Guys i think the alternator is starting to wear out. Once i'm driving, occationally the light turn on only once i'm coming to a complete stop- i then rev the car and then the light goes out.

I think that it is a regular that has given way- i have a part number from bosch and i want to change but i'm sure what the actual part looks like. Is the part that sits jst on the outside? Do i actually need to pull the alternator out of the car??

Or would it seem wiser to get an second hand one and fit that?

Guys i think the alternator is starting to wear out. Once i'm driving, occationally the light turn on only once i'm coming to a complete stop- i then rev the car and then the light goes out.

I think that it is a regular that has given way- i have a part number from bosch and i want to change but i'm sure what the actual part looks like. Is the part that sits jst on the outside? Do i actually need to pull the alternator out of the car??

Or would it seem wiser to get an second hand one and fit that?

Remove your one and either get a second hand one (no guarantees on the second hand unit) or send it away to be reconditioned with a basic warranty on it. The cost to recondition should be much less than the price of the new one.

Have you confirmed the alternator isn't charging the battery with a multimeter?

New = about $350.
Recon = $150. Has warranty, keep the docket. lol
S/H = $50, but it will be crap. Either won't work at all, or die quickly, unless you pull it off a low Km car yourself.
Regulator + brush set off eBay = cheap. But might not fix the problem.

Take your pick. lol
DISCLAIMER: All of the prices above are approximate. Your mileage may vary.

Dont know why a secondhand one is crap, some people actually mark parts so we know what car they came from in the first place, not only to id them but also for out book keeping as well.

Reg on its own is a temp fix, you need to overhaul the complete unit or replace it

In my experience second hand ones are a hit or miss effort, not many wreckers bother to label them in any way. If you have some low km ones, that would be a good way to go.

My experience FWIW is that I'd first disconnect the negative lead from the battery then remove and inspect the brush/regulator assembly - 2 screws to undo and easily accessible and no need to remove the alternator - if brushes are very worn then replace the assembly - cost is then only about $65 or if you are a real cheapscate you can solder new brushes in which takes the cost down to about $7. Any autoelec should be able to do this for you in 5 minutes flat if you don't feel comfortable with it.
Otherwise you have to go to the hassle of removing the alternator, sourcing a replacement and then installing same. Makes undoing 2 screws seem a lot simpler IMO.

My experience FWIW is that I'd first disconnect the negative lead from the battery then remove and inspect the brush/regulator assembly - 2 screws to undo and easily accessible and no need to remove the alternator - if brushes are very worn then replace the assembly - cost is then only about $65 or if you are a real cheapscate you can solder new brushes in which takes the cost down to about $7. Any autoelec should be able to do this for you in 5 minutes flat if you don't feel comfortable with it.
Otherwise you have to go to the hassle of removing the alternator, sourcing a replacement and then installing same. Makes undoing 2 screws seem a lot simpler IMO.

Is it just a matter of 2 screws to remove and fit a regulator and brushes?

Yes, 2 screws, but then you put in your new reg, as as I and many many others have said here many many times, you end up with a halfassed rebuild. Is like getting a car with worn out brake pads and putting new pads on grooved and dirty rotors.

The armature needs to be machined and resurfaced when you replace the reg (which by the way has brushes in it), you may get 12 months out of this if you are lucky, hey, you may even get more but then again you may end up spending $65 bucks on a reg and then in 2 months getting a new reg or if a diode is fauty inside your alternator a new complete electrical system in your car when it gives a sharp AC voltage spike

If the light has been flickering the brushes have probably been bouncing around and the commutator that the brushes ride on will be carbon covered, burnt and grooved. If voltage spikes have taken out some of the diodes you will still have a non functional alternator if you replace the regulator. As suggested above, AC leakage from a malfunctioning alternator can do damage elsewhere. Pull the alternator out of the car and get it reconditioned.

Is it just a matter of 2 screws to remove and fit a regulator and brushes?

Correct....2 screws and remove...carefully of course. If the alternator was working OK before it started to flicker then the internals should be OK. The diodes will be OK unless the battery has been discharging overnight which is usually the first indication of a bad diode. Not all commutators (slip rings) are grooved and even if they are grooved, after a few miles the new brushes will bed into the shape of the slip rings the same way that new brake pads bed into whatever grooves are on the brake disc. The bearings will be OK unless they were noisy before this problem. You can do a GOOGLE on repairing an alternator and find heaps of info.....not reconditioning (which should include full disassembly)but repairing or restoring the unit to the condition it was immediately before it failed. In your case it probably was worn brushes....replace the brushes and it's as good as before it failed. It's your choice and I always like to look at all angles so you get a balanced outcome.

However, re-reading your post makes me start to think you do not have an alternator problem - why? - just a few days ago I disconnected my battery which makes the transmission re-learn it's change points plus the engine idle has to be learned again....this idle re-learing in my case resulted in the engine 'almost' stalling on a number of occassions, and every time the revs would drop below about 450 - 500rpm, the red battery light would come on only for a split second till the revs rose again to about 650rpm. This may be happening in your case as you say <occationally the light turn on only once i'm coming to a complete stop>....maybe your engine idle when you stop is dropping below the revs required to excite (or whatever) the electricals inside the alternator. If so, the fix may not involve the alternator.
Good Luck.

Before you do this check and make sure terminals are tight and no covered in corrosion. Solved this problem for me!

Correct....2 screws and remove...carefully of course. If the alternator was working OK before it started to flicker then the internals should be OK. The diodes will be OK unless the battery has been discharging overnight which is usually the first indication of a bad diode. Not all commutators (slip rings) are grooved and even if they are grooved, after a few miles the new brushes will bed into the shape of the slip rings the same way that new brake pads bed into whatever grooves are on the brake disc. The bearings will be OK unless they were noisy before this problem. You can do a GOOGLE on repairing an alternator and find heaps of info.....not reconditioning (which should include full disassembly)but repairing or restoring the unit to the condition it was immediately before it failed. In your case it probably was worn brushes....replace the brushes and it's as good as before it failed. It's your choice and I always like to look at all angles so you get a balanced outcome.

However, re-reading your post makes me start to think you do not have an alternator problem - why? - just a few days ago I disconnected my battery which makes the transmission re-learn it's change points plus the engine idle has to be learned again....this idle re-learing in my case resulted in the engine 'almost' stalling on a number of occassions, and every time the revs would drop below about 450 - 500rpm, the red battery light would come on only for a split second till the revs rose again to about 650rpm. This may be happening in your case as you say <occationally the light turn on only once i'm coming to a complete stop>....maybe your engine idle when you stop is dropping below the revs required to excite (or whatever) the electricals inside the alternator. If so, the fix may not involve the alternator.
Good Luck.

Ok to give a bit of an update, went and got the battery checked after all. Machine indicated that it was almost dead, so I got it replaced to see if it solved the problem. At the same time cleaned the terminals etc too. Problem not solved….. Next steps are to change the brushes/ replace the alternator with a second-hand one…..

Got me thinking though if it in in the alternator…. But there is no way the revs are dropping that low to 500rpm- maybe jst under 800 if that! Originally I noticed this all started after the car was sitting at home for 3 weeks when I was away and no one started it…. Any thoughts now?

Machine indicated that alternator was fine!

Machine indicated that alternator was fine!

So this means the light was either caused by low revs or bad battery/terminals and the alternator was OK ?

So this means the light was either caused by low revs or bad battery/terminals and the alternator was OK ?

To clarify- issues still is going on. Next step will be to change the brushes within the alternator or the whole alternator.

What i think is the problem is a connection between the alternator and brushes. When the battery light truns on (not frequrenty) revs are fine, car doesn't feel like it is choking or anything along those lines :S

To clarify- issues still is going on. Next step will be to change the brushes within the alternator or the whole alternator.

What i think is the problem is a connection between the alternator and brushes. When the battery light truns on (not frequrenty) revs are fine, car doesn't feel like it is choking or anything along those lines :S

That should be simple - disconnect battery, undo 2 screws holding regulator/brush assembly and gently remove - inspect and replace if worn. If you need to drive the car to buy a new reg/brush assy, simply refit the assembly and reconnect battery and drive to SuperCheap/Repco/auto elec.
I've also just been looking at the charging system wiring circuit and it shows an alternator relay situated in the relay box in the engine compartment....if this has burnt contacts then maybe it is causing your problem - has this been checked ?

id be checking your engine main earth

so body connection and engine block connection.

and when i mean check. i mean disconnect clean and reconnect

Ok just to sum up (i hate it when ppl don't do this!)
Issue was that the alternator brushes actually snapped off, one of them anyways. I pulled the alternator brushes off, and noticed only one. Rather than finding the brushes i bought an alternator second hand and just because i had the brushes, put them in there. Car runs fine and happy i done this because i actually went 5hrs past melbourne and last thing i wanted was drama on the road......

Battery was not required, bloody autobarhn stooged me ($170) but oh well at least i know i that everything is sweet now. In future a reco/ second alterntor would do the trick or just brushes (not recomended), for those doing a search and run into this :)

And also a thank you to MADMAGNA for supplying the alternator, nice guy to deal with!

Brushes can break but its unusual. I've only seen it once in the last 40 years. (Yes, I'm old) They get shorter as they wear (D'oh) and can tip over in the holder, then break off. Not fun taking an alternator off and shaking it upside down to - hopefully - get the broken bit out. lol

Either way, brushes were worn down. Ppl with this issue changed them around 80 bux or better get a whole alternator (reco)

Why do you say better to get a reco one and not recommend just replacing the brushes when they were the problem...it's $8 for brushes compared to over $200 minimum for a reco alt fitted ? Not stirring but would like to understand your reasoning.

cost as 85 for a second hand alternator
80 to by brushes
170 for a new battery

not a cheap fix but can confirm car is running well a week later. Battery was not required (wrong diagnosis)

As for changing the brushes only can be an issue as there may be damage to what they actually touch, highly unlikely. My thought only. Idea of this post is for ppl doing the search function so they solve there problem for 80-85 not 350 odd lol

cost as 85 for a second hand alternator
80 to by brushes
170 for a new battery

not a cheap fix but can confirm car is running well a week later. Battery was not required (wrong diagnosis)

As for changing the brushes only can be an issue as there may be damage to what they actually touch, highly unlikely. My thought only. Idea of this post is for ppl doing the search function so they solve there problem for 80-85 not 350 odd lol

Sounds good reasoning to me.