Hey, just quickly. Are the bulbs that we use in our cars rated at 50 or 55 watts?

Hey, just quickly. Are the bulbs that we use in our cars rated at 50 or 55 watts?
Standard headlight bulbs are H4 55/60 (55 for normal use and 60 for highbeam use)
Older Parabolics also use H4 55/60. Newer ones use H7 55.

The separate highbeam uses H1 55.

Cheers. I'm just sussing out the specs on some Bosch bulbs. Revelstone2 recommended them and I couldn't remember what wattage we should be using.

OSRAM/Silverstar are good if you want something a bit more exxy than Narva 50+ (IMHO very good bulbs and cheap).

Its funny that you say this (changing headlamps) cause I am looking the same thing at this minute, I am looking at some super white lights output power is 110W/100W,

they are awesome to see, so bright at night which is what we are after!

Here is a website that can help you work out what globe u need

http://www.austaglobes.com.au/Globes.htm

TRMagna92

Its funny that you say this (changing headlamps) cause I am looking the same thing at this minute, I am looking at some super white lights output power is 110W/100W,

they are awesome to see, so bright at night which is what we are after!

Here is a website that can help you work out what globe u need

http://www.austaglobes.com.au/Globes.htm

TRMagna92

No they are not awesome to see when they blind oncoming drivers or melt your wiring, and are not what we're after. May be what you're after though. Good quality standard wattage globes and properly aimed headlights is the best solution.

I have had 110w Zenon Globes in for about 4 months no melting yet, but have had a couple of pissed off drivers high beeming me haha :nuts: :badgrin: haha but when they do I put my beamers on and they over rated bright white/blue ones and I think thats sufficent payback lol

I had 110w globes in my headlights and ended up blowing several fuses along with the lefthand globe, so I swapped them back over for the 55w globes
Stu :D

I have had 110w Zenon Globes in for about 4 months no melting yet, but have had a couple of pissed off drivers high beeming me haha :nuts: :badgrin: haha but when they do I put my beamers on and they over rated bright white/blue ones and I think thats sufficent payback lol
Firstly, it's spelt Xenon.

Secondly, you are a dickhead. Do you have any idea how f**king dangerous that is? And you think it's cool to go around blinding people as "payback"? Payback for what? Payback for you being an irresponsible s**thead who doesn't deserve a license. How the hell did you expect to post this s**t and not get flamed. You f**king dickhead.

Firstly, it's spelt Xenon.

Secondly, you are a dickhead. Do you have any idea how f**king dangerous that is? And you think it's cool to go around blinding people as "payback"? Payback for what? Payback for you being an irresponsible s**thead who doesn't deserve a license. How the hell did you expect to post this s**t and not get flamed. You f**king dickhead.

agreed. and also, its spelt "touch" not "toutch".

yer i dont mean to be rude but i kinda agree, i hate driving and having these lights blare in my eyes from infront and the brighter ones seem to get the corner of ur eye as the car drives passed and its HEAPS bright if u know wot i mean it seems to have a barrer or its like out of adjustment and there focusing to the side in the corner of ur eye :rant:

I have had 110w Zenon Globes in for about 4 months no melting yet, but have had a couple of pissed off drivers high beeming me haha :nuts: :badgrin: haha but when they do I put my beamers on and they over rated bright white/blue ones and I think thats sufficent payback lol
That's pretty uncool. Our electrics are designed for 55W and nothing more. All you'll do is cause your headlight plastic to discolour, cause electrical problems and blind other people.

my question is

Considering your head lights are properly alligned on the road and due to polycarbonate covers you cant put 110 watts globes

so how will you increase visibility on the road ???

i.e. not just gettign the whit light with 0 visibility in rain.

something all rounder but whiter lights.

my question is

Considering your head lights are properly alligned on the road and due to polycarbonate covers you cant put 110 watts globes

so how will you increase visibility on the road ???

i.e. not just gettign the whit light with 0 visibility in rain.

something all rounder but whiter lights.

To increase up-front visibility you would fit something akin to the Narva 30+ or 50+ range; they are perceived to put out more light as they change the angle of the filament/reflector and shoot more light forward (but not UP), this is how they get their 30/50% more light without uppping the power rating.

To compensate for this you would then run fog lights in poor weather conditions to increase the side lighting since these bulbs would have reduced side lighting characteristics.

As for 'white, crystal, hyper blue etc' and all those other gimmick globes, they actually put out LESS light, and cause more glare. Using the full light spectrum (no color filter on the bulb glass) gives you maximum lighting, and a slight yellow or full yellow hue is best in heavy rain or fog conditions as it reflects less than white or blue light which has a much smaller wavelength.

vrxbeachboy: I could flame you but I seriously couldn't be bothered wasting my time.

thanks Tek--

I agree with those gimmick lights , while they may look your car cool or give euro look at night time they have very low visibility at night times and during rain its a big no no.

I have user Philips crystal vision ($100 H4) in past and they have very nice white light and you can read the sign boradrs from much much far but thats about it con on road / off road its preety hard to find the road withthem.

hi have the Narva 50+ lights and they are much the same as the standard lights

ppl clam down if he has not melted his wiring, its unlikly to be 110W, alot of those cheap blue, white 110W are NOT 110W they just say that on the box

i understand that it is dangerous to blind someone

not to sure about this, but if u had the light allign correct, no matter how much the Wattage is it should not matter????????

hi have the Narva 50+ lights and they are much the same as the standard lights

ppl clam down if he has not melted his wiring, its unlikly to be 110W, alot of those cheap blue, white 110W are NOT 110W they just say that on the box

i understand that it is dangerous to blind someone

not to sure about this, but if u had the light allign correct, no matter how much the Wattage is it should not matter????????

Alignment controls the shape of the beam, however upping the power changes the intensity. If you increase the intensity with the same alignment, then where the light intensity would usually taper off as it approaches other drivers' eyes, it would still be quite bright.

FWIW I LOVE the look of genuine (not aftermarket) HID lights, the purity and intensity of the light is phenomenal. I could almost go out and buy a car just for the headlights as it's almost like driving in the day with some high end Audis and BMWs.

HID's rock :) I fitted E46 (Original Equipment) HID's on my magna (in the parabolics) and you would not believe the difference they made.

Comments re: bulb power etc.

1) Increasing the power of the bulbs also has the disadvantage of increasing the amount of light above the cutoff - more glare.

2) Blue bulbs drop the light output - there are maximum and minimum limits for headlight output, and your headlights are ADR approved for a specific power bulb as well - increase the bulb power, and your headlights are no longer ADR approved. (see (1))

3) Dichroic (ie shiny silver/blue coated bulbs, made to look like the colourband of a projector, but used by sad wannabe ricers) are far, far worse than the blue coated bulbs - they reflect large amounts of light around where it was never designed to be - giving unacceptably high levels of glare - especially in carefully designed reflectors with no bulb shield (eg. corollas, AU falcons etc) this has very dismal output and high levels of glare.

I could rant and rave about the effects of different types of bulbs in different reflectors (have studied this rather in depth) but it isn't worth it...

Needless to say, uncoated premium bulbs from reputable manufacturers (Philips 'Vision Plus', Hella, Narva +50's etc. not something like Wan-Kin Extra Special Fried Ricer blue bulbs)

Check the voltage at the bulbs - measure the voltage between the negative terminal of the bulb, and the negative terminal of the battery - do the same with the positive.

This gives an idea of the voltage drops across the wiring - a negative is easy enough to wire close to the bulbs, the positive should be wired to the battery via a decent guage cable and a relay - sometimes this will give better results than the blue bulbs - halogens are yellow if the voltage is low...

Cheers
Heath Young

Enough ranting...

This gives an idea of the voltage drops across the wiring - a negative is easy enough to wire close to the bulbs, the positive should be wired to the battery via a decent guage cable and a relay - sometimes this will give better results than the blue bulbs - halogens are yellow if the voltage is low...


Agreed that especially in older cars with aged wiring, the direct to battery relay/new ground mod is very effective. I am yet to do this in mine as there is only about a 0.3V drop at the plug. Keeping the headlights clean also is very effective :cool:

Ok point taken I won't install them,