View Full Version : manual conversion
old magna
18-04-2011, 09:49 PM
hi all,
seeing as im putting a manual in my wagon this week i though i might document it with new pictures seeing as the other thread's pics have dissapered. although the other sticky is very informtive pictures say a thousand words i suppose.
the photos, especially of mounting the marster cylinder, peadle box ect should be helpull for anyone else doing this conversion.
so anyway picking up a box and all the bits off magnaman89 tomorow so that should be a good day. got to treck the 150 od ks down to him in my neighbours old 85 mazda B2000. it runs like a dream after i serviced it this week but looks like shit. about the oppisite to my magna which use to run like crap but looks a pritty mint.
so far ive got my old engine out and preapered the second gen engine in putting in. new crank seals at both ends and a full throttle plenum clean and all new gaskets.
alo stripped all the interior out.
so until tomorow
thanks
regards jay
old magna
20-04-2011, 11:42 PM
ok so ill start off by listing the differances between auto and manual.
-relay shaft mount. appeared to mount further out from box.
-transmission mount its self appeared to be quite a bit lower but may be sagged!
-if changing engine A/C mounts must be swapped.
-front loom (although easily modified if you cant get a manual one. lucky i got the manual loom anyway)
the things that are the same in my case were
-in my case appeared the ECU relays were completely different even tho they share the same plug. the auto one wouldn't activate the fuel pump at all so i stuck manual one in there. dont know if they really are different or weather mine was shagged???
-drive shafts (but use different relay shaft)
-hub splines
-all engine mounts and mounting bolts (there is a M and an A next to the bold holes. use M for manual)
-spedo cable
-managed to keep auto peddle with ease. mounted peddle box on slight angle to skew out from brake peddle.
- all hoses (coolant, vacuum ect) are all the same unless you have a vacuum operated 5th gear (as in tm possibly tn).
-throttle body's are the same no matter weather its manual or auto as long aqs its first gen.
im too tired to do a step by step and need to upload pics to computer so that will come either tomorrow morning or night.
mounting clutch master cylinder was easy as pie. i will put the dimensions of the holes ect up later too.
old magna
21-04-2011, 10:42 PM
next ill list what i did to the factory wiring.
it appears that the ECU numbers were exactly the same between the manual and auto computers however i used the manual one. also used TR distributor which was exactly the same numbers too.
the first and biggest problem with the auto loom is the inhibitor switch assembly. this seems to control fuel pump and starter motor as well. in the end i replaced the entire front loom but if you keep the inhibitor off the gear box a quick fix would be to stick it in park and fool the ecu and starter into thinking the box was still there and in park.
the starter solenoid wire from the ignition also has another junction from the loom behind the battery. this 4 pin plug has the reverse light wires (red/blue and red/white wires for reverse light) and the final starter inhibitor (a thick black/red and black/yellow wire). this starter wire must be chopped and soldered together. make sure you have a good join as resistance in the starter solenoid circuit often leads to the thing not cranking when hot.
the reverse lights are easy to hook up. just wire the switch up to the gear box across the two wires. one is live and the other is direct to the lights. you dont put active to one and neutral to the other. just join them across the switch. just thought ide make that clear.
the magnas have no clutch safety switch or any crap like that so nothing like that to wire up.
magnaman89
21-04-2011, 11:11 PM
two quick questions . do,se your se have the plug for cruise. front loom do you mean the one that go,es across under the rad. ? and i thought the auto ecu had three plug and manaul had two. doug
old magna
22-04-2011, 12:07 AM
i havent come across any plugs for cruse but ill have a good look around tomorow. i should say engine loom rather than front loom to be more correct. the ecu's appeared to be exactly the same. ill plug the auto one in for shits and giggles and see if it works tomorrow.
thanks.
regards jay
old magna
22-04-2011, 12:15 PM
engine:
as i had the engine out on the floor i did both crank seals. main was $8 and timing cover one was $4.50 from bursons. cost literary ten times that from mitsubishi.
all of the astron 2.6 engines apparently have the exact same bolt patterns and holes. only thing is the earlier ones dont have knock sensor but thats of no real consequence. i put a tr engine in and just left the sensor in but disconnected. there is a bushing in the end of the crank for auto where the torque converter fits into. i used a pipe wrench to turn it and loosen it. then pulled it out with vice grips. all cranks also have the same 6 bolt pattern on 4 cylinder engines.
i aligned the clutch by eye off the hole in the flywheel. it worked for me perfectly. there is a big difference in starters and flywheels so make sure you keep the original for gear box. i believe earlier model flywheels have the ring gear further in so the starter wont engage as i found out! (another trip to morwell the next day) as i got the gear box / flywheel out of a tp my tp starter fitted up too which was a bonus as the one from the donar car had shagged bushes and rusted shaft.
i bolted the gear box to the motor on the floor. i tipped the motor so the timing case was to the floor and balanced it on bits of wood and a old cd drive lol. once the pressure plate was attached (be careful these bolts sheer very easily!!!) the gear box slipped strait on. dont forget the earth cable from the battery on one of those bolts.
when i put the engine in i had a chain from the rear top gear box / engine bolt and the other end on the alternator mount. this worked very well. hung strait as a die. i certainly do not trust those tacky lifting loops pre installed! i also bolted the inlet plenum up before installation. i also installed the starter motor and relay shaft to the back of the engine. all engine mounts were attached and gear box mounting box was held in by its rear bolt (which would not come out!) i did not have the gear box mount on the chassis tho.
so dad lifted the engine with the block and tackle while i fought it into position. i bolted the A/C compressor on while it was hanging. just be careful of the A/C condenser. the torque stay mounts get awfully close!
so lowered the engine onto its mounts and pooped the main front mount then the torque stays bolts in making sure to use the holes with M next to then. i then installed the gear box chassis mount. the hardest part of the hole thing was getting the gear box bolt in the mount. required a fer crow bars and curses but it was easy in the scheme of things.
i then connected all the gear linkages and bolted the slave cylinder on and bleed the clutch (took 5 minutes by my self. very easy) after that it was exhaust manifold, water pump and alternator ect.
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