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View Full Version : Shimmy, shimmy, shake, shake!



MadMax
09-03-2011, 07:52 PM
TS wagon, V6, 240,000 km.

I'm tracing a shimmy that comes up at low speed (50-60 kph) under brakes and also while cruising at 70 or higher. Left wheel only.

I'm looking for possibilities:

So far:
(1) Replaced left front wheel to alloy with new tyre (as well as the other 3)
(2) Pulled hub off, no play in the left wheel bearings.
(3) Checked left ball joint, has no play and correct starting/turning torque.
(4) Replaced both tie rods with new ones, replaced boots.
(5) Checked for play in tie rod ends, none found.
(6) Check rotors - left one needs a skim or replacing. Part of the outer face has a rusty patch, like the pad isn't rubbing on it when braking. (???) Could it be so warped that is causing the shimmy?
(7) checked left drive shaft while hub was off, both joints move freely without binding.

To do:
(1) Check lower suspension arm bushes.
(2) Replace tie rod ends (seeing I bought new ones anyway)
(3) Check steering rack mounting rubbers and bolts.
(4) Check tightness of intermediate shaft bearing carrier.
(5) Reassemble with new tie rod ends and cleaned up discs, and get a wheel alignment.

Have I missed anything? I'd welcome suggestions on what else to wreck . . . err, check . . . while its apart. lol

magna buff
11-03-2011, 06:02 PM
doesnt show in the manual to well

but the top of the strut has an upper mounting
I have an exploded view shows it with a bearing
if not a bearing there may be a bush
check spring sag
could the struts piston rod be bent

MadMax
11-03-2011, 07:23 PM
No, there is a bearing inside the top mount. Seems to be ok though. But I will check the things you mentioned.

I took the rotors in for a skim, as the left one had one section of the outer surface pitted while the rest was smooth. This could explain the shake under brakes They came up good, for $50!
Pulled the left drive shaft apart - well, off the car anyway - and all is good there.

BUT:
To quote myself: "(3) Checked left ball joint, has no play and correct starting/turning torque."
Wrong!
Manual says 10 to 20 Nm starting torque (you put a nut on the ball joint while off the knuckle) and this one turns far too easily. Put a beam type torque wrench on it, its less than 5 Nm to start it turning.

I guess I will need to get the ball joints replaced on both sides, and with the cleaned up disc rotors all will be better, hopefully. Now all I need is a press . . . workshop job this one.
Seeing those 2 ball joints carry the weight of the V6 engine, I guess its no surprise though.