Hi all, today i purchased new front and rear rotors as well as new pads for the front .
after attempting to replace these items i come to a hault at the pads ,i got the rotors on no worries but couldn't get the piston to go back far enuff so i could swing the caliper back into position with new pads in place.
i loosened the bleed nipple and attempted to push back the piston and it moved a bit or did something as i notice the rate at which the fluid was escaping from the bleed nipple increased, i then tightened the nipple and attempted replacing the remaing pad faceing towards me from the outside of the car but still there was not enuff room to accomodate the extra thickness from the new pad for the caliper to swing back into position.
am i missing something or not doing it correctly? any tips or advice on the matter would be greatly appreciated.

Pistons need to be all the way in to make room for new pads. There is a tool you can get to press the pistons back in, but I just put the old pads in the caliper, then lever with a screwdriver between the caliper and the back of the outer pad. This pushes the pistons in. Pull old pads, transfer shims, and install. Once the wheels are back on the ground start the engine and press the brake pedal to bring the new pads to the right place. Keep an eye on the fluid level when you push the pistons back to check it doesn't overflow.

G clamps work as well. How old is the brake fluid? You might as well pump new fluid through which will also bleed any air out just in case. The straighter you can push the piston back the better , easier and less risk of damage.

Did you sort out your other electrical issue?

Pistons need to be all the way in to make room for new pads. There is a tool you can get to press the pistons back in, but I just put the old pads in the caliper, then lever with a screwdriver between the caliper and the back of the outer pad. This pushes the pistons in. Pull old pads, transfer shims, and install. Once the wheels are back on the ground start the engine and press the brake pedal to bring the new pads to the right place. Keep an eye on the fluid level when you push the pistons back to check it doesn't overflow.

What do the shims do? I don't remember seeing any last time I changed pads, but we have brass shim in lots of sizes at work if I need to make some?

Shims are thin metal plates across the back of each pad, should be 2 on each pad. I guess they are there for as an anti noise remedy or some such. lol But I'm going by my TS, I can't remember what is on the TJ. lol

Shims are thin metal plates across the back of each pad, should be 2 on each pad. I guess they are there for as an anti noise remedy or some such. lol But I'm going by my TS, I can't remember what is on the TJ. lol

Yeah they're anti vibration shims - supposed to reduce vibration from the pad onto the caliper but antisqueal paste will do the job too as well.

Might also pay to lube the caliper slides too while you're at it and don't forget to wipe the rotors down with brake clean to remove the machining oil.

you could even use a torque wrench to do all the bolts up to the specs in the manual.

Any special shape/thickness/material to make the brake shims out of? Or will a couple of scrap bits of thin brass be close enough?

Any special shape/thickness/material to make the brake shims out of? Or will a couple of scrap bits of thin brass be close enough?

lol seriously...if your car doesn't have them ,then don't worry about it.

Doesn't have them but it does squeal and squeak and it annoys me. If some free bits of brass foil will fix it just as good as some brake squeal goop next time I change them, I'll take the free option.

U-pull-it North has them, people pull the pads and just drop the shims on the ground. lol Maybe pull some pads off a 3rd gen and see how they are mounted?

or go to u-pull-it..........

Or use this.
http://www.mz3.net/articles/images/241-napa_crc.jpg

And use moly grease to re grease the caliper slides. Make sure you clean the old shit off first.

Pistons need to be all the way in to make room for new pads. There is a tool you can get to press the pistons back in, but I just put the old pads in the caliper, then lever with a screwdriver between the caliper and the back of the outer pad. This pushes the pistons in. Pull old pads, transfer shims, and install. Once the wheels are back on the ground start the engine and press the brake pedal to bring the new pads to the right place. Keep an eye on the fluid level when you push the pistons back to check it doesn't overflow.
thanks max ill give this a try in a minute.


G clamps work as well. How old is the brake fluid? You might as well pump new fluid through which will also bleed any air out just in case. The straighter you can push the piston back the better , easier and less risk of damage.

Did you sort out your other electrical issue?
if the screwdriver method doesn't work ill try the g clamps which i have lying in the shed, brake fluid is about 10,000kms old was done not long ago
unfortunatly the electrical issue is still a problem, i have been extreamly busy this week and haven't had any time to look further into it and i am yet to pm "TWW" for an outcome to his problem in relation to the link you posted in the other thread.


Yeah they're anti vibration shims - supposed to reduce vibration from the pad onto the caliper but antisqueal paste will do the job too as well.

Might also pay to lube the caliper slides too while you're at it and don't forget to wipe the rotors down with brake clean to remove the machining oil.

would never of thought of that, thanks for the heads up.

Pistons need to be all the way in to make room for new pads. There is a tool you can get to press the pistons back in, but I just put the old pads in the caliper, then lever with a screwdriver between the caliper and the back of the outer pad. This pushes the pistons in. Pull old pads, transfer shims, and install. Once the wheels are back on the ground start the engine and press the brake pedal to bring the new pads to the right place. Keep an eye on the fluid level when you push the pistons back to check it doesn't overflow.

As well as, pooping the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and the pistons push back easier, no need to touch the nipple!
Pistons should be pushed back slowly, and to avoid overflow, not that I've seen it yet, start up and reapply the brakes once you done one side.
But the difference betwwen the Pro and the Amatuer, giving the discs a quick skim if they are uneven.

pooping the cap on the brake fluid reservoir . . . .

No pooping on the cap please, it makes a mess. Have 2 pups here who are really good at it, I get to clean up every morning. Maybe just pop the cap off instead? lol

This comes up almost as often about what oil tonuse. Yawn

Simple. If you dont know dont do as when you screw it up your brakes could fail and you could end up killing someone.....not cool

If you dont have the correct tools dont touch it either

The piston should slide back with a large set of grips. Removing bleed nipples is the wrong way and to srop overflow from reservoir suck some out before yoj start the job

all finished now , i ended up using the g clamp to push the piston back, didn't realise i wasn't ment to undo the bleed nipple to do so, oh well..
was too easy once i worked the piston out, all in all some good experiance learnt and thanks for all the help fellas.

if you have not roaded it yet just be careful in case you introduced some air into those calipers.

if you have not roaded it yet just be careful in case you introduced some air into those calipers.

After replacing the pads i blead the lines to remove any air,also took the car out for a drive to the outherside of sydney about 150kms and hasn't missed a beat , the pads have pretty much bed in now and have noticed an improvement, not really a hard job considering it was the first time i had ever attempted it, was just stuck at the idea of pushing the piston back as i was rushed the first time round having to pick my partner up an hour or so after starting the job.
just glad i didnt have to pay a mechanic to do the job.

I bet you forgot these . . . . . .

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac19/rons105/brakeshims.jpg

There's also a pair of wear protectors on the tangs of the caliper.

What are wear protectors? I thought they were anti rattle clips, if that's what you're talking about.

I bet you forgot these . . . . . .

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac19/rons105/brakeshims.jpg


There's also a pair of wear protectors on the tangs of the caliper.

just the inside pads had the twin shims, the outer was just a single shim and yes i did swap them over.