My 2007 380 SX was today diagnosed by an RAA mechanic with 'crankshaft position sensor A circuit intermittent' requiring further investigation from a Mitsi dealer. Warning light on dash indicated a problem yesterday and again today however on RAA arrival light no longer indicating a problem. RAA stated the warning would likely come on again if the problem not fixed. Some difficulty starting the car yesterday. RAA stated car could be driven but with potential of not being able to be started again. Will book car in after Easter. Nothing located on this forum or from google search. Any info from other forum users appreciated.

the Battery is on the way out

I have had this failure.

It was a direct consequence of the crank sensor lead crushed by the plastic timing belt cover just above the harmonic balancer at around the 1 oclock position.

It is not a quality issue, mine was done as a result of a forged engine installation.

When it fails completely it will throw up error code U1120...which is confusing cause that decodes to CAN BUS error at auto trans.

It took three days to find after we changed the fuel pump, all ECU's , steering column, fuse box, sound system.....blah blah blah.

Easy when you know......:)

This is where mine failed.....

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/4237/cranksensorwire.jpg (http://img820.imageshack.us/i/cranksensorwire.jpg/)

I've twice had the error code P0339 come up.

It indicates either Crankshaft Position Sensor Fault or Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent.

Both times I'm fairly sure it was due to electrical problems, the first time following fitting of a new Optima Red Top 800CCA battery, the second time following fitting of HIDs which interferred with my ChipTorque Xede piggyback ECU.

The 380 ECU is very senstitive to voltage dips & spikes, and will throw an error code & limp home mode at the drop of a hat.

Once you turn the ignition off & let it sit for a while the code & limp home mode will usually go away.

So I'm with Mecha, combine this code with hard starting, and the fact that it has now 'gone away', and the most likely cuplrit is a dud battery.

If your battery is four or more years old it's time to replace it.

I suggest you try that first before an expensive trip to the dealer.

Make sure you get a decent battery, at least 600CCA.

I was looking at that oin a 3.5L, thinking it could be as potential problem down the track. Might be an idea to enlarge the opening for the wire to go through, adding an extra sleeve to reduce the kink in the wiring at that point and locking it all down with silastic when the covers are on.

Both times I'm fairy sure it was due to electrical problems

Fairies or goblins?

Both times I'm fairy sure it was due to electrical problems

Fairies or goblins?

Nah, just keyboard sprites!

I'll go back and edit it now!

That's a bit scarey regarding the battery. My original battery is 5 years old in June, and still starting okay (at least for now).

Yeah, the factory battery seems to have been reasonably good in the 380 (touches wood), although the slightly cooler summers over the last two years have probably helped.

I guess it depends a lot on how much it is used and how well maintained, but seems to be a bit better than the 3rd gen. I have about 6 family/friends with 3rd gens and ALL of them had the factory battery fail within 1 month either side of the three year mark.

I'm at 3 years 7 months on the factory battery, and I drive very short distances most of the time - only 3km from my front door to the work carpark.

You'd be right. Coincidentally I asked the RAA bloke yesterday to also test the battery as it was nearing the end of its 3rd year. His meter indicated 'replace battery'. I've just had a new 600CCA installed - $170 - not cheap I know but it took him nearly half an hour to get the new one in. Certainly not a job for those of us who are not familiar with replacing a battery on a modern vehicle. A 600CCA battery also weighs 16kg with little room to manouevre it into position so keep that in mind if you think you can do it yourself. As the car is a SX model the torsion bar also had to be removed first. The car started instantly with none of the previous hesitation. The crook battery certainly ties in with the advice received by forum members. Many thanks to all.

You'd be right. Coincidentally I asked the RAA bloke yesterday to also test the battery as it was nearing the end of its 3rd year. His meter indicated 'replace battery'. I've just had a new 600CCA installed - $170 - not cheap I know but it took him nearly half an hour to get the new one in. Certainly not a job for those of us who are not familiar with replacing a battery on a modern vehicle. A 600CCA battery also weighs 16kg with little room to manouevre it into position so keep that in mind if you think you can do it yourself. As the car is a SX model the torsion bar also had to be removed first. The car started instantly with none of the previous hesitation. The crook battery certainly ties in with the advice received by forum members. Many thanks to all.

Congrats on sorting it out - the battery install sounds strange though. I took mine to a Supercharge outlet and they installed mine in less than 10 minutes - and didn't touch the strut brace. Also 600cca

This may be all in the mind but some reckon the car actually runs better after fitting a new battery. Mine certainly seemed to

Congrats on sorting it out - the battery install sounds strange though. I took mine to a Supercharge outlet and they installed mine in less than 10 minutes - and didn't touch the strut brace. Also 600cca

I replaced mine recently myself & the strutbrace had to come off, I couldn't how it would be possible to get it in any other way.

I replaced mine recently myself & the strutbrace had to come off, I couldn't how it would be possible to get it in any other way.

fair enough - they must have done it when i wasn't looking

It is generally accepted in the dealership that hard starting/engine light with crank angle sensor code is the battery. Funny thing is most of the batteries test ok. According to MMAL, the condition occurs while cranking and the supply voltage to the engine sensors and ecu drops below a certain value. We replace the batteries at the customers expense.

Heres a question, I am replacing my battery this wek... Is there a Nm measurement on the strutbrace bolts?, if so can anyone tell me what it is? Basicly I dont want the thing comming loose whilst driving. :P

Heres a question, I am replacing my battery this wek... Is there a Nm measurement on the strutbrace bolts?, if so can anyone tell me what it is? Basicly I dont want the thing comming loose whilst driving. :P

Removed my battery about 12 months ago without removing strut bar. Slid it forward and angled up as I removed it.. Went back in the same way (in reverse).

I was actualy looking at that yesterday & it looked to me that you could slide it forward but I would have thought the MAF sensor would need to be removed to get it past? ..... unless mine is in a slightly different position due to the supercharger?

I've done mine and didn't need to remove strut brace either, as above, tilt, slide and lift. Little bit fiddly but not too difficult. Good possibility Foozrcool that your MAF sensor may not be quite in the stock position, what with all the pron under the bonnet.

ok, will give that a go.

Sorry for the OT posts, Swapped out the battery today, no problems. Tilted the front up and the battery slid straight out. Reconnected everything and away we go. 15 minute job tops.