I have a KR thats got a almost dead battery, started it up with a jump starter pack and checked the voltage, it was only 8 volts, so no charge coming the alternator at all, can they just die all of a sudden or could there be another reason theres no charge coming from the alternator?
cheers

hi

put the red wire from the multimeter on the alternator b+ connector the main wire bolts to and see what voltage is when the engines running, after that put the red wire on the + post on the battery and see what voltage is. if theres more voltage at the alternator b+ bolt than the + post on the battery then the main wire has probably burnt out or the main ffusible link mayve blown.

if its the same voltage from the alternator b+ as well as the + on the battery then its probably something with the alternator

same thing happened im my tp a few years back. i just rebuilt one and through in but if you dont have parts obviously thats not easy.

as suggested test to see if there is continuity between the battery and alternator first.

next check if the idiot light (battery symbol on the dash lights) comes on when you turn the key on. if it doesn't light that could be your problem as on some systems the light is crucial to the reg working properly. if it does go on and stays on then all connections between the regulator ect are probably good. but otherwise the brushes on the regulator could be worn and / or dirty slip rings in the alternator. if your handy with the soldering iron the brushes are worth $3 and piss easy to replace but we will get to that. otherwise a new regulator is about $45 from memory.

the alternators rarely fail internally besides the regulator but at this age its possible. diodes can also open circuit as can the internal windings. if your confident enough to pull it apart ill give you a link to a you tube video i had on diagnosing faults in these very alternators.

so anyway first get back to us on the idiot light and continuity test and we can take it from there. also check all the fusible links and fuses as the supply to the exciter circuit could come from one.

regards jay

same thing happened im my tp a few years back. i just rebuilt one and through in but if you dont have parts obviously thats not easy.

as suggested test to see if there is continuity between the battery and alternator first.

next check if the idiot light (battery symbol on the dash lights) comes on when you turn the key on. if it doesn't light that could be your problem as on some systems the light is crucial to the reg working properly. if it does go on and stays on then all connections between the regulator ect are probably good. but otherwise the brushes on the regulator could be worn and / or dirty slip rings in the alternator. if your handy with the soldering iron the brushes are worth $3 and piss easy to replace but we will get to that. otherwise a new regulator is about $45 from memory.

the alternators rarely fail internally besides the regulator but at this age its possible. diodes can also open circuit as can the internal windings. if your confident enough to pull it apart ill give you a link to a you tube video i had on diagnosing faults in these very alternators.

so anyway first get back to us on the idiot light and continuity test and we can take it from there. also check all the fusible links and fuses as the supply to the exciter circuit could come from one.

regards jay

Hi Jay, thanks for your reply, I haven't checked the charge from the alternator by connecting the multimeter directly to the alternator yet, but in regards to the battery light it does come on when you turn the key to the on position but goes out when the car starts, which I thought it would stay on as theres no charge coming from the alternator