The manual seems to suggest that the traction control is part of the ABS ECU - can anyone confirm this?

I can't find anything in the workshop manual about traction control, other than on page 70-14 where it refers to Control Units and lists ABS-ECU or ABS/TCL-ECU.

So it does seem that TC is controlled by the ABS ECU, but I can't confirm that for sure.

KJ.

The traction control is driven by the chopper plates and pick-up sensors in each front hub (ABS componants) and like ABS it senses when the wheel speeds dont match, ABS in reverse if you like, hope that helps.

yep I have the same manual information.
Neil, that end of the system is no problem I just need to know if the engine ECU and ABS ECU both need to be changed, or just one?

I believe only the ABS unit, though not 100% sure. The whole system is pretty smart, another thing all the componant protection software does is drop the engine back to limp home if you free rev and hold the revs high when stationary, no speed sensor feed back tells the car the driver is not doing the right thing, we've been caught out on the grid (race starts) if they hold the red lights too long. Speaking of starts, the best launch for a 380 or Magna is hold 3000 rpm and dump the clutch.

Thanks Neil, I did not know about the limp home from revving...not that good. The next thing I need to find out is will it start and run if the door ECU and Climate ECU are not connected...any ideas?

We've stripped a lot of the interior out of the race cars, so seats, aircon, air bag impact sensors and the radio in the TMR (I've still got the 6 stacker in my car, stops me falling asleep on the dummy grid) are all gone. The cars run but you almost need sunglasses to stop the glare from all the warning lights on the dash, we just ignore them, I'm sure the same thing will happen if you pull the 2 ECU's.

We've stripped a lot of the interior out of the race cars, so seats, aircon, air bag impact sensors and the radio in the TMR (I've still got the 6 stacker in my car, stops me falling asleep on the dummy grid) are all gone. The cars run but you almost need sunglasses to stop the glare from all the warning lights on the dash, we just ignore them, I'm sure the same thing will happen if you pull the 2 ECU's.

Neil,

Dead easy to pull the speedo/tacho unit out of the dash, remove the front cover (eight plastic clips), then lift the dial cover at the edges and block off all/most of the warning lights with little bits of black felt or foam. Each light is an LED soldered to a motherboard, and each sits behind it's own little 'hole' behind the dial. Just poke a piece of black felt or foam in each of these holes and hey presto, no more annoying dash lights. This is what Foozrcool and I have done to block off the annoying CEL light, caused by our extractors and semi-functioning rear O2 sensors.

Good to know that it runs Neil, but I have an added challenge as I may have the OBD-2 port checked and read for fault codes for emissions (I will have to pass an IM240 as it is). What I have been told is that if there are fault codes - regardless that they would be for - then it may be knocked back. I can see that I can argue the airbags - but I want to be sure that nothing can be construed as part of the engine system...plus at $500 per test I want to also be sure that I don't have to repeat the test at all!
Any chance you could disconnect the climate ECU and Window ECU and see if it still starts?