car in question is a 1995 magna ts 2.6l 4 cylinder

engine starts to spluter, pop and have no power
Can rev it to 6k being gentle on the throtle, but any more than light throttle it just misses and back fires.

I did a ecu error check and no faults appeared the check engine light does work

there is no vac leaks

What i can gather that when i first start it up in the morning and i can drive it fine on a cold engine without pinging or spluter pop but as soon as the engine starts to get warm it starts to ping and cough , splutter and have no power at all till im over 70km


timing is correct

1342 is the firing order clockwise

one is at the top of the cap

the brass bit of the rotor has to be facing up at TDC

Put number one cylinder on TDC at the top of its stroke
and the timing mark should be at TDC also

(from the passenger side/timing chains it 1234)

it only happens when there is engine load but idleing is perfectly fine

sounds like spark, was that you posting on my thread with similar problem?

yeah but its sounds like the exact problem im getting

spark is good

i allso wanted to know is there any difference between the auto ecu and manual ecu

how did you test for good spark? if its only happening under load.
any other problems with the car.
mine had a dead battery, which killed the Coil.

i take a bet its the leads,
same thing happened to my dads landcruiser not a week ago,
and im fairly sure that tr's are know to have sh*thouse sparkplug leads, as most i've seen have been replaced (including mine)

had similar problem changed ecu dissy coil fuel relay leads and plugs. as a last resouce changed the fuel pump. that fixed my problem. it ran like crap driving forward and ran fine in reverse, i know sounds stupid but worked for me.

leads are new

i took the lead of and hooked the sprak plug up and earthed it it has a nice bright blue light so i know its good and there is no arcing any where

Hi
I was going to say pugs or leads etc,,,,but has all be said. Just a stab in the dark how are the fuel injectors and the rail??
When it warms up you have problems. Could be lots of things seems like you have covered most of the basics.

When you do find it please post what it was.

well i just checked all sensor including tps and dizzy and what not that has a power wires hanging from it and they seem to check out perfectly fine

only other thing that is a maybe might be fuel pump from starving for fuel? where can i find the fuel pump relay aswell?

allso can a ecu from a manual be used on a auto?

fuel relay is under glovebox. as for the manual and auto ecu,s i,ve never tried . but ill would say no.

fuel relay is under the glovebox close to the left of glovebox. as for the ecu,s i dought they are changeable.

just thought i would throw it out there but i was wondering if there is anyone in the kingswood/ penrith area on this forum that could take a look at it for me im really stumped as to wtf is wrong with it

oops double post. yea took me two weeks before i changed the fuel pump. try nsw thread. it totaly pee,d me of to the point of a new gaurd.lol wish you luck

If it's fuel injected try tapping the Air meter just before the air filter (box) I limped mine along for about 6 months by doing this, had exactly the same issues.

Sounds like a fuel pump issue. When you don't need much fuel (running up gently, or cruising over 70km/h), it's OK, but when you give it some, it won't get enough fuel to do it, pings etc. PM madmagna (Mal), and he may have some ideas, he's a mechanic, unlike us bush mechanics.

i just uploaded a video so tell me what you think

http://s255.photobucket.com/albums/hh159/osdsubzero/?action=view&current=MVI_6553.mp4

That sounds like our old honda accord when the timing was out by one tooth.

butn the thing is its not out by a tooth this engine came out of a working car that was getting wrecked so yeah this car has got its 2nd engine


sorry was eating dinner while typed this

what i ment was

its not out by a tooth because it is at btdc perfectly this engine came out of a working car that had no problem but as soon as it got put in this started to happen about 4months later im still thinking its a ecu problem but im not sure if a there is any difference between a ecu that came out of a manual and going into a auto

bty this engine came out of a manual car

from my understanding you can put a auto ecu into a manual but not the other way around, just like deamimus did for his manual conversion.

If you kept the auto you don't need to change the ecu, but you do need to change the drive plate.

If you have put the manual trans in as well then change the ECU from the manual car too.

The manual ECU won't work properly in an auto car. Considering most of the magnas are auto, it shouldnt be a big issue to get another auto ecu

well i put the manual ecu in and no change i think i might replace the dizzy cap etc etc again and see if it helps

other then that im stumped its not like i cant drive it but feathering the gas pedal is annoying i want to go faster :P

i put my alpine mp3 player in it today and pioneer speakers but thats about it

i have 17inch rims to go on it but i have to wait till i get a set of stock ford rims to go back on my 95 ford falcon

here are the rims they are 17inch lwt 8inch wide rim

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh159/osdsubzero/IMG_6548.jpg

they wont fit the magna as the offset is very different the wheels will stick out the guards substantially especially coming of a e series falcon

hey reaper ,just wondering if got the running problem sorted. and what it was thanks doug

nah not yet dude but im getting close

hope you find it soon .

you getting the same problem too?

no as prev post it took me 2 weeks to track down my prob and it pissed me off big time. just hope you dont get to where i did.i allmost burnt the bloody thing lol

well i have checked everything again with the timing and its perfect

when my parants owned it *its mine now* my dad said he replaced the dizzy cap and leads but didn't say if they where new

so this week im going to do a full service on it and see how it goes

as for the fuel filter im not sure i have a mirage ce fuel filter brand new never used and i checked up on ryco website that they are the same except the mirage filter is just a tad smaller

i checked injectors and they seem to be working fine

so only time will tell

well after 1 ****ing year its about ****ing time

98% of the problem is gone and only 2% remain which i think its due to spark plugs and leads and fuel filter once i do that 2moz a nice big full tank of premium is going in :D

ah **** yeah i went for a drive in a dark street tonight and found the other 2% problem which turned out to be a arcing lead i will be replacing that along with a good service

problem solved