, you put that behind the mid bass driver, absorbs back wave = better mid bass.
Thanks man,

Ill see if i can source some..

The main reason I dont want to use Dynamat as it can cost like 120 - 200 a door.. and I no longer have that sort of money to play with :(

oh sorry there is also Serenity max and some Stinger

it depends on how much deadening,
why dont you just start on 1 layer, and stage by stage you add more layers until all rattles are gone


also my easy fix is to just turn the music up :)

anyone used the sound deadening paints?

Both Serenity Max and G-Spot paint-on deadener have been quite effective in mine... http://www.caraudioaustralia.com to order online. Fraction of the cost of Dynamat (although you get what you pay for with that).

We suggest nothing less than Serenity Max because the cheaper stuff like Brown Bread is extremely messy. :(

I cant find it on that web site, the sound deadening paint. That would be alot easyier to put on.

the paint.. all it really does is make the surface u apply it to heavier

think of the door as a piece of foil. if u shout into it it'll vibrate and move. where as if u did it to a piece of wood it woulnd't. That is because it is heavier. So really, all the paint does is add weight.

although i have heard good reports on it.

120-200 a door? are you serious? i am getting the whole car done (4 doors, boot and parcel shelf) w/labour for 300, plus $90 for stinger roadkill (previously purchased). decent price if u ask me...
Stinger roadkill, $90 a roll and covers two doors.

120-200 a door? are you serious? i am getting the whole car done (4 doors, boot and parcel shelf) w/labour for 300, plus $90 for stinger roadkill (previously purchased). decent price if u ask me...
Stinger roadkill, $90 a roll and covers two doors.Getting Dynamat, yes it can cost that much, depending on what you are planning on doing.

Both front doors in my car are sound deaden'd. IT'S WELL WORTH THE COST!!!! Almost all rattles are gone now, expect for the worst bass test CD's atm - but I've still got to tidy a few bits up.

I've got Dynamat, $179 pack for 2 doors, and the shop wanted $50 for install. That was pretty good price.

When the install was originally done, I'd had the same doors done, and it costed double that! Looks like I got ripped the first time :p. Oh yes - Pray your electric windows never die once you've sound deaden'd / sealed your doors up!

EDIT: I'll be doing my boot next. :D

120-200 a door? are you serious? i am getting the whole car done (4 doors, boot and parcel shelf) w/labour for 300, plus $90 for stinger roadkill (previously purchased). decent price if u ask me...
Stinger roadkill, $90 a roll and covers two doors.

$200 a door is nothing, some people get $2500 worh of deadening done to their cars. Hell, even mine has $1400 worth in it...

When the install was originally done, I'd had the same doors done

Were you just upgrading??
or does the deadening deteriorate over time??

EDIT: Now that i think of it, your obviously going to get some wear and tear (just like everything else). But how long does it normally take to blow some sh*t loose and start rattling again?

It should last for years I imagine.

But unforunately both my electric window regulartors busted, so the stuff had to be cut / pealed back in order to access the inside of the doors again. I then didn't get the original sound deadening fixed asap, so being loose in the door, it melted/sagged over time in the heat because it wasn't attached properly anymore.

I also usually wrap the door locking rods etc in electrical tape so that you don't get that *tink *tink *tink sound as they rattle against the door frame.