well, seeing i fried the computer, i've decided to make the swap to manual (and hopefully LSD). but the question is, should i get a factory mitsu manual computer loom etc etc, and add the GReddy Emanage, or go complete aftermarket? i'm planning on getting a few performance mods while it's off the road aswell, eg, extractors, throttle body, FPR, possibly cams, and god knows what else....

would an aftermarket computer work im my car? i know they have a lot of options, but still with all the electrics in the Altera LS, (ABS, Airbags, cruise control) would everything still be functional? i'd like to have the the performance but still have everything functional...

i'll be budgeting about 4-6 grand, and most of the stuff will be free labour (gotta love knowing mechanics) unless some cheap turbo conversions pop up in the meantime i might be swayed to save even more...

so i'm pretty much open to ideas at the moment, i'm hopefully looking at getting around the 140-150kW atw mark N/A, possibly higher if i decide to save some more ;) but any ideas anyone has would be greatly appreciated... i can't wait to get it back on the road!


ohyeah... thought i better add, i already have the K&N pod and custom rear exhaust, and the suspension is pretty much sorted, so all the mods will b on the engine ;)

I'd still be inclined to allow mroe than 6k for all that. It will be an interesting evolution but are you sure you want to do that? Could you try sourcing an ECU through wreckers and get Mitsu to code the keys etc?

g'day, go the full aftermarket ecu and a bit of port n' polish? cams? can the magna's be supercharged?? thats my ideas.

cheers kyle (mr_magna)
p.s ur car looks wiked

go the full aftermarket ecu


all the electrics in the Altera LS, (ABS, Airbags, cruise control) would everything still be functional?

Booya votes no.


booya explains by saying; airbags and ABS are controlled via the single ECU the magna has. so unless you go option a and get a new mitsu ECU + piggy back, you will loose a lot of electronic features from your ECU.

you will also need to rewire your aircon unit as your ECU control's this too.

i only know thru experience

ok, well looks like the factory + Greddy will be the go then, (pity, coz it'll prolly turn out to be more expensive!) so i'll have to plan the mods around what that can control. (pity, that 6-Pack throttle body setup looks sweet!

any news on the twin throttle body setups RPW were designing? i'm thinking about getting the RPW Race headers with one of the setups, anything else that i'd need to get full function from these?

ive still got my twin throttle setup sitting here,

its proven to work

and we're testing it on a stock magna in the comming weeks so we can see exactly how much you can expect from one.

good work ben! looking forward to the results

well it looks like i can get HPC coated RPW Race headers, 65mm T/B, FPR and GReddy E-Manage for about $2300... (i guess about $1800 with Pacemaker headers, anyone know how much difference there is)

any idea how much power these mods will give? and any other ideas that i could do after seeing this will not cover the entire budget i have planned?

++++
Greetings All.

I think the FPR is a waste if you have a piggyback. The reason for this is that a FPR just pumps more fuel for the stock MAP settings, hence eliminating flat spots and running alot ricker in others. Where as a piggyback just eliminates the flat spots and doesnt over kill by pumping more fuel over the whole RPM range. So, in saying that, I think you should drop it, and go for either a full CAI (if ya dont already have one) or if enough $$$ a stage one cam. :D

Just My 2c,
--Tonba
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good point tonba, i guess it just depends on how much fuel the factory FPR can flow, and weather its enough! i never really thought about that! hmmmm stage 1 cams would b nice, but i think they might be a bit out of my budget...

I think the FPR is a waste if you have a piggyback. The reason for this is that a FPR just pumps more fuel for the stock MAP settings, hence eliminating flat spots and running alot ricker in others. Where as a piggyback just eliminates the flat spots and doesnt over kill by pumping more fuel over the whole RPM range.
The rising rate FPR isn't there to pump more fuel and make it rich. Under hard acceleration the constant rate FPR doesn't always feed at the desired pressure which causes leaning out of the A/F ratio and a slight loss in power. The rising rate increases pressure to overcome this.

Not every car experiences this and it shouldn't be used as an outright solution by itself. It all depends on how a car reacts to breathing mods.

yeah, like i said at the moment its all still in the planning stages at the moment until i finally get the money to do it all... there will be plenty of discussion with members on the forums and the mechanics and anyone else who is willing to help before i finalise everything

The rising rate FPR isn't there to pump more fuel and make it rich. Under hard acceleration the constant rate FPR doesn't always feed at the desired pressure which causes leaning out of the A/F ratio and a slight loss in power. The rising rate increases pressure to overcome this.

Not every car experiences this and it shouldn't be used as an outright solution by itself. It all depends on how a car reacts to breathing mods.

i think thats what tonba meant, it 'pumps' more fuel when you accelerate.

ok cool... i'll have to see what happens once the funds have come in...

any ideas on what sort of power those mods would give me?

Not Enough!!, hehe

I hate pacemakers, to the bin they go

Not Enough!!, hehe

I hate pacemakers, to the bin they go
Huh? Why?