Hey guys i've been thinking of using tighe camshafts in the Ralliart for a bit of extra horsepower and finish it off with a postal tune from SKR
1.Can i simply buy lumpier cams and pop them in and then it's finished? I have Ralliart valve springs so can they handle a 272 profile camshaft? What else will i need to change to accomodate the higher lift camshafts?

2. Do different cams require a mod plate? Or is it something that kinda flys under the radar.

Cheers guys

Whats the specs on the Tighe 272 profile?

Don't think a postal tune will do a camshaft justice find a tuner in home state.

Whats a mod plate?

Cheers Dave

Not sure i can't find much about them.
Mod plate is what i understand to be proven mechanical inspection for major mods as in supercharger or turbo to show that the car is allowed to have the modification.

Mod plates are qld only. Nsw has engineers certificates.

Yeah understand the mod plate. Sorry thought it was a mechanical part.

If I where you. I wouldn't buy a cam if I didn't have all the specs. I gather they are secondhand if you don't have the specs.

Specs I mean, inlet duration and lift, exhaust duration and lift +lobe seperation. Or inlet opening/closing + exhaust opening/closing, with valve/lobe lift. intake/exhaust centreline. Are all things that can help understand the cam you are interested in buying

Cheers Dave

This is pretty much all over my head as i'm not that knowledable about how the engine works. Might just leave it stock and work on asthetics haha

You will need to raise the compression so make them work better, DOHC pajero pistons will do fine if staying N/A
And while its open might aswell do rod botls and such
Will need to do some headwork aswell

Yea think i might not bother, sounds like an expensive exercise. If i really want that much more power i should be buying a turbo.

The Ralliart will perform a fair bit better with a 98 tune alone, which SKR can do on a postal. He's done a few should be able to give you an idea of gain.

Most of the gain will be in the mid range.

Cheers Dave

The Ralliart will perform a fair bit better with a 98 tune alone, which SKR can do on a postal. He's done a few should be able to give you an idea of gain.

Most of the gain will be in the mid range.

Cheers Dave

Sorry but do you know what a postal tune costs? I understand his dyno tunes are about $500 and postal should be cheaper.

Yeah, i've done some research and it seems like you should just grab a tune, and from personal experience remove some unnecessary weight from the car. That's pretty much all you can do to improve straight line speed without spending too much money.

Supercharger/Turbo is the next best thing, but obviously we can't do that.

Yeah, i've done some research and it seems like you should just grab a tune, and from personal experience remove some unnecessary weight from the car. That's pretty much all you can do to improve straight line speed without spending too much money.

Supercharger/Turbo is the next best thing, but obviously we can't do that.

Red respray might gain a few kw.

Not really much weight to reduce. I don't even have a sub in the car. Only thing i can think of is spare tyre but that's staying!

Sorry but do you know what a postal tune costs? I understand his dyno tunes are about $500 and postal should be cheaper.

Why dont you just call Steve (SKR) and ask.... Its a much better way to get a price AND you can ask/tell him exactly what you have and want to achieve.

Steve Knight Racetech (SKR)
Motor Engineers & Repairers - Lonsdale, SA
8 Walla St, Lonsdale SA 5160, Australia
(08) 8384 2052

Exactly as dave said. Call steve he is not scary and is more than happy to chat

Not sure why you would want to raise comp on a ralliart motor or do heads given are done already

Cheers i'll see what happens.

Red respray might gain a few kw.

Not really much weight to reduce. I don't even have a sub in the car. Only thing i can think of is spare tyre but that's staying!

Bycicle pump and a can of that green tyre slime weighs less than a spare?

I didn't run a spare in my Auto for a couple months before i crashed, and i had no problems. If you get a puncture, get a friend to come out with either your spare or another wheel+tyre.

Obviously if you're planning a long enough trip, drop the spare back in, but for cruises and driving around town you might as well take it out. Hell, because we run the same as falcons, there's a 50% chance you can flag down a falcon on the side of the road and convince them to loan you their spare until you get to a tyre shop for like $10.


One of the best possible things you can do is get good lightweight wheels with sticky tyres. Just losing 1kg off each wheel+tyre would mean roughly the same as a 40kg loss in the rest of the car.

One of the best possible things you can do is get good lightweight wheels with sticky tyres. Just losing 1kg off each wheel+tyre would mean roughly the same as a 40kg loss in the rest of the car.[/QUOTE]


I agree lightweight wheels is money well spent and has an amplified effect, however from what I've read the comparison was more like a 1kg weight saving on the unsprung weight (that is wheels/tyres) would yield similar gains to a 2kg saving from the vehicle itself?

As everyone has suggested, best to just give Steve a ring. It would be ideal to get it dyno tuned after getting CAMs fitted but Steve should be able to get the AFRs pretty accurate PROVIDED that you let him know exactly what your car is: Ralliart motor, exhaust mods, any intake mods, cams, etc..

Can anyone comment on how tune will be affected by getting different cam? Im just curious, i.e why would ignition map be any different between two cams? Surely cam lift/duration has nothing to do with ignition map? Yes we all know ralliart cam with let more air in at high revs vs stock, but how does that affect the actual spark advance? So in theory your tune should be same regardless of cam profile (to a reasonable degree of course), its obvious that higher lift cam will pump out more power but thats due to more air being sucked into chamber at higher revs, hence more fuel so you get harder push......

Im just talking about timing, clearly AFR tuning will have to be adjusted to compensate for more air at higher revs....

Can anyone comment on how tune will be affected by getting different cam? Im just curious, i.e why would ignition map be any different between two cams? Surely cam lift/duration has nothing to do with ignition map? Yes we all know ralliart cam with let more air in at high revs vs stock, but how does that affect the actual spark advance? So in theory your tune should be same regardless of cam profile (to a reasonable degree of course), its obvious that higher lift cam will pump out more power but thats due to more air being sucked into chamber at higher revs, hence more fuel so you get harder push......

Im just talking about timing, clearly AFR tuning will have to be adjusted to compensate for more air at higher revs....

Tuning 'outside' of the safe parameters set by the factory is where the gains are found. Remember that the 6g74 in the magna cannot advance or retard timing based on knock, so has a very lenient tune to allow it to run on any RON fuel in Australia without pinking.

With cams, the ability to advance the timing to accommodate extra lift in the cam lobes is how the engine responds and subsequently perform better and lay down better numbers. Of course, the type of cam determines how that power is delivered

With cams, the ability to advance the timing to accommodate extra lift in the cam lobes is how the engine responds and subsequently perform better and lay down better numbers. Of course, the type of cam determines how that power is delivered

What i want to know is why would you advance timing more on higher lift cam vs standard cam? My guess is that you wouldnt at all...... I know the science behind spark advance & that factory ecu can not advance timing on its own. What im saying is that ignition timing will remain the same (after its been advanced by the tuner) regardless of cam used, i.e if you decide to put higher lift cam in you dont need to retune your ignition timing if its already been done. You will only need to correct your AFRs

A higher lift cam might also have the open/close ramps in different points and the spark might be moved a bit closer to or further away from TDC depending how much air and fuel the cam has let in and when?

I agree lightweight wheels is money well spent and has an amplified effect, however from what I've read the comparison was more like a 1kg weight saving on the unsprung weight (that is wheels/tyres) would yield similar gains to a 2kg saving from the vehicle itself?
I've always heard that 1kg of unsprung is roughly the same as 10kg of sprung weight.
Not too sure, but it sounds about right to me.

Either way, we know reducing unsprung weight is one of the best possible upgrades. That's why Ceramic rotors exist and lightweight wheels are produced for the expense that they are. If i had more money, i'd track down some TE37 or similar used off an Evo and grab them.


Also, Hayden, get back to us/me with the results of your tune if you go for it. It's likely that i'll do mine soon too.
Only reservation i have is to get any sort of noticeable difference, i'll have to go for a 98RON tune. I'm fine with the added expense of fuel (usually fill up with a BP card - 98RON for the price of E10 guys, you should con your work to get one), but i can't always get 98 and don't really trust most of those small bottle of octane booster.

I would love lightweight rims but dunno if any of them will suit my car!

I would love te-37s in 19x8.5 omg .... ..... sorry i almost came. But seriously te-37s delivered with good rubber i'm looking at $4500

What i want to know is why would you advance timing more on higher lift cam vs standard cam? My guess is that you wouldnt at all...... I know the science behind spark advance & that factory ecu can not advance timing on its own. What im saying is that ignition timing will remain the same (after its been advanced by the tuner) regardless of cam used, i.e if you decide to put higher lift cam in you dont need to retune your ignition timing if its already been done. You will only need to correct your AFRs

Here's a theory - the "bigger" cams will let the engine breath in more fuel and more fuel takes longer to burn, so you can advance the timing some.

I would love lightweight rims but dunno if any of them will suit my car!

I would love te-37s in 19x8.5 omg .... ..... sorry i almost came. But seriously te-37s delivered with good rubber i'm looking at $4500
That's why it's not worth it.

Like i said, if you could find someone with an Evo who wanted to offload some lightweight wheels, you should snap them up.
Only 17-20x8, though. You'll be assraped by cops if they find out you're running illegal wheels with your P-Plates on.

Best bet would be to try and find some Enkei you like - they're generally less expensive than you would think. I could have had some Gold RPF1 for under $1500 for the set, but decided against it because they were 19s (IIRC) and getting load rated 19s means you either spend $1k each tyre or get crap ones.

hmm i really want 19s.
I just found a canadian based company 'Sorat Wheels" who have a replica te-37 in the perfect size for my car but they are 120x5 so i'll see if they can get them in 5x114.3 otherwise meh.

hmm i really want 19s.
I just found a canadian based company 'Sorat Wheels" who have a replica te-37 in the perfect size for my car but they are 120x5 so i'll see if they can get them in 5x114.3 otherwise meh.

Do you like the Advanti Nova? Very similar style. I just got a set of 20x8.5" while I'm waiting for my new Enkei's from Japan & then will be selling them at the right price if you're interested?

Very similar to my 20s..

When you're ready to sell em lemme know Rob..

SuFz

Can anyone comment on how tune will be affected by getting different cam? Im just curious, i.e why would ignition map be any different between two cams? Surely cam lift/duration has nothing to do with ignition map? Yes we all know ralliart cam with let more air in at high revs vs stock, but how does that affect the actual spark advance? So in theory your tune should be same regardless of cam profile (to a reasonable degree of course), its obvious that higher lift cam will pump out more power but thats due to more air being sucked into chamber at higher revs, hence more fuel so you get harder push......

Im just talking about timing, clearly AFR tuning will have to be adjusted to compensate for more air at higher revs....

The dynamics of the combustion chamber will change dramatically. As stated with excess fuel available (to make more power) the flame requires more time to propagte efficiently ie increase ignition timing.

Again air delivery won't match to standard cams so the spark advnce will likely vary further.

The dynamics of the combustion chamber will change dramatically. As stated with excess fuel available (to make more power) the flame requires more time to propagte efficiently ie increase ignition timing.

Again air delivery won't match to standard cams so the spark advnce will likely vary further.

Thank you