Hey guys my car has started to play up again, this time it will keep cranking but wont fire.

Now at a quick test i dont have a spark, but i dont know where i go from here.

In my old car i could just check the condition of the ignition coil since it was a stand alone unit, is the ignition coil built into the dizzy on a TE Magna?

What should be the next thing i look at? If i have to deal with the dizzy i would probably just get a mobile mech out to do it, but if its something simple then i can do it myself.

I would be cleaning the dizzy first, then checking leads, starter motor checks aswell

crank angles sensor or immob, if not dizzy (coil pack)

Ok well i was going to organize a tow yesterday but the car fired up, and ran fine all day. :/

Now im even more puzzled.

That seems to point towards the immobiliser as bellto suggests - do you have a second key?....

I do indeed, i also have aftermarket Steel Mate alarm.

I wonder if the Steel Mate alarm cuts the injector pulse?

I wonder if the Steel Mate alarm cuts the injector pulse?

But that wouldn't cut the spark would it?

But that wouldn't cut the spark would it?

Sorry, that was meant to read 'cut the spark' not injector pulse. But I guess the question is still the same - if the alarm is wired so it cuts the spark and the alarm is off, then maybe the alarm is faulty. I Googled Steelmate and it seems there are different methods of installing them so it really may depend on who installed the alarm as to whether it does cut the spark.

Ok well i just had a RAA guy come out to look at it and luckily it didnt start when he was here so he tested for spark, and no spark i will try changing keys to see if that helps.

whenyou turn the car to "on" (not running) does the engine light come on, then stay off? or does it come back on again before or during the cranking?

also, have you washed your engine or gone through water latley?

whenyou turn the car to "on" (not running) does the engine light come on, then stay off? or does it come back on again before or during the cranking?

also, have you washed your engine or gone through water latley?

The engine light does come on, and stays on.

Tried a spare ,ECU if you can grab one from u pull it?

im having the same problem with my old tf wagon at the moment. i had changed plugs,leads, fuel filter, air filter, fuel reg, injectors. and today i think we had traced it to the ignition module inside the dizzy.

im having the same problem with my old tf wagon at the moment. i had changed plugs,leads, fuel filter, air filter, fuel reg, injectors. and today i think we had traced it to the ignition module inside the dizzy.

My thoughts are the ignition module aswell.

im going to replace mine tomorrow and and should work...............wel fingers crossed anyway

im going to replace mine tomorrow and and should work...............wel fingers crossed anyway

How do you plan to replace yours? I ask because my manual is useless with that one. Wouldnt it just be easier to replace the dizzy?

Because im thinking if i can get a decent dizzy from U Pull it to fit.

pretty sure you will find its either the immob or cas. have a search on the forums and it tells you how to check for faults, and how to get the ecu to tell you what fault it is throwing. it does this by grounding on of the pins out of the connector under the dash. . then the cel light flashes certain patterents for certain things.

instructions are on this page (http://www.wermspowke.net/wiki/index.php/Engine) mate, under the title "how can i read codes without mut 11."
its got ignition coil, cas and immob there for you to check all three.

Ok thanks matey.

Also how do you set the TDC prior to pulling out the dizzy?

if your need to set it to tdc, there is a mark on the harmonic balancer (looks like a chip has been taken out), and a scale on the lower timing belt cover, look down from the top of the engine with a torch and you will see it. take a 1/2 racket drive and turn the harmonic balancer clockwise until its at tdc.

That code reading guide was bloody helpful, first i thought i red 44 which would be the ignition coil, but after looking at it 3 times over it turns out it was 54 meaning its my immobilizer.

Do the stock magnas come with one already equipped? How do you fix an immobilizer?

In the TE and F you need to get an immob from another car and then have all your keys programmed to that immob with a MUTTII

In the TE and F you need to get an immob from another car and then have all your keys programmed to that immob with a MUTTII

Does it have to be one from a TE or TF?

So my current would would be no good to reprogram? I spose i can get one from U Pull It.

you need to get it from a te tf because the elctronics work differently, ie, they dont run a bem, unlike ke/f and "x"h onwards which do. get the immob out and replace it, then get the car towed to mitsu. and have your keys reprogrammed to the new immob. ptherwise you have to replace all the locks and key barrel as well as the immob.

yep replaced the dizzy and shes all good :) worth a shot man

Ok decided to get my car to an auto elec, and after a quick look they believe that it is the immobilser even though they couldnt pull a code.

So the quote was $520 for a brand new unit and it would be a 3 week wait from Japan.

So naturally i told them to source me a 2nd hand one and they said that would cost $390 including taking it to Mitsubishi to have the program it. So i let them do that, but then i get a call from them and Mitsubishi had told them if they were to program one they would need to replace the ECU and Key Barrel so then that came to $700.

I told them i would not do that, and now the auto elec has said to leave it with him, and he will get some wiring diagrams and see if he can bypass it which will still be around the $400 mark.

Can someone shed some light on whether Mitsubishi is feeding my Auto Elec the right info? Because it seems like BS to me.

Jeez thats harsh! Surely it would be alot easier and cheaper to bypass it all together!

Jeez thats harsh! Surely it would be alot easier and cheaper to bypass it all together!

I was under the impression that they couldnt be bypassed easily, but if they can it still comes with a price tag of $400

dont need to replace the ecu and key barrel. you may as well go to the wrecker, get a second hand immob out of a car that has keys and replace all the locks and just use the new key and barrel.

Key barrel and immoibsler are all link together, so that why it cost so much to do. He might be able to bypass the orignal one. But just see if you can find a wreck with key barrel and immobisler and door lock. If there is no key for the wreck grab the vin ask for a key cut for it at a dealership :)