View Full Version : Leaking output shaft seal [97 TF]
Burnside
03-06-2011, 04:45 PM
My 97' TF has been fussy with the transmission lately. I've noticed it is loosing transmission fluid pretty quickly now as well. On further inspection, it appears my output shaft seal is leaking bad.
Can anyone spread some light on replacement and costs? Something tells me this is not a quick fix? :)
(Sorry about pics, I could not see phones screen.)
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/6306/vlcsnap2011060316h31m23.png
(Running down and dripping)
http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/7056/vlcsnap2011060316h33m23.png
(Output shaft with transmission fluid running out.)
Cheers
presti
03-06-2011, 05:20 PM
shoot Mal (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/member.php?u=18) a private message and let him know whats going on, he will be able to give you a rough quote on it, but he is melbourne so he couldn't help fix or replace unless you brought her down for the national meet
... Going to ignore the above comment.
Cost for the seal is around $20 iirc - Remove the CV joint and flathead screwdriver with a rag on the end to pry the seal out, simply press the new one in then reinstall driveshaft.
Madmagna
03-06-2011, 07:02 PM
Thanks Presti, seems someone does not think that your recommendation was helpful but hey, at lest it got my attention and then allowed me to go to this thread to assist lol
The drive shaft seal is reasonably easy to replace, you will need to be able to remove the drive shaft to do this so if you are not able to do this will need to be done at a workshop. Once out, CAREFULLY lever the old seal out with a screwdriver, get the new seal (avail at Repco, Burson, Mitsubishi etc etc) and push in. AFTER it is seated coat the friction surface with a small amount of trans fluid and then reinstall the shaft.
Warm up the engine, top up about 500ml of fluid, take for a drive to warm up trans and then check fluid again with engine running and in N or P
This about covers the job, is not too hard to do and will be fine if done properly, main thing to remember is keep the area clean and make sure the seal is straight. Take note of the depth the seal is in to start with so you know how far to push back in when you put the new one in
presti
03-06-2011, 07:07 PM
Thanks Presti, seems someone does not think that your recommendation was helpful but hey, at lest it got my attention and then allowed me to go to this thread to assist lol
haha thats cool, i like dobbing you in to people when they have problems i hope you don't mind haha!
good luck Burnside with your trans issue :) ps go manual's ;) haha
Burnside
03-06-2011, 10:07 PM
haha thats cool, i like dobbing you in to people when they have problems i hope you don't mind haha!
good luck Burnside with your trans issue :) ps go manual's ;) haha
If I could find someone to do it for me for the right price I would switch :D.
Also, i did not intend to not appreciate your post if that's how it was interpreted :P I wish to thank all for input and to Mad for the great explanation. Thanks for the help! Exactly what I was looking for!
Madmagna
04-06-2011, 06:35 AM
This was not directed at you or presti mate, was response to a rather silly comment made after Presti lol
If you are going to try yoirself feel free to give me a quick call sometime and can run you through it
Burnside
07-06-2011, 12:36 PM
Big thanks Madmagna :). I will try and get the parts and get back to you! Much appreciated!
Burnside
08-06-2011, 03:35 PM
Okay, a little update.
I tried, but failed to find a part to replace the output shaft seal. Looks like I need some tool to press it back into the trans also. Funny enough, I noticed grease around my left inner CV boot - but no noticeable damage to the boot.
I took my TF to the guys next door to my work (CV joint shop :p) and they say Midas has put the wrong boot on and it is rubbing on the things around it and has split. New Right CV for me and a new boot on Left and Trans seal.
<Begin Rant>
Thanks Midas for a quality $500 service (about 3 months ago). I noticed they charged me for 4 things they did not do!!
Wiper blades change(Not changed)
Replaced front globes - And 1 does not work when I got it back(Strange, they worked when I went in there as I checked the night before.....),
Screwdriver in Engine bay(I don't remember asking for that),
numberplate light case is not even screwed in properly! It is cross-threaded and the screw goes into my paintwork! Its on a 45 degree angle - not water tight >_>
my SRS light was on again..
Said I needed to replace exhaust from headers onwards. (Flex pipe ahs a small leak, nothing serious or even noticeable. (I said I could smell exhaust in car so it was leaking near engine).
Said my Power steering pump was rooted (Looks like it was oil from the trans making the belt slip - has not played up since).
called Midas, guy was a dick and said there was nothing he could do. I asked him to fix the problems and he said he would change what was billed for previously (Wiper blades) and anything else will be charged accordingly(Globes etc).
I honestly believe they broke more than they fixed. I really will never go to Midas Myaree again..(Midas Canning Vale always were good).
<End Rant>
Now forgot what I was going to say.... :p
Essentially what I am trying to say is I need a decent mechanic in Perth not too far from Myaree.. I may also need them to convert to manual if my trans starts playing up more. Mad, do you have any recomendations? I am honestly fed up with bodgy servicing and mechanical work I pay out the nose for. I really do appreciate your comments Mad, I trust your Judgement. Thanks heaps for being such a great bloke :). I'll buy you a beer.:beer:
Madmagna
08-06-2011, 08:08 PM
Okies
Greese aroudn the inner boot, if the original boot is not that much to be concerned about, is common especially on the RHS side boot, if these clowns have replaced the boot then that is something else to be worried about add to this, a trans seal does not just start leaking that much in a second, there would have been signes there prior
Secondly, most of the way the seal will simply push in by hand, they are not in there that tight, you can use a flat punch to carefully push the last part in provided you use the punch around the edge of the seal, a bit of pipe or a large socket is the best thing though
Screwdriver, I would just be happy I got a free screwdriver lol, I have done this before, not a screw driver but a spanner here and there, when you work on as many cars as most od, it is inevidable that you will forget one tool now and again lol
The rest, I would just move on and not take the car back there, I am sure that there must be a WA member who has a good shop they go to???? anyone?
Burnside
14-06-2011, 02:58 PM
Madmagna, you never fail to impress :). I will be shooting you a PM that I specifically want your advice on. :p
+Rep
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