With having a custom made fuel rail made up, I'm going to need an after market fuel pressure regulator. Just had a quick look on ebay but I don't really know what to look for in a regulator. I'm guessing as long as there's a vaccum reference, fuel inlet and outlet I should be right..

Here's a few I'm looking at..
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-KIT-FORD-HOLDEN-CHEV-WRX-LS1-/120696020797?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1a0b1f3d

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Fuel-pressure-regulator-fpr-adjustable-turbocharger-s13-/190520324611?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5be57203

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-COMMODORE-VL-VN-VP-VR-VS-VT-SS-/170511642842?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27b34930da

If anyone has any tips on what I should be looking for in a regulator it will be much appreciated.

Cheers
-Alan

Alan, have not had an oppertunity to reply to your message as yet but I can get you something like a Malpassi Regulator mate, this will be ideal for what you need.

Will get the price and get back to you. Have you done anything with your fuel pump as I can get the Walbro pumps as well

^^^ agree Malpassi thats what i'm using a 2:1 i think it is.

On a side note with the aftermarket fuel rail, make sure its one made of extruded metal (aluminium?), not bits of plate welded together. There have been quite a few cars that have burnt to the ground because the fuel rail flexing out and popping an injector out, or cracking at a weld and squirting fuel everywhere. Would be a shame if all your hard work went up in flames!!

Looks like I'll be using the 380 rail and having a barb silver soldered on to the end. The only thing I'm worried about is the joins breaking. How does the car burn down? Is it the fuel catching alight or the engine burning itself out?

Oh what's the standard size of the fuel barbs?

Are you using barbs or screw on fittings like speedflow etc.

I used screw on like this they are AN6. http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87051&p=1381560&highlight=#post1381560

Be careful with the ebay ones, I bought a sard copy for about $100 - It leaked badly at first because the threads were so poorly made, and once setup ok it made the engine stumble off idle and do some strange things. Returned to stock and no problems, it also handles boost fine .

I'd go a brand name one just to be sure.

Looks like I'll be using the 380 rail and having a barb silver soldered on to the end. The only thing I'm worried about is the joins breaking. How does the car burn down? Is it the fuel catching alight or the engine burning itself out?

Oh what's the standard size of the fuel barbs?

No soldering/welds!!! The car burns down when fuel pisses out of the rail, drips down the engine and hits a hot part like your exhaust manifold. The autoignition temperature of petrol (Meaning temperature it has to be before it spontaneously lights up without a spark/flame... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature) is "246 Degrees Celcius". You'd easily get that on the exhaust manifold.

No soldering/welds!!! The car burns down when fuel pisses out of the rail, drips down the engine and hits a hot part like your exhaust manifold. The autoignition temperature of petrol (Meaning temperature it has to be before it spontaneously lights up without a spark/flame... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature) is "246 Degrees Celcius". You'd easily get that on the exhaust manifold.

In my view there's nothing wrong with soldering. I work with machines that have fuel rails that have been silver soldered handle 1000-1500psi pressures for month long periods at a time, and at temperatures that average above 100 degrees. What's the magna fuel rail operate at .. 30ish or 50psi max?

But you have given me something to think about TJTime.. Cheeers man for the interesting read.

If you want a bit better of a read, get the current issue of "Zoom". I think this week they did a special on fuel rails or something...

No soldering/welds!!! The car burns down when fuel pisses out of the rail, drips down the engine and hits a hot part like your exhaust manifold. The autoignition temperature of petrol (Meaning temperature it has to be before it spontaneously lights up without a spark/flame... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature) is "246 Degrees Celcius". You'd easily get that on the exhaust manifold.

How do you think that they make 380 rails in the first place, clag glue?

Enzed can silver solder the rail and make it work, they do hydrolic fittings that tale 1000 times the pressure and 300 times the heat that dont fail, they can do a simple rail

The reason cars burn is because people use the wrong hose, do not barb the fittings for the hose, skimp on clamts etc etc

Alan, if Enzed say that they can do it, trust them mate, after all this is what they live and breath

Will be back onto you tomorrow also with the reg price

Also, if as I said you use a second 380 rail for the end caps with the pipes you are simply replicating the inlet pipe anyway and also replicating how they are attached