http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-PowerVox-5600-Watt-4-Channel-Car-Amplifier-Silver-/260775571012?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb76f6e44

I think this is a complete scam, what do you think?

Not a scam just a rubbish brand

Look at the sellers feedback. its excellent so yeah just a rubbish product

Wouldnt last long

I wouldn't buy it, these would be lucky to put out 40wrms a channel, and the quality from these is nothing worth worrying about.

I have had many new members over on MEA complaining about Powervox amps, so that is one brand to steer clear from.

+1 to what Mr SPL and peaandham have said... it's a legitimate auction, but the product's shite. You get what you pay for...

Dont buy it, you will regret it! Shitty amp which will put out a tiny amount of power and die very quickly!

Not a scam just a rubbish brand

Look at the sellers feedback. its excellent so yeah just a rubbish product

Wouldnt last long

I agree with you. But also, don't always trust a seller's feedback on eBay. I saw an account with 500k positive feedback for sale for $150 a couple of weeks ago. I barely ever look at a seller's feedback anymore.

Okay thanks guys, just wanted to know if ebay did deals like that for legit amps and good quality, i might have a look on gumtree,

Okay thanks guys, just wanted to know if ebay did deals like that for legit amps and good quality, i might have a look on gumtree,

There are two pawn shops in my city, both have a couple of amps and a few subs. Maybe you should have a look at one in your area. I got a Pioneer sub and an Alpine amp for $90 ($40 for the amp, $50 for the sub). Sure, they're not top of the range or brand new, but they're pretty good and a decent brand, I dare say they'd be a better quality than the one on that eBay link.

Cheers, i never thought of that, im sure there would be some on the goldcoast

If your going to go Cheap at least get Jaycar..

Yeah i work at jaycar so PM me if you want brand new stuff cheap :) I get the best prices as an employee lol

If your going to go Cheap at least get Jaycar..

$150 to $350 isn't that cheap. Compared to the eBay link especially.

Jaycar has nothing like that though. i went in the other day and it has nothing for cars.

and MR SPL, thanks, il keep that in mind.

Output power (RMS): 560W (140W x 4) <- 2x20A fuses = 40A, 40ampsx14.7volts=588W maximum input, and a fair bit of that will be lost as heat, not sound energy.

Thankyou, i didnt realise that things happened like that i thought that it was all just pumped into the sound energy

Theres also any energy used to run lights or fans, and transformers to change voltage I think are usually something like 40-60% efficient or something.

I've been told before that electrical Watts do not equate to amplifier Watts RMS.

That doesn't mean that your observation isn't true, just not directly comparable.

Watts "RMS" can even be measured in different ways - normally it's measured to a low amount of noise - eg 0.03% THD (total harmonic distortion) and at a specific sound frequency (eg: 1KHz).
Dodge amplifier labellers will measure the output power but crank it to make lots of noise and at a different frequency, whatever produces the biggest number.


If this amplifier works reliably, I'd say it's comparable output would be anywhere from 20-50W RMS per channel.

Jaycar has nothing like that though. i went in the other day and it has nothing for cars.
Jaycar sell a range of 'Response' amplifiers - see here (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?CATID=15&SUBCATID=443&keyform=CAT&SUBMIT.x=27&SUBMIT.y=13). They're the best budget amplifiers you can buy. If you're on an even tighter budget, you could probably pick up an older model cheap second-hand.

Nothing for Cars? lol you sure you went to the right store?

We have amps, wiring, splits, sound deadening, head units etc Everything you need!

But yeah the response brand has actually beaten makers like pioneer and sony etc! Tests and awards in output

I've been told before that electrical Watts do not equate to amplifier Watts RMS.

That doesn't mean that your observation isn't true, just not directly comparable.

Watts "RMS" can even be measured in different ways - normally it's measured to a low amount of noise - eg 0.03% THD (total harmonic distortion) and at a specific sound frequency (eg: 1KHz).
Dodge amplifier labellers will measure the output power but crank it to make lots of noise and at a different frequency, whatever produces the biggest number.


If this amplifier works reliably, I'd say it's comparable output would be anywhere from 20-50W RMS per channel.

Electrical watts are nowhere near RMS usually, just trying to point out that theres no way possible that 5400W would go through 40A of fuses at a cars typical voltage. And with the RMS rated at near the total input im 99% sure it wouldn't get close to that. Also, anything rated at peak music power output is usually a case of pick a nice, big, even number, any number at all, and put it on the front in a large font.

So the amp that i want, needs to power a sub and 2 speakers (Possibly more if possible) Could it do that? or would ineed 2 amps. and how cheap could i get the amp from jaycar (The $150 one) If you helped me out MR SPL, Pm me if needs be :) cheers

Hard to answer that question without knowing more! How powerful is the sub, how powerful are the speakers? impedance?

The sub i want is 1000W i think, its the fusion ones from supercheap, ($99) My fusion speakers are 310W and my other speakers are like 250, i dont know weather to leave the 250W or 310W running on the stereo's power or Amp though.

Okay so you want your fronts amped and your rears running from the head unit? The speakers are max ratings so you arn't going to get much from them. a 4x100 would be enough for 2 speakers and a sub for a budget install?

Well my 2 front speakers are stock. My 2 back speakers are fusion, and i have 2 others wired up in the boot. (They are connected into the same wiring unit as the fusion is, behind the head unit.

So i will probably want, My Fusion (310W hooked up to my amp, along with my sub, then the rest running off my head unit

Basically forget the big numbers on the box. Completely. They are a lod of bull. Look for RMS power on both speakers and amp. Thats all that matters. Always have the amp produce more power RMS per channel then speaker and by a good margin. That will allow you to run amp at way below max gain which will reduce the probability of overheat, sound clipping that ruins speakers and keep your system working well. If you can, run EVERYTHING off amp(s). You'll get much better sound that way. Jaycar have a 5-channel amp if you really wanna save money and run the lot off that but I'd advise to have 2 amps. One 4-channel for all 4 speakers and a monoblock/2-channel for your sub. If your head unit has 3 RCA pre-outs then its perfect as it will allow you to get perfect setup for amps and get full control over the whole system.

There is 60W RMS Clarion amp I use and don't have any trouble. Make sure you drag a new wire to the amp. It will make sure you get no problems with wiring side of things.

Look for RMS power on both speakers and amp. Thats all that matters.

Uhhh not trying to be a know all or anything but can't companies (especially chinese ones) still vastly over-exaggerate the rms power of both amps and speakers? :P

RMS isnt all that matters... RMS + OHMS is...
Alot of people dont realise that like the Fusion powerplant subs are like 1000W RMS (or somthign aroudn there) at 2ohms... makes them 500W at 4OHMS... which is the standard most ppl are refering to when they say "watts rms"
I had people sit in my car with my 750w rms (@ 4ohM) sub powered by a 600W RMS @ 4ohm amp - and say "wow how can that be 600wats"
also people say they buy a pioneer amp and it is only 300W and its louder than a 500W rms cheap brand; coz the cheap brand is usualy givving you the rating in 2ohms...or fusion give rating on 1ohm for there subs :S

anyway get a amp that puts out the power you want at the OHMS you want. :) make sure you look at ohms! :P n btw that amp that you had in the originating post is just rubbish firend bought one like that (just red in color) and basicaly threw it out lol it was that bad... 1 channel died instantly lol

RMS isnt all that matters... RMS + OHMS is...
Alot of people dont realise that like the Fusion powerplant subs are like 1000W RMS (or somthign aroudn there) at 2ohms... makes them 500W at 4OHMS... which is the standard most ppl are refering to when they say "watts rms"


No, your thinking of amplifier output here. The impedence (ohms) of the subwoofer voicecoil/s is there so you can get it wired up correctly to the amp. Hence why you usually have a choice of 2ohm or 4ohm when buying most subwoofers, its to suit your needs based on your amplifier and has nothing to do with output. If a subwoofer requires a 2 ohm load, then this is how you must wire the voicecoils. You can however wire the amp to a different impedence depending on how the speakers are wired (parallel/series...), as long as the voicecoils on the subwoofer/s are still getting the required load.
A 500wrms 2 ohm sub is in no way inferior to a 500wrms 4ohm sub.


Anyway, cheap amps are never a good idea. Go for an amplifier with a good reputation and if possible, one that gives a birth sheet with its amps so you know the power your specific amp is putting out. When it comes to amplifiers, you get what you pay for.