OK this may be right up Sparky's alley here but others may have experience. We are getting another camper trailer and this one has electric brakes and an Anderson Plug for charging the deep cycle battery. Problem is our 380 isn't wired for either. From what I can see it is not Rocket Surgery but I am just postulating how to get the cables from front to rear.
Any ideas are appreciated and also for those in the towing fraternity, what sort of controller are you running.
Cheers

General when I run wires from the the engine bay through the car fire wall I use the factory wiring grommets. Then it a simply job of running the cable all the way through the cabin, just follow the other wires back to the boot. Simple :)

General when I run wires from the the engine bay through the car fire wall I use the factory wiring grommets. Then it a simply job of running the cable all the way through the cabin, just follow the other wires back to the boot. Simple :)
The 380 is canbus so there would be a lot less wires going back. The andersen runs 50 amp cable probably 6mm. Could be fun.

General the wire goes under the scuff plates then around something, to get to the boot.

I suppose the audiophiles could help you out with the wiring part as the audio amps would be a similiar setup for running cable to the rear

just run 6mm twin from the battery through the car under the scuff plates into the boot and down through the trailer plug grommet, that will be your charge wire and then run 4mm twin from the battery to the dash under the drivers side where your brake controller will go and run another 4mm twin from there to the back, that way u can pick up brakes in the trailer plug to trigger the unit and the other wire can power the brakes. As a rule i use the red in the twin between controller and plug as brake signal and black for the brake power. Make sure you earth the brake unit to the battery and not to a piece of metal in the car, hence the twin from the battery. Use a circuit breaker, 15A should do, and a 50A breaker for your charge wire. Cable tie everything, when making connections to the battery, crimp and solder your lugs to avoid corrosion and that should be it.

I suppose the audiophiles could help you out with the wiring part as the audio amps would be a similiar setup for running cable to the rear

Good thought mecha I am sure that some of those amps would run 50 amp cable too. lol

just run 6mm twin from the battery through the car under the scuff plates into the boot and down through the trailer plug grommet, that will be your charge wire and then run 4mm twin from the battery to the dash under the drivers side where your brake controller will go and run another 4mm twin from there to the back, that way u can pick up brakes in the trailer plug to trigger the unit and the other wire can power the brakes. As a rule i use the red in the twin between controller and plug as brake signal and black for the brake power. Make sure you earth the brake unit to the battery and not to a piece of metal in the car, hence the twin from the battery. Use a circuit breaker, 15A should do, and a 50A breaker for your charge wire. Cable tie everything, when making connections to the battery, crimp and solder your lugs to avoid corrosion and that should be it.
Thanks for that. I was going to run a single blue wire back to the trailer plug and use the + off the brake. I don't have a crimper but I will be doing a good solder job on all plugs and then heat shrinking over the top to stop any rubbish getting in. Should do the job.

single axle trailers require a 20A breaker, double axle require a 30A breaker.

connecting the brake sense wire to the stop light switch shouldn't cause any dramas but if it does then connecting to the trailer plug wiring #6(red) should fix that. ive only ever had this problem in cursed European vehicles.

Where is the breaker in the circuit?

as close to the battery as possible on the positive line