I am sorry for bringing this up, you guys i am sure have talked this one to death already

I have had a bit of a search through your forums for info and will continue searching tommorrow evening. I am new to this forum but have been round farm machinery forums for years............

I am a New Zealander (PLEASE don't hold that against me! :D ) my car is a 93 2.6 TR wagon, it has 181000km on it i have put 12k km on it since i have owned it..........it rattled a little on startup since i got it, which is ok..........but i brought it as is off a dealers lot (wasn't preped).........anyway, the return hose on the radiator broke off the radiator, and it ran hot not long after i got it.........i am told as a result i have piston slap.......which is all cool.............but then it started rattling at a idle when warm, was told this was the timing chain adjuster etc, so this was replaced, the noise went away for a lil bit, but then it come back...........so now i think it has done it again, either that or they didn't fix it properly and screwed me out of some coin......so now i am wondering if i can do it myself in car before the chain eats its way thought the side of the engine. I would be happy if i can fix this problem and also fix the rattle on startup, I am told it has something to do with the head lubrication. I am a farmer by trade, now in the irrigation business.........I spend a lot of time in the workshop so i know i can get round this vehicle to fix it, just gotta find out the theory before i take to my only transport with a spanner!

can someone direct me to threads with this information or help me?

i believe the cam chain thing, prolonged abuse from the poor lubrication in the head and the piston slap, could be taking its toll on the engine........and it maybe cheaper to hit her with a recon motor, but that maybe worth more then the car any thoughts

also i can get alloys off a GTO, but the guy reckons they won't fit a magna......what do you think?

pudding

christchurch, new zealand

sounds like the timing chain, i replaced one not 2 days ago and they are kind of hard to do even when the engine is out of the car! its about 800 dollars for a mechanic to do it and about 240 for the tensioners and chains by themselfs. where you live?

if u were to change the timing chain, get an oil pump aswell. it is a must.

i always direct ppl here to read this. it is very important and it involves the TM,TN,TP,TR and TS magnas. well, any with a timing chain...

Timing Chain (http://www.australdistributing.com.au/pages/techtips/mitsubishi.html)

usually if ur oil pump is very worn there will b poor lubrication and so timing chain pieces wear away quicker. cars are often back in the shop after 3,000-16,000km with the brand new timing chain assembly fitted, but still rattling. but yeah, read the article above, will b very helpful with ur theory side of things.

if u were to change the timing chain, get an oil pump aswell. it is a must.

.


I agree, when i got my timing chain done, i got a new oil pump, actually the mechanic said he wouldn't do the job unless it was done properly. (it was under the used car warenty anyway si i only had to pay $400 anyway) So that was good luck, but the only problom i had after it was done was an oil leak which was fixed for free cause he didn't seal it properly.

So if your pulling it appart again, put in a new oil pump.

i now confirmed what i have been thinking after reading history on this page the last couple nights

it will get a oil pump

my grandfather keeps telling me the big end bearings could be getting worn, not holding pressure, but after reading the link and what you guys say, it confirms what i thought

when cold it sounds fine, but when warm, the oil i guess drops in viscosity, pushing round the seal in the cylinder of the tensioner.........so i will get in touch with Mitsubishi NZ and see what it will cost, i wanna try and do this over a weekend so i might have to settle for genuine parts........i will see what the TR pump will cost........and compare it to purchasing timing kit number AMBTK3, along with a new TM-TP oil pump, part number AM4G54 as well

they say use correct mounting bolts........does that mean the ones from my TR will not fit?.......so i will have to buy ones from the TM-TP catalogue

this engine will still rattle a little when i am done, at about 4000rpm it resonates, piston slap i am told, but i have had vehicles with piston slap before and they have lived for years..........i don't drive it hard so it is not often you notice the slap.......if i get this other problem sorted i might lift the engine and fix the slap also........

as it is i have to fix the oilpump and tensioner to be able to sell it later.........and seen as its a common problem and most magnas have done high Kms over here, i might as well try fix what i have

lol........they thought of a V6 up front is something that spins me wheels also


where am i from turbo_charade?.......christchurch NZ.......south island.......where are you at?

am growing a softspot for this ole bus,........regardless of these problems, i wanna put some alloys on her some time, just not to sure about there durability with all the gravel road and off road work this girl can get into.......might just settle for some stiffer springs and a cross brace (lol)

http://www.puddingsworld.com/Images/Pudding_Racing_S.jpg

http://www.puddingsworld.com/Images/jan_2004%20080_small.jpg

pretty plain jane.......and i used to say the cops didn't even look at it on the roads, but since i got caught doing 99km towing a trailer when legally can only do 80km (normal cars do 100 in the same zone.....i was just keeping up with traffic) and the speedcamera fine a few weeks later i am not convinced!........lol........the funny thing was the cop was in a mufty maxima..........lol.............and i slowed down and stopped when i saw the lights but it took for ever for me to get up on me..........the ole magna still has it huh!........either that or him and his partner ate to many donuts


pudding

i forgot to give u another piece of advice with prices. a genuine oil pump from mitsu is close to $500 im told wen a HIGH PERFORMANCE oil pump is $200 or abit less. my timing chain assembly cost me $220 (for a TM). TR ones will probs b different but shouldnt differ too much in price.

but yeah... paying around $450 is alot better than paying $750 for a job done.

nice pic... looks clean and dentless. something mine isn't at the moment :cry:

found out today the kit MBTK4 was fitted last time the engine was out ( i guess it is a AMBTK4 cause the AMBTK3 is the kit for the older model)

i don't know what this is but i think it is just the kit......not the pump......i will ask the local Mitsubishi people tommorrow ............they qouted 531NZD for the pump, all up a cool thousand dollars

there is also a mod kit they talk about retrofitted older bits into the existing pump.........if this is the case i am going to have to find another way of getting to work ;O(..........i will find out tommorrow

last time i spent a thousand for what.......nothing, thousand in parts and do it myself is a bugger but i have a good chance this will end the problems

i can't sell it as it is, i have to fix it, might as well do a good job..........keep it and get my money out of it

interestingly i paid 3500NZD for it, so now........with all the costs involved it is cost me about what i could have brought one off a dealers yard for...........

you guys have been a great help

pudding

ps. will ask about this performance pump.......sounds fishie

i did mine about 6 months ago, however i didnt even think about changing the oil pump, its one of those things ppl say will (should) last the lifetime of the car. I have an old one on an engine out the back, i may pull i t apart and recondition it (as per the gregories) myself if its in ok nick. Would u clean parts like that in metho or turps?

I dont know where you guys shop, but at bursons the kit with all chains, lash adjusters and the spring and adjuster thing that fits in the oil pump was only $150 AUD

Also i did it the (apparent) hard way, i did it with the engine still in, the only hard thing is getting 1 or 2 of the longer bolts out of the front engine cover, then we repalced them with slightly shorter ones (like 1 or 2 mm)

Did you guys notice, with the spring behind the adjuster thing on the oil pump, there was a lil stick of something black, like plastic or something? Cos on the second engine i have it had one, and the one in my engine, the black thing got bigger, or the spring got smaller and it was sticking and it stuck the spring shorter, so when the car was at rest the plunger wasnt pushing on the chain and i was getting rattle until oil pressure built and pushed the whole thing. Sucks coz there was little wear on the adjusters and the chains werent stretched, but i had it all out by then so i thought "why not?".

Now when i start the car i get like 3 seconds of the oil light being on, but it never comes back on while driving, and it only stays on 3 secs when its dead cold, if its only been off for a few mins the light doesnt stay on at all. It could be because there my be some metal particles in the oil pick up, im gonna pull it off and look later next week. There may be metal particles because when we were putting the crank pulley back on the gf's stepdad decided it was just tight and to hit it with a sledge hammer, well anyway i had to replace the pulley, it was stuffed bad (i could get picks if you like) and i could only get the metal particles i could reach with my hands (quite a bit tho) so i have no doubt theres some metal in the oil pickup.

Did you guys notice, with the spring behind the adjuster thing on the oil pump, there was a lil stick of something black, like plastic or something? Cos on the second engine i have it had one, and the one in my engine, the black thing got bigger, or the spring got smaller and it was sticking and it stuck the spring shorter, so when the car was at rest the plunger wasnt pushing on the chain and i was getting rattle until oil pressure built and pushed the whole thing. Sucks coz there was little wear on the adjusters and the chains werent stretched, but i had it all out by then so i thought "why not?".
yeah i left the black thing out so the spring was never slack. the kit didn't come with a replacement either

you can do it incar?..........err hmmm

waiting on some parts, going to lift her hopefully this weekend (if not nextweekend)

the kit from the last job i found out was the specific cam chain kit with all the dressings for the TR model............just bolted in

i am getting this kit with bits to retro fit the tensioner to the older style..........it involves drilling a bigger whole in the side of the pump

they have found over here fitting the older style with the existing pump is giving good success.........

I know you guys said new oil pump but i am going to get it appart and see if these local mitsi guys are on the right track and it can fix it.........i haven't seen any diagrams of the pump assembly etc but i am guessing it will remove the sloppy hole problem..........if not.....o well new pump then will definitly be the answer

i have a couple questions for ya

how do ya get the CVs out?...........remove the clip on the tranny side and remove the hub and pull?...........

also hows about the powersteering, what kinda oil?.........do i have to bleed it when reinstalling (or is it like a modern tractor ........just tunr the wheel a few times??)

still waiting for the manual

pudding

job is done........sounz a million times better

put the older style tensioner in it..........did away with the ratchet mechanisim, pump looked ok, it has no front or rear counterbalancer in it so timing was easy........actually the chain and tensioners were in ok nick (it got new ones any way)........accept for the oil pump chain which had been shortened, and being in good shape i choose to leave that in there and not put the new one in which needed to be shortened

they told me to drill the hole in the back of the tensioner bigger, but it already was.........so all i really changed was the tensioner............but it has taken out the wishy/washy noise found when the engine got warm............so it wasn't right

what a job............i choose not to do that again.........actually i might be a good time to trade up to a V3000..haha.............i always wanted one of those

it has fixed the problem............now sounz awesome............i am told by the dealer this is what they do to all the ones that they get to fix, and non have come back.........so fingers crossed........will let ya know if i messed up not putting a new pump in her.........actually the hole for the tensioner looked ok..........

big learning curve for me............not a small job............

spot ya later

pudding